PASTRY CREAM

The first time I made pastry cream, I was working with Zoë François on a chaotic but incredibly fun photoshoot. I was back in the kitchen baking loaves of bread and brioche, trying to stay ahead of schedule and have everything ready for the next photo. Pastry cream was needed, and I pretended I knew what I was doing when Zoë handed me the recipe and told me to make it quick. Somehow I pulled it off—there before me in the pan was a thick, yellow custard. I took the pan off the heat to show her how pretty it was. She took it from my hands and placed it back on the stovetop. “Cook out the starch!” she insisted. “Whisk it until it’s glossy and smooth, or you’ll have a grainy mess.” I meekly obeyed and ended up with the most beautiful, smooth pastry cream. Making pastry cream now, I always remember her directions. Cooking the custard for a few extra minutes helps cook out the starch and keeps the cream from separating.

These days, I start my pastry cream in a stand mixer, beating the eggs and sugar until thick and pale, then slowly add warm milk and cream to temper the eggs. It is a little more hands off and less messy than the way I used to make pastry cream. makes 2 cups

7 large egg yolks

1¼ cups (248 g) sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped

¼ cup (28 g) cornstarch

1 cup whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter, cold

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the egg yolks, sugar, salt, and vanilla bean seeds on medium-high until very thick and pale yellow, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the cornstarch. Turn the mixer to low and mix until combined.

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the milk and heavy cream until just scalded. Remove from the heat and pour into a medium measuring cup with a pourable spout.

With the mixer running on low, very slowly add the hot milk mixture. Mix until completely combined.

Transfer to a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and add the vanilla bean pod. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the pastry cream becomes very thick and begins to boil, 5 to 7 minutes. Whisk the mixture, until the pastry cream thickens, similar to a pudding, and is glossy and smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain the pastry cream through a sieve into a medium bowl, and discard the vanilla bean pod. Stir in the butter and vanilla. Cover with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap sits directly on top of the cream (this will help keep it from forming a skin). Place the bowl in the freezer for 15 minutes, then transfer to the refrigerator until well chilled.

VARIATION

chocolate pastry cream • Add 6 ounces (170 g) melted bittersweet chocolate to the saucepan just before straining the pastry cream. Whisk until fully incorporated, and strain the pastry cream as directed.

crème mousseline • Also known as German buttercream, crème mousseline is a pastry cream buttercream. If you have leftover pastry cream, you can add room temperature butter to it, whip it in your stand mixer, and use it to frost cakes. It is wonderful with the Chocolate Cake. Use 1 cup (227 g) unsalted butter to 2 cups (454 g) pastry cream.

CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR GLAZE

1½ cups (170 g) confectioners’ sugar

2 to 4 tablespoons whole milk

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch salt

In a medium bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, 2 tablespoons milk, vanilla, and salt. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, to thin the icing to a preferred consistency. For a pure white icing, omit the vanilla.