a lenten spinach pie

torta d’herbe da quaresima

Take washed spinach and put it in a pot and throw in 4 ounces of oil and sauté it well and chop it and put it in a pot with 4 ounces of sugar and 1 ounce of cinnamon and a quarter of pepper and 6 ounces of raisins and 1 pound of figs, cut thin, and half a pound of sultanas and shelled and peeled walnuts and mix everything together well . . . And then you will prepare your case and you will cook following the order of the other Lenten pie.’ (Cristoforo di Messisbugo)

Serves 6

For the pastry

45 g (1 1/2 oz) caster sugar

1/4 tsp powdered saffron or 10 saffron strands

250 g (9 oz) Italian 00 flour

1/2 tsp sea salt

120 g (4 oz) unsalted butter

2 free-range egg yolks

1 1/2 tsp rosewater

For the filling

30 g (1 oz) raisins

30 g (1 oz) sultanas

1.35 kg (3 lb) fresh bunch spinach, or 700 g (1 1/2 lb) cooked, or frozen spinach

sea salt and pepper

4 tbsp olive oil

30 g (1 oz) walnut kernels

3 dried figs

1 tbsp sugar

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

60 g (2 oz) grated Parmesan

1 tbsp dried breadcrumbs

For the glazing

1 free-range egg yolk

1 tbsp milk

pinch of sea salt

First make the pastry the way you usually do, by hand or in the food processor. Pound the sugar and saffron together and mix well into the flour and salt before rubbing in the butter. Mix in the egg yolks and the rosewater. When the dough is ready, wrap it in clingfilm and chill for at least 30 minutes. Soak the raisins and sultanas in a cupful of hot water for 15 minutes or so. Drain and dry thoroughly.

Trim, wash and cook the spinach without putting any water in the pan. The water that clings to the leaves is enough. Add 1 teaspoon of salt. When the spinach is tender, drain, and as soon as it is cool enough squeeze well between your hands. Sauté it gently in the oil for 10 minutes, stirring frequently to let it insaporire – take up the flavour. Chop it coarsely and transfer to a bowl.

Blanch the walnut kernels in a little boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain and remove as much as you can of the bitter skin. Dry the kernels and chop finely, together with the figs. Add to the spinach in the bowl.

Drain and dry the sultanas and the raisins and add to the bowl. Mix in the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Add the Parmesan, reserving 1 tablespoon, and mix very thoroughly with your hands.

Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F) mark 5.

Butter an 18 cm (7 inch) spring-clip tin and sprinkle with flour.

Roll out about one-third of the pastry dough into a circle to cover the bottom of the tin. Roll out strips of dough and line the sides of the tin. Sprinkle the bottom with the dried breadcrumbs and the remaining Parmesan. Spoon the spinach mixture into the tin and cover with a disc of rolled-out pastry. Seal the edges and brush with the egg yolk into which you have stirred the milk and salt. If you like, and if you have any pastry left, cut out some pretty shapes, place on top of the pie and brush with the egg yolk glaze. Pierce the top here and there with a fork to allow the steam to escape.

Bake for 30 minutes then turn the heat down to 180°C (350°F) mark 4 and bake for a further 10–15 minutes, until the pastry is lovely and golden. Serve warm or at room temperature, but not hot.

preparation

The whole pie can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. It can also be frozen successfully, but do not leave in the freezer for longer than 2 weeks or the flavours will evaporate. Remove from the fridge at least 3 hours before serving.