Distance: 1km (half a mile), plus further exploring
Time: Full day including travel
Start/End: Vaxholm boat terminal
Points to note: You can drive to Vaxholm or take the Waxholmsbolaget (www.waxholmsbolaget.se ) boat from Strömkajen or the Stromma boat from Strandvägen (Apr−Dec)
The urban area of Vaxholm is the traditional trading centre for the 60 or so islands in the eastern archipelago. Vaxholm retains numerous charming reminders of life in the mid-18th century, when the wealthier Stockholmers began to turn it into an ideal resort and build elegantly decorated wooden summer homes.
As well as sightseeing and shopping you can also sail, canoe, windsurf or swim at several good bathing beaches (Eriksö and Tenö). Fishing for your own Baltic herring from the town’s quayside is popular, but you could just sample them for lunch in one of the restaurants in the harbour.
Fästings Museet
In 1548 Gustav Vasa ordered the nearby island of Vaxholmen to be fortified, which is easily reached by small ferry (and where the route begins) close to where the boats dock. About 300 years later a new fortress was built there, but it lost its military importance and became a civil prison. Today the Kastellet citadel features the Fästnings Museet 1 [map] (Vaxholm Fortress Museum; www.vaxholmsfastning.se; June daily noon–4pm, July–Aug 11am–5pm, Sept Sat–Sun noon–5pm, May Sat–Sun noon–4pm), revealing the citadel and its defences during wartime. You can also visit the prison and an exhibition on weapons and uniforms.
The bustling waterside town of Vaxholm
Shutterstock
Vaxholm Centre
Back on Vaxholm, the wooden buildings with boutiques and craft shops around the main square and along Hamngatan make for a pleasant stroll. Start on Strandgatan, heading north away from the harbour, passing the Waxholms Hotell 2 [map]. With its beautiful view of the busy harbour, the hotel is a great place to dine – herring is a speciality – or have coffee. There are a number of other recommended spots for lunch, including Bistro Magasinet, see 1, on Fiskargatan, which has a terrace that looks over the fortress. Magasinet is both a restaurant and lifestyle store with Scandinavian furnishings and clothing, and includes a yoga studio.
Vaxholm’s waterfront in winter
Bengt Nyman
Other highlights
Heading northwest on Fiskaregatan you will come to Norrhamnen 3 [map], Vaxholm’s original fishing harbour featuring houses and cottages from the 19th century. It is well worth stopping at the Hembygdsgården Museet 4 [map] (Homestead Museum), set in a century-old fishing cottage with a pleasant café (museum: June–Aug Fri–Sun, also Thu and Mon in July; free; café: May–mid-Sept 11am–8pm). Here you can find out how a fishing family lived in the 1850s when around 50 families were involved in the herring industry. Back on Fiskaregatan, turn right down Norrhamsgaten, keeping to the left into Rådhusgatan, to visit the Rådhuset 5 [map] (Town Hall and tourist office; www.vaxholm.se/turistwebb; June–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm, May, Sept daily 10am–3pm, Oct–Apr Mon–Fri 10am–3pm, Sat–Sun 11am–3pm; guided tours of Vaxholm available and bicycle hire), the 100-year-old law-courts’ building, given its present appearance by Cyrillus Johansson in 1925.
Exploring Vaxholm
Julian Love/Apa Publications
Continue on Rådhusgatan where there are several fine boutiques selling textiles, clothing, ceramics, crafts and souvenirs. Turn west on Hamngatan to Lägret 6 [map], which in 1878 was the exercise area for the soldiers manning the fortress. The large cottage on the hill was built as a residence for soldiers in 1909.
Vaxholms Kyrka
Just before Lägret turn down Kungsgatan and at No.6 you will find Vaxholms Kyrka 7 [map]. The present church, built between 1760 and 1803, replaced a wooden affair built in the 17th century. It’s a typical Swedish church with an unusual red bell tower. Cross over to Kapellgatan, turn left and then right into Hamngatan. No trip to Vaxholm is complete without afternoon tea at the charming Café Silltruten, see 2, at No. 4. Continue south back to the ferry point.
Food and Drink
1 Bistro Magasinet
Fiskaregatan 1; tel: 08-541 305 05; www.magasinetwaxholm.se; daily 11am–4pm; $
Located on the third floor of this old forge devoted to lifestyle, the bistro offers a weekly lunch menu at a very good price as well as plenty of cakes and good coffee. The outdoor seating offers fine views of the island.
2 Café Silltruten
Hamngatan 4; tel: 08-541 300 73; daily 11am–4pm; $
A proper Swedish café with odd crockery and traditional decor, this is the perfect place for exceptional coffee and yummy cakes when visiting Vaxholm. Lunch options come in large portions − great value for money.