superior homemade condiments
In the beginning, of course, pickles, chutneys, salsas, relishes, even salad dressings were always made at home. Now we have somehow come to believe that everyday condiments are impossible to make and must be purchased in jars. While there may be some good brands, and buying ready-made is convenient, a look at the label usually reveals unpronounceable ingredients, along with thickeners, sweeteners, and “natural flavors,” a term that is always a little unnerving. So it makes sense that they’re absolutely better when you make them yourself. Stirring them up is easy, and quite a pleasurable activity.
If you don’t want to depend on some manufacturer’s idea of flavor, here is a small collection of condiments you can easily produce at home. Some, like Tomato-Onion Chutney, are best made in advance; others, like Anchovy-Garlic Spread, can be prepared quickly at the last minute.
This traditional hot green, herby condiment is served in little jars at my favorite falafel joint in Paris (they serve jars of harissa too)—when they’re in the mood to make it. I always ask for it, but some days it’s simply not there. No point in asking why, all you get is a shrug. A day without green sauce is a sad one, so I came up with my own, which, slathered into a pita with hummus and tomatoes (or a little grilled lamb), tastes mighty authentic. Try it too in non–Middle Eastern ways, on fried eggs and hash browns, or to brighten a Yankee pot roast. Makes ¾ cup
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Leaves from 1 small bunch parsley
Leaves and tender stems from 1 small bunch cilantro
2 serrano or jalapeño chiles
3 garlic cloves
6 scallions
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup olive oil
Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small dry pan over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Coarsely grind in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle.
Coarsely chop the parsley, cilantro, chiles, garlic, and scallions. Pulse with the salt in a food processor or blender until you have a rough puree.
Transfer the herb puree to a bowl and stir in the ground spices and olive oil. This is best the day it is made.
All over North Africa, this hot red pepper sauce, known as harissa, is in demand. You can buy it in tubes or cans, but homemade harissa is superior.
Harissa is very useful in the kitchen. Burgers of every kind are improved immeasurably with just a dab. Stir a little into the broth when you’re cooking chickpeas or braising chicken, or into thick bean soups. Or use a spoonful in vegetable salads or to give oomph to a vinaigrette. New Mexico or guajillo chiles are a good choice for dried red peppers and have a reliable heat level. Makes ¾ cup
10 to 12 large dried chile peppers, such as New Mexico or guajillo (about 3 ounces)
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup olive oil, plus a little more
Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles. Put the chiles in a small pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, until the chiles have softened. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking water. Let the chiles cool.
Toast the cumin, coriander, and caraway seeds in a small dry pan over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Coarsely grind in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle.
In a food processor or blender, combine the chiles, garlic, salt, and olive oil and blend at high speed, adding a little of the reserved soaking water if necessary to form a smooth paste. Add the spices and blend for 1 minute more.
Transfer the sauce to a jar and drizzle a bit of olive oil over the top. It will keep for a month in the refrigerator.
Start with the best anchovy fillets you can find, imported salted ones or a jar of high-quality oil-packed. Then quickly combine with just a few other ingredients to make an oily, garlicky spread that’s good for all sorts of things. I like it on warm toasted bread with drinks. Added to a bit of softened butter with chopped parsley, it’s a great sauce for steaks, chops, or grilled fish. With a squeeze of lemon juice, it can be a dip for raw vegetables. Or add a spoonful to salad dressings or simple pastas. Even those who claim to dislike anchovies are usually converted. Makes ¼ cup
4 salt-packed anchovies or 8 oil-packed anchovy fillets
Lukewarm milk (optional)
2 garlic cloves
Salt and pepper
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
Pinch of red pepper flakes or cayenne (optional)
If using salt-packed anchovies, soak them in cold water to soften for 5 minutes. Peel the fillets away from the bones with your fingers and rub off any bits of scale or fin. Rinse the fillets and blot dry with paper towels. If using oil-packed fillets, rinse briefly in the milk and blot dry.
Pound the garlic to a paste with a little salt in a mortar (or just use a knife to chop the ingredients together). Add the anchovy fillets and pound to a rough paste. Stir in the olive oil, black pepper to taste, and lemon zest. Add the red pepper flakes, if you like.
In sit-down pizzerias all over Italy, there are always two condiments on the table. One is a bottle of fruity extra virgin olive oil. The other is a small wine bottle with a pour spout, filled with olio santo, hot-red-pepper-infused olive oil. Diners choose whether to anoint their individual pizzas with one, the other, or both. This spicy oil is good for drizzling on lots of things besides pizza—bean soups, crostini of all kinds, and steamed or boiled greens or vegetables, to name just a few. Makes 1 cup
1 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
1 small rosemary sprig
In a small stainless steel saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat to 120°F (use an instant-read thermometer). Turn off the heat and add the red pepper flakes and fennel seeds. Let steep until cool. Strain if desired.
Pour the oil into a clean jar, add the rosemary sprig, and store at cool room temperature.
Variation: Asian Hot Oil
1 cup peanut or safflower oil
12 small dried red chile peppers
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
In a small stainless steel saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat to 120°F (use an instant-read thermometer). Turn off the heat and add the chiles, peppercorns, cayenne, and sesame oil. Let steep until cool. Strain if desired.
Pour the oil into a clean jar and store at cool room temperature.
Long-simmered chutneys are a bit of a project, but it’s lovely to have a jar or two in the pantry, especially this one made with ripe, red tomatoes. Chutney needn’t accompany only authentic Indian dishes. A spoonful can also complement a good roast chicken or a leg of lamb, even a plate of scrambled eggs at midnight. Makes 4 cups
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon nigella seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
2 cups finely diced onions
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons salt
8 small dried red chile peppers
4 cups chopped ripe tomatoes
½ cup white wine vinegar
A 2-inch chunk of ginger, peeled and cut into fine slivers
2 cups raw sugar or packed dark brown sugar
1 cup golden raisins
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Heat the oil in a heavy stainless steel or enameled pot over medium heat. Add the mustard, nigella, cumin, and fennel seeds and let them fry gently until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and garlic, sprinkle with the salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.
Add the hot peppers, tomatoes, vinegar, ginger, and sugar, turn the heat to medium-high, and mash the tomatoes and sugar together with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the chutney has thickened nicely, about 45 minutes.
Add the raisins and cayenne (more if you like it extra spicy) and cook for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Ladle into clean jars. The chutney will keep for 1 month, refrigerated, or up to 6 months in the freezer. If you process it for canning, it will keep for a year.
Pickled ginger is delicious, and it’s easy to make at home, without artificial color or MSG. All you need is a knob of aromatic fresh ginger plus a little salt, sugar, and rice vinegar. You can add a slice of red beet to give it a hint of pink, or leave it its natural golden color. This makes a small batch, and it takes only an hour or so for the pickle to be ready. Any you don’t use will keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. Makes ¼ cup
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
A 3-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced as thin as possible (see Note)
1 slice of red beet (optional, for color)
Combine the sugar, salt, and vinegar in a small jar and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the ginger and beet, if using. Make sure the ginger is completely submerged. Leave at room temperature for at least an hour, or up to several hours, before serving. Refrigerate any leftovers.
Note: Use a mandoline or a sharp thin knife to cut the ginger into nearly paper-thin slices. Make slices along the grain, not across it.
Although the classic long-fermented cabbage-based kimchee is fairly easy to make, it does take time. This version with scallions is ridiculously simple and ready in a day or two. I learned how to make it from my friend Russell, a Los Angeles–born cook whose Korean mother made it throughout his childhood. Russell Serves it to accompany perfectly steamed rice and simple grilled fish, a lovely combination. I like it chopped and stirred into a bowl of brothy ramen-style noodles, or tucked into a ham sandwich. Makes 2 cups
4 bunches scallions
2 teaspoons salt
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon raw sugar or dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon grated ginger
¼ cup Korean red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Trim the scallions and cut into 3-inch lengths. Put them in a glass or ceramic bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and let stand for 10 minutes.
Mix together the garlic, sugar, ginger, red pepper flakes, sesame oil, sesame seeds, fish sauce, and rice vinegar. Add to the scallions and toss well to coat.
Lay a plate over the bowl and leave in a warm place (at least 70°F) for 24 hours. Or, for a stronger-tasting kimchee, let ripen for up to 72 hours. It will keep for a month, refrigerated.
For years I worked with Carl, an Italian-American raised in a San Francisco suburb. He wasn’t a professionally trained cook, but having grown up in a traditional multigenerational Italian family, he’d learned a lot from his relatives, most of whom were great cooks. He was always describing the feasts his clan organized, and I always gleaned a cooking tip from him. One day I saw him chopping up basil and garlic with a knife, then stirring in a generous amount of olive oil. He used it to flavor some stewed zucchini. “This is what my mother called pesto,” he said, but it wasn’t at all like the thick green pesto I knew. I marveled at how quickly the basil flavored the oil; it’s rather ingenious. Drizzle it over most any vegetable, or stir into a pasta dish. Makes about 1 cup
1 cup basil leaves
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
With a sharp knife, slice the basil into ¼-inch-wide strips, then roughly chop. Put the basil in a small bowl, add the garlic, and stir in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Leave the pesto at room temperature for 15 minutes to let the flavors infuse. This is best used the same day.
It’s fun (and easy) to make mustard at home. In bygone days, it was considered a normal kitchen task. After all, the simplest mustard is just a mixture of ground mustard seeds, vinegar, and salt.
My friend Charles concocts his quickly, from that mustard powder sold in a yellow tin to accompany grilled lamb chops (a long-standing tradition in his family). Following his example, I was inspired to experiment with mustard making in my own kitchen. This is a slightly grainy mustard, and rather hot and spicy. Makes about ½ cup
3 tablespoons black or brown mustard seeds
3 tablespoons dry mustard powder
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup cold water
Coarsely grind the mustard seeds in a spice mill; open the lid carefully—the mustard oil released in grinding may make your eyes tear. (If you have a deep heavy mortar, you can grind the seeds in that.) Put the ground mustard in a small glass or ceramic bowl. Add the mustard powder, vinegar, and salt, then add the cold water, stirring well. Leave to ripen for at least 30 minutes before using. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Variation: Mustard Cream
This mustard sauce is good with raw, smoked, or grilled fish or with cold chicken or sliced avocados. Makes ½ cup
½ cup crème fraîche or lightly whipped heavy cream (about ⅓ cup before whipping)
1 tablespoon Mustard from Scratch (recipe above)
Pinch of cayenne
Pinch of sugar
2 teaspoons grated horseradish
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
Salt and pepper
Put the crème fraîche in a bowl and stir in the mustard, cayenne, sugar, horseradish, and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill for 30 minutes to let the flavors infuse.
From top: Black Olive Relish and Green Olive Relish
The Provençal olive relish called tapenade is deep-flavored and earthy. My French friends would never think of making their own, because they have so many good artisanal versions available to them, but here it’s wiser to make it at home. Tapenade is perfect picnic food, easily transported. Just add bread, cheese, and a bottle of wine. It’s also a great condiment with grilled or roasted chicken, lamb, or fish, or as a spread in a sandwich. For a quick snack or antipasto, drizzle a spoonful of tapenade, thinned with a little oil, over slices of fresh mozzarella or on hard-cooked eggs. Makes ¾ cup
black olive relish
Use pitted Niçoise, Kalamata, or wrinkly oil-cured olives, or a combination. If making a coarse-chopped version, consider adding minced red onion and chopped fresh marjoram.
1 cup pitted black olives (see headnote)
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed and roughly chopped (optional)
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
Put the olives, garlic, anchovies (if using), and capers in a food processor and pulse for a minute or two, until you have a rough paste (or process longer for a smoother paste). Add the red pepper flakes (if using), red wine vinegar, and olive oil and pulse to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
green olive relish
Lemon and thyme add brightness, and parsley and scallions reinforce the “greenness.” Use briny green olives, such as French Picholine or Italian Bella di Cerignola.
1 cup pitted green olives
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed and roughly chopped (optional)
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon slivered scallion
Pinch of cayenne
Salt and pepper
Put the olives, garlic, anchovies (if using), and capers in a food processor and pulse for a minute or two, until you have a rough paste (or process longer for a smoother paste). Add the lemon zest, thyme, and olive oil and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl.
Stir in the parsley, scallion, and cayenne. Season to taste with salt and pepper.