Transport
Getting There
By Air
Bangkok is not only a key gateway between Asia and the West, but also a major transportation hub for the rest of Southeast Asia.
Suvarnabhumi Airport
Bangkok International Airport, Suvarnabhumi (pronounced “su-wa-na-poom”) Airport (www.airportthai.co.th) is located about 30km (19 miles) east of Bangkok in Samut Prakan province. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the airport from the city by taxi, depending on traffic conditions. The airport handles all international flights to Bangkok as well as many domestic connections.
Suvarnabhumi has one main passenger terminal with seven concourses, easily capable of handling 76 flights per hour, according to the Airport Authority of Thailand (AOT). The airport has its fair share of complaints, usually sparse toilet facilities, a congested arrival hall and long walks between gates. But the experience is pretty hassle-free, the main bugbear being rogue taxis (see below).
The airport has a good range of facilities, including foreign exchange outlets, ATMs, a Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) office, medical centre, Internet facilities and a wide array of shops and restaurants.
For more details check the airport website or call any of the following:
Airport Call Centre
Tel: 0-2132 1888
Arrivals
Tel: 0-2132 9328–9
Departures
Tel: 0-2132 9324–7
In line with the practice of major airports the world over, the airport tax for international flights out of Suvarnabhumi is now incorporated into the price of your air ticket.
Don Muang Airport
Don Muang Airport (tel: 0-2535 1111; www.airportthai.co.th) services a growing number of budget carriers, both domestic and international. The airport has undergone a recent refurbishment and is now regarded as Bangkok’s second airport (after Survarnabhumi). Air Asia is the major stakeholder, but other airlines include Nok Air, Lion Air and Thai Smile. There are two terminals, one serving domestic arrivals and departures, the other international.
Don Muang is about 30km (19 miles) north of the city centre. It takes about 40–45 minutes by taxi, depending on traffic, to get to or from the airport.
Note: if making a flight connection between Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang airports, be sure to allow for sufficient time as taxi travel time between the two airports could take up to 1.5 hours. There is a bus operating between both airports (No. 555), which takes only fractionally longer than a taxi.
Flying from UK and US
Even if you don’t plan to spend any time in Thailand, Bangkok is the most convenient (and sometimes the only) way to transfer to neighbouring countries like Laos, Cambodia and Burma. Low-cost airlines mean that domestic and regional flights to nearby destinations like Malaysia and Singapore and even destinations in southern China have become incredibly cheap – if booked in advance.
Passengers from UK and Europe can fly direct to Bangkok in about 12 hours, though it is considerably cheaper to take an airline that makes a stopover in Europe, the Middle East or Asia. Airlines that fly non-stop include British Airways, Qantas, Thai and EVA Airways. Many travellers to Australia and New Zealand choose Bangkok as a transit point on their journey.
Travel time from the US is considerably longer. Flying from the West Coast usually takes around 18 hours (not including transit time) and often involves a connection in North Asia – Japan, Korea or Taiwan; the East Coast route via Europe takes about 19 hours in the air.
By Rail
The State Railway of Thailand (tel: 0-2222 0175, hotline: 1690; www.railway.co.th) operates trains that are generally clean, cheap and reliable, if a little slow. There are three entry points by rail into Thailand. Two are from Malaysia, the most popular of which is the daily train that leaves Butterworth near Penang at 1.15pm for Hat Yai (south Thailand) and arrives in Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station at 10.50am the next morning. Trains leave Hualamphong daily at 2.45pm for Malaysia. In 2009, a short line opened from Nong Khai in northeastern Thailand to Thanaleng, in Laos. It will eventually run to Vientiane.
If you like to travel in style and prefer not to fly, then plump for the Eastern and Oriental Express (www.belmond.com/eastern-and-oriental-express). Travelling several times a month between Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok, the 22-carriage train is a very expensive but very elegant way to travel.
By Road
Malaysia provides the main road access into Thailand, with crossings near Betong and Sungai Kolok. From Laos, it is possible to cross from Vientiane into Nong Khai in northeast Thailand by using the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong River. From Cambodia, the most commonly used border crossing is from Poipet, which connects to Aranyaprathet, east of Bangkok. One other option is overland from Kompong Cham in Cambodia, crossing over to Hat Lek in Thailand.
Getting Around
From the Airport
The journey from Suvarnabhumi Airport to the city centre takes about 45 minutes, depending on traffic conditions (the worst period is between 4 and 9pm). Negotiating an exit from the Arrival Hall, however, can be more daunting. If you are on a business trip, you’ll understand why it is the norm for Bangkok hosts to deploy a personal greeter and escort. Emerging in the Arrival Hall, you may be harangued by taxi (and hotel) touts both inside and outside the barriers. Never volunteer your name or destination to these people. If you already have a reservation at a hotel, a representative will have your name written on a sign, or at least a sign bearing the name of your hotel. If you haven’t made prior arrangements, use one of the following modes to get to the city.
By Taxi
Operating 24 hours daily, all taxis officially serving the airport are air-conditioned and metered. When you exit the Arrival Hall, there is an official taxi booth outside on the fourth-floor concourse. Join the queue and tell the person at the desk where you want to go. A receipt will be issued, with the licence plate number of the taxi and your destination in Thai written on it. Make sure the driver turns on the meter. At the end of your trip, you need to pay what is on the meter plus a B50 airport surcharge. If the driver uses the expressway to speed up the journey, he will ask for your approval first. If you agree, you will have to pay the toll fees, which will be around B70 in total. Depending on traffic, an average fare from the airport to the city centre is around B300 (excluding toll fees and airport surcharge).
By Limousine
There are two limousine operators stationed at the Arrival Hall. Airports of Thailand Limousines (tel: 0-2134 2323-6) operates a variety of standard vehicles that can take you to the city centre for B950–B1,100. Luxury cars include Mercedes E Class at B1,600 and 7-series BMW at B2,200. Rates to Pattaya start at around B2,600, depending on the vehicle used. Thai Airways Limousines (mobile tel: 081-652 4444; www.thaiairways.com) also operates a premium car service. Prices are similar to that charged by AOT.
By Airport Bus
The Airport Bus passes the main hotels in downtown Bangkok. You must first get on the free airport shuttle to the Public Transportation Centre, which is separate from the main terminal building. Buses depart every 15 minutes from 5.30am to 12.30am, and the cost is B150 per person.
Airport Bus Routes:
AE-1 – to Silom via Pratunam, Thanon Phetchaburi, Thanon Ratchadamri, Thanon Silom and Thanon Surawong.
AE-2 – to Banglamphu via Thanon Phetchaburi, Thanon Lan Luang and Thanon Khao San.
AE-3 – to Sukhumvit (Nana) via Bangna, Thanon Phrakhanong, Ekkamai, Asok, Thanon Ratchadamri, Thanon Phetchaburi and Thanon Sukhumvit.
AE-4 – to Hualamphong Railway Station via Victory Monument, Thanon Ploenchit, Thanon Rama, Thanon Phaya Thai and Thanon Rama IV.
By Rail
The 28km (17-mile) Suvarnabhumi Airport Rail Link (SARL) connects the airport to the city. The high-speed system has two services. The 24-hour City Line to Phaya Thai calls at eight stations en route – Lat Krabang, Ban Thap Chang, Hua Mak, Ramkhamhaeng, Asoke, Makkasan, Ratchaprarop and Phaya Thai – and takes 30 minutes for the full journey. It links to the Skytrain system at Phaya Thai. The Express Line (6am–1am) runs direct to Bangkok City Air Terminal, at Makkasan (a 15-minute journey), where passengers can check in and drop their luggage. Makkasan will eventually link to Phetchaburi Metro station. Tickets: B15–40 (City Line), B150 (Express Line).
Street Name Confusion
Note that Wireless Road (a street full of embassies and hotels) is more commonly known by its Thai name, Thanon Withayu. Similarly, Sathorn Road, a main thoroughfare divided into north and south which runs between Lumphini Park and the river, is often referred to as Sathorn Nua (north) and Sathorn Tai (south). With no standard translated English spellings for the Thai language, it is common to find a street or area spelt with several variants and broken or joined syllables. Even more confusing, some streets have as many as four names, based on old and new official names and landmarks. Skytrain station names often differ from the street sign spelling, so Chidlom district becomes Chit Lom station, Thanon Asoke becomes Asok station, and Soi Thonglor becomes Thong Lo.
Orientation
Bangkok is a flat, low-lying city that sprawls over 1,565 sq km (602 sq miles) in the heart of Thailand’s fertile Central Plains delta. It sits almost in the middle of the country’s north–south length, at the mouth of Thailand’s longest river, the Chao Phraya, which separates Thonburi to its west from Bangkok to its east.
The modern city has no definitive centre, with major business and shopping areas now occupying Pathumwan, Silom and Sukhumvit. Rattanakosin, the Old City and Chinatown hold most of the city’s historic architecture. Dusit mixes the palatial grandeur of European-influenced royal buildings with tiny lanes of the homes of immigrant Vietnamese and Cambodian refugees. Across the river, Thonburi, despite its urban sprawl, offers trips through countryside canals.
Walking is hot work, but the colourful streets give an insightful peek into everyday life as you pick your way through hawker stalls. Ease your progress with water or chopped fresh fruit, served in a bag with a cocktail stick, so it makes it easy to eat on the move.
Public Transport
Skytrain (BTS)
BTS Tourist Information Centre: tel: 0-2617 7340; hotline: tel: 0-2617 6000; www.bts.co.th.
The Bangkok Transit System’s (BTS) elevated train service, better known as Skytrain, is the perfect way of beating the city’s traffic-congested streets. It consists of two lines. The Sukhumvit Line runs from Mo Chit station in the north to Bearing station in the southeast. The Silom Line runs from National Stadium, near Siam Square, south to Bang Wa station, across the river in Thonburi. The lines intersect at Siam station.
The Skytrain is fast, frequent and clean, but suffers from overcrowding during peak hours. Accessibility is a problem for the disabled and aged as there aren’t enough escalators or lifts, compounded by the surrounding streets often being unsuitable for wheelchairs or mobility impaired customers to get to the stations.
Trains operate from 6am to midnight (3 minutes peak; 5 minutes off-peak). Single-trip fares vary according to distance, starting at B15 and rising to B40. Self-service ticket machines are found at all station concourses. Tourists may find it more useful to buy the unlimited ride 1-Day Pass (B120) or the 30-Day Adult Pass (which comes in three types: B440 for 20 rides, B600 for 30 and B800 for 40) – all available at station counters.
BTS Tourist Information Centres are found on the concourse levels of Siam, Nana and Saphan Taksin stations (daily 8am–8pm).
Metro (MRT or Subway)
Customer Relations Centre: tel: 0-2624 5200; www.bangkokmetro.co.th.
Bangkok’s metro line is operated by the Mass Rapid Transit Authority (MRT). The line has 18 stations, stretching 20km (12 miles) between Bang Sue in the northern suburbs of Bangkok and the city’s main railway station, Hualamphong, at the edge of Chinatown. Three of its stations – Silom, Sukhumvit and Chatuchak Park – are interchanges, where passengers can transfer to the BTS network, though you need to pay separately for each service.
Operating from 6am to midnight, the air-conditioned trains are frequent, with never more than a few minutes’ wait (2–4 minutes peak, 4–6 minutes off-peak). Fares start at B16, increasing by B2–3 every station, with a maximum fare of B42.
Unlike the BTS, coin-sized plastic tokens are used instead of cards, with self-service ticket machines at all stations. Also available at station counters are passes with unlimited rides: the 1-Day Pass (B120), 3-Day Pass (B230), 15-Day Pass (B600) and the stored-value Adult Card (B200, which includes a B50 deposit).
Taxis
Taxis are in Bangkok are metered, air-conditioned, inexpensive and comfortably seat 3–4 persons. It’s best to hail them on the streets, as those parked outside hotels often hustle for a no-meter fare. Metered taxis are recognisable by the sign on their roof, and they have an illuminated red light above the dashboard indicating whether it’s available for hire or not.
The flag-fall is B35 for the first kilometre, then B5–8.50 per kilometre, depending on distance travelled. If stuck in traffic, a small per-minute surcharge kicks in. If your journey crosses town, ask the driver to take the expressway. The network of elevated multi-lane roads can cut the journey time by more than half. The toll fare of B10–60 is given to the driver at the payment booth, not at the end of the trip.
Before starting, check that the meter has been reset and turned on. Generally, drivers are far better than their reputation in this regard, but will try it on occasionally. This happens particularly if there is heavy rain, when it is sometimes wise to negotiate, otherwise you may be stuck for some time but the meter will keep ticking. Fares, however, are negotiated for longer distances outside Bangkok: for instance, to Pattaya (B1,500), Koh Samet (B2,000) or Hua Hin (B1,800–2,300). Often, drivers don’t speak much English, but should know the locations of major hotels. It is a good idea to have a destination written in Thai.
The following taxi companies take bookings (there’s a B20 surcharge):
Siam Taxi, hotline: 1661
Nakhornthai Transportation, tel: 02-878 9000
Tuk-tuks are the brightly coloured three-wheeled taxis, whose name comes from the incessant noise their two-stroke engines make. Few tuk-tuk drivers speak English, so make sure your destination is written down in Thai. Negotiate the fare before you set off. Expect to pay B30–50 for short journeys of a few blocks or around 15 minutes or less, and B50–100 for longer journeys. A B100 ride should get you a half-hour ride across most parts of downtown. Be sure to negotiate the fare beforehand. Although they can be a fun experience, unless you bargain hard, tuk-tuk fares are rarely lower than metered taxi fares and you are surrounded by traffic fumes.
Motorcycle taxi stands are noticeable by their drivers – a gathering of men in fluorescent numbered vests found at the mouth of many sois, at busy intersections, buildings and markets. Hire only a driver who provides a passenger helmet, and negotiate fares beforehand. For longer journeys motorcycle taxis are rarely cheaper than taxi fares for the same distance travelled, but they are a great way to beat the traffic and economical for short journeys, such as the length of a street, which will cost B20–30. Longer rides (B100–150 should get you a half-hour trip across most parts of downtown) are more expensive during rush hour (8–10am, 4–6pm). Hold on tight and keep your knees tucked in (Thai women usually ride side-saddle, with their hands clasped between their knees for modesty). If the driver is going too fast, ask him to slow down in Thai: “cha-cha”.
Transport Etiquette
While it is quite normal to let an elderly person stand up on a crowded bus or train, legions of locals are quick to vacate their seats if a young child steps aboard. On buses, the two seats nearest the door must be vacated for monks; female passengers should not sit next to a monk on any kind of transport. Queuing is still a novel concept to most Thais, so don’t expect any orderly behaviour at bus stops or boat piers. At rush hours on the Skytrain and metro, you often see commuters standing in front of train doors blocking passengers from getting off while squeezing to get in.
Buses
Buses are very cheap but with little English either spoken by staff or on signage, finding the right bus can be frustrating. They come in air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned varieties and the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA) have made attempts to clean up the surrounding air by banning buses with heavy exhaust fumes. Municipal and private operators all come under the charge of the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: 0-2246 0973; www.bmta.co.th). Free maps found at the airport and tourist centres often have bus routes marked.
The most common waterborne transport is The Chao Phraya Express Boat Company (tel: 0-2623 6143), which runs several services between Nonthaburi pier in the north to Ratburana in the south. Boats run every 15 minutes from 6am to 9pm, and stop at different piers according to the coloured flag on top of the boat. Yellow and green flags are fastest, but stop at only 12 piers, while orange flags are slowest but stop at every pier. Sat and Sun have only orange flags. Tickets cost B14–34 and are purchased from the conductor on board or at some pier counters.
The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat (tel: 0-2623 6143) operates daily from 9.30am to 3pm and a trip costs B120. After 3.30pm, you can use the ticket on regular express boats. A useful commentary is provided on board, plus a small guidebook and a bottle of water. The route begins at the Sathorn pier and travels upriver to the Phra Athit pier, stopping at 10 major piers along the way. Boats leave every 30 minutes and you can get off at any pier and pick up another boat later on this hop-on-hop-off service.
River ferries are used for getting from one side of the river to the other. They can be boarded close to the jetties that service the Chao Phraya River Express Boats; cost from B3 per journey; and operate from 5am to 10pm or later.
Longtail boat taxis ply the narrow inner canals, carrying passengers from the centre of town to the outlying districts. Many of the piers are located near road bridges. Be sure to tell the conductor your destination, as boats do not stop otherwise. Tickets cost B5–10, depending on distance, with services operating roughly every 10 minutes until 6–7pm. While there are routes serving Thonburi’s canals and Bangkok’s outskirts, tourists will probably only use the main downtown artery of Khlong Saen Saep, which starts from the Saphan Phan Fah pier near Wat Saket, into the heart of downtown and beyond to Bang Kapi. It’s useful if going to the Old City, Jim Thompson’s House, Siam Paragon and the Thanon Ploenchit malls or all the way to Thonglor and Ekkamai.
If you wish to explore the canals of Thonburi or Nonthaburi, private longtail boats can be hired from most of the river’s main piers. A 90-minute to two-hour tour will take you into the quieter canal communities. Negotiate rates beforehand and get an agreement on what sites will be included and which route the boat will take. On the journey ask to pull up and get out if anything interests you. An hour-long trip should cost B700–800, rising to B1,000 and more for two hours. The price is for the entire boat, which seats up to 16 people, not per person.
Driving in Bangkok has some frustrations, but with a few adjustments and jai yen (a cool heart), the experience is generally comfortable. The problems include: drivers will often cut in front of you with little warning, side streets are very narrow and busy, signalling is rarely used, motorbikes are everywhere, and again have little road discipline, so use of wing mirrors needs to be constant. It might sound scary, but drivers generally stick to their lane, at least, and if you’re used to city driving there should be little to worry about. If you park on the street at night, someone may approach you for a parking fee (usually B40) to watch your car. This is unofficial, but it is better to pay, otherwise your car will be keyed. An international driver’s licence is necessary to drive a car; these are available for hire from around B1,000 a day, including insurance.
Avis: 2/12 Thanon Withayu; tel: 0-2255 5300-4; and Bangkok International Airport Building 2; tel: 0 84 700 8157-9; www.avisthailand.com.
Hertz: Soi 71, Thanon Sukhumvit; tel: 0-2266 4666; www.hertz.com.
Sathorn Car Rent: 6/8–9 Thanon Sathorn; tel: 0-2633 8888.
Trips Out of Bangkok
By Road
Thailand has a good road system with over 50,000km (31,000 miles) of motorways and more being built every year. Road signs are in both Thai and English and you should have no difficulty following a map. An international driver’s licence is required.
Driving on a narrow but busy road can be a terrifying experience, with right-of-way determined by size. It is not unusual for a bus to overtake a truck despite the fact that the oncoming lane is filled with vehicles. A safer option is to hire a car or a van with driver for trips outside of Bangkok. A reliable option is www.thaicarhire.com, with rates from around B1,400 per day.
You can get to several places outside Bangkok, like Pattaya and Hua Hin, by simply flagging a taxi on the street or booking one beforehand. Be sure to negotiate a flat rate before boarding; don’t use the meter.
By Air
Thai Airways International (THAI) services a domestic network, with as many as 14 daily flights to the more popular destinations such as Chiang Mai and Phuket. Bangkok Airways is the second-largest domestic operator. In recent years, a slew of low-cost airlines – like Air Asia and Nok Airways – have entered the market, flying to the main tourism centres in Thailand.
Air Asia: Bangkok International Airport, tel: 0-2215 9999; www.airasia.com.
Bangkok Airways: 99 Moo 14 Thanon Vibhavadi Rangsit; tel: 1771; www.bangkokair.com.
Nok Air: Bangkok International Airport, tel: 1318 (Call Centre); www.nokair.com.
Orient Thai Airlines: 222 Thanon Vibhavadi Rangsit; tel: 0-2229 4260; www.orient-thai.com.
Thai Airways International: Bangkok International Airport; tel: 0-2134 5483; www.thaiair.com.
By Bus
Air-conditioned buses service many destinations in Thailand. VIP coaches with extra leg room are the best for overnight journeys. All buses are operated by the Transport Company Ltd (www.transport.co.th), with terminals at the following locations:
Eastern (Ekamai) Bus Terminal: Thanon Sukhumvit opposite Soi 63, tel: 0-2391 8097.
Northern and Northeastern Bus Terminal: Thanon Khampaengphet 2, Northern: tel: 0-2936 2841–48; Northeastern: tel: 0-2936 2852–66 ext. 611.
Southern Bus Terminal: Thanon Boromrat Chonnani, Thonburi, tel: 0-2435 1200.
By Train
State Railway of Thailand (tel: 0-2222 0175, hotline 1690; www.railway.co.th) operates three principal routes – north, northeast and south – from Hualamphong Railway Station (Thanon Rama 4; tel: 0-2225 0300). Express and rapid services on the main lines offer first-class air-conditioned or second-class fan-cooled carriages with sleeping cabins or berths. In addition, some trains depart from Bangkok Noi Station (tel: 0-2411 3102) in Thonburi.
West
Kanchanaburi
By Train: Take the Southern line from Bangkok Noi Station to Kanchanaburi or to the Kwai River Bridge (via Nakhon Pathom). Two departures daily (7.45am and 1.55pm) for the 2.5-hour journey.
By Bus: Although Kanchanaburi is west of Bangkok, buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal every 20 minutes from 5am to 10.30pm. Journey time: 2.5 hours.
South
Hua Hin
By Taxi: A taxi ride from Bangkok to Hua Hin, taking 3 hours, can be negotiated for a flat rate of B1,500–2,000.
By Train: There are 12 daily departures between 8.05am to 10.50pm for Petchaburi and Hua Hin from Hualamphong Station. The journey takes around 4 hours.
By Bus: Buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes between 6.30am and 5.30pm, stopping at Petchaburi and Cha-am before arriving at Hua Hin. The journey takes around 3.5 hours.
Eastern Seaboard
Pattaya
By Taxi: A taxi ride from Bangkok to Pattaya can be negotiated for a flat rate of B1,500. The ride will take 90 minutes.
By Bus: Buses leave every 40 minutes from 5am to 11pm from the Eastern Bus Terminal. The journey takes around 2 hours.
Ko Samet
By Taxi: A Bangkok taxi will make the 3-hour ride to Ban Phe pier in Rayong province for a flat rate of B2,000.
By Bus: Buses leave every hour from 5am to 9pm from Eastern Bus Terminal to Ban Phe pier. Travel time is 3.5 hours.
By Boat: Once in Ban Phe pier, fishing boats leave every 30 minutes to an hour (or when there are enough passengers) for the short ride to Na Dan pier on Ko Samet. If there are a few of you, hiring a speedboat is much faster (B1,000–B1,500).
Ko Chang
By Bus: Buses leave from Eastern Bus Terminal to Trat every 90 minutes between 6am to 11.30pm. The journey takes around 5 to 6 hours. From Trat bus station take a songthaew (van with bench seats) to Laem Ngop pier.
By Air: Bangkok Airways has three 50-minute flights a day to Trat airport. From the airport take a 20-minute taxi ride to Laem Ngop pier.
By Boat: From Laem Ngop pier, ferries leave nine times a day between 7am and 5pm for Tha Dan Kao pier in Ko Chang.
North
By Train: There are 11 daily departures from Hualamphong from 7am to 10pm. The journey takes around 2 hours.
By Bus: Buses leave every 30 minutes from the Northern Bus Terminal between 5am and 8pm. The journey takes 90 minutes.
By Boat: Several companies operate canal cruises to Ayutthaya; some return the same day, while others take a leisurely 2 to 3 days. The Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: 0-2623 6001) operates a day trip every Sunday at 8am. The River Sun Cruise travels one way by coach and returns by boat (tel: 2266 9125; www.riversuncruise.co.th). More expensive is the overnight trip on board a restored teakwood barge by Manohra Cruises (tel: 0-2477 0770; www.manohracruises.com).
Lopburi
By Train: 11 daily departures from Hualamphong from 7am to 10pm. Journey time: 3 hours.
By Bus: Buses leave every 30 minutes from the Northern Bus Terminal between 5am and 8pm daily. The journey to Lopburi takes about 3 hours.