Chapter 3: Downtown

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

GREAT EXPERIENCES DOWNTOWN

dingbat Waterfront delights: Stroll along the Embarcadero, explore Seaport Village, or enjoy a harbor cruise.

dingbat Contemporary art for all ages: From the stunning galleries of the Museum of Contemporary Art to the clever incorporation of art and play at the New Children’s Museum, Downtown is the place for art.

dingbat Maritime history: Climb aboard and explore a wide array of vessels from sailing ships to submarines.

dingbat Delicious dining: The hip and high-style restaurants of Little Italy, the Gaslamp Quarter, and the East Village make Downtown San Diego a diner’s delight.

dingbat Happening Gaslamp: It’s hard to believe this hip neighborhood filled with street art, galleries, restaurants, and buzzing nightlife was once slated for the wrecking ball.

GETTING HERE

It’s an easy drive into Downtown, especially from the nearby airport. There are reasonably priced parking lots (about $10 per day) along Harbor Drive, Pacific Highway, and lower Broadway and Market Street. Most restaurants offer valet parking at night, but beware of fees of $15 and up.

If you tire of exploring Downtown on foot, hop aboard a pedicab, hail the Free Ride Everywhere Downtown (FRED) shuttle, or rent a GoCar (three-wheel cars equipped with a GPS-guided audio tour).

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Most Downtown attractions are open daily, but the Museum of Contemporary Art is closed Wednesday and the New Children’s Museum is closed on Tuesday during the school year. For guided tours of the Gaslamp Quarter Historic District, visit on Saturday. A boat trip on the harbor, or at least a hop over to Coronado on the ferry, is a must at any time of year. From December through March, when gray whales migrate between the Pacific Northwest and southern Baja, consider booking a whale-watching excursion from the Broadway Pier.

QUICK BITES

dingbat Carnitas’ Snack Shack - Embarcadero. Indulge in some carnitas tacos, a BLT, or the “Triple Threat” pork sandwich at the Embarcadero outpost of this popular swine-heavy dining spot. Known for: the “Triple Threat” pork sandwich; amazing tacos. dingbat 1004 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/616–7675 dingbat www.carnitassnackshack.com.

dingbat Pappalecco. Kids and adults alike will swoon over the addictive gelato at Pappalecco, while those seeking something savory can choose from a selection of panini and other snacks. dingbat 1602 State St., Little Italy dingbat 619/238–4590 dingbat www.pappalecco.com dingbat No credit cards.

VISITOR INFORMATION

dingbat San Diego Visitor Information Center. This colorful and inviting visitor center is a great resource for information and discounts on hotels, restaurants, and local attractions. dingbat 996 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/236–1242 dingbat www.sandiego.org.

Nearly written off in the 1970s, today Downtown San Diego is a testament to conservation and urban renewal. Once derelict Victorian storefronts now house the hottest restaurants, and the Star of India, the world’s oldest active sailing ship, almost lost to scrap, floats regally along the Embarcadero. Like many modern U.S. cities, Downtown San Diego’s story is as much about its rebirth as its history. Although many consider Downtown to be the 16½-block Gaslamp Quarter, it actually comprises eight neighborhoods, including East Village, Little Italy, and Embarcadero.

Gaslamp Quarter

Considered the liveliest of the Downtown neighborhoods, the Gaslamp Quarter’s 4th and 5th avenues are peppered with trendy nightclubs, swanky lounge bars, chic restaurants, and boisterous sports pubs. The Gaslamp has the largest collection of commercial Victorian-style buildings in the country. Despite this, when the move for Downtown redevelopment gained momentum in the 1970s, there was talk of bulldozing them and starting from scratch. In response, concerned history buffs, developers, architects, and artists formed the Gaslamp Quarter Council to clean up and preserve the quarter.

The majority of the quarter’s landmark buildings are on 4th and 5th avenues, between Island Avenue and Broadway. If you don’t have much time, stroll down 5th Avenue, where highlights include Louis Bank of Commerce (No. 835), Old City Hall (No. 664), Nesmith-Greeley (No. 825), and Yuma (No. 631) buildings. The Romanesque Revival Keating Hotel at 432 F Street was designed by the same firm that created the famous Hotel Del Coronado, the Victorian grande dame that presides over Coronado’s beach. At the corner of 4th Avenue and F Street, peer into the Hard Rock Cafe, which occupies a restored turn-of-the-20th-century tavern with a 12-foot mahogany bar and a spectacular stained-glass domed ceiling.

The Gaslamp is a lively place—during baseball season, the streets flood with Padres fans, and festivals, such as Mardi Gras in February, ShamROCK on St. Patrick’s Day, and Monster Bash in October, keep the party atmosphere going throughout the year.

s Sights

Gaslamp Museum at the Davis-Horton House

HISTORIC SITE | The oldest wooden house in San Diego houses the Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation, the district’s curator. Before developer Alonzo Horton came to town, Davis, a prominent San Franciscan, had made an unsuccessful attempt to develop the waterfront area. In 1850 he had this prefab saltbox-style house, built in Maine, shipped around Cape Horn, and assembled in San Diego (it originally stood at State and Market streets). Ninety-minute walking tours ($20) of the historic district leave from the house on Thursday at 1 pm (summer only) and Saturday at 11 am (year-round). If you can’t time your visit with the tour, a self-guided tour map ($2) is available. dingbat 410 Island Ave., at 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/233–4692 dingbat www.gaslampfoundation.org dingbat $5 self-guided, $10 with audio tour dingbat Closed Mon.

r Restaurants

The historic heart of Downtown spread across 4th, 5th, and 6th avenues, the Gaslamp Quarter satisfies foodies, conventioneers, and night-clubbers with a wide choice of eateries and nightlife. Many are pricey, upscale chains and tourist-driven concepts, while others are stylish restaurants or casual gastropubs with local roots, featuring everything from sushi to authentic Mexican and aged steaks.

Trolley Dances s

During the fall in San Diego, the commuter experience comes alive with dance performances at select trolley stops. A partnership between the Jean Isaacs Dance Theater and the city’s Metropolitan Transit System, Trolley Dances (dingbat www.sandiegodancetheater.org/trolleydances.html) dancers give site-specific performances inspired by their environments, from historic Barrio Logan to the modern Downtown library. Get on the trolley for a tour ($40) to see the performances at each site.

Biga

$ | ITALIAN | An Italian food hall, bar, and café, this newly opened downtown eatery is an epicurean upgrade to lunchtime sandwich and pizza fare. The house-baked bread is some of the best in the city, and their pizza crust is the perfect balance of crisp and chewy. Known for: Calabrian BLT sandwich; warm octopus salad; Giulia pizza with prosciutto and fig. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 950 6th Ave., Suite C, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/794–0444 dingbat www.bigasandiego.com dingbat Closed Mon.

Breakfast Republic

$ | AMERICAN | Just because it’s the most important meal of the day doesn’t mean it can’t also be flashy or innovative. Breakfast Republic adds some hipster flair to typical brunch fare with a menu that combines hearty southern staples (grits, jambalaya), Mexican food (chilaquiles, breakfast burritos) and over-the-top treats such as Oreo pancakes and s’mores French toast. Known for: rich, gooey pancakes and French toast; kombucha flights; kitschy decor. dingbat Average main: $12 dingbat 707 G St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/501–8280 dingbat www.breakfastrepublic.com dingbat No dinner.

Havana 1920

$$ | CUBAN | A short walk up a flight of stairs transports diners into old Havana as Hemingway once knew it. True to its name, this still-young restaurant specializes in classic Cuban fare, such as empanadas, croquettes, and, of course, the Cubano sandwich. Known for: Cubano sandwich with fresh Cuban bread; strong yet refreshing daiquiris and mojitos; Latin jazz performers and salsa dancing. dingbat Average main: $20 dingbat 548 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/369–1920 dingbat www.havana1920.com.

Jsix

$$$ | AMERICAN | Distressed brick walls, rustic wood tables, and vintage waterfront photos suits the restaurant’s commitment to modern all-natural coastal cuisine with a Filipino twist. Locals, as well as guests at the adjacent boutique Hotel Solamar, savor menu items like shareable starters (lemon-tinged hummus or warm beet salad) and entrées that include Filpino standards like pancit noodles with vegetables; there are options like seared sea scallops or the J6 burger made with a top-secret grind as well. Known for: modern spin on Filipino food; open-air rooftop with skyline views; refreshing cocktails featuring ingredients like chamomile-infused gin and apricot liqueur. dingbat Average main: $30 dingbat 616 J St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/531–8744 dingbat www.jsixrestaurant.com dingbat No lunch.

Lionfish Modern Coastal Cuisine

$$$ | SEAFOOD | One of several options inside the recently opened Pendry Hotel, Lionfish is a showcase for chef Jojo Ruiz’s seafood-centric cuisine inside of a spacious, two-story room. The atmosphere is hip, yet aesthetically pleasing, though the menu itself is what’s worth returning for, from the butter-poached king-crab leg to the wild mushroom and potato gnocchi. Known for: fresh seafood, including oysters and crab; nigiri (special sushi rice treated with vinegar) flights; elegant yet unconventional craft cocktails. dingbat Average main: $35 dingbat 435 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/738–7200 Pendry Hotel dingbat www.lionfishsd.com.

Le Parfait Paris

$ | BAKERY | Two French transplants have brought sleek Parisian style to Downtown San Diego and rows of eclairs, tarts, croissants, colorful macarons, and the aroma of espresso greet patrons as they enter a minimalist space. For something more substantial, look to their menu of crepes, panini, salads, and quiches; caffeinated drinks range from teas and coffee to a sweet lavender honey latte. Known for: open until midnight on Friday and Saturday, offering a more low-key postdinner alternative in the neighborhood; extensive macaron selection; pillow-soft pastries and chocolate-filled breads. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 555 G St., Gaslamp dingbat 619/245–4457 dingbat leparfaitparis.com.

Searsucker

$$$ | AMERICAN | Since opened by celebrity chef Brian Malarkey a few years ago, this high-energy flagship restaurant has become the Gaslamp’s best for food and energetic atmosphere. Foodies from near and far savor the upscale down-home fare like small plates of biscuits with spicy honey, duck fat fries, and shrimp and grits. Known for: detailed, home-inspired decor; crispy duck fat fries; late-night menu on Friday and Saturday 11 pm–1 am. dingbat Average main: $30 dingbat 611 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/233–7327 dingbat www.searsucker.com.

Taka

$$ | JAPANESE | Pristine fish imported from around the world and presented creatively attracts crowds nightly to this intimate Gaslamp restaurant. Table service is available inside and outside where an omakase (tasting menu) or eight-piece rolls can be shared and savored; take a seat at the bar to watch one of the sushi chefs preparing appetizers. Known for: uni sushi topped with wasabi; omakase tasting menu; upscale sake offerings. dingbat Average main: $18 dingbat 555 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/338–0555 dingbat www.takasushi.com dingbat No lunch.

The Westgate Room

$$$ | FRENCH | Normandy-born chef Fabrice Hardel oversees the preparation of three meals a day at the Westgate Hotel, writing seasonal menus that mix French and Asian flavors. At dinner you’re likely to find specials like grilled salmon with spring onions and shiitake mushrooms, as well as classics like Dover sole meunière and steak frites. Known for: opulent Sunday brunch buffet is one of the best in town; regal, formal setting; French-inspired cuisine with California flavors. dingbat Average main: $29 dingbat Westgate Hotel, 1055 2nd Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 800/522–1564 dingbat www.westgatehotel.com.

h Hotels

Smack in the middle of Downtown is the Gaslamp Quarter where you’ll find nightlife options for every night of the week, ranging from gastropubs to clubs with celebrity DJs. For years, lodging options in this neighborhood were lacking in character, but the hotels themselves are becoming destinations in their own right, from the luxurious accommodations of the historic U.S. Grant to the EDM party scene at the Hard Rock or the stylish and trendy appeal of The Pendry, which opened in 2017. And though there are still a handful of budget hotels in the area, the Gaslamp is quickly becoming a go-to spot for glamorous accommodations.

dingbat Andaz San Diego

$$$$ | HOTEL | The lobby of the luxury, Hyatt-managed Andaz—with its dark, sexy vibe, tall columns wrapped in braided leather, buckets of chilled wine awaiting guests, and welcoming service—pretty much sums up the experience here: high-style stay without the attitude. Pros: luxurious rooms; romantic vibe; friendly service. Cons: noisy on weekends; not a good choice for families; small pool. dingbat Rooms from: $319 dingbat 600 F St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/849–1234 dingbat www.sandiego.andaz.hyatt.com dingbat 159 rooms dingbat No meals.

The Bristol

$$$ | HOTEL | Mod pop art inspired by artists such as Andy Warhol and Ed Ruscha sets the tone at this casual boutique hotel. Pros: modern rooms; centrally located; good value. Cons: no restaurant; somewhat seedy area; street noise. dingbat Rooms from: $234 dingbat 1055 1st Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/232–6141 dingbat www.thebristolsandiego.com dingbat 114 rooms dingbat No meals.

Courtyard Marriott Gaslamp Quarter

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This is not your typical Courtyard by Marriott as the building has a historic past—it was the home of San Diego Trust and Savings Bank in 1928. Pros: great rooftop bar The Nolen; can accommodate families; 24-hour market. Cons: a little far from convention center and Petco Park; expensive valet parking; rooms are a bit small. dingbat Rooms from: $229 dingbat 530 Broadway, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/446–3000 dingbat www.sandiegocy.com dingbat 245 rooms dingbat No meals.

Gaslamp Plaza Suites

$$ | HOTEL | One of San Diego’s first “skyscrapers,” this 11-story structure has a central location and a vintage feel. Pros: historic building; good location a block from Horton Plaza; well priced. Cons: books up early; small, dated rooms; no room service. dingbat Rooms from: $200 dingbat 520 E St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/232–9500 dingbat www.gaslampplaza.com dingbat 60 rooms dingbat Free breakfast.

dingbat Hard Rock Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | Self-billed as a hip playground for rock stars and people who want to party like them, the Hard Rock is near Petco Park overlooking glimmering San Diego Bay. The interior oozes laid-back sophistication, and guest rooms include branded Sleep Like a Rock beds and the option of renting a guitar. Pros: central location; energetic scene; luxurious rooms. Cons: pricey drinks; some attitude; party scene tends to be loud. dingbat Rooms from: $249 dingbat 207 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/702–3000, 866/751–7625 dingbat www.hardrockhotelsd.com dingbat 420 rooms dingbat No meals.

Hilton San Diego Bayfront

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This contemporary 30-story hotel overlooking San Diego Bay strives for a boutique feel. Pros: close to the convention center and Petco Park; allergy-friendly rooms available; excellent views. Cons: expensive valet parking; not as family-friendly as other area hotels; no fridge or minibar in the rooms. dingbat Rooms from: $214 dingbat 1 Park Blvd., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/564–3333 dingbat hilton-bayfront.thehotelsinsandiego.com dingbat 1190 rooms dingbat No meals.

Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter

$$$ | HOTEL | The moment you experience the cozy lounge spaces and wood accents of the Hilton’s modern and sophisticated lobby, you realize this isn’t your run-of-the-mill chain hotel—room perks include pillow-top mattresses, down comforters, and spacious work desks. Pros: nice decor; upscale lofts; near restaurants and shops. Cons: noisy area; pricey parking; Wi-Fi is free for Hilton’s Honors loyalty program members. dingbat Rooms from: $289 dingbat 401 K St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/231–4040, 800/445–8667 dingbat www3.hilton.com dingbat 273 rooms dingbat No meals.

Kimpton Hotel Palomar San Diego

$$$ | HOTEL | A few blocks from the heart of the Gaslamp Quarter, this swanky Kimpton hotel features luxurious guest rooms and a popular rooftop lounge. Pros: modern rooms; centrally located; complimentary evening wine hour. Cons: expensive parking; noisy part of town; most rooms’ views leave something to be desired. dingbat Rooms from: $239 dingbat 1047 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/515–3000 dingbat www.hotelpalomar-sandiego.com dingbat 211 rooms dingbat No meals.

dingbat Kimpton Hotel Solamar

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Best known for Upper East Bar, its poolside rooftop bar, and stylish lobby decor, Solamar’s guest rooms reflect this urban escape’s mixture of luxury and fun, with prints galore and subtle nods to San Diego’s happy beach culture. Pros: great restaurant; attentive service; upscale rooms. Cons: busy valet parking; daily facility fee; no coffeemaker or teakettle in rooms. dingbat Rooms from: $279 dingbat 435 6th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/819–9500, 877/230–0300 dingbat www.hotelsolamar.com dingbat 235 rooms dingbat No meals.

Omni San Diego Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | Business travelers who also want to catch a baseball game flock to this modern masterpiece that occupies the first 21 floors of a 32-story high-rise overlooking Petco Park. Pros: great views; good location; modern setting. Cons: busy; crowded during baseball season; pricey valet parking. dingbat Rooms from: $278 dingbat 675 L St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/231–6664, 800/843–6664 dingbat www.omnihotels.com dingbat 511 rooms dingbat No meals.

dingbat Pendry San Diego

$$$$ | HOTEL | Opened in early 2017, the Pendry San Diego is the Gaslamp’s newest stunner. Pros: well-situated in Gaslamp Quarter; excellent dining options; complimentary coffee in the mornings. Cons: pricey room rates; meals are expensive; not very family-friendly. dingbat Rooms from: $480 dingbat 550 J St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/738–7000 dingbat www.pendryhotels.com dingbat 317 rooms dingbat No meals.

San Diego Marriott Gaslamp Quarter

$$$ | HOTEL | The 22-story Marriott sits amid the Gaslamp’s restaurants and boutiques, near a trolley station, the convention center, and Petco Park. Pros: good views; modern decor; central location. Cons: rooftop bar can get rowdy; no pool; small rooms. dingbat Rooms from: $269 dingbat 660 K St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/696–0234 dingbat www.sandiegogaslamphotel.com dingbat 306 rooms dingbat No meals.

dingbat The Sofia Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | This stylish and centrally located boutique hotel may have small rooms, but it more than compensates with pampering extras like motion-sensor temperature controls, a Zen-like 24-hour yoga studio, an updated lobby, and a brand-new spa suite. Pros: upscale amenities; historic building; near shops and restaurants. Cons: busy area; small rooms; spotty Wi-Fi. dingbat Rooms from: $259 dingbat 150 W. Broadway, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/234–9200, 800/826–0009 dingbat www.thesofiahotel.com dingbat 211 rooms dingbat No meals.

dingbat The U.S. Grant, a Luxury Collection Hotel

$$$$ | HOTEL | The U.S. Grant may be more than a hundred years old (it first opened in 1910) but thanks to a top-to-bottom renovation in 2017, this grand old dame is now one of the most glamorous hotels in Southern California. Pros: sophisticated rooms; great location; near shopping and restaurants. Cons: street noise can be heard from the guest rooms; no in-room minibars or coffeemakers; surrounded by many major construction projects downtown. dingbat Rooms from: $304 dingbat 326 Broadway, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/232–3121, 800/325–3589 dingbat www.marriott.com dingbat 270 rooms dingbat No meals.

The Westgate Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | A modern high-rise near Horton Plaza hides San Diego’s most opulent old world–style hotel—the lobby is outfitted with bronze sculptures and Baccarat chandeliers—where staff greet guests with old-fashioned charm and politeness; other Downtown hotels have flashier amenities but you won’t find one with greater class. Pros: affordable luxury; serene rooftop pool deck; San Diego Trolley stops right outside the door. Cons: dated guest rooms; mandatory facility fee; next to courthouse. dingbat Rooms from: $299 dingbat 1055 2nd Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/238–1818, 800/522–1564 dingbat www.westgatehotel.com dingbat 223 rooms dingbat No meals.

n Nightlife

The Gaslamp Quarter is still one of the most popular areas to go for a night on the town. Named for actual gaslights that once provided illumination along its once-seedy streets (it housed a number of gambling halls and brothels), the neighborhood bears only a trace of its debauched roots. Partygoers line up behind velvet ropes to dance inside Downtown’s most exclusive clubs.

BARS

Altitude Sky Lounge

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | Location is everything at this sophisticated lounge on the roof of the 22-floor San Diego Marriott Gaslamp Quarter. The views of the Downtown skyline and Petco Park will give you a natural high. dingbat San Diego Marriott Gaslamp Quarter, 660 K St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/696–0234 dingbat www.sandiegogaslamphotel.com.

barleymash

BARS/PUBS | This gigantic space can resemble either a raucous club or a sports bar, depending on what night you’re there. But the drinks are strong and reasonably priced, and the reclaimed wood decor makes for an intimate atmosphere, even when the DJs are spinning mostly Top 40. dingbat 600 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/255–7373 dingbat www.barleymash.com.

Coin Op

BARS/PUBS | Step back into the ‘80s with this kitschy yet vibrant hybrid of bar and video arcade. The room is stocked with vintage arcade cabinet games like Galaga and Pac-Man, as well as Skee-Ball and other childhood favorites. Yet unlike those trips to the arcade, Coin Op features a rotating menu of craft cocktail creations, including punch bowls, to make those pinball tournaments even more spirited. dingbat TIP →Come on the first Sunday of the month for free games all day long. dingbat 789 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/546–6441 dingbat www.coinopgaslamp.com.

dingbat The Grant Grill

BARS/PUBS | Though the Grant Grill—located on the ground floor of the historic U.S. Grant Hotel—is a full-service restaurant, it’s built up a reputation in recent years for stepping up San Diego’s craft cocktail game. The cocktail menu is updated seasonally with fresh ingredients and themes (one recently featured a mini “Voodoo” doll frozen inside of a large ice cube), all of which are both innovative and palate pleasant. The atmosphere is comfortable and elegant, even on its busiest nights. dingbat U.S. Grant Hotel, 326 Broadway, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/744–2077 dingbat www.grantgrill.com.

Hard Rock Hotel

DANCE CLUBS | A-list wannabes (and a few real celebs) gather in two bars, the loungey 207 off the lobby and the rooftop Float. The latter’s Intervention and Wintervention daytime parties feature some of the world’s biggest DJ names, or if you prefer a rock show, head to Maryjane’s Underground at 207. Maybe you can’t be a rock star, but you might as well party like one. Just be prepared to spend like one, too. dingbat 207 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/702–3000 dingbat hardrockhotelsd.com.

The Nolen

BARS/PUBS | Panoramic views, warm and welcoming firepits, and beer-forward “hop-tails” (cocktails that have beer in them) are the attraction at this rooftop destination, situated atop the Courtyard by Marriott San Diego Gaslamp/Convention Center. dingbat 453 6th Ave., Downtown dingbat 619/796–6536 dingbat www.thenolenrooftop.com.

Prohibition

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | This underground jazz lounge lives up to its name with a slinky speakeasy style. Red lighting, dark wood, and leather tufted couches provide a cozy 1920s–’30s-inspired backdrop to the live jazz on weekends. dingbat 548 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/501–1919 dingbat prohibitionsd.com.

dingbat The Rooftop by STK

DANCE CLUBS | At this rooftop bar and lounge atop the Andaz hotel, a fashionable crowd sips cocktails poolside while gazing at gorgeous views of the city. Thursday through Saturday, the scene heats up with a DJ spinning dance music, while velvet ropes and VIP bottle service please the A-listers (like Prince Harry) in the crowd. dingbat Andaz San Diego, 600 F St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/814–2060 dingbat www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/california/andaz-san-diego/sanas/dining.

Upper East

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | The trendy poolside bar on the fourth floor of the swank Hotel Solamar is a sexy spot to people-watch while sipping sangria or chili-mango margaritas and noshing on snacks from the “Slow Food” menu. On cool evenings, reserve a cabana or warm up next to one of the roaring firepits. dingbat Hotel Solamar, 435 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/531–8744 dingbat www.hotelsolamar.com.

Volcano Rabbit

BARS/PUBS | Featuring Downtown’s largest selection of tequila, Volcano Rabbit has weekend DJs, a late-night menu, and the award-winning passionfruit margaritas that are made with a punchy puree and liqueur that brings out the fruit’s sweet-tart flavor. dingbat 527 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/232–8226 dingbat volcanorabbitsd.com.

COMEDY AND CABARET

American Comedy Co.

COMEDY CLUBS | At this underground space modeled after the legendary comedy clubs in New York, there’s not a bad seat in the house—which is especially great since the venue pulls in some of the hugest names in stand-up comedy. dingbat 818 6th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/795–3858 dingbat www.americancomedyco.com.

DANCE CLUBS

Bang Bang

DANCE CLUBS | Part sushi bar and part discotheque, Bang Bang offers both a good culinary game as well as a lineup of superstar DJs providing beats and breaks. It’s become famous for its bathroom decor, adorned with images of actor and heartthrob Ryan Gosling. dingbat 526 Market St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/677–2264 dingbat www.bangbangsd.com.

Fluxx

DANCE CLUBS | Arguably the hottest club in the Gaslamp, this Vegas-style, multitheme space is packed to the gills on weekends with pretty people dancing to house and electro music and dropping major cash at the bar. dingbat TIP →Get here early for a lower cover and to avoid the epic lines that snake around the block. dingbat 500 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/232–8100 dingbat www.fluxxsd.com.

Omnia

DANCE CLUBS | If the bright and flashy spectacle of Omnia feels a little bit more like Las Vegas than San Diego, it might be helpful to know that it actually has a Vegas counterpart. Top international EDM artists make stops here when they come to town, making it a necessary destination for BPM-seeking nightcrawlers. dingbat 454 6th Ave., Downtown dingbat 619/544–9500.

Oxford Social Club

DANCE CLUBS | A luxurious new downtown nightclub beneath the Pendry Hotel, Oxford Social Club has become one of San Diego’s trendiest new clubs, with a predictably ample-sized line outside on weekends. But once inside, the place is spacious and comfortable, with plush bench seating and strong cocktails, plus table reservations and bottle service for the high rollers. dingbat Pendry Hotel, 435 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/738–7040 dingbat www.theoxfordsd.com.

Sevilla

DANCE CLUBS | For more than two decades, Cafe Sevilla and the Sevilla nightclub have brought a Latin flavor to the Gaslamp Quarter through a mix of contemporary and traditional Spanish and Latin American music. Get fueled up at the tapas bar before venturing downstairs for dancing. Salsa lessons during the week provide an especially memorable experience. dingbat 353 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/245–1138 dingbat www.sandiego.sevillanightclub.com.

PIANO BARS

dingbat Westgate Hotel Plaza Bar

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | The old-money surroundings, including leather-upholstered seats, marble tabletops, and a grand piano, supply one of the most elegant and romantic settings for a drink in San Diego. dingbat 1055 2nd Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/238–1818 dingbat www.westgatehotel.com.

ROCK, POP, HIP-HOP, FOLK, AND BLUES CLUBS

House of Blues

MUSIC CLUBS | The local branch of the renowned music chain is decorated floor to ceiling with colorful folk art and features three different areas to hear music. There’s something going on here just about every night of the week, and the gospel brunch on select Sundays is one of the most praiseworthy events in town. Can we get a hallelujah? dingbat 1055 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/299–2583 dingbat www.houseofblues.com.

WINE BARS

dingbat Vin de Syrah

WINE BARS—NIGHTLIFE | This “spirit and wine cellar” sends you down a rabbit hole (or at least down some stairs) to a whimsical spot straight out of Alice in Wonderland. Behind a hidden door (look for a handle in the grass wall), you’ll find visual delights (grapevines suspended from the ceiling, vintage jars with flittering “fireflies,” cozy chairs nestled around a faux fireplace and pastoral vista) that rival the culinary ones—the wine list is approachable and the charcuterie boards are exquisitely curated. dingbat TIP →More than just a wine bar, the cocktails are also worth a try. dingbat 901 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/234–4166 dingbat www.syrahwineparlor.com.

p Performing Arts

DANCE

Whether you fancy rond de jambes or something a bit more modern, San Diego’s scene is en pointe for dance fans.

California Ballet Company

DANCE | The company performs high-quality contemporary and classical works September–May at the Civic Theatre. The Nutcracker is staged annually around the holiday season. dingbat San Diego Civic Theatre, 1100 3rd Ave., Gaslamp dingbat 858/560–5676 dingbat www.californiaballet.org.

City Ballet

DANCE | The ballet holds performances at the Spreckels Theatre and a few other area venues from November through May. At Christmastime, they dance a mean Nutcracker. dingbat Spreckels Theatre, 121 Broadway #600, Gaslamp dingbat 858/272–8663 dingbat www.cityballet.org.

MUSIC

Balboa Theatre

MUSIC | This renovated theater offers a variety of performances including ballet, music, plays, and even stand-up comedy. In addition to architectural splendor, the space offers unsurpassed acoustics. dingbat 868 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 800/854–2196 dingbat www.sandiegotheatres.org.

dingbat Copley Symphony Hall

MUSIC | The great acoustics here are surpassed only by the incredible Spanish baroque interior. Not just the home of the San Diego Symphony Orchestra, the renovated 2,200-seat 1920s-era theater has also hosted major stars like Elvis Costello, Leonard Cohen, and Sting. dingbat 750 B St., Gaslamp dingbat 619/235–0804 dingbat www.sandiegosymphony.org.

San Diego Opera

MUSIC | Drawing international performers, the opera’s season runs January–April. Past performances have included Die Fledermaus, Faust, Idomeneo, and La Bohème, plus solo concerts by such talents as Renée Fleming. dingbat Civic Theatre, 1100 3rd Ave., Gaslamp dingbat 619/533–7000 dingbat www.sdopera.com.

San Diego Symphony Orchestra

MUSIC | The orchestra’s events include classical concerts and summer and winter pops, nearly all of them at Copley Symphony Hall. The outdoor Summer Pops series is held on the Embarcadero, on North Harbor Drive beyond the convention center. dingbat Box office, 750 B St., Gaslamp dingbat 619/235–0804 dingbat www.sandiegosymphony.org.

Spreckels Theatre

THEATER | A landmark theater erected in 1912, the Spreckels hosts comedy, dance, theater, and concerts. Good acoustics and old-time elegance make this a favorite local venue. dingbat 121 Broadway, Suite 600, Gaslamp dingbat 619/235–9500 dingbat www.spreckels.net.

THEATER

Horton Grand Theatre

THEATER | After being home to the long-running Triple Espresso, the Horton Grand Theatre hosts productions from the likes of San Diego Musical Theatre as well as Intrepid Theatre Company, whose shows include Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? and Woody Guthrie’s American Song. dingbat Hahn Cosmopolitan Theatre, 444 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 858/560–5740.

San Diego Civic Theatre

THEATER | The home of the San Diego Opera, the Civic Theatre is the city’s largest performing arts venue, with musicals, theatrical productions, and concerts held throughout the year. dingbat 1100 3rd Ave., Gaslamp dingbat 619/570–1100 dingbat www.sandiegotheatres.org.

a Activities

BICYCLING

The Bike Revolution

BICYCLING | Choose from a wide array of rentals, from road bikes to cruisers, and embark on a ride along the Downtown waterfront, up the hill to Balboa Park, or hop on the ferry to Coronado Island for a leisurely ride around the idyllic island. dingbat 522 6th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/564–4843 dingbat www.thebikerevolution.com dingbat From $20.

b Shopping

The mix of retailers in the historic heart of San Diego changes frequently, but there are always boutiques in the Victorian buildings and renovated warehouses along 4th and 5th avenues. Also in the quarter are the usual mall stores and gift shops. Some stores close early, starting as early as 5 pm, and many are closed Sunday or Monday.

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Blends

SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | Minimalist decor provides a perfect backdrop for the wild colors and patterns featured on original sneakers from Adidas, Nike, Vans, and other in-demand brands. Prices are steep, but many of the urban styles are unique. dingbat 719 8th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/233–6126 dingbat blendsus.com.

Goorin Bros. Hats

JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Established in Pittsburgh in 1895, this company has helped make hats hip again with its stylish takes on fedoras, bowlers, and Panama hats. The San Diego location occupies the first floor of the historic Yuma building, a former brothel in the red light district. dingbat 631 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/450–6303 dingbat www.goorin.com.

FOOD AND WINE

Wine Bank

WINE/SPIRITS | This overwhelmingly stocked emporium with a large selection of wines also features a long list of other beverages, from rums and tequilas to mezcals and local craft beers. dingbat 363 Fifth Ave., #100, Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/234–7487 dingbat www.sdwinebank.com.

MUSIC STORES

FeeLit Records

MUSIC STORES | This all-vinyl record shop features a wide selection from curated new releases to budget used records, that cross a wide spectrum of genres: rock, pop, dance, punk, metal, R&B, and hip-hop. dingbat 909 E St., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 707/733–3548 dingbat www.feelitrecords.com.

SPECIALITY SHOPS

Magic Shop San Diego

SPECIALTY STORES | Like something out of a bygone era, this shop stocks an impressive amount of magic supplies, games, books, magazines, and other items for the beginner or professional prestidigitator. dingbat 827 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter dingbat 619/738–8350 dingbat www.magicshopsandiego.com.

Embarcadero

The Embarcadero cuts a scenic swath along the harborfront and connects today’s Downtown San Diego to its maritime routes. The bustle of Embarcadero comes less these days from the activities of fishing folk than from the throngs of tourists, but this waterfront walkway, stretching from the Convention Center to the Maritime Museum, remains the nautical soul of the city. There are several seafood restaurants here, as well as sea vessels of every variety—cruise ships, ferries, tour boats, and Navy destroyers.

On the north end of the Embarcadero at Ash Street you’ll find the Maritime Museum. South of it, the B Street Pier is used by ships from major cruise lines while tickets for harbor tours and whale-watching trips are sold at the foot of Broadway Pier. The terminal for the Coronado Ferry lies in between. Docked at the Navy Pier is the decommissioned USS Midway. At the foot of G Street, Tuna Harbor was once the hub of one of San Diego’s earliest and most successful industries, commercial tuna fishing. The pleasant Tuna Harbor Park offers a great view of boating on the bay and across to any aircraft carriers docked at the North Island naval base. A few blocks south, Embarcadero Marina Park North is an 8-acre extension into the harbor from the center of Seaport Village. It’s usually full of kite fliers, in-line skaters, and picnickers. Seasonal celebrations, including San Diego’s Parade of Lights, the Port of San Diego Big Balloon Parade and the Big Bay July 4 Celebration, are held here and at the similar Embarcadero Marina Park South. The San Diego Convention Center, on Harbor Drive between 1st and 6th avenues, is a waterfront landmark designed by Canadian architect Arthur Erickson. The backdrop of blue sky and sea complements the building’s nautical lines. The center often holds trade shows that are open to the public, and tours of the building are available.

A huge revitalization project is underway along the northern Embarcadero. The overhaul seeks to transform the area with large mixed-use development projects, inviting parks, walkways, and public art installations. The redevelopment will eventually head south along the waterfront, with plans underway for a major overhaul of the entire Central Embarcadero and Seaport Village.

s Sights

dingbat Maritime Museum

MARINA | FAMILY | From sailing ships to submarines, the Maritime Museum is a must for anyone with an interest in nautical history. This collection of restored and replica ships affords a fascinating glimpse of San Diego during its heyday as a commercial seaport. The jewel of the collection, the Star of India, was built in 1863 and made 21 trips around the world in the late 1800s. Saved from the scrap yard and painstakingly restored, the windjammer is the oldest active iron sailing ship in the world. The newly constructed San Salvador is a detailed historic replica of the original ship first sailed into San Diego Bay by explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo back in 1542. And, the popular HMS Surprise is a replica of an 18th-century British Royal Navy frigate. The museum’s headquarters are on the Berkeley, an 1898 steam-driven ferryboat, which served the Southern Pacific Railroad in San Francisco until 1958.

Numerous cruises of San Diego Bay are offered, including a daily 45-minute narrated tour aboard a 1914 pilot boat and 3-hour weekend sails aboard the topsail schooner the Californian, the state’s official tall ship, and 75-minute tours aboard a historic swift boat, which highlights the city’s military connection. Partnering with the museum, the renowned yacht America also offers sails on the bay, and whale-watching excursions are available in winter. dingbat 1492 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/234–9153 dingbat www.sdmaritime.org dingbat $18.

dingbat Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD)

MUSEUM | At the Downtown branch of the city’s contemporary art museum, explore the works of international and regional artists in a modern, urban space. The Jacobs Building—formerly the baggage building at the historic Santa Fe Depot—features large gallery spaces, high ceilings, and natural lighting, giving artists the flexibility to create large-scale installations. MCASD’s collection includes many Pop Art, minimalist, and conceptual works from the 1950s to the present. The museum showcases both established and emerging artists in temporary exhibitions, and has permanent, site-specific commissions by Jenny Holzer and Richard Serra. dingbat 1100 and 1001 Kettner Blvd., Downtown dingbat 858/454–3541 dingbat www.mcasd.org dingbat $10; free 3rd Thurs. of the month 5–7 dingbat Closed Wed.

dingbat The New Children’s Museum (NCM)

MUSEUM | FAMILY | The NCM blends contemporary art with unstructured play to create an environment that appeals to children as well as adults. The 50,000-square-foot structure was constructed from recycled building materials, operates on solar energy, and is convection-cooled by an elevator shaft. It also features a nutritious and eco-conscious café. Interactive exhibits include designated areas for toddlers and teens, as well as plenty of activities for the entire family. Several art workshops are offered each day, as well as hands-on studios where visitors are encouraged to create their own art. The studio projects change frequently and the entire museum changes exhibits every 18 to 24 months, so there is always something new to explore. The adjoining 1-acre park and playground is across from the convention center trolley stop. dingbat 200 W. Island Ave., Embarcadero dingbat 619/233–8792 dingbat www.thinkplaycreate.org dingbat $14 dingbat Closed Tues.

Seaport Village

PEDESTRIAN MALL | FAMILY | You’ll find some of the best views of the harbor at Seaport Village, three bustling shopping plazas designed to reflect the New England clapboard, and Spanish Mission architectural styles of early California. On a prime stretch of waterfront the dining, shopping, and entertainment complex connects the harbor with hotel towers and the convention center. Specialty shops offer everything from a kite store and swing emporium to a shop devoted to hot sauces. You can dine at snack bars and restaurants, many with harbor views.

Ferry to Coronado s

Coronado Ferry. Fifteen-minute ferries connect two locations along the Downtown San Diego waterfront with the Coronado Ferry Landing. Boats depart on the hour from the Broadway Pier on the Embarcadero and on the half hour from Coronado Ferry Landing to the Embarcadero during operating hours. Between the San Diego Convention Center and the Coronado Ferry Landing, service departs every 30 minutes during operating hours. Buy tickets at the Broadway Pier, 5th Avenue Landing, or Coronado Ferry Landing. To reach the heart of downtown Coronado from the Ferry Landing, you can rent a bike at the landing (or bring one with you), or catch the 904 shuttle bus that runs along Orange Avenue. Ferry service is operated by Flagship Cruises. dingbat Broadway Pier on the Embarcadero, 990 N. Harbor Dr., San Diego dingbat 619/234–4111, 800/442–7847 dingbat www.flagshipsd.com dingbat Ferry $4.75 one way.

Live music can be heard daily from noon to 4 at the main food court. Additional free concerts take place every Sunday from 1 to 4 at the East Plaza Gazebo. The Seaport Village Carousel (rides $3) has 54 animals, hand-carved and hand-painted by Charles Looff in 1895. Across the street, the Headquarters at Seaport Village converted the historic police headquarters into several trendsetting shops and restaurants. dingbat 849 W. Harbor Dr., Downtown dingbat 619/235–4014 office and events hotline dingbat www.seaportvillage.com.

dingbat USS Midway Museum

MILITARY SITE | FAMILY | After 47 years of worldwide service, the retired USS Midway began a new tour of duty on the south side of the Navy pier in 2004. Launched in 1945, the 1,001-foot-long ship was the largest in the world for the first 10 years of its existence. The most visible landmark on the north Embarcadero, it now serves as a floating interactive museum—an appropriate addition to the town that is home to one-third of the Pacific fleet and the birthplace of naval aviation. A free audio tour guides you through the massive ship while offering insight from former sailors. As you clamber through passageways and up and down ladder wells, you’ll get a feel for how the Midway’s 4,500 crew members lived and worked on this “city at sea.”

Though the entire tour is impressive, you’ll really be wowed when you step out onto the 4-acre flight deck—not only the best place to get an idea of the ship’s scale, but also one of the most interesting vantage points for bay and city skyline views. An F-14 Tomcat jet fighter is just one of many vintage aircraft on display. Free guided tours of the bridge and primary flight control, known as “the Island,” depart every 10 minutes from the flight deck. Many of the docents stationed throughout the ship served in the Navy, some even on the Midway, and they are eager to answer questions or share stories. The museum also offers multiple flight simulators for an additional fee, climb-aboard cockpits, and interactive exhibits focusing on naval aviation. There is a gift shop and a café with pleasant outdoor seating. This is a wildly popular stop, with most visits lasting several hours. dingbat Despite efforts to provide accessibility throughout the ship, some areas can only be reached via fairly steep steps; a video tour of these areas is available on the hangar deck. dingbat 910 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/544–9600 dingbat www.midway.org dingbat $21.

r Restaurants

This walkable Downtown bayfront strip between the iconic County Administration building and the convention center offers visitors access to historic maritime destinations and dining options served up with spectacular views.

Carnitas’ Snack Shack - Embarcadero

$ | AMERICAN | Indulge in some carnitas tacos, a BLT, or the “Triple Threat” pork sandwich at the Embarcadero outpost of this popular swine-heavy dining spot. Known for: the “Triple Threat” pork sandwich; amazing tacos. dingbat Average main: $9 dingbat 1004 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/616–7675 dingbat www.carnitassnackshack.com.

dingbat Eddie V’s Prime Seafood

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Don’t be put off by the name, or that it is part of a small chain. This fine-dining restaurant at the Headquarters at Seaport in Downtown has won a devoted following for classic seafood, casual but sophisticated settings, and nightly live jazz. Known for: wallet-friendly happy hour deals; indulgent truffled mac and cheese. dingbat Average main: $34 dingbat 789 W. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/615–0281 dingbat www.eddiev.com dingbat No lunch.

dingbat Puesto

$ | MEXICAN | Bold graffiti graphics, chandeliers with tangled telephone wires, and beat-heavy music energize this Downtown eatery that celebrates Mexican street food with a modern twist. Settle into one of the interior rooms or the sunny patio under orange umbrellas to sip margaritas and other specialty cocktails, Baja wines, or fruity aguas frescas made daily. Known for: taco trio plates; unique Parmesan guacamole; fruit-infused margaritas made in-house. dingbat Average main: $16 dingbat 789 W. Harbor Dr., Downtown dingbat 619/233–8880 dingbat www.eatpuesto.com.

Top of the Market

$$$ | SEAFOOD | With its bay views from Point Loma to the Coronado Bridge, this upscale seafood house is just right for a memorable evening. The romantic teak-paneled dining room and a deck that sits over the water are popular spots for visitor splurges and locals celebrating special occasions. Known for: romantic atmosphere; smoked fish appetizers. dingbat Average main: $35 dingbat 750 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/234–4687 dingbat www.sdtopofthemarket.com.

h Hotels

Embassy Suites by Hilton San Diego Bay Downtown

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The front door of each spacious, contemporary suite here opens out onto a 12-story atrium. Pros: harbor-facing rooms have spectacular views; spacious accommodations; good location. Cons: busy area; ho-hum decor; limited dining options. dingbat Rooms from: $269 dingbat 601 Pacific Hwy., Embarcadero dingbat 619/239–2400, 800/362–2779 dingbat www.sandiegobay.embassysuites.com dingbat 341 suites dingbat Free breakfast.

Manchester Grand Hyatt San Diego

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Primarily a draw for business travelers, this hotel between Seaport Village and the convention center also works well for leisure and family travelers. Pros: great views; conference facilities; good location; spacious rooms. Cons: lots of convention-goers; some trolley noise; not as stylish as many other downtown hotels. dingbat Rooms from: $259 dingbat 1 Market Pl., Embarcadero dingbat 619/232–1234, 800/233–1234 dingbat www.manchester.grand.hyatt.com dingbat 1628 rooms dingbat No meals.

n Nightlife

Scenic drinking spots and higher bar tabs overlook tall ships and naval history.

BARS

The Lion’s Share

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | Hemingway would have loved this exquisitely designed brick-and-wood bar that serves up equally exquisite craft cocktails that, while pricey, are definitely made for sipping. The place attracts a sophisticated crowd and is highly recommended for those looking to impress a special someone. dingbat 629 Kettner Blvd., Embarcadero dingbat 619/564–6924 dingbat lionssharesd.com.

Top of the Hyatt

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | This lounge at the Manchester Grand Hyatt crowns the tallest waterfront building in California, affording great views of San Diego Bay, including Coronado to the west, Mexico to the south, and Point Loma and La Jolla to the north. It’s pricey and pretentious (don’t you dare wear flip-flops), but this champagne-centric bar is great for catching a sunset or celebrating an anniversary. dingbat 1 Market Pl., Embarcadero dingbat 619/232–1234 dingbat topofthehyatt.com.

a Activities

BICYCLING

Wheel Fun Rentals

BICYCLING | Surreys, cruisers, mountain bikes, and tandems, among other two-, three-, and four-wheeled contraptions, are available at the Downtown Holiday Inn and a number of other locations around San Diego; call or visit the website for details. dingbat 1355 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/342–7244 dingbat www.wheelfunrentals.com dingbat From $32.

SAILING AND BOATING

Flagship Cruises & Events

BOATING | Get on board here for harbor tours, two-hour dinner and brunch cruises, and a ferry to Coronado. dingbat 990 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/234–4111, 800/442–7847 reservations dingbat www.flagshipsd.com dingbat From $27.

Hornblower Cruises and Events

BOATING | This outfit operates harbor cruises, sunset cocktail and dining cruises, whale-watching excursions, and yacht charters. dingbat 970 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/686–8700, 619/686–8715 ticket booth dingbat www.hornblower.com dingbat From $27.

WHALE-WATCHING CRUISES

Whale-watching season peaks in January and February, when thousands of gray whales migrate south to the warm weather, where they give birth to their calves. If you want a closer look, charter boats and cruises host whale-watching excursions.

Flagship Cruises & Events

WHALE-WATCHING | Join one of the twice-daily whale-watching trips during the season from December through April. Tours are led by naturalists from Birch Aquarium at Scripps. dingbat 990 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/234–4111, 800/442–7847 reservations dingbat www.flagshipsd.com dingbat From $43.

Hornblower Cruises and Events

WHALE-WATCHING | Yachts take passengers to catch a glimpse of gray whales and perhaps an occasional school of dolphins. Live narration is provided by experts from the San Diego Natural History Museum. dingbat 970 N. Harbor Dr., Embarcadero dingbat 619/686–8700, 619/686–8715 ticket booth dingbat www.hornblower.com dingbat From $48.

b Shopping

The new Headquarters at Seaport shopping district is breathing new life into the somewhat touristy San Diego waterfront. Spanning 14 acres and offering more than 50 shops and 17 restaurants, Seaport Village remains popular for souvenirs and entertainment.

SHOPPING CENTERS

dingbat The Headquarters at Seaport

OUTDOOR/FLEA/GREEN MARKETS | This new upscale shopping and dining center is in the city’s former police headquarters, a beautiful and historic Mission-style building featuring an open courtyard with fountains. Restaurants and shops, many locally owned, occupy former jail facilities and offices. Pop into Urban Beach House for coastal-inspired fashion from popular surf brands for men and women, including accessories and home decor. Swing by Madison San Diego for a great selection of leather goods and accessories, from apparel and handbags to belts and travel accessories. Dallmann Fine Chocolates sells truffles in flavors like bananas Foster and coconut curry. Venissimo Cheese dishes up the best cheese from around the world, from goat milk chevre filled with Italian truffle salt to French triple crème brie topped with tangy cranberries. Geppetto’s has been a San Diego staple for more than 40 years, offering classic toys and games that inspire creativity for the entire family. dingbat 789 W. Harbor Dr., Downtown dingbat 619/235–4013 dingbat theheadquarters.com.

Seaport Village

SHOPPING CENTERS/MALLS | If you’re looking for trinkets and souvenirs, this is the place. This complex of kitschy shops and waterfront restaurants has upped its hip factor with boutiques like San Pasqual wine bar; bamboo clothing–maker Cariloha; and Frost Me Gourmet Cupcakes, the bakery known for its win on Cupcake Wars Season 9. While there, keep an eye out for Urban Girl Accessories to find an eclectic mix of clothing and gifts from name brands and local artisans, and stop by Village Hat Shop to browse their collection of 50,000 fedoras, bowlers, cowboy, and custom embroidered hats. In addition to shopping, the village has views of the bay, fresh breezes, and great strolling paths. A hand-carved historic carousel and frequent public entertainment are among the attractions. Seaport Village is within walking distance of hotels, the San Diego Convention Center, and the San Diego Trolley. dingbat 849 W. Harbor Dr., at Pacific Hwy., Downtown dingbat 619/235–4014 dingbat www.seaportvillage.com/shopping.

East Village

The most ambitious of the Downtown projects is East Village, not far from the Gaslamp Quarter, and encompassing 130 blocks between the railroad tracks up to J Street, and from 6th Avenue east to around 10th Street. Sparking the rebirth of this former warehouse district was the 2004 construction of the San Diego Padres’ stunning 42,000-seat baseball stadium, Petco Park, where games are rarely rained out.

The Urban Art Trail has added pizzazz to drab city thoroughfares by transforming such things as trash cans and traffic controller boxes into works of art. As the city’s largest Downtown neighborhood, East Village is continually broadening its boundaries with its urban design of redbrick cafés, spacious galleries, rooftop bars, sleek hotels, and warehouse restaurants.

s Sights

Petco Park

SPORTS VENUE | FAMILY | Petco Park is home to the city’s major league baseball team, the San Diego Padres. The ballpark is strategically designed to give fans a view of San Diego Bay, the skyline, and Balboa Park. Reflecting San Diego’s beauty, the stadium is clad in sandstone from India to evoke the area’s cliffs and beaches; the 42,000 seats are dark blue, reminiscent of the ocean, and the exposed steel is painted white to reflect the sails of harbor boats on the bay. The family-friendly lawnlike berm, “Park at the Park,” is a popular and affordable place for fans to view the game. The ballpark underwent a huge effort to improve dining in the park, and local food vendors and craft breweries now dominate the dining options. Behind-the-scenes guided tours of Petco, including the press box and the dugout, are offered throughout the year. dingbat 100 Park Blvd., East Village dingbat 619/795–5011 tour hotline dingbat sandiego.padres.mlb.com dingbat $20 tour.

r Restaurants

Revived with the opening of the San Diego Padres stadium, Petco Park, this trendy high-rise residential area is an eclectic mix of hip gastropubs, wine bars, and cafés serving everything from French bistro fare to Baja-Mexican, burgers, and artisan-baked bread.

The Blind Burro

$$ | MODERN MEXICAN | FAMILY | East Village families, baseball fans heading to or from Petco Park, and happy-hour bound singles flock to this airy restaurant with Baja-inspired food and drink. Traditional margaritas get a fresh kick from fruit juices or jalapeño peppers; other libations include sangria and Mexican beers, all perfect pairings for house-made guacamole, ceviche, or salsas with chips. Known for: house margarita with fruit infusions; surf-and-turf Baja-style tacos; gluten-free menu. dingbat Average main: $18 dingbat 639 J St., East Village dingbat 619/795–7880 dingbat www.theblindburro.com.

Cowboy Star

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | Special-occasion diners, conventioneers on expense accounts, and meat-loving locals haunt this surprisingly intimate dining room for great beef expertly prepared. The wood-and-brick interior has leather accents, Western landscapes, and vintage Old West photos, and servers wear white shirts and stylish denim aprons, all creating a relaxed urban-cowboy ambience. Known for: on-site butcher shop selling premium steaks, sausages, and charcuterie; 35-day dry-aged beef. dingbat Average main: $53 dingbat 640 10th Ave., East Village dingbat 619/450–5880 dingbat www.cowboystarsd.com dingbat No lunch Sat.–Mon.

The Kebab Shop

$ | MEDITERRANEAN | At its five San Diego locations—East Village, Little Italy, Mira Mesa, Mission Valley, and Rancho Bernardo—this fast-food Mediterranean eatery offers a mix of slowly cooked rotisserie meats, grilled to-order seafood, and crispy falafel served on plates of saffron rice or wrapped in grilled flatbread. Fresh tabbouleh, 10 Mediterranean salads, and baklava desserts round out the meals. Known for: rotisserie meats including chicken, beef, and lamb; creamy garlic yogurt sauce. dingbat Average main: $8 dingbat 630 9th Ave., East Village dingbat 619/525–0055 dingbat www.thekebabshop.com.

Lola 55

$ | MEXICAN | This is the place for exceptional, elevated tacos that won’t break the bank. Don’t miss Happy Hour, Sunday–Friday from 2–6 pm, where margaritas and Modellos are $4. Known for: great cocktails; great tacos; gluten-free and vegan options. dingbat Average main: $5 dingbat 1290 F St., East Village dingbat lola55.com.

The Mission

$ | AMERICAN | Healthy, creative dishes and a friendly staff make this art-filled East Village café a local favorite for breakfast and lunch. Hungry San Diegans wait 30 minutes or more to enjoy fluffy scrambled eggs with chicken apple sausage or strawberry banana pancakes with a side of eggs and bacon. Known for: Mexican-influenced breakfast dishes like chilaquiles; French toast made with house-baked cinnamon bread; busy breakfast scene especially on weekends. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 1250 J St., East Village dingbat 619/232–7662 dingbat www.themissionsd.com dingbat No dinner.

Tajima

$ | JAPANESE | With four other locations in the city—Hillcrest, North Park, and two outposts in Kearny Mesa—Tajima has become a favorite source for ramen-hungry San Diegans. Climb into a cozy booth and order a Japanese craft beer or sake before diving into one of the five types of ramen—all of which come in hefty portions with affordable price tags—including an excellent vegan version with spinach noodles. Known for: spicy sesame ramen with spicy ground pork and fried garlic; affordable and hefty portions; karaage fried chicken. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 901 E St., East Village dingbat 619/431–5820 dingbat www.tajimasandiego.com.

Western Metal Supply s

Initially scheduled for demolition to make room for Petco Park, the historic Western Metal Supply Co. was instead incorporated into the ballpark and supports the left-field foul pole. Great care was taken to retain the historic nature of the building’s exterior despite extensive interior renovations. Built in 1909, the four-story structure originally manufactured wagon wheels and war supplies, and today holds the Padres’ Team Store, food and beverage outlets, and rooftop seating.

n Nightlife

East Village, just outside of the Gaslamp, is a little more cutting edge. This up-and-coming urban hood has upscale style mashed with hip, underground dives. Most of its destinations are within close quarters to Petco Park, so on game night, the neighborhood is particularly lively. Not that it’s quiet any other night; popular hangouts like East Village Tavern and Bowl, and Bar Basic are reliably crowded haunts, so show up early.

BARS

Bar Basic

BARS/PUBS | This spot is always bustling, in part because it’s the place to be seen for Padres fans or anyone else attending events at Petco Park. True to its name, Basic reliably dishes up simple pleasures: strong drinks and hot, coal-fired pizza. The garage-style doors roll up and keep the industrial-chic former warehouse ventilated during the balmy summer. dingbat 410 10th Ave., East Village dingbat 619/531–8869 dingbat www.barbasic.com.

East Village Tavern & Bowl

BARS/PUBS | Twelve bowling lanes means no more hauls to the suburbs to channel one’s inner Lebowski. Lane rental is pricey during prime times, but reasonable if you consider that some nearby clubs charge a Jackson just for admission, though reservations are definitely recommended. From the expansive bar area you can watch sports on 33 flat screens, and the satellite radio plays an assortment of alt- and classic rock. dingbat 930 Market St., East Village dingbat 619/677–2695 dingbat www.tavernbowl.com.

dingbat Fairweather

BARS/PUBS | Hidden in plain sight next to Petco Park, Fairweather is an urban tiki oasis with a top-notch cocktail menu that boasts classics like daiquiris and their signature frozen piña colada alongside modern interpretations of old-school tiki drinks like corpse revivers and mai tais. dingbat TIP →Come by during Comic-Con in July to view the parade of costumed characters while sipping rum refreshment on the balcony. dingbat 793 J St., 2nd fl., East Village dingbat 619/578–2392 dingbat www.fairweatherbar.com.

dingbat Noble Experiment

PIANO BARS/LOUNGES | There are a handful of speakeasy-style bars in San Diego, though none deliver so far above and beyond the novelty quite like this cozy-yet-swank cocktail lounge hidden in the back of a burger restaurant. Seek out the hidden door (hint: look for the stack of kegs), tuck into a plush leather booth next to the wall of golden skulls, and sip on the best craft cocktails in the city. dingbat TIP →Reservations are almost always a must, so be sure to call ahead. dingbat 777 G St., East Village dingbat 619/888–4713 dingbat nobleexperimentsd.com.

Punch Bowl Social

BARS/PUBS | Punch Bowl Social—which also has locations in Atlanta, Austin, and Denver—is essentially three different concepts all wrapped up in one wildly entertaining time. It’s a cocktail bar, boasting favorites including mules and daiquiris, along with modern twists and even spiked milkshakes. It’s also a diner, with fare that ranges from breakfast nachos to fried-chicken sandwiches. And most importantly, it’s a game room, complete with darts, pinball, and even a bowling alley. No matter what, though, get one of those milkshakes—they’re dangerously good. dingbat 1485 E St., East Village dingbat 619/452–3352 dingbat www.punchbowlsocial.com.

You & Yours

BARS/PUBS | A refreshing alternative to the sensory overload in some of the bars downtown, You & Yours is a local gin and vodka distillery that also serves up a number of excellent cocktails inside its tasting room. The atmosphere is modern, relaxed, and airy; the clientele low-key; and the gin itself is outstanding. dingbat 1495 G St., East Village dingbat 619/955–8755 dingbat www.youandyours.com.

Little Italy

Home to many in San Diego’s design community, Little Italy exudes a sense of urban cool. The main thoroughfare, India Street, is filled with lively cafés, chic shops, and many of the city’s trendiest restaurants. Little Italy is one of San Diego’s most walkable neighborhoods, and a great spot to wander. Art lovers can browse gallery showrooms, while shoppers adore the Fir Street cottages. The neighborhood bustles each Saturday during the wildly popular Mercato farmers’ market, and at special events throughout the year such as Artwalk in spring and FESTA! each fall. The website Little Italy San Diego (dingbat www.littleitalysd.com) has detailed info about neighborhood shops and events.

The neighborhood is also authentic to its roots and marked by old-country charms: church bells ring on the half hour, and Italians gather daily to play boccie in Amici Park. After an afternoon of gelati and espresso, you may just forget that you’re in Southern California.

s Sights

Little Italy Mercato

MARKET | Each Saturday tourists and residents alike flock to the Little Italy Mercato, one of the most popular farmers’ markets in San Diego. Over 150 vendors line Date Street selling everything from paintings and pottery, to flowers and farm-fresh eggs. Come hungry, as several booths and food trucks serve prepared foods. Alternatively, the neighborhood’s many cafés and restaurants are just steps away. The Mercato is a great opportunity to experience one of San Diego’s most exciting urban neighborhoods. dingbat Date and India Sts., Little Italy dingbat www.littleitalysd.com/events/mercato.

r Restaurants

One of San Diego’s oldest and liveliest neighborhoods steeped in the city’s Italian and Portuguese fishing culture, Little Italy is known for its bustling nightlife and Italian fine and casual dining mixed with trendy new eateries, dessert destinations, sidewalk cafés, and a few late-night bars.

Bencotto

$$ | ITALIAN | The ultramodern Italian eatery with young Milanese owners gets cheers for its design and cuisine from hip Little Italy residents and visitors alike. Diners linger over drinks and house-made pasta at the friendly long bar and more intimate upstairs dining room. Known for: mix-and-match pasta entrées; gluten-free pasta options; traditional Italian tiramisu. dingbat Average main: $24 dingbat 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy dingbat 619/450–4786 dingbat www.lovebencotto.com dingbat No lunch Mon.

San Diego’s Bounty s

Sunny San Diego is one of the premier agricultural areas in the country. Visit a farmers’ market and have a taste: spring is the season for cherimoyas and strawberries, summer brings peaches and boysenberries, autumn is the time for apples and pears, and winter is abundant with tangerines and grapefruit. There’s a different market every day of the week, including the popular Little Italy market. Check the list of farmers’ markets around the county at dingbat www.sdfarmbureau.org.

dingbat Born and Raised

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | The name is cheeky if a little morbid; the title refers to the restaurant’s speciality—steak. It’s a twist on a classic steak house, with a menu full of aged, prime cuts of beef served with a number of sauces, or perhaps try the tableside-prepared steak Diane with flambéed jus. Known for: tableside Caesar salad; aged New York steak; cheeky, glamorous decor. dingbat Average main: $45 dingbat 1909 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/202–4577 dingbat www.bornandraisedsteak.com.

Café Gratitude

$ | VEGETARIAN | Food is served with a side of spiritual enlightenment at this plant-based eatery where friendly, Zen-ed out servers help you navigate the lengthy menu after offering the thoughtful question of the day. All menu items—including the potent wellness shots that can detoxify livers and boost immunity—are named after positive affirmations. Known for: bowl entrées with rice or quinoa; wellness tonic drinks; desserts that taste equally delicious without any dairy. dingbat Average main: $16 dingbat 1980 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/736–5077 dingbat www.cafegratitude.com.

Cloak and Petal

$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | More than simply a sushi restaurant, Cloak and Petal offers up “Japanese tapas,” with a menu of small bites that range from fresh sashimi to wagyu beef lettuce cups. Even more stunning is the visual appeal, including a giant cherry blossom tree behind the bar. Known for: tiki drinks with Far East ingredients; unconventional sushi rolls; decor that’s a feast for the eyes. dingbat Average main: $21 dingbat 1953 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/501–5505 dingbat www.cloakandpetal.com.

dingbat The Crack Shack

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Next to his successful fine dining restaurant, Juniper and Ivy, celebrity chef Richard Blais has opened this more casual eatery complete with a walk-up counter, picnic-style tables, a boccie court, and a giant rooster—a nod to the egg- and chicken-themed menu. Ingredients are sourced from high-quality vendors and used for sandwiches, of which the fried chicken varieties shine, as well as salads and sides like fluffy minibiscuits with a miso-maple butter and a Mexican spin on poutine. Known for: Señor Croque fried chicken sandwich with smoked pork belly; biscuits with miso-maple butter; all-outdoor seating with boccie court. dingbat Average main: $12 dingbat 2266 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/795–3299 dingbat www.crackshack.com.

Craft & Commerce

$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | The redesigned Little Italy restaurant-bar oozes slightly surreal cool. Crammed book shelves line the walls, banquettes and mirrors are scrawled with sayings, and taxidermy appears in odd settings like a lion preying on a hog above the bar. Known for: wood-fired cuisine including grilled oysters and fire-roasted eggplant dip; refreshing craft cocktails infused with cucumber, grapefruit, or apple. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy dingbat 619/269–2202 dingbat www.craft-commerce.com.

dingbat Extraordinary Desserts

$ | CAFÉ | For Paris-perfect cakes and tarts embellished California-style with fresh flowers, head to this sleek, serene branch of Karen Krasne’s pastry shop and café. The space with soaring ceilings hosts breakfasts, lunches, and light dinners, accompanied by a wide selection of teas, coffee, organic wines, and craft beers. Known for: blueberry coffee cake for breakfast; chocolate dulce de leche cake; house-made dips including onion dip and Parmesan pesto. dingbat Average main: $14 dingbat 1430 Union St., Little Italy dingbat 619/294–7001 dingbat www.extraordinarydesserts.com.

dingbat Herb & Wood

$$ | AMERICAN | Design lovers will fall for celebrity chef Brian Malarkey’s sprawling restaurant, a former art store that has been refashioned into four luxe spaces in one—an entryway lounge, outdoor lounge, fireplace-dotted patio, and the main dining room, which is flanked by beaded chandeliers, lush banquettes, and paintings in rich jewel tones. The menu is heavy on wood-roasted dishes, many of which are apt for sharing like the roasted baby carrots or hiramasa with crispy quinoa. Known for: roasted baby carrots with cashew sesame dukkah; pillow-soft oxtail gnocchi; the secret menu Parker House rolls topped with Maldon sea salt. dingbat Average main: $20 dingbat 2210 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/955–8495 dingbat www.herbandwood.com dingbat No lunch.

Ironside Fish & Oyster

$$ | SEAFOOD | Hundreds of piranhas cover one wall of this soaring, nautically themed dining room dedicated to fresh seafood in all its guises. At the raw bar with its refrigerated metal top, a half dozen or more varieties of oysters are available for slurping, along with drinks from the booklet-size cocktail menu. Known for: $1 oysters during weekday happy hour; extensive cocktail menu; fresh whole fish with simple sides is a bargain at less than $25. dingbat Average main: $24 dingbat 1654 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/269–3033 dingbat www.ironsidefishandoyster.com.

Juniper and Ivy

$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Celebrity chef Richard Blais’s addition to San Diego’s restaurant scene fills an open-beamed space with seating for 250 and an open stainless-steel dream kitchen where diners can watch the chef and team in action. Blais sources local farm-fresh ingredients for his “left coast cookery” with a molecular gastronomy twist. Known for: California-Baja-inspired carne crudo asada topped with quail eggs; off-menu “In & Haute” burger; very shareable Yodel chocolate dessert. dingbat Average main: $35 dingbat 2228 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/269–9036 dingbat www.juniperandivy.com dingbat No lunch.

Little Italy Food Hall

$ | FUSION | FAMILY | A recently opened, chic update on the food court, Food Hall brings together a half-dozen different innovative food counters to offer quick bites vastly more interesting than mall fare. Among its offerings are the seafood-centric Single Fin Kitchen and Wicked Maine Lobster, and an update on a local delicacy, Not Not Tacos. Known for: fusion tacos; bustling crowds of Mercato shoppers; beer/wine cart dispensing refreshments in the outdoor seating area. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 550 W. Date St., Suite B, Little Italy dingbat 619/269–7187 dingbat www.littleitalyfoodhall.com.

dingbat Prep Kitchen Little Italy

$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Urbanites craving a hip casual setting and gourmet menu pack architectural salvage-styled Prep Kitchen Little Italy, tucked upstairs above a busy corner in this thriving neighborhood. With first-date cocktails, after-work brews, or birthday champagne, diners relish familiar choices like meatball sandwiches, chops, and pork belly with kimchi Brussels. Known for: weekend brunch featuring popular chilaquiles dish; bacon-wrapped dates; $6 tapas during the daily happy hour. dingbat Average main: $23 dingbat 1660 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/398–8383 dingbat www.prepkitchenlittleitaly.com.

Puerto La Boca

$$ | ARGENTINE | Located on the fringe of Little Italy’s bustling restaurant scene, this intimate Argentine steak house is named for a Buenos Aires waterfront neighborhood home to generations of Italian immigrants. The dimly lighted spot may not be as trendy as other dining spots here, but it’s still a romantic and comfortable destination for visitors and neighborhood regulars. Known for: tasty happy hour munchies; extensive wine list includes some delicious Malbecs from Mendoza; Argentinean-style steaks, including the signature skirt steak. dingbat Average main: $27 dingbat 2060 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/234–4900 dingbat www.puertolaboca.com.

h Hotels

Found Hotel

$ | B&B/INN | You’ll find more amenities at other Downtown hotels but it’s hard to beat this property’s value and charm. Pros: good location; historic property; welcoming staff. Cons: some shared baths; no parking; not great for couples or families. dingbat Rooms from: $139 dingbat 505 W. Grape St., Little Italy dingbat 619/230–1600, 800/518–9930 dingbat sandiego.foundhotels.com dingbat 23 rooms dingbat Free Breakfast.

Hilton Garden Inn/Homewood Suites

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Two brands from Hilton Hotels now share a building in Little Italy two blocks from the bay, giving guests more space to spread out and be relatively within budget. Pros: modern guest rooms; plenty of tech conveniences; quiet neighborhood at night. Cons: on a busy block; valet parking only; limited amenities. dingbat Rooms from: $235 dingbat 2137 Pacific Hwy., Little Italy dingbat 619/696–7000 Homewood Suites, 619/696–6300 Hilton Garden Inn dingbat www.sandiegohiltonhotels.com dingbat 364 rooms dingbat Free Breakfast.

Porto Vista Hotel

$ | HOTEL | This former budget motel has transformed into a contemporary hotel-motel with modern furnishings, a stylish restaurant and lounge, a fitness center, and even a hair salon. Pros: great location in Little Italy; complimentary airport shuttle; scenic views from restaurant. Cons: can be noisy; rooms need updating; limited amenities. dingbat Rooms from: $160 dingbat 1835 Columbia St., Little Italy dingbat 619/544–0164 dingbat www.portovistasd.com dingbat 191 rooms dingbat No meals.

n Nightlife

Amid its arty galleries and boutiques, Little Italy houses several popular open-air beer bars.

BARS

dingbat False Idol

BARS/PUBS | A walk-in refrigerator harbors the secret entrance to this tiki-themed speakeasy, which is attached to Craft & Commerce. Beneath fishing nets full of puffer-fish lights and elaborate tiki-head wall carvings, the knowledgeable staff serves up creative takes on tropical classics with the best selection of rums in town. dingbat TIP →The bar fills up quickly, especially on weekends. Make a reservation online a week or more in advance. dingbat 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy dingbat falseidoltiki.com.

The Waterfront Bar & Grill

BARS/PUBS | It isn’t really on the waterfront, but San Diego’s oldest bar was once the hangout of Italian fishermen. Most of the collars are now white, and patrons enjoy an excellent selection of beers, along with chili, burgers, fish-and-chips, and other great-tasting grub, including fish tacos. Get here early, as there’s almost always a crowd. dingbat 2044 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/232–9656 dingbat www.waterfrontbarandgrill.com.

BREWPUBS

dingbat Ballast Point Brewing Co.

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | Until recently, you had to head to the Miramar/Scripps Ranch area for a tasting at Ballast Point, but now there’s a local taproom in Little Italy. The Sculpin IPA is outstanding. dingbat 2215 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/255–7213 dingbat www.ballastpoint.com.

Karl Strauss’ Brewing Company

BARS/PUBS | San Diego’s first microbrewery now has multiple locations, but the original one remains a staple. This locale draws an after-work crowd for pints of Red Trolley Ale and later fills with beer connoisseurs from all walks of life to try Karl’s latest concoctions. The German-inspired pub food is above average. dingbat 1157 Columbia St., Little Italy dingbat 619/234–2739 dingbat www.karlstrauss.com.

MUSIC CLUB

dingbat The Casbah

MUSIC CLUBS | This small club near the airport, the unofficial headquarters of the city’s indie music scene, has a national reputation for showcasing up-and-coming acts of all genres. Nirvana, Smashing Pumpkins, and the White Stripes all played here on the way to stardom. dingbat 2501 Kettner Blvd., Middletown dingbat 619/232–4355 dingbat www.casbahmusic.com.

NIGHT BAY CRUISES

Flagship Cruises and Events

ENTERTAINMENT CRUISE | Flagship Cruises welcomes guests aboard with a glass of champagne as a prelude to nightly dinner-dance and holiday cruises. dingbat 990 N. Harbor Dr., Little Italy dingbat 619/234–4111 dingbat www.flagshipsd.com.

Hornblower Cruises

ENTERTAINMENT CRUISE | Take a dinner-dance cruise aboard the Lord Hornblower—the trip comes with fabulous views of the San Diego skyline. dingbat 970 N. Harbor Dr., Little Italy dingbat hornblower.com.

b Shopping

With more than 33,500 square feet of retail, Little Italy is the place to find contemporary art, modern furniture, and home accessories. It’s also an especially fun place to visit during holiday celebrations and special events like ArtWalk in April and Taste of Little Italy in June. The weekly Saturday farmers’ market is one of the city’s best, and brings people from all over the county to the neighborhood (dingbat www.sdweeklymarkets.com). Many shops have a strong European ambience, and shoppers will find enticing wares that include colorful ceramics, hand-blown glassware, modern home accents, and designer shoes. Kettner Boulevard and India Street north of Grape Street are considered the North Little Italy Art and Design District.

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Azzurra Capri

CLOTHING | Walking into this white shop with blue trim will transport you instantly to Italy’s stylish and sophisticated Amalfi Coast. Inspired by the island of Capri, this upscale boutique stocks swimsuits, resort wear, cashmere scarves, and handmade Italian leather sandals adorned with things like Swarovski crystals and turquoise. dingbat 1840 Colombia St., Little Italy dingbat 619/230–5116 dingbat azzurracapri.com.

Vocabulary Boutique

CLOTHING | A local favorite for its friendly vibe and stylish inventory, this cozy boutique often stars in regional fashion shoots. It’s known for unique, affordable outfits for women, men, and kids, as well as accessories, home decor, paper, and gift items. dingbat 414 W. Cedar St., Little Italy dingbat 619/203–4066 dingbat www.vocabularyboutique.com.

FOOD AND WINE

Bottlecraft Beer Shop

SPECIALTY STORES | This boutique beer shop and tasting room stocks the best craft beer from San Diego and around the world, from double IPAs and pale ales to saisons and wheat beers. Owner Brian Jensen offers a wealth of knowledge on the local craft beer scene. Bottlecraft now has additional locations in North Park and Liberty Station. dingbat 2252 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/487–9493 dingbat bottlecraftbeer.com.

HOME ACCESSORIES AND GIFTS

Architectural Salvage of San Diego

ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | If you have any interest in home design and renovation, this shop that specializes in reusing old materials should be top of your list. The warehouse space is filled with unusual building and decorative materials, as well as items that come from various time periods throughout the 1900s. Products range from stained-glass windows and light fixtures to cabinets and doors in styles ranging from Victorian to Craftsman. dingbat 2401 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy dingbat 619/696–1313 dingbat www.architecturalsalvagesd.com.

Blick Art Materials

BOOKS/STATIONERY | Besides supplying local artists with their tools, Blick also carries art books, fine stationery and pens, ornate gift wrap, and beautiful leather-bound journals. dingbat 1844 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/687–0050 dingbat www.dickblick.com.

Love & Aesthetics

HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Located inside one of the cozy yet stylish Fir Street Cottages, this boutique offers a variety of home goods that defy conservative decor aesthetics. From trendy Jonathan Adler furnishings to psychedelic pillows, plates, lamps, and even bespoke cannabis accessories (it’s legal in California), this is not your run-of-the-mill housewares emporium. dingbat 621 W. Fir St., Little Italy dingbat 619/546–6143 dingbat www.loveandaesthetics.com.

Vitreum

CERAMICS/GLASSWARE | The Japanese artist Takao owns this gallery-like shop that sells beautifully handcrafted home-decor items—tableware, glass vases, tea sets, and decorative gifts. dingbat 619 W. Fir St., Little Italy dingbat 619/237–9810 dingbat www.vitreum-us.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

The James Coffee Space

SHOPPING CENTERS/MALLS | This spacious warehouse building bears James Coffee’s logo on the front and the intoxicating scent of its pour-over brews inside, but the building houses considerably more than just the local coffee roaster. Its tenants include James At Home, which sells coffee home-brewing accessories and equipment; Specs Optometry; paper-goods vendor Card Shop SD; stylish men’s apparel in ZB Savoy; and natural bath products at Apothebeauty. dingbat 2355 India St., Little Italy dingbat 619/756–7770 dingbat www.jamescoffeeco.com.

Barrio Logan

San Diego’s Mexican-American community is centered in Barrio Logan, under the San Diego–Coronado Bay Bridge on the downtown side. Chicano Park, spread along National Avenue from Dewey to Crosby streets, is the barrio’s recreational hub. It’s worth taking a short detour to see the huge murals of Mexican history painted on the bridge supports at National Avenue and Dewey Street; they’re among the best examples of folk art in the city. Art enthusiasts will also enjoy the burgeoning gallery scene in the Barrio Logan neighborhood, rapidly becoming a hub for artists in San Diego.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Barrio Logan is located right off Interstate 5, at the Cesar E. Chavez Parkway exit. Driving is the easiest way to get there, especially coming from Downtown—in fact, it’s only a mile from Petco Park, and easily accessible via Imperial and Logan avenues. However, the Blue Line trolley also stops in Barrio Logan, and several bus lines also cross through the neighborhood, including the 9, 6, 20, 705, and 923.

When staying downtown, Barrio Logan is also just a 15-minute walk, but with its somewhat isolated location under a bridge, visitors should exercise caution visiting the Chicano Park murals after dark.

s Sights

dingbat Chicano Park

PUBLIC ART | FAMILY | The cultural center of the Barrio Logan neighborhood, Chicano Park—designated a National Historic Landmark in 2017—was born in 1970 from the activism of local residents who occupied the space after the state rescinded its promise to designate the land a park. Signed into law a year later, the park is now a protected area that brings together families and locals for both public and private events, a welcoming gathering space as well as an outdoor gallery featuring large murals documenting Mexican-American history and Chicano activism. Every year Chicano Park Day is held on April 21, filling the park with the sights and sounds of music, dancers, vintage cars, and food and clothing vendors. dingbat Logan Ave. and Cesar Chavez Pkwy., Barrio Logan dingbat chicano-park.com; www.chicanoparksandiego.com.

r Restaurants

Las Cuatros Milpas

$ | MEXICAN | One of the oldest restaurants in San Diego, having opened in 1933, Las Cuatros Milpas feels like a closely held secret in Barrio Logan. Open daily until 3 pm, it almost inevitably attracts a big lunchtime rush, though the wait is worth it for the homemade tortillas, beans with chorizo, and rolled tacos. Known for: homemade tortillas; checkered picnic tables; chorizo con huevos. dingbat Average main: $5 dingbat 1857 Logan Ave., Barrio Logan dingbat 619/234–4460 dingbat Closed Sun. dingbat No credit cards.

dingbat ¡Salud!

$ | MEXICAN | The line that inevitably wraps around the building is indicative of the quality of the tacos and the large selection of local craft beers on tap. Indeed, these are some of the best tacos in all of San Diego, ranging from the classic carne asada and Baja fish tacos to fried-shell beef tacos and Califas, which features french fries inside the tortilla. Just remember—alcohol isn’t allowed at the outdoor tables. Known for: Baja-style street tacos; Pruno de Piña (beer and fermented pineapple); churros and ice cream. dingbat Average main: $3 dingbat 2196 Logan Ave., Barrio Logan dingbat 619/255–3856 dingbat www.saludsd.com.

n Nightlife

Border X Brewing

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | Barrio Logan’s first local craft brewery, Border X has a tap list full of brews inspired by Mexican recipes such as the Jamaica-like Blood Saison (with Hibiscus) and Abuelita’s Chocolate Stout, featuring cocoa and cinnamon flavors. The taproom is lively most weekends, with sounds of cumbia music soundtracking the revelry. Border X also serves tacos, which always pair well with a refreshing lager. dingbat 2181 Logan Ave., Barrio Logan dingbat 619/501–0503 dingbat www.borderxbrewing.com.

p Performing Arts

Bread & Salt

ART GALLERIES—ARTS | The spacious factory setting that houses Bread & Salt feels like a modern art warehouse, though its name nods to its long history as a former Wonder Bread factory. Still adorned with much of the industrial machinery and exposed brick, Bread & Salt now houses rotating exhibits from local and national artists, as well as group events such as motorcycle shows and live music showcases. It’s also a partner with the La Jolla Athenaeum, and puts on jazz concerts throughout the year. dingbat 1955 Julian Ave., Barrio Logan dingbat 858/454–5872 dingbat www.breadandsaltsandiego.com.