On October 18 Grant met with Secretary of War Stanton in Indianapolis and received orders appointing him commander of the new Military Division of the Mississippi, covering almost all of the territory from the Allegheny Mountains to the Mississippi. Grant promptly replaced Rosecrans as commander of the Army of the Cumberland with George H. Thomas, named Sherman as the new commander of the Army of the Tennessee, and then headed for Chattanooga. He arrived there on October 23 after riding over the only route still open into the besieged town, a narrow, muddy wagon road through the mountains north of the Tennessee River. By October 30 Union troops had opened the “Cracker Line,” a new supply route that cut across a sharp bend in the river west of Chattanooga. In early November Bragg sent 15,000 men under Longstreet to attack Ambrose Burnside’s Army of the Ohio at Knoxville. While Longstreet besieged Knoxville, Grant awaited the arrival at Chattanooga of Sherman and four divisions of the Army of the Tennessee. William Wrenshall Smith, a successful businessman from Washington, Pennsylvania, was a first cousin of Grant’s wife, Julia Dent Grant. Wishing to “see a battle,” Smith traveled by train to Bridgeport, Alabama, then took a steamer up the Tennessee to Kelley’s Ferry at the western end of the “Cracker Line.”
Friday, Nov. 13 When we awake about 4 oclock this morning (a little before daylight) find we are as far as the Boat goes—Kellie’s Ferry—as the enemy have possession of the river above. Get baggage out on bank about daylight and by the kindness of the Mate—(a Pittsburgh Irishman, and a relation of Quails) and the Captain of the Boat—I find a place to wash—and get a tin of Coffee, and some bread and meat—Gen Starkweather says he will take my baggage with his to Chattanooga and, as the Gen’s Horses dont come, we all start on foot.
Camps now become plentyer—all I beleave, of Hookers troops. The road was now one continuous stream of wagons. We soon got under the famous Look out moutain and within range of thire cannon and every moment expected a shot from the enemy, but we passed clear to Chattanooga, and over two pon-toon bridges, without any interuption. We all sat down on the bank at this (South) end of the Pontoon Bridge, and waited for some time—From the immense quantity of wagons on the other side, awaiting their turns to pass over, ours would have to be delayed some time—so we seperated—Starkweather and his party going down the river to their camps, and I—north to the town, alone—
When on the principal street I asked an officer for Grant’s Head Quarters, and following his direction I soon found it in a neat little white frame house overlooking the river. No one at home but servants, and I wash myself in “the Doctors” room. After waiting some time (½ hour) on the porch Gen Rawlins comes in—recognises me—and gives me a hearty welcome. While talking on the front porch, Lagow dismounts & immediately takes possession of me, and insists on my taking up my quarter in his room—which is opposite the General’s.
In a short time the General arrives. He greets me cordially, and takes me into his room. He puts his quarters and horses at my disposal and makes me feel altogether comfortable.
We have a long talk. He tells me all about his children, about his purchases since he has been in the army—his saving all the money he could for the future, not knowing when his fortunes might change, and he be thrown out of his office—Besides buying the ground and beautiful English Villa in which he lived when I was visiting him 5 years ago in Missouri, from Fred Dent,—he has invested five thousand Dollars in U.S. 5/20’s; He now wants to buy five thousand Dollars worth of Chicago city Passenger Rail Way Stock, and concludes to send his note for that amount—with the U.S. 5/20’s as collateral—for discount, to secure the stock. We have a long pleasant talk till Dinner—which is at 6 oclock. The dinner is very plain—consisting of Roast Beef, Boiled Potatoes, Bread and Butter. The mess consists of the General Dr. Kittoe, Col Lagow, Capt Hudson and (now is added) myself. The General at the head of the table does the carving. None of my baggage has yet arrived. Gen Starkweather promised to send it as soon as his wagons should get to his camp. I am fearful the Gen’s bottle of wine will be confiscated.
After Dinner, a little after dark, Col. Lagow, Capt. Hudson and myself start on horse back and see some of Lagow’s friends—Dr. & Capt. somebody—who are pretty lively larks. Poker and Cold punch fills in the time. I don’t join in the play. Get home about eleven oclock and get to playing Eucre. The General comes in and looks over my hand for half an hour and remarks on my playing.
Saturday Nov. 14. 1863. There was a little rain this morning which made the road too slippery for horses; so we stay at home all day. I send an orderly with a note to Gen Starkweather for my baggage this afternoon. He sends it all but my shawl and a box of segars, both of which were stolen from the wagons, when they crossed the ferry last night. The Gen is pleased to get his bottle of wine. A good many General officers with the General. The Head Quarters are very quiet, as much so as a private house. Quite a disgraceful party—friends of Col Lagow, stay up nearly all night playing &c. The Gen breaks up the party himself about 4 oclock in the morning.
Sunday Nov. 15. The horses are to-day sent to Kellie’s ferry for General Hunter—who has been ordered here from Washington to inspect the army. An inspection, Grant, says is imposseble as the men are on more important duty—principally making roads. Dead horses and mules are very plenty. Gen Rawlins gives us readings this afternoon—among other things the evening service. He has a fine strong voice.
Lt. Col. Duff, and Lt.s Towner and Dunn are churchmen. Dr. Kittoe also is a Churchman. But all religion is lost in the army. Lagow don’t come to table to-day. He is greatly mortified at his conduct last night. Grant is much offended at him and I am fearful it will result in his removal.
Gen Hunter is the guest of the General, and is to stay in his room. Capt. Ross’ cot is moved in for him. The cot breaks down and sets him onto the floor—and the Gen. gives up his bed to him & is compelled to “bunk” with Dr Kittoe
Monday Nov. 16. This morning quite a number of General officers at Head quarters. I was standing in front of quarters as they come out to mount and Grant called to me to get Capt Hudson’s horse and ride with him. Hudson’s horse was soon out and I follow just in time to get to the boat (rope ferry) as it was about pushing off. Grant stopped it till I got my horse on. The Boat was crowded and we had some dificulty in making the northern shore. The party was Gen’s. Grant, Thomas, Sherman, Smith, Hunter, Reynolds, Branen, Rawlins, Lt. Col. Duff and myself, with three orderlies. After riding up the river less than a mile we turned up the hill to the left into the woods perhaps a mile more where our horses were left behind the hill & we all walked to the edge of the woods overlooking the river and the country beyond all of which was held by the enemy. The field glasses of the Generals closely examined Missionary Ridge & the country this side After about half an hour remounted and went up the river still further to the place selected for the Pontoon bridge to be built. Gens Sherman and Smith went out to examine with their glasses while the balance of the party remained behind the woods. Grant was in a fine humor, and as he leaned against the fence, was telling us about the former great speculations in Real Estate in Chicago and Millwaukee When Gens Smith and Sherman came back, Smith asked Grant if he would walk down and see the spot they had selected for the bridge. We could see them as they picked their way over the rather wide bottom between the wooded hill and the river bank, and thought they were getting too near the rifles of the pickets on the other side.
They come back in about half an hour, when Grant immediately mounts and I with him & we ride rapidly back leaving the others behind. After riding for some time I find that Gen Hunter & Col Duff are the only ones of the party who are in sight. Grant told me about his boys at school—he is very proud of them and fond of talking of them. He also tells me of Col. Hillyer, who after leaving him went to N.Y. and is now doing finely at his profession—the Law The hills we have been traveling over to-day appear to be composed of a porous, (like pomice stone) rock which make the roads over it excellent. I say to Grant I think the hill country is worthless for agricultural purposes, but he says it is the finest country for grapes he has seen.
Gen Hunter and Col Duff overtake us at a farm house on top of the hill, where we commence to descend to the river bottom, and we all stop and get a drink of water without dismounting. As we pass the ferry, find the Boat on the other side and we ride very rapidly to the Pontoon Bridge, but find it broken—by a raft—so we ride back more slowly to the ferry again,—where we find the balance of our party. The enemy are continually sending down large rafts to destroy the Pontoon bridges. But most of them are caught and hauled in by the troops for fire-wood, which is exceedingly scarce. While riding back to the ferry Grant & Hunter were telling stories of old army acquaintenses some of which were very rich and were hugely enjoyed. Grant is in high spirits—and tells a story admirably. In general he is extreemly reserved, but with one or two friends he is very entertaining and agreeable.
As we are coming over on the Boat my horse (Hudsons) insists on drinking a great deal of the clear, cold water of the river. As we get off the boat he rears with me, running me against a pile of amunition boxes and almost against the wheel of a big army waggon. I get off however with only some slight scrapes on my leg.—We have lunch at about 3 oclock, after which go out on Rosses horse with Gen Grant, Hunter, Capt Hudson and others to see the fortifications on this side of the river—From fort Wood we go to an eminence south west of the town, under Lookout Mountain. While there the enemy must have been attracted by so large a party on horseback, for a shell from Lookout no doubt fired at us, exploded midway in the air.
Get back in time for a good dinner. After dark go with Lagow to a meeting of Indiana officers. A large room is crowded by them and as I soon see it is a business meeting I go out on the porch and listen to a fine band playing in the yard. After the meeting every body fell to playing Eucre &c. (I noticed four Generals who had monopolised one table.) We did not stay long, but after a few games with some very clever fellows, went home.
Tuesday Nov. 17, 1863. There is such a dense fog today that we cannot go out. Think of home—and the little Church, which is being consecrated to-day, and console myself by reading the consecration service. Amuse myself by writing and talking to some of the Staff officers. The General has a great many General officers and others to see him on business. At dinner Gen Hunter who is a great Puritan remarked that Card playing was very prevelent in the camps. Grant says he thinks it the best possible amusement the troops can have.
Wednesday Nov. 18, 1863. The 79th Penna Band serenade the General this evening. He comes out on the porch, and when they are through, takes off his hat to them, and without saying a word, walks into his room again.
He is very anxious about Burnsides, and is up every night till 12 and 2 o’clock—writing and sending off dispatches.
Thursday Nov. 19. The General had ordered the horses and we were about mounting when despatches are received from Burnsides—so the General can’t go, and we order the horses back—and I spend the morning on the knob or promentory overhaging the river and about the ruined Iron works—reading and throwing stones into the river. The mouth of a great cave is said to be just under me. When I first came here this hill was covered with very large cedar trees—they have now disappeared—stumps and all—for fire wood. There is a good deal of stir about Head Quarter to-day It sounds like business. Gen John E. Smith of Sherman’s Army here this afternoon. He looks rough and tired. Capts. Hudson and Ross ride with me about the works and camps. Every thing about them looks very clean and comfortable.
Friday Nov. 20. Cloudy to-day. The General has a good many in this room to-day among whom I notice Gen’s Hooker, Howard &c. Business is lively about Head Quarters. The Steamer “Dunbar” which is being fast completed just under the bank below our quarters has her boilers protected by piles of cotton bales. Numbers of pontoon boats are being made every day under cover of the bank and disappear during the night.
Capt. Ross, who to-day, takes charge of the mess—(“runing the mess” they call it) expects to have a grand dinner and has invited several guests. As the lunch don’t come on at the usual hour we commence complaining, and he informs us he don’t intend to have any as Dinner to-day is to be at 4 o’clock. As the hunger of the party increases their complaints grow louder, till Ross, at last, has to order lunch at 3 oclock
At 5 oclock we have Dinner. Besides our own party we have Gen’s Meigs, Gen Wilson and Mr. Dana (of the warr office). Ross don’t provide enough plates, and Lagow and Hudson have to retire to curse Ross in private. The General adds further to Ross’ discomfort by saying that he had lunch so late and dinner so early that he has no appetite. The guests however enjoy there dinner and we do the talking.
Among other things the General says Bragg sent him word by flag of truce this afternoon, advising him to remove all noncombatants from Chattanooga within forty-eight hours. The Gen. says he did not answer it, but will when Sherman gets up. We have several jokes and laughs over it.
Gen Hooker and Howard here agan to-day
Saturday Nov. 21. As it is a pretty day I ask Gen Hunter to ride with me to Gen A Baird’s quarters. He is a Washington man and Gen Hunter is acquainted with him. So after lunch Hunter on the Gen’s Celebrated Yellow Stallion, “Jack” (which horse he has monopolized) and myself on Capt Ross’ horse, start for a short ride. We find Baird’s quarters in a pretty little one-story cottage in the south western part of the town. I introduce myself to the General who immediately recognises me, and asks about our family, and his relations and acquantenses in “little” Washington. He had quite a talk with Gen Hunter explaining with a chart his part in the unfortunate battle of Chikamauga. He is also very attentive to me, and when we are going away repeatedly presses me to come and see him often. I speak to him about getting John Acheson transferred to his staff.
Sunday Nov. 22. Capt. Ross and I ride to Fort Wood and have a look at the enemy. The picket line is about a quarter of a mile in front of us and we can planly see their pickets. This side of Missionary ridge is white with the tents of the Confederates. We hold but a little space on the south side of the river about Chattanooga. In the fort I meet and shake hands with Gen. Baird who again asks me to call on him. Lt’s Towner and Duff are doing a great deal of riding on duty—Gen Wilson is also very active, being nearly always on horseback—
Read the Church service in our room. Shermans men are being hurried to their concealed camps on the other side of the river.
Monday Nov. 23. 1863 This morning is cloudy. The heavy guns at Fort Wood keep up quite a regular fire on the Confederate camps. The battle was to have commenced this morning; but Sherman is not quite ready. Spend the Morning at Fort Wood looking at the fireing. At one o’clock the General tells me to take the elegant brown horse presented to him by Gen. Meigs and ride with him. We go in company with Gen Hunter and others, to fort Wood. Gen Thomas and quite a number of General and Staff officers are there, and it looks very much like business. We sit about on the sand bags, smoking and amuse ourselves looking at the bursting of our shells—when they do burst.
About half past two Gen Thomas’ troops move out in front of us, as if in review. “By Heaven, tis a splendid sight to see, For one who hath no friend, no brother there.” The enemy from Missionary-ridge and the near rifle pits look at the show—supposing no doubt it is a review. At about 2½ oclock a long line of battle is formed more than a mile in length and just in front of us. The skirmishers move forward, and then, the whole line advances. As our skirmishers come near the enemys pickets, we see, distinctly, their rifles aimed, and the smoke, followed by the reports. It is like a piece of machenary—Then, in a few minutes, the long line become engaged in the woods and I for the first time hear the heavy roll of musketry. The enemy are driven from their first line of rifle pits and our troops get possession of the rising ground more than a half way to Missionary ridge—No sooner had our men possession of the woods than our wagons and wood-choppers were busy cutting fire-wood and hauling it into camp. Thy wagons & woodchopers were in the woods when the battle commenced
Several squads of prisoners are brought in—in one lot about a hundred. At the very first of the engagement I heard two bullets whistle by my head. About four oclock we go back to our quarters—the General being well pleased at what had been accomplished. He seems perfectly cool, and one could be with him for hours, and not know that any great movements were going on. Its a mere matter of business with him.
While we are at Dinner this evening the cannon fireing increeses, and the explosions shake the windows. Our mess eat their dinner, and talk, as though they were a thousand miles away from what is likely to be one of the greatest battle fields of the war. The firing continues till dark. I spend the evening with Col Lagow, Capt Hudson, Capt Ross, Maj Rowley, Lt Dunn and others. Cadwallader, the correspondent of the Chicago Times, amuses us by relating some hair-breadth escapes he made on the field this after-noon. The ten Gal. is nerely out.
Tuesday Nov. 24. 1863. A damp, drizzly, cold day. I wear my “ponchio” most of the morning. After Breakfast—about 7½ oclock—The General sends Cap Ross, Hudson and myself to Fort Wood, with orders to stay there, and report to him any thing of interest. About 2 hours later we see him with Gen Thomas and two or three others riding under the fort to “the front,” which is now about a mile from us. We hear that Sherman had succeeded in crossing two thousand troops, by day light, on pontoon bridges made during the night, and we can see his troops taking possession of the north end of Missionary Ridge with but little opposition. During the day one of the most beautiful sights that can be imagined, gives us for a little while some extra excitemt. The beautiful Tenn. river is in view for perhaps 2 miles above us, from Ft. Wood Looking up, a single pontoon boat, filled with men, their bright bayonets bristling in the light, came in sight.—then two or three, then a dosen, then the whole river swarmed with them—all quietly and calmly floating down to-wards us.
About noon as Capts. Parker, Hudson, Ross & myself are standing on the front of the fort talking and wondering why it was so quiet on the left and front—suddenly broke out on the other side of Lookout Mountain, and on either side of the river below us, the fiercest and most tremendeous roars of both cannon and musketry, I ever conceived of. We were fearful that Bragg had precipitated a tremendeous force on Hooker, and was anniheleting him. As the General was to the left and fearing he could not, from his position hear what was going on, we dispatched both Ross and Hudson after him. In about ½ an hour we could see Grant and three or four more riding leisurely to-wards the fort, smoking and appearing more like a farmer out looking at Stock, than a general in a battle. Supposing the General would ride to our right, where this tremendeous attack was being made, I mounted my “Brown” and rode about 5 hundred yards to the bridge over the R.R. to meet him, but looking back at the fort saw him quietly dismounting. So I ride back again and did likewise. The Signal men put their glasses on Lookout, and announced the progress of Hookers forces, as they scaled the mountain, slowly driving the enemy before them. The roar of cannon and the volleys of musketry were made more terrific by the reverberation along the steep, high ridges of the mountains.
As the enemy were driven above the thick mist in which the top of Lookout was enveloped, Grant wrote orders for troops to be sent up the valley to cut off the retreat. As none of the staff, but myself, were about him at the time, I furnshed him the paper and pencel. He wrote on one knee while he knelt, on the ground, with the other. Our successes are reported along the lines of the centre and left, and we hear the loud cheers of the men as they rolled from the right to the left.
At night, from the porch of our quarters, we have a most beautiful view of Lookout. Our camp fires skirt the mountain two thirds of the way up. We stay on the porch most of the evening looking at the beautiful scene—Camp fires and flashes of musketry—till about midnight. The musketry firing, the General says, is extra work—not in the programme. The Gen. says they will evacuate the mountain to night. Many a poor fellow, who this morning, was full of life and health and hope, is, to-night, lying among the crags and bushes of Lookout, cold in death.
There shall they rot, ambitions honor’d fools
In these behold the tools—the broken tools
That Tyrants cast away by myriads
So I went to sleep to dream of the roar of cannon the rattle of musketry and the tramp of charging squadrons
Wednesday, Nov. 25. 63. A beauteful clear cold day. We find the enemy evacuated Lookout during the night and our flag this morning flouts from its top. After breakfast we all go to Fort Wood. (The General gives me his Bay horse today and he rides the Brown) Generals Grant & Hunter and myself were riding to-gether. As we passed a part of the Anderson troop encamped immediately in the rear of Gen Thomases quarter, I remarked to the Gen. that part of the regiment had been recruted in Western Penna. as a body Guard for Anderson and afterwards Buell. Hunter said that Fremont had run the escort or body Guard so much into the ground that it was now looked on as a want of sense to have one, and remarked that if Fremont had had charge of the war, the rebellion would have been a success in 6 months after it started. To which Grant agreed.
After we had been at the Fort some time and as every thing appears to be quiet Lagow and I ride back to quarters for a drink. We stay’d but a few minutes and rode immediately back to the fort but found the General gone. About 11 oclock Sherman became heavely engaged on the extreeme left—every inch of his attempted progress along the ridge being severly contested. About 11½ oclock I ride back again, alone, and ordered “Bill,” the General’s nigger, to get lunch for me and to put up in a haversack enough for the General and five or six others. While “Bill” is getting the lunch ready I bathe myself and put on a clean shirt.
In less than half an hour I was back to Fort Wood, and found General Hunter mounted, and about starting for Orchard Knob, about a mile to the front, where he had sent us word to meet him. Just as we get under the fort one of the big guns is fired over our heads. The sudden and tremendeous report frightens, for a moment, my horse. He gave a sudden spring to one side but I kept my saddle firmly. We pass quite a body of troops in the valley. Suppose them to be Baird’s. We go through the woods a little distance, and soon get to the fort of the stony knob on this side of which are a great many officers’ horses, and quite a number of troops, ambulances &c I gave my horse to Bradford, one of the General’s orderlies, and climbed to the top of the Knob.
We found Grant, Thomas, and several other General Officers and their staffs. The wind blew quite cold, and our overcoats were very comfortable. We are now in the front of the centre. The top of Missionary Ridge is not more than a mile from us by an air line, and the enemy’s rifle pits are immediately below or under us, within musket shot. We can see there troops on the road on top of the ridge. Generals and there staffs ride along the top of the ridge and look down on us, as from the third tier of a Theater, and our batteries a mile back of us are throwing shell over our heads at them. I thought it a dangerous place. It is to me astonishing they did not shell us. General Thomas, remarked to Grant, that if the enemy had known who were there, they would have paid us more attention All this time Sherman is attempting to drive them from his end of the ridge and the enemy’s whole attention seems to be drawn to him. His troops have been twice repulsed. We can see them advancing across a large open field on the side of the ridge and twice are they driven back with great loss. The cannonaiding and musketry in that quarter is terriffic and is kept up without intermission. All this time the centre and right is quiet. But they are not idle. Heavy bodies of troops, (Gen. Baird’s is part of them) are coming up behind and on either side of us, and taking positions. Sherman gets his signal station in sight and the signaling from our quarter to his, commences.
After two oclock Grant asks me if I have anything to eat—and we go down under the hill sit down on a log near a fire and open the lunch which is divided between the General, Gen. Hunter, Dr Kittoe and myself. They were all hungry and enjoyed the lunch. The General tills us he this morning got a dispatch from the President Thanking him for what had been done the two previous days. After smoking and talking pleasantly for half an hour more we go again to the top of the Knoll.
I think it was about half past three when the General gave the orders to fire the six guns which are planted on the Knoll (They were placed here night before last). It was the signal for the storming of the enemies rifle pits along the whole centre. Such an immence roar I never conceived of. All our guns together with those of the enemy all along Missionary Ridge seemed to open up at once. Our stormers moved forward at the rifle pits of the enemy as if they knew they were going to succeed. The roll of musketry from our lines (about two miles in length) and the reply from the enemies rifle pits near the foot of the ridge, was terrific. As our men charged, the Graybacks broke from behind their protection and up the hill, our men following with chear upon chear and the cannon and musketry on top of the hill pouring shot and shell upon them. Regiment after regiment gained the top and planted their colors—most of them gaining it by the many roads that passed from the valley to the top of the ridge.
As the matter is about decided and expecting to have a long ride in persuit I mount my horse and fly into town,—fill my flask and get back again to near the Knoll, within about a quarter of an hour,—when I catch up to Maj Rowley who is on his way out. We find the General and his party have just left for the Ridge and, we follow. In the valley just under, where we have been standing, we pass many dead & wounded men. Some of the wounded supported by others that are not so badly wounded. It was a horrible sight, but I, expecting it, was not so much shocked as would be supposed.
We got to the top of the ridge by a very rough road, impasable for any thing but horses and men On the top are several captured cannon, and a great many of our troops, resting, drawn up to repell any attempt to retake the heights. The further we get to the north part of the Ridge, the more loud and sharp is the musketry. It seems one continuous roll. Some poor fellows lying on the road, badly wounded—we stop and give some whiskey. We directly meet the General and party, who are returning, as it is now near dark. I ride home with General Hunter The enemy are routed on all hands, and to-morrow, we expect a big ride after them. The General calls to me and says I was very lucky to be here, as “it wasn’t in half a dozen life times one could see so much of a battle with comparatively so little danger.” He praised General Baird as a “fine officer.”
We got back in time to have dinner about an hour and a half after dark. Lt. Towner was wounded when only about a hundred yards from the General, on his way back for amunition for some of the captured cannon. The shot knocked him from his horse—but he is not dangerous. The General orders an ambulance to be got ready in the morning with provetions for the staff for three days, and also a sufficent guard for it. As Capt. Ross and Maj Rowley are ordered to Sherman for his report, I go over with Col Lagow and spend an hour with Capt. Janes—the Staff Comasserry. As we walk home we see Missionary Ridge illuminated by the camp-fires of our men.