Introduction

It was the mountains that lured me to the Pacific Northwest in the summer of 1989, and the mountains have kept me firmly planted here ever since. And while there’s no shortage of excellent hiking in the Cascades, Olympics, Coast Ranges, Blues, and Selkirk Mountains, the San Juan and Gulf Islands of the region’s Salish Sea should not be overlooked when it comes to fine trails. I’ve been hooked on hiking in these islands ever since I first took to the trails of Orcas Island’s Moran State Park in the autumn of 1989.

The San Juan and Gulf Islands are a one-of-a-kind natural landmark, an archipelago of hundreds of islands, large and small, located within a vast network of coastal waterways that straddle the Washington and British Columbia border. These islands take up residence in two countries yet share a common human, cultural, and natural history. Each island also retains its own identity—its own distinct atmosphere.

This book celebrates the beauty and the natural and human history of these Salish Sea islands, along with a bit of the mainland, treating this region divided by an international border as one. You’ll find 136 hikes in this guide, split roughly 50-50 between Washington and British Columbia, encompassing all of the ferry-accessible islands as well as many of the islands that are state and provincial marine parks—twenty-eight islands in all. Also included are Anacortes and Fidalgo Island, Tsawwassen and Point Roberts, and Victoria and the Saanich Peninsula—gateways to the islands that share the region’s cultural, historical, and natural features.

While you may think the islands are primarily for motor- and sailboaters, kayakers and canoeists, this book aims to convince you that they are prime day-hiking destinations as well. Most hikes in this book are accessible by ferry and roads—no boat needed. And of the few islands in this book that don’t have ferry access, almost all can be reached by reliable water taxi services. Some of the islands, depending on where you live, are conducive to day trips; many warrant a weekend getaway or three-day holiday excursion. Getting to them is half the fun and part of the adventure. Settle on an island for a couple of days and day hike to your heart’s content.

In this book you’ll find trails to secluded beaches, bays, and coves; trails on rugged coastal ledges and bluffs; trails through magnificent old-growth forests that were old even when George Vancouver sailed into the Salish Sea. You’ll find trails to nature preserves, historical sites, old homesteads, lighthouses, hilltops, and open bluffs that burst with wildflowers. Choose from hikes that are perfect for children, friendly to dogs, or great for observing wildlife. Another draw of this region is its mild weather. Located directly within the rain shadow cast by the Olympics and Vancouver Island mountains, the hikes in this region are accessible (and almost always snow-free) all year round. I’m excited to share these hikes with you!

And with that, it’s time once again for my “battle cry” from my previous titles in the Day Hiking series. As our world continues to urbanize—its denizens growing more sedentary, materialistic, and disconnected from the natural world each day—life for many has lost its real meaning. Nature may need us to protect it from becoming paved over—but we need nature to protect us from the encroachments of vacuous consumption and shallow pursuits. So, shun the mall, turn off the TV, ditch the smart phone, and hit the trail! Yes, you! Go take a hike! Celebrate life and return from the natural world a better and more content person.

If I’m preaching to the choir, help me then to introduce new disciples to our sacred creed. For while we sometimes relish our solitude on the trail, we need more like-minded souls to help us preserve what little wildlands remain. Help nature by introducing family members, coworkers, neighbors, children, and government officials to our wonderful trails. I’m convinced that a society that hikes is good not only for our wild and natural places (people will be willing to protect them) but also for us (we will live healthy and connected lives).

USING THIS BOOK

The Day Hiking series strikes a fine balance. The guidebooks are designed to be as easy to use as possible while still providing enough detail to help you explore a region. As a result, these books include all the information you need to find and enjoy the hikes but leave enough room for you to make your own discoveries. I have hiked every mile of these trails, so you can follow my directions with confidence. Conditions do change, however. More on that below.

What the Ratings Mean

Each hike starts with detailed trail facts. The overall rating of 1 to 5 stars is based on a hike’s overall appeal, and the numerical difficulty score of 1 to 5 measures how challenging the hike is. These ratings are purely subjective, based on my impressions of each route, but they do follow a formula of sorts.

The overall rating is based on scenic beauty, natural wonder, and other unique qualities, such as the potential for solitude and wildlife-viewing opportunities.

***** Unmatched hiking adventure. A bucket list hike!
**** Excellent experience that ranks among the best hikes
*** A great hike that is sure to impress and inspire
** May lack exceptional scenery or unique trail experience, but offers little moments to enjoy
* Worth doing as a refreshing walk, especially if you’re in the neighborhood

The difficulty score is based on trail length, cumulative elevation gain, steepness, and trail conditions. Generally, trails that are rated more difficult (4 or 5) are longer and steeper than average. But it’s not a simple equation. A short, steep trail over uneven surfaces and ledges may be rated 5, while a long, smooth trail with little elevation gain may be rated 2.

5Extremely difficult: excessive elevation gain and/or more than 5 miles one-way

4Difficult: Some steep sections, possibly rough trail or poorly maintained trail

3Moderate: A good workout but no real problems

2Moderately easy: Relatively flat or short route with good trail

1Easy: A relaxing stroll in the woods

Roundtrip distance is given in miles and kilometers. While I have measured most of the hikes using GPS and have consulted maps and land management agencies for all the hikes, the distance stated may not always be exact, but it’ll be pretty close. Kilometers are rounded up in the hike descriptions, and the cumulative total is the proper mile equivalent.

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Many of the islands’ trails are kid and family friendly.

Elevation gain is given in feet and meters. It represents the cumulative elevation gain on a route, that is, the total amount that you’ll go up on a hike. Meters are rounded up in the hike descriptions, and the cumulative total in meters is pretty close to its equivalent in feet.

A hike’s high point is the highest elevation you’ll encounter, given in feet and meters. It’s worth noting that not all high points are at the end of the trail—a route may run over a ridge before dropping to the coast, for instance.

The maps listed for each hike are the relevant topographic maps: in the United States, US Geological Survey (USGS) or Green Trails maps; in Canada, the Centre for Topographic Information’s National Topographic System (NTS) maps. When the land management agency or overseeing land steward has a map available, it is referenced as well. For an excellent overview map of the San Juan Islands, complete with parks and preserves, consult Square One Maps (squareonemaps.com).

The contact listed for each hike is the area’s land management agency or land steward. Appendix I: Contact Information contains the specific phone numbers and websites for all agencies, listed alphabetically. Always check with the governing agency before you set out, to get current information about trail conditions and any permit or fee requirements.

Notes for each trip detail things like permits required, possible hazards, and seasonal closures.

Trailhead GPS coordinates are provided to help get you to the trail—and back to your car if you wander off-trail.

Icons at the start of each hike give a quick overview of each trail's offerings:

image Kid-friendly

image Dog-friendly

image Exceptional wildflowers in season

image Beach-walking opportunities

image Whale-watching

image Exceptional old-growth forest

image Exceptional bird-watching

image Historical relevance

The route descriptions tell you what you might find on a hike, including geographic features, scenic potential, flora and fauna, and more. Driving directions from the nearest large town or ferry terminal (for the islands) will get you to the trailhead. Options for Extending Your Trip round out many hikes so that, if you like, you can add miles to your hike or visit nearby trails and places of interest.

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A heron looks for dinner in Wittys Lagoon.

Of course, you’ll need some information long before you leave home. So, as you plan your trips, consider the following.

BORDER CROSSINGS

All Americans traveling to Canada and Canadians traveling to the United States must have either a valid passport or an enhanced driver’s license (issued by Washington, Michigan, New York, Vermont, British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec) for clearing customs. This is required for all land crossings, air crossings, and international ferry crossings.

Certain restrictions apply in regard to crossing the border. Due to heightened concern over child abduction, children traveling with one parent, grandparents, or guardian(s) should carry proof of custody or a letter authorizing travel from the non-accompanying parent(s). This is in addition to proof of the child’s citizenship. Anyone with a criminal record (including a drunk-driving conviction) may be barred entry into Canada. There are also limits and restrictions on what you can take over the border (foods, weapons, etc.). Consult US Customs and Border Protection (www.cbp.gov/travel), the Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/menu-eng.html), and the US Embassy (for information for Canadians: http://canada.usembassy.gov/visas/information-for-canadians.html).

PETS

Americans wanting to take their dog with them to Canada must have a certificate to show that the animal has been vaccinated against rabies within the last three years. The certificate has to be dated and signed by a veterinarian, and it must identify the animal by breed, age, sex, coloring, and any distinguishing marks. For a dog less than three months old or a guide dog, you do not need a certificate, but the animal has to be in good health when it arrives.

Canadian dogs heading to the United States must be vaccinated against rabies at least thirty days before entering the United States. This requirement does not apply to puppies less than three months old.

CURRENCY

Americans and Canadians traveling outside their countries should carry at least a small amount of local currency. Exchange rates for the American dollar and Canadian dollar (called a loonie, after the one-dollar coin that pictures a loon), have been close to parity for several years. Some merchants will accept foreign currency at par. Most merchants readily accept major credit cards (MasterCard and Visa work best). Using credit cards avoids exchange worries (although most cards charge an exchange fee).

CELL PHONES

There is cell phone coverage throughout most of the islands, depending on your carrier. It is not uncommon for American providers to cover Canadian soil and vice versa. However, if you don’t have an international calling plan, you will incur costly roaming charges. Most cell phone providers offer reasonable plans that cover both the United States and Canada, and you may want to consider such a plan if you’ll be crossing the border frequently. Otherwise, consider a phone card—but finding a pay phone (what’s that?) may be a challenge.

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Penny can’t wait to start hiking on Sinclair Island.

FERRIES

For many hikes in this guidebook, you’ll need to navigate a ferry system or two, ranging from near ocean liners to small, open-deck, county-operated ferries. With a little advance planning, you shouldn’t have too much trouble setting sail for your destination.

Washington State Ferries

Washington State Ferries (WSF) (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) serves the four main San Juan Islands from its terminal at Anacortes on Fidalgo Island (reached via State Route 20 from Burlington on Interstate 5, about halfway between Seattle and Vancouver, British Columbia). The WSF also provides interisland ferry service and seasonal sailings to Sidney on Vancouver Island.

The WSF does not accept reservations, except on the Sidney run, for which car reservations are mandatory (because this is an international sailing, proper documentation is required). Summer traffic (especially on weekends) can be heavy, requiring that you queue up well ahead of your sailing time. Winter service to the islands is less frequent, but getting a space (except on holiday weekends) is generally not an issue.

Walk-on and bicycle passengers can board the sailing of their choice without worrying about a long wait. There are plenty of parking spaces (for a fee) at the Anacortes ferry terminal to accommodate these travelers.

On board, you’ll find viewing lounges, newspapers, a cafeteria, and Wi-Fi (for a fee), as well as travel brochures.

BC Ferries

BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com) operates one of the largest ferry fleets in the world. Its main terminal for travel from the lower British Columbia mainland (aka the Lower Mainland) is in Tsawwassen, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Vancouver and 25 miles (40 km) west of the Peace Arch border crossing. From Tsawwassen there are frequent crossings to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island (about 20 miles [32 km] north of Victoria) as well as direct and interisland service for Galiano, Mayne, Pender, Saturna, and Salt Spring islands. Of note: service to these islands is more frequent from Swartz Bay, sometimes making a through-trip (sailing from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay and then onward to one of the islands) a better choice.

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Water taxis are available to shuttle you to islands not serviced by ferries.

BC Ferries offers car reservations (for a fee) for sailings from Tsawwassen to Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Reservations are highly recommended. For Gabriola and Thetis islands, which can only be reached by ferry from Vancouver Island, you first must sail to Departure Bay or Duke Point (near Nanaimo) on Vancouver Island. These Nanaimo-area terminals can be reached by ferry from either Tsawwassen (convenient for people traveling from the United States) or from Horseshoe Bay north of Vancouver. Reservations are available on these sailings.

Walk-on and bicycle passengers can board the sailing of their choice without worrying about a long wait. There is plenty of parking (for a fee) at both the Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay terminals to accommodate these travelers. There is also bus service to Tsawwassen from Vancouver (via Pacific Coach, www.pacificcoach.com, or Translink, www.translink.ca).

The BC Ferries vessels that connect to Vancouver Island are quite luxurious compared to those of Washington State Ferries. They have huge carrying capacities, multiple levels, solariums, restaurant service, work stations, TVs, a nursery, bookstore and gift shop, travel information, Wi-Fi (for a fee), and quiet lounges.

Black Ball Ferry

The Black Ball Ferry (https://cohoferry.com) is a private line that offers (almost) year-round service between Port Angeles on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula and Victoria on Vancouver Island. Its ferry, the MV Coho, has a classic retro feel and is equipped with food service, viewing lounges, duty-free shop, and gift shop. Reservations are required for cars but not for walk-on passengers and bicyclists. There are private pay-parking lots near the terminals in Port Angeles and Victoria. Because this is an international sailing, proper documentation is required.

County Ferries

Skagit County operates the ferry to Guemes Island (www.skagitcounty.net) and Whatcom County operates the ferry to Lummi Island (www.co.whatcom.wa.us). Both runs generally see light traffic except for commuting hours, weekends, and holidays. Multiple sailings usually mean short wait times—and no waits for bicyclists and foot passengers.

GOING CAR-FREE

The islands are excellent destinations for car-free travel. The advantages of taking your bike or walking on the ferry are much cheaper ferry fees, no reservations necessary, no need to arrive early for the ferry—and leaving a lighter carbon footprint. Many of the islands, with their lightly traveled roads, are bike-friendly. The islands do tend to be hilly, so bicycling them may be challenging.

Many island accommodations are also bike-friendly, with secure bicycle storage. Many of the public campgrounds offer biker/hiker campsites that don’t require reservations. On Vancouver Island, it’s possible to bike from both the Swartz Bay and Sidney ferry terminals all the way to Victoria entirely on bike paths. In this book, I have noted trailheads that provide bike racks, which will make it easier to secure your bike (which you should always do) when setting off for a hike.

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Bicycling is a popular means of transportation on the islands.

While I don’t encourage hitchhiking, it’s quite common on the islands. It’s also a common occurrence to be walking on an island road and have someone drive up to you and offer you a ride. On most of the Gulf Islands, there are designated passenger pickup stops (like bus stops), where you can wait for passing drivers to give you a ride (if they choose). Some of these designated stops are close to or at parks and trailheads too. While the islands tend to be very safe places, use discretion and sound judgment in deciding whether to solicit or offer a ride.

Buses

Many of the parks and trails, as well as the ferry terminals, in the Victoria area can be reached by public transit. Consult the Victoria Regional Transit System (www.transitbc.com/regions/vic) for schedules and routes. Summer bus service is also available on Orcas and San Juan islands (www.sanjuantransit.com), and year-round bus service is available on Salt Spring Island (www.transitbc.com/regions/ssi). A community bus line is also operated on Gabriola Island (gabriolacommunitybus.com).

CAMPING AND LODGING

The islands offer a wide variety of lodging options. Securing a room or campsite can be a challenge in the summer months as well as on certain holiday weekends (e.g., Victoria Day in British Columbia and Memorial Day in the United States).

In each area introduction in this book I list public and some private campgrounds where available. It’s especially important to make reservations before traveling to the smaller islands, as accommodations are extremely limited. Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and Ganges on Salt Spring Island offer many lodging options, but they too will fill up during busy travel periods.

PERMITS, REGULATIONS, AND FEES

In this book you’ll find properties managed by land trusts, which are usually open to the public without fees; the US National Park Service (San Juan Island National Historical Park) and Parks Canada (Gulf Islands National Park Reserve), which charge no day-use fees for areas listed in this book; the US Bureau of Land Management which charges no day-use fee for San Juan Islands National Monument; provincial parks which charge no day-use fee; and county and regional parks, some of which charge a seasonal day-use fee.

Destinations managed by Washington State Parks require a day-use fee in the form of the Discover Pass (www.discoverpass.wa.gov) for vehicle access. A Discover Pass costs US$10 per vehicle per day or US$30 for up to two vehicles annually. You can purchase the pass online, at many retail outlets, or better yet, from a state park office to avoid the US$5 handling fee. Each hike description in this book clearly states if a fee is charged or a pass is required.

WEATHER

The San Juan and Gulf Islands share a Mediterranean climate, with generally mild winters and warm, dry summers. The thermometer rarely tops 80°F (27°C) or dips below 32°F (0°C) here. Furthermore, the area lies within a rainshadow, thanks to the Olympics and Vancouver Island mountains that catch and trap storm systems. Victoria, for example, receives on average only 23.9 inches (61 cm) of annual precipitation, making it one of the driest locations on Canada’s west coast. Friday Harbor on San Juan Island gets about 28 inches (71 cm) of precipitation annually, likewise for Anacortes on Fidalgo Island. November through April tend to be the wettest months, August and September the driest. Except for the highest reaches of Salt Spring and Orcas islands, snowfall is extremely rare in the region. The San Juan and Gulf Islands offer excellent hiking opportunities year-round.

That said, you should always pack raingear. Being caught in a sudden rain and wind storm without adequate clothing can lead to hypothermia (loss of body temperature), which is deadly if not immediately treated. Most hikers who die of exposure (hypothermia) do so not in winter, but during the milder months when a sudden change of temperature, accompanied by winds and rain, sneaks up on them. Always carry extra clothing layers, including rain and wind protection.

Lightning is extremely rare in the islands, but if you hear thunder, waste no time getting off of open ridges and away from water. Take shelter, but not under big trees or rock ledges. If caught in an electrical storm, crouch down, making minimal contact with the ground, and wait for the boomer to pass.

Strong winds can be a concern in the islands, especially in late fall and winter. Avoid hiking during high winds, which carry with them the hazards of falling trees and branches.

Always check the National Weather Service (www.noaa.gov) or Environment Canada (weather.gc.ca) weather forecast for the region before you go, and plan accordingly.

ROAD AND TRAIL CONDITIONS

In general, trails change little year to year. But change can and does occur. A heavy storm can cause a river to jump its channel, washing out sections of trail or access road. Windstorms can blow down trees across trails, making paths unhikable. With this in mind, each hike in this book lists the land manager to contact prior to your trip to ensure that your chosen road and trail are open and safe.

On the topic of trail conditions, it is vital that we thank the countless volunteers who donate tens of thousands of hours to trail maintenance each year. The Washington Trails Association (www.wta.org) alone coordinates upward of one hundred thousand hours of volunteer trail maintenance annually. Consider getting involved. A list of conservation and trail organizations and advocates is located at the back of this book.

WATER

Treat all backcountry water sources to prevent exposure to Giardia (a waterborne parasite) and other aquatic nasties. Treating water is as simple as boiling it, chemically purifying it (adding iodine tablets), or pumping it through a water filter and purifier.

BEARS

Except perhaps in a few of the larger regional and provincial parks outside of Victoria, encountering bears is not an issue for the hikes in this book. But if you do encounter one, the following tips should help keep you (and the bear) safe:

Make a wide detour around the bear, or if that’s not possible, leave the area.

Do not run, as this may trigger a predatory/prey reaction from the bear.

Talk in a low, calm voice to the bear to help identify yourself as a human, and don’t stare directly at the bear.

If you surprise a bear and it charges from close range, lie down and play dead. A surprised bear will leave you once the perceived threat is neutralized. However, if it still attacks, fight back. Kick, stab, punch at the bear. If it knows you will fight back, it may leave you and search for easier prey.

COUGARS

As with bears, the only hikes in the book where you risk encountering a cougar (and a very rare possibility at that) are in one of the large regional and provincial parks outside of Victoria. If you do encounter one, remember that cougars rely on prey that can’t, or won’t, fight back. So, as soon as you see the cat, heed the following:

Do not run! Running may trigger a cougar’s attack instinct. Back away slowly if you can safely do so, not taking your eyes off of the animal.

Stand up and face the cougar. If you seem like another aggressive predator rather than prey, the cougar will back down.

Pick up children and small dogs.

Try to appear large. Wave your arms or a jacket over your head.

Maintain eye contact with the animal. The cougar will interpret this as a show of dominance on your part.

If the cougar attacks, fight back aggressively. Shout loudly. Throw things. Wave your trekking poles, and if the cat gets close enough, whack it hard with your poles.

WANT TO PROTECT IT? BUY IT!

What’s the fastest, most surefire, and often least controversial way to protect land? Buy it yourself! And that’s exactly what land trusts across the United States and Canada do. A concept that began in Massachusetts in the late 1800s, land trusts today number in the thousands from coast to coast, nearly all of them nonprofit organizations whose primary purpose is to buy land and secure development rights in order to protect natural areas, farmland, shorelines, wildlife habitat, and recreational land. Once the land is secured, trusts then usually transfer it with legally bound stipulations to government agencies to be managed for the public. Many trusts, however, also maintain their own preserves, and most of these are open to the public.

These are some of the many land trusts operating in the islands:

The San Juan Preservation Trust (www.sjpt.org), founded in 1979, has protected more than 260 properties, 37 miles (60 km) of shoreline and 15,000 acres (6000 ha) on twenty islands. The trust ranks in the top 2 percent of land trusts nationally (of more than seventeen hundred) in number of properties protected.

Gabriola Land and Trails Trust (www.galtt.ca), established in 2004, has been instrumental in developing Gabriola Island’s trail system and in establishing new parks.

Galiano Conservancy Association (galianoconservancy.ca), established in 1989, has protected more than 1000 acres (400 ha).

Lummi Island Heritage Trust (www.liht.org), established in 1998, has protected more than 850 acres (340 ha).

Salt Spring Island Conservancy (www.saltspringconservancy.ca), established in 1995, has protected more than 3000 acres (1200 ha).

Skagit Land Trust (www.skagitlandtrust.org), established in 1992, has protected more than 6400 acres (2600 ha).

AN OUTDOORS ETHIC

A strong, positive outdoors ethic includes making sure you leave the trail (and park) as good as (or even better than) when you found it. But a sound outdoors ethic goes deeper than simply picking up after ourselves (and others) when we go for a hike. The same ethic must carry over into our daily lives. We need to ensure that our elected officials and public-land managers recognize and respond to our wilderness needs and desires. Get involved with groups and organizations that safeguard, watchdog, and advocate for land protection. And get on the phone and keyboard and let land managers and public officials know how important protecting lands and trails is to you.

TRAIL ETIQUETTE

We need to be sensitive not only to the environment surrounding our trails but to other trail users as well. Some of the trails in this book are also open to mountain bikers and equestrians. When you encounter other trail users, whether they are hikers, runners, bicyclists, or horse riders, the only hard-and-fast rule is to follow common sense and exercise simple courtesy. With this Golden Rule of Trail Etiquette firmly in mind, here are other things you can do to make everyone’s trip more enjoyable:

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Feral goats on Saturna Island

Right-of-way. When meeting other hikers, the uphill group has the right-of-way. There are two reasons for this. First, on steep ascents, hikers may be watching the trail and may not notice the approach of descending hikers until they are face-to-face. More importantly, it is easier for descending hikers to break their stride and step off the trail than it is for those who have gotten into a good, climbing rhythm.

Moving off-trail. When meeting other user groups (like bicyclists and horseback riders), the hiker should move off the trail. This is because hikers are more mobile and flexible than other users.

Encountering horses. When meeting horseback riders, the hiker should step off the downhill side of the trail unless the terrain makes this difficult or dangerous. In that case, move to the uphill side of the trail, but crouch down a bit so you don’t tower over the horses’ heads. Also, make yourself visible so as not to spook the big beastie, and talk in a normal voice to the riders. This calms the horses. If hiking with a dog, keep your buddy under control.

Stay on trails. Don’t cut switchbacks, take shortcuts, or make new trails.

Obey the rules specific to the trail you’re visiting. Many trails are closed to certain types of use, including mountain biking and hiking with dogs.

Hiking with dogs. Hikers who take dogs on the trails should have their dog on a leash or under very strict voice command at all times. And if leashes are required, then this does apply to you. Too many dog owners flagrantly disregard this regulation, setting themselves up for tickets, hostile words from fellow hikers, and the possibility of losing the right to bring Fido out on that trail in the future. Dog waste should be properly disposed of too. Far too many hikers (this author included, who happens to love dogs) have had very negative encounters with dogs (actually, the dog owners) on the trail. Many hikers are not fond of dogs on the trail, and some are actually afraid. Respect their right to not be approached by your pooch. A well-behaved leashed dog, however, can help warm up these hikers to your buddy.

Avoid disturbing wildlife. Observe wildlife from a distance, resisting the urge to move closer (use your telephoto lens). This not only keeps you safer, but it prevents the animal from having to exert itself unnecessarily in fleeing from you.

Never roll rocks off trails or cliffs. You risk endangering lives below you.

Use privies, or bury your waste. An important Leave No Trace principle involves the business of taking care of business. The first rule of backcountry bathroom etiquette says that if an outhouse exists, use it. Otherwise, choose a site at least 200 feet from water, campsites, and trails. Dig a cat hole. Once you’re done, bury your waste with organic duff and a “Microbes at Work” sign (just kidding).

Pack it in, pack it out. This includes even biodegradable items like orange peels and pistachio shells.

Take only photographs. Leave all natural things, features, and historical artifacts as you found them for others to enjoy. “Leave only footprints, take only pictures,” is a slogan to live by.

GEAR

While a full description of all suitable gear is beyond the scope of this book (which is about where to hike not how to hike), it’s worth noting a few pointers here. No hiker should venture far up a trail without being properly equipped.

Let’s start with your feet: A good pair of boots can make all the difference between a wonderful hike and a blistering affair. For socks, synthetic ones work best for me. Wearing liners worn with wool socks is also a good choice.

For clothing, wear whatever is most comfortable, unless it’s cotton. When cotton gets wet, it stays wet and lacks any insulation value. In fact, wet cotton sucks away body heat, leaving you susceptible to hypothermia. Think synthetics and layering.

Every hiker who ventures into the woods should also pack the Ten Essentials, as well as a few other items that aren’t necessarily essential but that are good to have on hand in an emergency.

The Ten Essentials

1.Navigation (map and compass): Carry a topographic map of the area you plan to be in and knowledge of how to read it. Likewise a compass. A GPS unit can be useful too.

2.Sun protection (sunglasses and sunscreen): Even on wet and cloudy days, carry sunscreen and sunglasses. You never know when the clouds will lift. You can easily burn near water.

3.Insulation (extra clothing): Storms can and do blow in rapidly. Be sure to carry rain and wind gear and extra layers.

4.Illumination (flashlight/headlamp): If caught after dark, you’ll need a headlamp or flashlight to be able to follow the trail. If forced to spend the night, you’ll need light to set up an emergency camp, gather wood, and so on. Carry extra batteries too.

5.First-aid supplies: At the very least your kit should include bandages, gauze, scissors, tape, tweezers, pain relievers, antiseptics, and perhaps a small manual. Consider first-aid training through a program such as MOFA (Mountaineering Oriented First Aid).

6.Fire (firestarter and matches): If you’re forced to spend the night, an emergency campfire will provide warmth. Be sure you keep your matches dry. Sealable plastic bags do the trick. A candle can come in handy too.

7.Repair kit and tools (including a knife): A knife is helpful; a multitool is better. A basic repair kit should include such things as nylon cord, a small roll of duct tape, some 1-inch webbing and extra webbing buckles (to fix broken pack straps), and a small tube of superglue. A handful of safety pins can do wonders too.

8.Nutrition (extra food): Always pack more food than what you need for your hike. If you’re forced to spend the night, you’ll be prepared. Pack energy bars for emergency pick-me-ups.

9.Hydration (extra water): Carry at least one 32-ounce (1-liter) water bottle. Bring iodine tablets or a filter in case you’re forced to draw water from a natural source.

10.Emergency shelter: This can be as simple as a garbage bag or something more efficient, such as a reflective space blanket. A poncho can double as an emergency tarp.

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Look closely to see a bald eagle perched in a lone fir on an islet off Gabriola Island.

TRAILHEAD CONCERNS

Sadly, the topic of trailhead and trail crime must be addressed. While violent crime is extremely rare on the trail (practically absent, thankfully), it’s a grim reminder that we are never truly free from the worst elements of society.

By and large our hiking trails are safe places, far safer than many city streets. Common sense and vigilance, however, are still in order. This is true for all hikers, but particularly for solo hikers. Be aware of your surrounding at all times. Leave your itinerary with someone back home. If something doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. Take action by leaving the place or situation immediately. But remember, most hikers are friendly, decent people. Some may be a little introverted, but that’s no cause for worry.

By far your biggest concern should be with trailhead theft. Car break-ins are a far too common occurrence at some of our trailheads, especially in British Columbia’s Lower Mainland and Victoria area. Do not—absolutely under no circumstances—leave anything of value in your vehicle while you’re hiking. Take your wallet, cell phone, and listening devices with you. Or better yet, don’t bring them along in the first place. Don’t leave anything in your car that might look valuable. A duffle bag on the back seat may contain dirty T-shirts, but a thief might think there’s a laptop in it. Save yourself the hassle of returning to a busted window by not giving criminals a reason to clout your car.

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One of Moran State Park’s rustic signposts

If you arrive at a trailhead and someone looks suspicious, don’t discount your intuition. Take notes on the person and his or her vehicle. Record the license plate and report the behavior to the authorities. Do not confront the person. Leave and go to another trail.

While most car break-ins are crimes of opportunity by drug addicts looking for loot to support their fix, organized gangs intent on stealing IDs have also been known to target parked cars at trailheads. While some trailheads are regularly targeted, and others rarely if at all, there’s no sure way of preventing this from happening to you other than being dropped off at the trailhead or taking the bus. But you can make your car less of a target by not leaving anything of value in it.

ENJOY THE TRAILS

Most importantly, be safe and enjoy the thrill of discovery and exercise on the trails in this book. They exist for our enjoyment and for the enjoyment of future generations of hikers. Happy hiking!

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