This nubby-textured dressing/sauce is modeled after Japanese gomae, which translates as “sesame sauce”—a preparation that’s used to dress various vegetables, most commonly spinach. When shopping, look for unhulled sesame seeds, which are a bit larger and plumper than tiny, flat, hulled sesame seeds and have more flavor intensity. Unhulled sesame seeds are often found in the bulk section of natural foods stores, and Asian markets are likely to sell toasted unhulled sesame in flip-top plastic shakers. These toasted seeds simplify prep because they can be used straight from the container. But if you suspect the store’s turnover to be slow, we say take a pass and toast your own. If only hulled sesame seeds are available, stir 1/4 tsp toasted sesame oil into the dressing.
MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP [120 ML]
6 Tbsp [60 g] unhulled sesame seeds
21/2 Tbsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp light agave nectar
1 Tbsp mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
2 tsp sake
1 tsp rice vinegar
1/4 tsp freshly ground white pepper
In a medium skillet over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirring frequently, until fragrant and golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely.
In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, agave nectar, mirin, sake, rice vinegar, and pepper. Set aside.
Transfer the sesame seeds to a spice grinder or the beaker of an immersion blender. Pulse until the seeds are finely ground and powdery, but not pasty; do not overprocess.
Add the ground sesame to the soy sauce mixture and whisk to combine before using; the dressing will be rather thick. (If the dressing is thicker than you like, whisk in 1 to 2 tsp water to thin it.)