Jam Session

Apples

Apples are used in jams and jellies because of their high pectin content, but on their own, they produce rather bland preserves. Apple butter is comforting but hardly a groundbreaking topping for toast. Apple jelly is mild and needs a flavor accent, such as mint or rosemary, to make it interesting. In my opinion, the best use for apples in preserving is to make pectin-rich apple jelly to help set all of your other preserves.

I prefer to use tart green apples such as Newton Pippin or Granny Smith for pectin and jelly and a mixture of apples for butter. Avoid pretty but bland mass-market apples, such as Red Delicious, as they will disappoint. You want apples with some acidity and spice. Try Gravenstein, Pink Pearl, Sierra Beauty, Macintosh, Arkansas Black, Winesap, or Fuji apples for a more complex flavor profile.

Once friends discover your passion for preserving, they will make requests. That is how I came to make apple butter. Fruit butters are quintessentially American. They are symbolic of the loving-hands-at-home culinary tradition and a reminder of America’s agrarian past. Those who love fruit butters really love them, especially as a comforting spread for toast and pancakes and even pork chops.

Using a food mill will get rid of peels and any tough pieces, so save time and skip the peeling. If you prefer to puree in the food processor, peel the fruit.

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon or a mixture of other apple pie spices, such as ground ginger, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg

Peel, core, and dice or slice the apples. If using the quince, peel, core, and dice.

In a large preserving pot over medium-high heat, combine the apples or the apples and quince, apple cider, and lemon zest and juice and cover. If the cider does not cover the fruit, add more cider (or water) to cover. Check on the pot occasionally to note the liquid level, as the apples can scorch. When the apples are soft, set the pot aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, pass the fruit through food mill or puree in the bowl of a food processor.

Measure the puree. For every 2 cups of puree, measure out 1 cup of sugar. Because the fruit butter does not have to reach gel point and must simply mound on a spoon, it does not require much sugar and can be tart rather than very sweet. Return the fruit puree to the pot.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Return the fruit puree to medium heat and add the, sugar and cinnamon. Gently cook, stirring frequently, until it thickens, approximately 1 hour. It may spit and pop a bit, so if you have a splatter screen, you may want to use it. Wear long pot-holder gloves, too. Alternatively, after 15 minutes of stove-top cooking, you may transfer the mixture to a shallow baking pan and finish the butter in a 300°F oven, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes, until the mixture is thick. If you use quince, the mixture will be red.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Do the plate test (see this page); the apple butter should mound and hold its shape. If it isn’t ready, continue to cook and stir until it passes the plate test. Remove the pot from the heat.

Ladle the apple butter into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed apple butter for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— For apple-ginger butter, peel and slice 5 to 6 ounces fresh ginger and cook it in the cider with the apples. Puree with the apples.

— For apple butter with a kick, stir in a few tablespoons of Calvados with the cinnamon.

The classic use of apple pectin is to enrich and thicken fruit preserves when the fruit needs a boost to set. To do so, use 1 cup per 1 quart batch of jam. You can freeze apple juices or “pectin stock” to add to low-pectin fruit jams and preserves, but you have to either refrigerate it for a day or two or freeze it, which is impractical because, if you need it while you are in the middle of cooking a fruit jam, you have to stop and thaw it in the microwave.

For long-term storage and immediate access, you need to cook the apple juices (pectin stock) with sugar and lemon until it gels, and preserve it in jars. Simply put, Homemade Apple Pectin is really an unflavored apple jelly—there’s no need to flavor it if you are just going to use it to thicken other preserves.

This recipe may be increased by half to make 6 half-pint jars at a time. For the larger batch (6 cups) of Apple Pectin Stock, use 5½ to 6 pounds tart apples and 8 to 9 cups water, or more as needed, and stir in 5 cups sugar and 3 tablespoons lemon juice.

Note that you can make quince pectin stock and quince pectin jelly in the same way.

Stem and coarsely chop the apples but do not peel or core them. You will have about 16 cups.

In a large preserving pot over medium-high heat, combine the apples and water to cover and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat and simmer until the apples are totally soft. Check on them occasionally to note the liquid level in the pot, as apples can scorch. Add more water if needed. Mash the apples a bit with a potato masher.

When the apples are very soft, turn them into a dampened cheesecloth–lined colander set over a bowl or chinois set over a container and press gently on the fruit. Do not press too hard or the jelly will be cloudy. (Either discard the smooshed cooked fruit or puree it in a food mill and turn it into a rustic applesauce that you can sweeten to taste.) Now pour the apple juice remaining in the pot through the dampened cheesecloth–lined colander or chinois, and set aside to drip into the same bowl for a few hours, or longer if you have the patience, though most of the yield will be collected in the first few hours. For 4 pounds of apples, you will get about 4 cups reduced juice or apple pectin stock.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set a stockpot on the stove and fill it with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Pour the strained juices (aka apple pectin stock) into the preserving pot, stir in the lemon juice and sugar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil until the mixture thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), firmly gelling, or it registers 220°F on a candy thermometer. This happens quickly, so start checking the set point 5 to 7 minutes after the mixture boils. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the apple pectin into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pot. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed apple pectin for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— For Apple Jelly: Flavorings are added to apple jelly to make it more interesting. Make the jelly as if making apple pectin. For every 4 cups of Apple Pectin Stock, use 3 cups of sugar. To make 4 half-pint jars, sterilize the jars as directed. Measure 4 cups of the stock into the preserving pot, leaving any sediment. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice. Add the flavorings (see options, below). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skim frequently, and boil until the mixture thickens and registers 220°F on a candy thermometer. The mixture is ready when it passes the plate test (see this page) and firmly gels on the plate. Rewarm the jars, fill, and process as directed for the Homemade Apple Pectin.

This is a workhorse winter chutney. It’s good with baked ham, pork chops, or roast chicken. And it adds a little zip to the Thanksgiving turkey. Omit the red peppers if you like and increase the onions by 1 cup, or substitute cranberries for the peppers and cut back a bit on the raisins.

Combine the onions, garlic, ginger, and a splash of the vinegar in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to puree.

In a large preserving pot, combine 3 cups vinegar, the apples, bell peppers, brown sugar, mustard seeds, allspice, cayenne, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, decrease the heat to medium, and cook until it thickens, then add the raisins, stirring frequently (to prevent the raisins from sinking and scorching), during the last 15 minutes of cooking. If the raisins have absorbed too much of the juices add water or apple juice so that the mixture is syrupy. Do the plate test (see this page). Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the chutney into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed chutney for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.