My return to Rio has been a fascinating, at times infuriating, but thoroughly unforgettable journey; writing a book about the city during a period of intense transformation, when so much was at stake, deepened my connection to the place and proved to be one of my most rewarding experiences. I am deeply grateful to all those who made it possible, and all—from close friends and family to colleagues to complete strangers—who were endlessly patient with my questions, generous with their time, and always willing to listen. My name goes on the cover, but the effort and merit in this work is widely shared.
My first and biggest thank-you goes to my literary agent, David Halpern, who believed in this project from the moment I walked into his office with nothing but an idea. He’s been an exceptional professional, a compassionate listener in moments of crisis, and always a generous human being, unstinting with his time, wisdom, and advice.
I also had the good fortune of having Michelle Howry as an editor, and the whip-smart team at Touchstone/Simon & Schuster on my side. Michelle’s thoughtful suggestions improved the manuscript enormously, breaking up wordy chapters into readable chunks and guiding me smoothly through the production process. To the copyeditor, the book and cover designers, the mapmakers, and all those at Touchstone who have been so good to this book and who made the production process so seamless, my most heartfelt thanks.
Outside Touchstone, many attentive readers helped shape this book, improving it at every turn. I am most grateful to the lovely JillEllyn Riley, who walked with me through the hardest months, reading first drafts and second drafts, offering support, insight and a measure of calm, always ready to bridge the distance between New York and Rio through long Skype chats and terrible phone connections. Thank you for it all.
Other friends and colleagues lent their expertise and their time, reading over specific chapters and giving feedback. Thank you, foremost, to Joelle Hahn, a lover of all things Rio with a keen eye for language, for your time and good will; and to Maureen Gaffney, for your focus and your detailed comments.
It has been my extraordinary luck to write about Rio alongside a stellar group of correspondents. They were my companions and my teachers, and I relied on them in my work and in life, as friendships deepened over deadlines and drinks. Many helped me directly—thank you, Juan Pablo Spinetto, Tariq Panja, Julia Michaels, Arturo Lezcano and Tom Phillips for your comments, and Simon and Carol Romero, Jon Watts, Jenny Barchfield, Marcelo Lessa, Cecilia Olliveira and Andrew Fishman for advice on various levels. Taylor Barnes and Catherine Osborn did some of the research heavy lifting; those endless hours of interviews wouldn’t have been transcribed without the untiring Lanna Leite and Zoe Roller. Manuela Andreoni was a dream fact-checker—a worthy journalist in her own right, deeply knowledgeable about Rio, and unflaggingly attentive to detail. Other friends—Alberto Armendariz, Javier Tovar, Laura Bonilla, Gerardo Lissardy, Flora Charner, Felipe Dana and the rest of the AP team, meus muito queridos Daniel Silva and Diego Galeano—were essential parts of my life and helped shape the way I saw Rio. Thank you for being there, and for your warmth and friendship.
This book would not have been possible without all those who opened their lives and told me their stories. This includes the individuals whose stories are told here, but many whose voices were not included for simple lack of space; obrigada, in particular, to Otávio Júnior, Rene Silva Santos, Maycom Brum and Flávia Froes for helping me understand Alemão and what happened there. Inalva Mendes Brito has spent years working on behalf of Vila Autódromo and countless hours sharing that experience. Obrigada de coração.
A number of experts helped frame my understanding of specific aspects of Rio. Among those whose contributions shaped this book and who are not named elsewhere are Ignacio Cano, foremost researcher on violence in Rio; Theresa Williamson, tireless investigator and advocate of favelas; Mário Moscatelli and Marcelo Mello, biologists who have dedicated decades to improving Rio’s natural environment; Carlos Amorin, whose knowledge of Rio’s criminal history and the Comando Vermelho in particular is unparalleled; and Adalberto Megale and Cristina Pinho at Petrobras, who helped me delve into the connection between pre-salt oil exploration and the renovation of Brazil’s ports. This book would have been far poorer without your patience and generosity.
I owe much thanks to my family—my parents, Rosa and Almir Barbassa; my siblings, Tatiana and Guilherme; their partners, Jaime and Luciana; and their children, the little Cariocas I love the most. They are my emotional tether to this beautiful and mad city, and the reason I care so deeply what becomes of it. They were steadfast supporters not so much of this project but of me, and that is what matters most.
Finally, I owe my greatest debt to Christopher Gaffney. He is my love and my partner, my sharpest critic, my keenest reader and my most devoted ally. His wit, his kindness and his moral compass were essential when navigating the rougher patches of this work and of life in a difficult city. Thank you.