This dressing packs a big, twofold punch because there’s no mayo or sour cream interfering with the deliciously funky blue cheese, and a generous dose of black pepper plays up the blue’s piquancy. Choose a blue cheese with an assertive flavor and a firm yet creamy texture—Roquefort, for example. Gorgonzola dolce would be too mild and soft, and Cabrales would be too strong and dry.
MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP [120 ML]
6 Tbsp [55 g] blue cheese, crumbled, at room temperature
1/3 cup [80 ml] buttermilk, at room temperature, plus up to 1 Tbsp
1 small garlic clove, germ removed (see page 13), grated or minced to a paste
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp sugar
1 Tbsp minced fresh chives
11/4 tsp white wine vinegar, plus more as needed
Kosher salt (optional)
In a medium bowl, combine the blue cheese, buttermilk, garlic, pepper, and sugar. Use a rubber spatula or dinner fork to mash the mixture until it’s smooth and uniform, with only a few tiny lumps. Stir in the chives and vinegar. Let stand to allow the flavors to meld, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary, and additional vinegar, and adjust the consistency with up to 1 Tbsp buttermilk, if necessary. Briskly stir to recombine just before using.