Nothing’s richer than a dark meat–based gravy, and when you use chicken necks as the base you get an especially tasty sauce. This is because dark meat forms in areas that are in constant use by the chicken: If you’ve ever seen a chicken walk, you know its head bobs back and forth with every step, not to mention the constant pecking at the ground for food. All this means the neck is one of the most used parts of the bird, creating the darkest and most intensely flavorful meat on a chicken. • makes about 2 cups gravy
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the chicken necks and cook until well browned on both sides. Remove from the pot and set aside to cool. Pick up a chicken neck and pinch out the meat from between each vertebra with your thumb and forefinger. Reserve the meat and discard the bones.
Over medium heat, whisk the flour into the drippings in the pan until a thick paste forms. Add the stock, ½ cup at a time, whisking constantly until a smooth gravy forms. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the pepper. Simmer, uncovered, until thickened to the desired consistency, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and add salt to taste.
For a chunkier texture, stir the chicken neck meat into the gravy before serving. For a silkier texture, strain the gravy with a mesh sieve before serving alongside the chicken neck meat.