pleasure in small bites
Even if I always claim to never have had much of a sweet tooth, I’ll admit to enjoying a few bites of dessert. It doesn’t have to be gargantuan; in fact, small desserts always seem more special somehow. Nor must a dessert be rich. Serving some kind of fruit (fresh or dried) and offering a plate of cookies is really all that’s necessary for an elegant ending. If it’s berries, who could say no to a dollop of whipped cream (just beaten to very soft peaks and not too sweet)? With dessert wine or coffee, another option is to end with something dessert-like, but not a dessert per se, like Espresso-Hazelnut Bark, the Sweet-and-Salty Nut Brittle, or an assortment of diminutive one-bite treats. It’s also nice to enjoy something sweet in the afternoon, even making a bit of a ritual of it: I find the little Brown Butter Almond Cakes or the intense, sugary Golden Coconut Cookies are best that way.
I am far from a chocoholic, which puts me in a definite minority at most gatherings. I do, however, appreciate the occasional small nugget, especially if it’s on the bitter side. This bark, with its roasty, dark undertones, is a pleasure to pass around the table. Makes about 1 pound
3 ounces (about ½ cup) raw hazelnuts
½ ounce (¼ cup) espresso beans
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt (optional)
Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast until well browned and fragrant, 10 to 15 minutes (the skins should look nearly burnt). Put the hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel and rub briskly to remove the skins. Coarsely chop the nuts. Lightly crush the espresso beans with a rolling pin.
In a double boiler, slowly melt 6 ounces of the chocolate, stirring occasionally until the mixture is smooth. Make sure to keep the heat low, to prevent any moisture or steam from touching the chocolate. When it is completely melted, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 ounces of chocolate. Pour onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spreading the chocolate to a ¼-inch thickness. Sprinkle the hazelnuts evenly over the surface. Repeat with the crushed espresso beans and the sea salt, if using. Refrigerate, uncovered, until completely hardened.
Break into rough pieces to serve.
During the cool months, dates make a nice option for a post-meal sweet. Though simple, they somehow seem luxurious, and I always love eating foods that have been cultivated and treasured for thousands of years. There are many kinds of dates to choose from, but the most commonly available are Deglet Noor, semisweet and firm, and the plump, moist Medjool. In the autumn, you can sometimes get fresh Barhee dates on the branch. Middle Eastern groceries are a good place to buy an assortment of dates and discover which you like best. Adorning a sweet date with a rich filling may seem like gilding the lily, and it is, but you’ll be satisfied with only one or two. Serves 6
cream-filled dates
½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream (see Note)
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
12 large dates
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped pistachios
Whip the crème fraîche with the sugar in a small bowl until it has the texture of thick yogurt. Stir in the orange and lemon zest.
Split the dates lengthwise with a paring knife and remove the pits. Put a generous spoonful of flavored cream in each hollow. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios.
Note: You can substitute mascarpone, ricotta, or even softened goat cheese for the cream.
almond paste dates
½ cup blanched almonds (see Note)
¼ cup granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus a pinch
1 tablespoon orange flower water
1 tablespoon Demerara sugar or coarse raw sugar
12 large dates
Put the almonds, granulated sugar, and ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon in a food processor and grind until the mixture resembles fine cornmeal. Add the orange flower water and pulse to incorporate.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and knead for a minute, or until it resembles a soft dough; add a few drops of water if necessary. Roll the paste into twelve ½-inch balls, then flatten into almond-shaped ovals. Split the dates lengthwise with a paring knife and remove the pits. Stuff each date with an oval of almond paste and put them on a serving platter.
Mix the Demerara sugar with the pinch of cinnamon in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the dates and serve.
Note: To make blanched almonds, drop whole raw natural almonds into boiling water and let steep for 1 minute. Drain, and let cool slightly, then pop the almonds from their skins.
Candied citrus peel is easy to make at home, and, no slight meant to lemons or oranges, grapefruit peel is my hands-down favorite. Fresh grapefruit juice is a bonus part of this project, which is best completed over several days. Makes about 2 cups
6 organic grapefruits
3 cups sugar, plus more for storing the peel
2 cups water
Wash and dry the grapefruits. Halve and juice them, reserving the juice for another time, then scrape out the pulp and discard it. Place the rinds in a large stainless steel pot, cover with 6 cups cold water, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer briskly until firm-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, then repeat the process with fresh water. Turn off the heat and let the rinds cool in the liquid overnight (this allows them to soften without being overcooked).
The next day, drain and blot dry the rinds. Slice them into strips approximately ¼ inch wide and 2 inches long. Place the strips in a 2-quart stainless steel saucepan, add 2 cups of the sugar and the 2 cups water, and bring to a boil, stirring. Turn down the heat and let simmer until the strips become translucent, about 1 hour. Let cool to room temperature.
Carefully remove the strips (reserve the syrup for another purpose, such as in drinks or as a glaze for baked goods) and spread them out on a metal rack set over a baking sheet. Let dry overnight.
Toss the grapefruit peel with the remaining 1 cup sugar to coat. Store, packed in the sugar, in the refrigerator.
This caramelized nut brittle is a bit addictive. Nearly any nut can be a candidate for a one-nut version, but a mixture of nuts, or even seeds, like sesame or pumpkin, makes it more interesting, and a final sprinkling of sea salt adds an especially pleasing note. Break off pieces to serve as after-dinner sweets or with tea or coffee. It can also become a dessert topping, coarsely crushed and crumbled over ice cream. Serves 6
2 tablespoons butter, softened, for the baking sheet
2 cups sugar
1 cup water
½ cup sliced almonds
½ cup pecan halves
½ cup coarsely chopped pistachios
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
Generously butter a 10-by-15-inch baking sheet and set aside. Put the sugar in a 2-quart stainless steel saucepan and slowly add the water, taking care not to splash. Stir just to dissolve the sugar, then bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Let the liquefied sugar simmer until it begins to take on a little color, about 5 minutes. Continue to simmer, without stirring, until the caramel turns a reddish brown. Remove immediately from the heat (work carefully and quickly, as the caramel will continue to darken from retained heat), and stir in the almonds, pecans, pistachios, and sesame seeds. Pour the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with the sea salt and leave the brittle to firm up.
When the brittle is cool, invert to remove it from the pan. Break into pieces and store in an airtight container.
A good granita that’s not too sweet and tastes of real fruit is intensely satisfying. The technique is simple: Fresh fruit juice is sweetened to taste, perhaps with the addition of a few drops of liqueur, then left to freeze, preferably overnight, before it is roughly chopped. There is an ideal moment, in my mind anyway, when the texture of the granita is perfect—not too hard and not too slushy. A glug of Champagne or cava poured over can make it even more impressive. Serves 4 to 6
½ cup sugar
3 cups tangerine juice (from about 3 pounds tangerines)
Juice of 2 large limes
2 tablespoons orange liqueur or kirsch
Champagne or cava (optional)
Put the sugar in a medium bowl and whisk with 1 cup of the tangerine juice until thoroughly dissolved. Stir in the rest of the tangerine juice, the lime juice, and orange liqueur and mix well.
Pour the mixture into a storage container so it comes to a depth of 1 inch and cover it, or pour into a zippered plastic freezer bag and seal well. Freeze for at least 4 hours, or, preferably, overnight.
To serve, chop the frozen mixture roughly with a metal spatula, then spoon into glasses or bowls. Top with a little chilled Champagne if you wish.
The Spanish name of these cookies, cocadas doradas, sounds like a very short poem. I first tasted them in a bare-bones family-run bakery in rural Mexico. They had been baked in a homemade horno (a clay oven), on hand-hammered cookie sheets made from old license plates. Shredded coconut, piloncillo (a Mexican unrefined sugar), and egg white are the only ingredients. Bake just long enough to crisp and burnish the exterior so the center remains chewy. Makes 24 cookies
2 cups shredded dried unsweetened coconut
¾ cup packed light brown sugar or piloncillo
½ teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites
Heat the oven to 350°F. Put the coconut in a bowl, cover with boiling water, and steep for 10 minutes. Drain, cool, and squeeze dry.
Put the coconut, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse until the coconut is coarsely chopped. Beat the egg whites until just frothy, then add to the mixture. Pulse briefly to combine.
Form the coconut mixture into 1½-inch balls and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving 1 inch space between them. Pinch each ball to form a slightly pointed top. Bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Leave on the parchment until completely cooled.
These crisp and spicy cookies are perfect for dunking in coffee or wine. Make the dough a day ahead and refrigerate it, so it’s firm enough to slice. Or have a batch in the freezer, ready to slice and bake when the mood strikes. Makes 36 cookies
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, softened
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup molasses
2 teaspoons grated ginger
1 large egg, plus 1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon brandy
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
2 cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
¼ cup finely chopped candied ginger, plus more for topping
Put the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in a large bowl. Using a handheld mixer, beat together until creamy. Beat in the molasses, grated ginger, egg, egg yolk, brandy, and orange zest until well combined.
Sift together the flour, baking powder, ground ginger, cinnamon, and black pepper. Slowly add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, stirring just enough to incorporate. Fold in the candied ginger and chill the mixture until firm.
Put the dough on a floured surface and knead into a long log approximately 2 inches in diameter. Cut the log in half and wrap each half tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least several hours, or overnight.
Heat the oven to 375°F. With a sharp thin-bladed knife, cut the dough into ¼-inch slices and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving ½-inch space in between them. Sprinkle with a little more candied ginger. Bake for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool on a rack.
In the style of the French delicacies called financiers, these little cakes are made from freshly ground almonds and lightly browned butter, which complements the good almond flavor. They are more appropriately served with tea or coffee than after a meal. The batter is no trouble to whip up, and you can make them any size you like, even bite-sized. Makes 12 small or 24 tiny cakes
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus butter for greasing the molds
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup light brown sugar
¾ cup (4 ounces) natural (unblanched) whole almonds
3 large eggs, beaten
1½ teaspoons almond extract
1 tablespoon rum
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
Heat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a standard muffin tin (or 2 mini-muffin tins).
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let cook until it foams and turns a nut-brown color. Set aside to cool.
Put the two sugars and the almonds in a food processor and grind until the almonds are pulverized, about 1 minute. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add the eggs, almond extract, rum, and browned butter and stir to combine. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Gradually stir into the almond-egg mixture, then beat to a smooth batter with a whisk or wooden spoon.
For a standard muffin tin, use 2 tablespoons batter per cake (or 1 tablespoon apiece for a mini tin). Rap the tin on a countertop to level the batter and remove any air bubbles.
Bake for 12 minutes (10 minutes for the tiny cakes), until lightly browned. Leave in the tin for 2 minutes, then unmold the cakes and cool them on a rack.
Although a dried fig may never recapture the juiciness of its ripe state, try this for a winter dessert: start with fat golden Turkish figs, and simmer them in honey and sweet wine, along with thyme and coriander. In the herb-scented syrup, the figs become plump and succulent.
Serve them in small portions—a couple of figs per person is just enough. This method works well with other dried fruits, especially apricots. Serves 4 to 6
12 large dried Turkish figs
2 cups sweet white wine, such as Muscat or Tokaji (Tokay)
½ cup mild honey
½ cup sugar
Several fresh thyme sprigs or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Juice of ½ lemon
Put the figs in a bowl, cover with boiling water, and let soften for 30 minutes. Drain, then transfer the figs to a stainless steel saucepan. Add the wine, honey, and sugar, and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the honey. Add the thyme and coriander and let simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the figs steep for at least several hours, preferably overnight.
With a slotted spoon, place the figs in a shallow serving bowl. Stir the lemon juice into the remaining syrup (strain the syrup, if desired). Spoon the syrup over the figs. Serve at room temperature.
It’s exciting when piles of bright orange persimmons hit the markets. Squat round Fuyu persimmons are the ones to eat raw, all throughout the fall and winter. No need to wait for them to ripen—eat them firm, peeled, then sliced or wedged. With their sweet musky flavor, they make a lovely salad, combined with other fruits such as oranges and pomegranates, quite refreshing served after a meal.
Note that the larger elongated, pointy Hachiya persimmons must be used fully ripe, so they are unsuitable for this salad. Serves 4 to 6
2 large navel oranges or 4 blood oranges
2 medium Fuyu persimmons
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon orange flower water or orange liqueur
1 tablespoon chopped pistachios (optional)
With a serrated knife, carefully peel the oranges, leaving no white pith. Slice the oranges crosswise into ¼-inch discs.
Using a paring knife, cut around the calyx (top part) of the persimmons with a twisting motion and discard. Peel the persimmons with the knife or a vegetable peeler. Cut each persimmon into 6 or 8 wedges.
Arrange the orange slices on a small platter, then arrange the persimmon wedges on top. Sprinkle evenly with the sugar and orange flower water, and garnish with chopped pistachios, if desired.
Variations
Fuyu persimmons can be used in savory autumn and winter salads too—with watercress, walnuts, and goat cheese, for instance. Use them as you would pears.
In classic French bistros, in addition to crème brûlée and tarte Tatin, you can usually get a dessert of fromage blanc, a freshly made soft, pure-white cheese. It’s brought to the table with a shaker of superfine sugar and maybe a few berries, fraises des bois if you’re lucky (or it can be eaten with salt and pepper instead, like good cottage cheese). It is a divine little treat. While fromage blanc is widely available in France, that’s not the case here. Good ultrafresh ricotta makes a perfect substitute. Serves 6
¾ pound (12 ounces) firm fresh ricotta (see Note)
½ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon milk (if necessary)
Berries (optional)
2 tablespoons superfine or turbinado sugar, for sprinkling
Rinse 6 small glasses (shot glasses work well) with cold water. Pack each glass with 2 ounces of the ricotta. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
To serve, invert each glass over a dessert plate. The cheese should unmold easily. Beat the crème fraîche lightly with a spoon to liquefy it, adding a little milk if necessary. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of crème fraîche over each serving.
Garnish each plate with a few berries, if desired. Sprinkle the sugar over the cheese and berries, or pass the sugar at the table.
Note: Freshly made ricotta may be purchased at Italian groceries or better cheese stores. Use it immediately, since it turns sour quickly if stored. Shun the commercially produced ricotta sold in most supermarket dairy cases—it usually lacks flavor and has additives as well. If you do find good ricotta or fromage blanc and the texture is too soft to hold a shape when molded, drain it in cheesecloth overnight or serve it in little ramekins instead.