CREATING THE SASHIKO

MARKING THE DESIGN

The easiest way to mark Sashiko designs on dark fabric is to use a waxless, white transfer paper. Be sure to test your transfer paper first to make sure it produces a clean line and does not smear. Mark carefully—not all transfer paper markings will wash out.

1. Place the transfer paper with the white side down on top of the fabric. Position the pattern on top of the transfer paper.

2. Pin on one side of the pattern, through all 3 layers, and mark part of a pattern line using a stylus, a fine-lead pencil, or a ballpoint pen. Open on the pin hinge to make sure the line is transferring well. The hinge allows you to check your line without disturbing the pattern’s placement.

3. Pin all 4 corners outside the design. Trace and transfer the design.

If a Sashiko design has a simple shape or curve, trace the shape onto template plastic or card stock. Then cut out the shape and use a chalk pencil to trace around the pattern onto dark fabric.

Geometric designs with straight lines can be transferred using a ruler and transfer paper or by marking a grid on the fabric with a chalk pencil.

PREPARING SASHIKO THREAD

1. Open the skein and remove the paper band.

2. Look for the extra loop around the skein; cut through all threads at this point.

3. Cut the other end of the loop.

4. You will have 2 separate bundles of thread. Flip one of the bundles 180°. Sashiko threads have a twist; flipping one bundle will ensure that the twist is going the same way throughout the bundle.

5. Hold onto the entire bundle and pull out a thread. Cut the thread into 3 pieces and use these pieces of thread to tightly tie the bundle in 3 places with square knots.

Sashiko thread tends to fray, so use lengths of thread no longer than 20˝–24˝.

THREAD TIP

Sashiko thread pulls more smoothly and tangles less if you thread it in the needle so that you are pulling with the twist instead of against it as you stitch.

To test the twist, hold up a single thread, pinch close to the top of the thread between your thumb and forefinger, and run your fingers down the length of the thread. It will feel rough one way and smooth the other. You want it to feel smooth when you run your fingers down the thread. Tie a colored thread at the top of the thread bundle when it is positioned correctly, and always pull your threads and thread your needle from this end.

THREAD TIP

Run your Sashiko thread through beeswax or a silicone thread conditioner. This will allow the Sashiko thread to glide through the cloth and will make it less likely to separate.