NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

GREAT EXPERIENCES

The Hotel Del: As the grande dame of San Diego, the historic Hotel Del Coronado charms guests and visitors alike with her graceful architecture and oceanfront setting.

Sandy beaches: The long stretches of sand on Coronado are family-friendly.

Small town charm: Though just across the bay from San Diego, Coronado has the quaint charm of a more intimate seaside small town.

History: From the Hollywood history at the Del and Wizard of Oz creator L. Frank Baum to the island’s naval history, including an actual sunken ship, there’s a lot to discover in Coronado’s past.

QUICK BITES

Clayton’s Coffee Shop. A classic diner with bar-seating in a circle, Clayton’s is a great lunch or breakfast spot with a menu that ranges from classic American fare to Mexican-inspired dishes like their popular breakfast burrito. Just don’t forget dessert! Known for: bottomless coffee; breakfast burrito; gooey cinnamon roll sundae. 979 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–5425.

Mootime Creamery. For a deliciously sweet pick-me-up, check out the rich ice cream, frozen yogurt, and sorbet made fresh daily on the premises. Dessert nachos made from waffle-cone chips are an unusual addition to an extensive sundae menu. Just look for the statue of Elvis on the sidewalk in front. 1025 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–2422 www.mootime.com No credit cards.

Night & Day Cafe. Easy to spot from its red neon sign perched above the front door, Night & Day Cafe offers simple, hearty Mexican food with countertop service and ample portions. Known for: Coronado breakfast burrito (with hash browns inside); the iconic red sign; friendly service. 847 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–9776 www.coronadondcafe.com Closed Mon.

GETTING HERE

Coronado is accessible via the arching blue 2.2-mile-long San Diego–Coronado Bay Bridge, which offers breathtaking views of the harbor and downtown. Alternatively, pedestrians and bikes can reach Coronado via the popular ferry service. Bus 904 meets the ferry and travels as far as Silver Strand State Beach. Bus 901 runs daily between the Gaslamp Quarter and Coronado.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

A leisurely stroll through Coronado takes at least an hour, more if you stop to shop or walk along the family-friendly beaches. If you’re a history buff, you might want to visit on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday, when you can combine the tour of the historic homes that departs from the Glorietta Bay Inn at 11 am with a visit to the Coronado Museum of History and Art, open daily. Whenever you come, if you’re not staying overnight, remember to get back to the dock in time to catch the final ferry out at 9:30 (10:30 on weekends).

Although Coronado is actually an isthmus, easily reached from the mainland if you head north from Imperial Beach, it has always seemed like an island and is often referred to as such. Coronado has stately homes, sandy beaches, private marinas, and prominent military installations.

As if freeze-framed in the 1950s, Coronado’s quaint appeal is captured in its old-fashioned storefronts, well-manicured gardens, and charming Ferry Landing Marketplace. The streets of Coronado are wide, quiet, and friendly, and many of today’s residents live in grand Victorian homes handed down for generations. Naval Air Station North Island was established in 1911 on Coronado’s north end, across from Point Loma, and was the site of Charles Lindbergh’s departure on the transcontinental flight that preceded his famous solo flight across the Atlantic. Coronado’s long relationship with the U.S. Navy has made it an enclave for military personnel; it’s said to have more retired admirals per capita than anywhere else in the United States.

s Sights

Coronado Ferry Landing

STORE/MALL | FAMILY | This collection of shops at Ferry Landing is on a smaller scale than the Embarcadero’s Seaport Village, but you do get a great view of the Downtown San Diego skyline. The little bayside shops and restaurants resemble the gingerbread domes of the Hotel Del Coronado. 1201 1st St., at B Ave., Coronado www.coronadoferrylanding.com.

Coronado Museum of History and Art

HISTORIC SITE | The neoclassical First Bank of Commerce building, constructed in 1910, holds the headquarters and archives of the Coronado Historical Association, a museum, the Coronado Visitor Center, and the Coronado Museum Store. The museum’s collection celebrates Coronado’s history with photographs and displays of its formative events and major sights. A guided tour of the area’s architecturally and historically significant buildings departs from the museum lobby on Wednesday mornings at 10:30 and costs $15 (reservations required). Alternatively, pick up a self-guided tour in the museum’s shop. 1100 Orange Ave., at Park Pl., Coronado 619/435–7242, 619/437–8788 walking tour reservations www.coronadohistory.org Free.

Hotel Del Coronado

BEACH—SIGHT | The Del’s distinctive red-tile roofs and Victorian gingerbread architecture have served as a set for many movies, political meetings, and extravagant social happenings. It’s speculated that the Duke of Windsor may have first met the Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson here. Eleven presidents have been guests of the Del, and the film Some Like It Hot—starring Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon, and Tony Curtis—used the hotel as a backdrop.

The Hotel Del, as locals call it, was the brainchild of financiers Elisha Spurr Babcock Jr. and H. L. Story, who saw the potential of Coronado’s virgin beaches and its view of San Diego’s emerging harbor. It opened in 1888 and has been a National Historic Landmark since 1977. The History Gallery displays photos from the Del’s early days, and books elaborating on its history are sold, along with logo apparel and gifts, in the hotel’s 15-plus shops.

Although the pool area is reserved for hotel guests, several surrounding dining patios make great places to sit back and imagine the scene during the 1920s, when the hotel rocked with good times. Behind the pool area, an attractive shopping arcade features a classic candy shop as well as several fine clothing and accessories stores. A lavish Sunday brunch is served in the Crown Room. During the holidays, the hotel hosts Skating by the Sea, an outdoor beachfront ice-skating rink open to the public. TIP →Whether or not you’re staying at the Del, enjoy a drink at the Sun Deck Bar and Grill in order to gaze out over the ocean—it makes for a great escape.

Tours of the Del are $40 per person and take place daily at 10 am. Tours are free for children ages 5 and under. 1500 Orange Ave., at Glorietta Blvd., Coronado 619/435–6611 www.hoteldel.com.

Orange Avenue

NEIGHBORHOOD | Comprising Coronado’s business district and its village-like heart, this avenue is surely one of the most charming spots in Southern California. Slow-paced and very “local” (the city fights against chain stores), it’s a blast from the past, although entirely up to date in other respects. The military presence—Coronado is home to the U.S. Navy Sea, Air, and Land (SEAL) forces—is reflected in shops selling military gear and places like McP’s Irish Pub, at No. 1107. A family-friendly stop for a good, all-American meal, it’s the unofficial SEALs headquarters. Many clothing boutiques, home-furnishings stores, and upscale restaurants cater to visitors with deep pockets, but you can buy plumbing supplies, too, or get a genuine military haircut at Crown Barber Shop, at No. 947. If you need a break, stop for a latte at the sidewalk café of Bay Books, San Diego’s largest independent bookstore, at No. 1029. Orange Ave., near 9th St., Coronado.

Beaches

Coronado Beach

BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | This wide beach is one of San Diego’s most picturesque thanks to its soft white sand and sparkly blue water. The historic Hotel Del Coronado serves as a backdrop, and it’s perfect for sunbathing, people-watching, and Frisbee tossing. The beach has limited surf, but it’s great for bodyboarding and swimming. Exercisers might include Navy SEAL teams or other military units that conduct training runs on beaches in and around Coronado. There are picnic tables, grills, and popular fire rings, but don’t bring lacquered wood or pallets. Only natural wood is allowed for burning. There’s also a dog beach on the north end. There’s free parking along Ocean Boulevard, though it’s often hard to snag a space. Amenities: food and drink, lifeguards, showers, toilets. Best for: walking, swimming. Ocean Blvd., between S. O St. and Orange Ave., Coronado From the San Diego–Coronado bridge, turn left on Orange Ave. and follow signs.

Silver Strand State Beach

BEACH—SIGHT | FAMILY | This quiet beach on a narrow sand-spit allows visitors a unique opportunity to experience both the Pacific Ocean and the San Diego Bay. The 2½ miles of ocean side is great for surfing and other water sports while the bay side, accessible via foot tunnel under Highway 75, has calmer, warmer water and great views of the San Diego skyline. Lifeguards and rangers are on duty year-round, and there are places for biking, volleyball, and fishing. Picnic tables, grills, and firepits are available in summer, and the Silver Strand Beach Cafe is open Memorial Day through Labor Day. The beach is close to Loews Coronado Bay Resort and the Coronado Cays, an exclusive community popular with yacht owners. You can reserve RV sites ($65 beach; $50 inland) online (www.reserveamerica.com). Three day-use parking lots provide room for 800 cars. Amenities: food and drink, lifeguards, parking (fee), showers, toilets. Best for: walking, swimming, surfing. 5000 Hwy. 75, Coronado 4½ miles south of city of Coronado 619/435–5184 www.parks.ca.gov/silverstrand Parking $10, motor home $30.

r Restaurants

The home of charming, but pricey, vintage houses, the famous Hotel Del Coronado, and historic North Island Naval Station offers visitors a great variety of tourist-oriented bars and eateries—a few of them very good. While most of the dining options are recommended for the view (it’s hard to beat), there are a number of excellent restaurants that range from family-friendly and casual to glamorous and upscale.

Cafe 1134

$ | CAFÉ | Locals flock to this hip mini-bistro to start the day with flavorful omelettes or fresh pastries and coffee. Lunch and dinner patrons enjoy a variety of classic deli sandwiches and salads in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Known for: hearty breakfast; fresh sandwiches and salads for lunch; friendly service. Average main: $5 1134 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/437–1134 www.cafe1134.net No credit cards.

Chez Loma

$$ | FRENCH | French meets Southern Californian cuisine at this charming historic Victorian home in the heart of Coronado. A favorite of locals and guests at nearby Hotel Del Coronado, the romantic bistro offers French favorites like boeuf bourguignonne and moules marinière as well as California standbys like rockfish ceviche in tomatillo sauce. Known for: eclectic Sunday brunch; solid dessert selection; romantic atmosphere. Average main: $25 1132 Loma Ave., Coronado 619/435–0661 No lunch.

Coronado Brewing Company

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Perfect for beer lovers with kids, this popular, laid-back Coronado brewpub offers a menu that features large portions of basic bar food like burgers, sandwiches, pizza, and salads. Enjoy a brew at a pair of sidewalk terraces or belly up to the bar and a new batch being made such as the Islander Pale Ale (IPA) or Mermaid’s Red Ale. Known for: a good selection of house-crafted beers; kids’ menu; more strollers than bar stools. Average main: $12 170 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/437–4452 www.coronadobrewing.com.

Sheerwater

$$$ | AMERICAN | The menu at this casual but pricey all-day dining room offers a local take on all-American fare that’s split between meat and seafood entrées. A spacious, breeze-swept terrace offers extraordinary ocean views, while the indoor room can be on the noisy side, especially when families are present. Known for: all-day dining; primary restaurant at Hotel Del Coronado; standard kids’ menu options. Average main: $28 Hotel Del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/522–8490 www.hoteldel.com.

Stake Chophouse

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | A recent addition to the Orange Avenue dining scene, this chophouse is a more modern alternative to the vintage steak house. Stake features high-quality cuts of beef along with fresh seafood, oysters, hand-cut fries, and an award-winning wine list. Known for: Australian Wagyu rib eye; extensive wine offerings; the “Baked California” dessert. Average main: $42 1309 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/522–0077 www.stakechophouse.com.

Tartine

$ | FRENCH | FAMILY | Dine any time of day at this French-inspired café a block from San Diego Bay, as breakfast commences at 6 am with house-made granola, quiche, and just-baked coffee cakes and croissants. Sandwiches, salads, and soups round out the daytime menu, while dinner highlights include the catch of the day; just be sure be sure to save room for the Paris-pretty desserts. Known for: Coronado’s best bet for casual but satisfying fare; in-house pastries and desserts; quiche any time of the day. Average main: $15 1106 1st St., Coronado 619/435–4323 www.tartinecoronado.com.

h Hotels

Occupying its own strip of land across the bay from San Diego, Coronado doesn’t boast the overwhelming number of hotels as its neighboring city, but most of the properties on the island offer luxurious accommodations. None more so than the iconic Hotel del Coronado, a historic beachside hotel with more than 100 years of history that attracts a large number of tourists, if only sometimes for a beachside drink. At Loews Coronado, visitors can expect more modern upscale accommodations, while the 1906 Lodge offers more of an intimate, yet very comfortable, bed-and-breakfast-type stay.

Coronado Island Marriott Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Near San Diego Bay, this snazzy hotel has rooms with great Downtown skyline views. Pros: spectacular views; on-site spa; close to water taxis. Cons: not in downtown Coronado; resort fee; expensive self-parking. Rooms from: $329 2000 2nd St., Coronado 619/435–3000 www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sanci-coronado-island-marriott-resort-and-spa 300 rooms No meals.

Glorietta Bay Inn

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The main building on this property is an Edwardian-style mansion built in 1908 for sugar baron John D. Spreckels, who once owned much of Downtown San Diego. Pros: great views; friendly staff; close to beach. Cons: mansion rooms are small; lots of traffic nearby; due for a renovation. Rooms from: $179 1630 Glorietta Blvd., Coronado 619/435–3101, 800/283–9383 www.gloriettabayinn.com 100 rooms Free Breakfast.

Hotel Del Coronado

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | As much of a draw today as it was when it opened in 1888, the Victorian-style “Hotel Del” is always alive with activity, as guests—including U.S. presidents and celebrities—and tourists marvel at the fanciful architecture and ocean views. Pros: 17 on-site shops; on the beach; well-rounded spa. Cons: some rooms are small; expensive dining; hectic public areas. Rooms from: $425 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado 800/468–3533, 619/435–6611 www.hoteldel.com 757 rooms No meals.

Loews Coronado Bay Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | You can park your boat at the 80-slip marina of this romantic retreat set on a secluded 15-acre peninsula on the Silver Strand. Pros: great restaurants; lots of activities; all rooms have furnished balconies with water views. Cons: far from anything; confusing layout; not ideal for couples. Rooms from: $349 4000 Coronado Bay Rd., Coronado 619/424–4000, 800/815–6397 www.loewshotels.com/coronado-bay-resort 439 rooms No meals.

1906 Lodge at Coronado Beach

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Smaller but no less luxurious than the sprawling beach resorts of Coronado, this lodge—whose name alludes to the main building’s former life as a boardinghouse built in 1906—welcomes couples for romantic retreats two blocks from the ocean. Pros: most suites feature Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces, and porches; historic property; free underground parking. Cons: too quiet for families; no pool; limited on-site dining options. Rooms from: $329 1060 Adella Ave., Coronado 619/437–1900, 866/435–1906 www.1906lodge.com 17 rooms Free Breakfast.

p Performing Arts

Coronado Playhouse

THEATER | This cabaret-type theater near the Hotel Del Coronado stages regular dramatic and musical performances. 1835 Strand Way, Coronado 619/435–4856 www.coronadoplayhouse.com.

Lamb’s Players Theatre

THEATER | The theater’s regular season of five mostly uplifting productions runs from February through November. It also stages an original musical, Festival of Christmas, in December. The company has two performance spaces: the one used for most productions in Coronado, and the Horton Grand Theatre in the Gaslamp Quarter. 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/437–6000 www.lambsplayers.org.

a Activities

BICYCLING

Holland’s Bicycles

BICYCLING | This is a great bike rental source on Coronado Island, so you can ride the Silver Strand Bike Path on an electric bike, beach cruiser, road bike, or tandem. 977 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–3153 www.hollandsbicycles.com From $25.

GOLF

Coronado Municipal Golf Course

GOLF | Spectacular views of Downtown San Diego and the Coronado Bridge as well as affordable prices make this public course one of the busiest in the world. Bordered by the bay, the trick is to keep your ball out of the water. Wind can add some difficulty, but otherwise this is a leisurely course and a good one to walk. It’s difficult to get on unless you reserve a tee time 3 to 14 days in advance. The course’s Bayside Grill restaurant is well-known for its Thursday and Sunday night prime rib dinner. Reservations are recommended. 2000 Visalia Row, Coronado 619/522–6590 www.golfcoronado.com $37 weekdays, $42 weekends 18 holes, 6590 yards, par 72.

JET SKIING

Seaforth Boat Rentals

JET SKIING | You can rent Yamaha WaveRunners and explore San Diego Bay or Mission Bay from Seaforth Boat Rentals’ four different San Diego locations. On most Fridays and weekends you can join a two-hour WaveRunner tour of La Jolla’s coast, departing from the Mission Bay location (April–September only). 1715 Strand Way, Coronado 888/834–2628 www.seaforthboatrental.com From $99.

KAYAKING

Bike & Kayak Tours

KAYAKING | While La Jolla’s outpost of Bike & Kayak Tours offers a Leopard Shark Encounter snorkeling tour ($39 per person), where adventuresome travelers can see the shy spotted creatures up close, the Coronado location has you embarking on a kayak tour ($49 per person) underneath the Coronado Bridge at dusk to enjoy incredible views of Downtown San Diego. The Coronado branch also offers stand-up paddleboards for as little as $29 per person. 1201 1st St., #215, Coronado 858/454–1010 www.bikeandkayaktours.com From $39.

SAILING AND BOATING BOAT CHARTERS

California Cruisin’

BOATING | Contact California Cruisin’ for sailboat or powerboat charter excursions and dinner cruises. The company also provides dockside accommodations aboard a private luxury yacht or houseboat on San Diego Bay. 1450 Harbor Island Dr., Harbor Island 619/296–8000 www.californiacruisin.com From $350.

The Gondola Company

BOATING | You don’t have to travel to Venice to be serenaded by a gondolier. This company features authentic Venetian gondola rides that depart daily from the picturesque Coronado Cays. 503 Grand Caribe Causeway,, Suite C, Coronado 619/429–6317 www.gondolacompany.com From $95 for 2 people.

BOAT RENTALS

Seaforth Boat Rentals

BOATING | You can book charter tours and rent kayaks, Jet Skis, fishing skiffs, powerboats and sailboats at Seaforth’s five locations around town. The outfitter also can hook you up with a skipper for a deep-sea fishing trip. Seaforth also rents paddleboards at their Mission Bay and Coronado locations. 1715 Strand Way, Coronado 888/834–2628 www.seaforthboatrental.com From $25.

b Shopping

Coronado’s resort hotels attract tourists in droves, but somehow the town has managed to avoid being overtaken by chain stores. Instead, shoppers can browse through family-owned shops, dine at sidewalk cafés along Orange Avenue, stroll through the historic Hotel del Coronado, and take in the specialty shops at Coronado Ferry Landing. Friendly shopkeepers make the boutiques lining Orange Avenue, Coronado’s main drag, a good place to browse for clothes, home decor, gift items, and gourmet foods.

BOOKS

Bay Books

BOOKS/STATIONERY | FAMILY | This independent bookstore is the spot to sit, read, and sip coffee on an overcast day by the sea. Great for international travelers, there’s a large selection of foreign-language magazines and newspapers, and for youngsters, there’s a section in the back devoted to children’s books and games. Because of its close proximity to the Navy bases on Coronado, the shop has a large stock of books dedicated to military history. Bay Books also has regular book-signing events; it has hosted a wide array of authors, from Newt Gingrich to Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger. 1029 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–0070 www.baybookscoronado.com.

FOOD AND WINE

Coronado Taste of Oils

FOOD/CANDY | The walls are lined, front-to-back, with countless flavors of olive oils and balsamic vinegars, from more standard fare to creative infusions. Some of the varied choices include lemon and lime, chilies, currants, garlic, harissa (hot chili pepper paste), chipotle, and herbs de Provence, all of which are available to sample with bread inside the shop. 954 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/522–0098 www.tasteofoils.com.

Wine A Bit

FOOD/CANDY | Part store and part wine bar, the popular Wine A Bit carries hundreds of boutique wines, along with craft beers, appetizers, and decadent desserts. Cigars, gifts, and wine-related accessories are also for sale. 928 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/365–4953 www.wineabitcoronado.com.

HOME ACCESSORIES AND GIFTS

Celtic Corner Scottish Treasures

GIFTS/SOUVENIRS | Get in touch with your Celtic roots with imported apparel, gifts, tableware, and jewelry from Ireland, Scotland, England, and Wales. You can rent or order a custom-made kilt. 916 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–1880 www.celticcorner.net.

Seaside Papery

BOOKS/STATIONERY | Customize your correspondence with products from Seaside Papery, including high-end wedding invitations, greeting cards, luxury personal stationery, and wrapping papers. 1162 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–5565 www.seasidepapery.com.

JEWELRY

D Forsythe Jewelry

JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Stepping into D Forsythe is like taking a quick spin around the world. The one-of-a-kind jewelry sold here features sapphires, emeralds, moonstones, and baroque pearls from such faraway places as Denmark, Cambodia, Turkey, Bali, India, England, and Thailand. 1136 Loma Ave., Coronado 619/435–9211 www.dforsythe.com Closed Sun. and Mon.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Coronado Ferry Landing

SHOPPING CENTERS/MALLS | A staggering view of San Diego’s Downtown skyline across the bay and a dozen boutiques make this a delightful place to shop while waiting for a ferry. La Camisa (619/435–8009) is a fun place to pick up kitschy souvenirs, T-shirts, fleece jackets, and postcards. The French Room (619/889–4325) specializes in comfy women’s shoes and affordable casual wear. House of Soles & Shades (619/437–0546) sells sandals and designer eyewear. There’s a farmers’ market every Tuesday 2:30–6, and some restaurants offer a daily late-afternoon happy hour. 1201 1st St., Coronado 619/435–8895 www.coronadoferrylanding.com.

Hotel Del Coronado

SHOPPING CENTERS/MALLS | At the gift shops within the peninsula’s main historic attraction, you can purchase sportswear, designer handbags, jewelry, and antiques. Babcock & Story Emporium carries an amazing selection of home decor items, garden accessories, and classy gifts. Blue Octopus is a children’s store featuring creative toys, gifts, and apparel. Spreckels Sweets & Treats offers old-time candies, freshly made fudge, and decadent truffles. Kate’s has designer fashions and accessories, while Brady’s for Men, with its shirts and sport coats, caters to well-dressed men. Crown Jewels Coronado features fine jewelry, some inspired by the sea. 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado 619/435–6611 www.hoteldel.com/coronado-shopping.