Mango Launji

There is a popular drink in India called aam panna—a refreshing combo of super-sour unripe mangoes, sugar, and spices meant to guard against heat stroke. Here all those ingredients instead make a chunky, stew-like, sweet-and-tangy chutney that probably won’t help with heat stroke but will certainly liven up a pork chop or piece of toast. I first tried this phenomenal sauce at my great-aunt’s house. I was slightly hungover and it was New Year’s Day, and eating mango launji on puri (a type of fried bread) BROUGHT ME BACK TO LIFE. The recipe is dead simple once you’ve got the spices (and if you’re missing one or two, that’s totally fine). Also, if you can’t track down green mangoes at the Indian store, those kinda shitty firm unripe mangoes on offer at most commercial grocers will get the job done. Want even more tartness? Decrease the brown sugar, and sub in cored and peeled Granny Smith apples for the mangoes.

Makes 3 cups

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
• ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
• ¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
• ¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
• ¼ teaspoon nigella seeds
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• ¼ teaspoon asafetida (optional, but really great)
• 1 small Indian green chile or serrano chile, finely chopped
• 3 medium green (unripe) mangoes, peeled and diced into ¾-inch pieces (see Tip, below), pits discarded
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

1  In a medium pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat, warm the oil, then add the fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, and nigella seeds. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the fennel, fenugreek, and cumin seeds turn a darker shade of brown and start to sputter (watch the cumin—that’s the best indicator). As soon as this happens, add the turmeric, asafetida (if using), and chile. Give everything a quick stir, then stir in the mangoes and salt. Add 1½ cups water and raise the heat to high to bring the mixture to a boil.

2  Once the mixture reaches a boil, lower the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring every 10 minutes to scrape up any bits that might be stuck to the bottom. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes, until the mango softens and becomes mushy, with a texture resembling chunky applesauce. Add the brown sugar and mix well. Remove from the heat.

3  Transfer to a medium container and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before eating. This sauce keeps, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.

tip: To peel the mangoes, slice the tops off and use a paring knife or potato peeler to peel the sides. To chop, place your knife about ¼ inch from the center and cut the cheeks off all four sides of the mango around the pit, then cut those cheeks into pieces.