Chapter 6
Sautéing
In This Chapter
Choosing your fat: Butter versus oil
Deglazing to make great sauces
Sautéing vegetables, fish, chicken, and steak
Recipes in This Chapter
T Sautéed Skillet Potatoes
T Red Pepper Purée
Tuna Steaks with Ginger-Chili Glaze
Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tomatoes and Thyme
Lemon-Rubbed Chicken with Rosemary
Steak au Poivre
Sautéing, also referred to as pan frying, is generally associated with French cuisine. But in fact, many other nationalities sauté routinely to sear steaks, cook fillets of fish, glaze vegetables, and quick-cook shellfish.
Sautéing is nothing more than cooking food in a hot pan, usually with a little fat (butter or oil, for example) to prevent sticking. Sautéing imparts a crispy texture to foods and brings out all sorts of flavors from herbs and spices.
If you drop a steak onto a roaring-hot pan (maybe with a little oil to prevent sticking), it develops a dark crust in a few minutes. This effect is desirable because it intensifies any seasonings on the surface of the meat and gives it a pleasant crunchy texture. (Contrary to popular belief, sautéing has nothing to do with locking in meat juices. Cookbooks say this all the time, but it’s not the case.) Seafood and vegetables glazed with butter benefit from sautéing in the same way; sautéing gives them texture and flavor.
The French word sauté translates literally as “to jump.” Chefs shake the sauté pan back and forth over the heat, tossing the food to expose it evenly to the heat. You can actually practice this technique in a cold skillet with small candies! (Just do it when no one’s watching.)
Because sautéing is done at high or medium-high heat, you have to be careful to keep your eye on the ball because food can burn in two seconds flat.
In this chapter, we discuss sautéing and provide some helpful tips and delicious recipes. Also be sure to visit www.dummies.com/go/sauteing.
Knowing When to Use Oil or Butter
When you sauté something, even in a nonstick pan, you need to use some kind of fat. But which one — butter or oil? Each is best suited for different kinds of sautéing:
When cooking over very high heat, use oil, which is less likely to burn.
When sautéing with medium-high heat, you may opt for butter, which adds a nice flavor. However, the milk solids in the butter can burn, or brown, affecting the color and taste of your food.
Typically, meats are sautéed in oil because they need a higher heat, while vegetables are sautéed in butter to impart a pleasant buttery flavor. Seafood may be sautéed in either one. Many chefs opt to use half butter and half oil when sautéing seafood: They get the benefit of the buttery flavor, but the added oil helps to keep the butter from burning as easily.
If you decide to use oil in your sautéing, it’s helpful to know that some oils have a higher smoke point than others, which means they start to smoke at a hotter temperature (and so are preferable for sautéing). Good oils for sautéing include canola, corn, and peanut oil. If the recipe doesn’t specify what type of oil to use, go with one of these three neutral-flavored oils.
Just like the professionals do, you can prevent butter from burning in a sauté pan by adding a few drops of vegetable oil or any neutral-tasting oil.
Oil alone should be hot but not smoking in the pan before you add food. Butter alone should foam at its edges but not brown. Some chefs insist on using only clarified butter when sautéing because it won’t burn as quickly but retains the buttery flavor. (Clarified butter, called ghee in Indian cuisine, has been heated to separate out the milk solids, which are skimmed off, making it more like cooking oil with a higher smoke point.) Clarified butter is easy to make and lasts several months or more in the refrigerator. Here’s how to make it:
1. Put one pound of unsalted butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Do not stir. Allow the butter to melt. It will begin to foam. Let it continue to cook and foam without stirring until the foaming stops. The milk solids will fall to the bottom of the pan and turn golden brown.
2. When the butter begins to smell nutty and turns deeper gold (after about 20 minutes), remove it from the heat. Let it cool for 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Pour the butter through a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a glass container, and cover. Discard the solids.
Clarified butter will keep for one year, in or out of the refrigerator.
Making Great Sauce from Bits in the Pan: Deglazing
A very hot sauté pan begins to cook meat, poultry, or fish right away, browning the juices that flow from it and leaving bits of food sticking to the bottom of the pan. These browned bits are loaded with flavor. If deglazed (moistened and scraped up) in the pan, they become transformed into a delicious sauce.
Just follow these easy steps, illustrated in Figure 6-1, if you want to deglaze:
Figure 6-1: Deglazing a pan enables you to intensify the flavor of your sauce.
1. Remove the meat, poultry, or fish from the pan onto a serving platter and immediately add liquid — you can use water, wine, stock, or a combination.
The liquid should be twice the amount of sauce you want to make. For example, if you want to make 1 cup of sauce, add 2 cups of wine.
As a rule, the wine you use for deglazing depends on what you’re sautéing: Use white wine for poultry and seafood, and red wine for meat.
2. Raise the heat to high, bringing the liquid to a boil while you stir and scrape the browned bits off the bottom of the pan until they dissolve into the sauce.
This stirring and scraping is the key to deglazing — all those delicious little caramelized bits of cooked meat infuse the liquid, making it taste fantastic.
3. Keep boiling and stirring until the sauce is reduced by half the volume or, in other words, until those 2 cups of wine (or water or broth) have boiled down to about 1 cup.
How can you tell? Just eyeball it. When it looks like you have half as much liquid as you did, it’s time to take a taste.
And the verdict? Does your sauce taste delicious, or does it need more salt and/or pepper? Maybe a dash of fresh herbs? Add more seasoning if you think the sauce needs more flavor. You might also stir in a teaspoon or more of butter just before you drizzle it over your main course — this adds a smooth texture.
Getting Versatile with Your Sautéing
You can sauté just about any meat, fish, or vegetable, so experiment and enjoy some delicious meals. Later in the chapter, we offer several recipes for sautéed veggies, fish, chicken, and beef. Here, we offer just a quick overview of how to sauté each.
Vegetables
Vegetables are excellent when boiled or steamed until about 90 percent done and then transferred to a skillet to be finished in butter and maybe fresh herbs. Many classic recipes for potatoes call for sautéing; thinly sliced raw potatoes are delicious when cooked this way. In the Sautéed Skillet Potatoes recipe later in the chapter (and featured in this book’s color section), you cut the potatoes into fine cubes and toss them in a hot pan until crispy.
Our Red Pepper Puree recipe later in the chapter (shown in the color section as well) also has you sautéing vegetables, but this time, you take an extra step after they’ve been cooked in the pan. As we note in Chapter 5, vegetable purees make wonderful side dishes or toppings for meat, poultry, or fish. After you’ve sautéed the red peppers, onions, and garlic called for in this recipe, you simply toss them in a blender with a few additional ingredients, let the blender work its magic, and enjoy a beautiful and tasty puree. To make this recipe, you first need to know how to seed and core a red pepper; Figure 6-2 can help.
Figure 6-2: Removing the seeds and core from a pepper.
Be very careful when you put rinsed vegetables (or other foods) into a pan of hot fat. The water that clings to the vegetables makes the fat splatter, which can cause serious burns. Always dry vegetables before sautéing.
Firm, rich fish
Rich fish — those with a high fat content, such as salmon, tuna, and bluefish — are exceptionally good when sautéed. And you can enhance them with countless sauces that you can make in 15 minutes or less (see Chapter 14). Because these fish have relatively high fat contents, they also stand up to spicy sauces. The recipe for Tuna Steaks with Ginger-Chili Glaze later in the chapter (and shown in the color section) is a perfect example.
Keep in mind that a spicy sauce paired with a delicate fish, like sole or snapper, can be a flop. In general, firm-fleshed fish (or fatty fish) stands up best to spiciness.
Chicken and turkey
Sautéing is a great way to impart flavor to poultry. It stays juicy with a flavorful outside, especially with the addition of different herbs and spices. Sautéing is particularly good with the chicken or turkey’s skin left on. You can also make a delicious sauce with the leftover oil (or butter) and herbs in the pan by adding wine, juice, or chicken broth to the pan after cooking the poultry and reducing the liquid to concentrate the flavor. Want to try some wonderful recipes to see what we mean? Check out the Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tomatoes and Thyme later in the chapter (which is also featured in the book’s color section), as well as the Lemon-Rubbed Chicken with Rosemary.
Beef
Beef is excellent for sautéing. Try the terrific Steak au Poivre recipe later in the chapter if you want proof! It’s our version of one of the most popular beef dishes in restaurants in which beef is coated liberally with cracked black pepper before it’s cooked in a hot pan. (You don’t know how to make cracked black pepper? No problem! Check out Figure 6-3. Here’s a tip: To prevent peppercorns from flying all over the place when you crush them, wrap them first in aluminum foil. And be sure to crush them shortly before cooking to get the most potency from the pepper.)
Figure 6-3: Crushing peppercorns with a heavy pan.
The doneness of steaks is defined by the meat’s interior color. Rare meat is bright red and juicy. Medium meat has a light pink center with light brown edges. Well-done, which we don’t recommend, is brown-gray and dry throughout.
Sautéed Skillet Potatoes
Prep time: About 15 min • Cook time: About 20 min • Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
2 large baking potatoes, about 11⁄2 pounds total
1⁄4 cup canola or corn oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1⁄2 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon or less of salt
Few dashes black pepper
1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or red pepper flakes (optional)
Directions
1 Cut any eyes and bad spots out of the potatoes. Scrub them with a vegetable brush to remove dirt, but leave them unpeeled. Cut each into cubes of about 1⁄4 inch.
2 Place the cubes in a colander in the sink. Run very hot water over the potatoes for about 10 seconds to remove the starch. Drain well and dry on paper towels.
3 Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring often, for about 10 minutes.
4 With a slotted spoon, remove the potatoes from the pan to a large bowl. Remove the oil from the skillet, and wipe the skillet with paper towels.
5 Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat.
6 Sauté the onion, bell pepper, oregano, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, if desired. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 5 minutes until the vegetables begin to get soft.
7 Add the potatoes back into the skillet and sauté everything together until the potatoes are browned and crisp, about 5 more minutes. Serve immediately.
Per serving: Calories 325 (From Fat 180); Fat 20g (Saturated 5g); Cholesterol 15mg; Sodium 307mg; Carbohydrate 35g (Dietary Fiber 4g); Protein 4g.
Go-With: These potatoes are a delicious side dish to omelets (see Chapter 11), Roasted Fillet of Beef (see Chapter 8), or Roasted Loin of Pork (see Chapter 8).
Red Pepper Purée
Prep time: 10 min • Cook time: About 20 min • Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 medium red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped
1⁄4 cup chopped red onion
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced or put through a garlic press
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon fresh chopped or 1 teaspoon dried cilantro
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
Few dashes black pepper
Directions
1 Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat until you begin to smell the oil, about 3 minutes.
2 Add the peppers, onion, and garlic. Sauté until they are soft but not browned, about 15 minutes.
3 Put the vegetables in a food processor with the paprika, cilantro, and lemon juice. Process until smooth, about 15 seconds.
4 Stir in the salt and pepper, and serve warm.
Per serving: Calories 42 (From Fat 22); Fat 2g (Saturated 0g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 196mg; Carbohydrate 5g (Dietary Fiber 1g); Protein 1g.
Tip: If you make this dish in advance, you can warm it up for about 15 to 30 seconds in the microwave or for about 5 minutes in a saucepan over low heat on the stove.
Vary It! Try mixing this purée with a little cream or half-and-half and serve over pasta.
Go-With: This purée brightens up any mild meat or fish, or try it on baked potatoes or steamed asparagus.
Tuna Steaks with Ginger-Chili Glaze
Prep time: About 15 min • Cook time: About 15 min • Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
4 tuna steaks, each about 6 to 7 ounces and 3⁄4 inch thick
Few dashes of salt and pepper for each steak
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup white wine or white grape juice
1 tablespoon red chili paste
1⁄2 teaspoon dried ground ginger
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
Directions
1 Season both sides of the tuna steaks with salt and pepper. Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a nonstick skillet or sauté pan large enough to hold the steaks in one layer.
2 Add the tuna to the pan and cook until lightly browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
3 Transfer the steaks to a warm platter and cover with foil. Leave the cooking butter in the skillet and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits clinging to the pan.
4 Add the wine or grape juice, turn up the heat to high, and cook until about half the liquid in the pan evaporates (less than a minute).
5 Lower the heat to medium. Add the chili paste, ginger, brown sugar, and sesame oil. Stir continuously until the ingredients are well combined.
6 Add the tuna steaks (and any of their juices on the platter) back into the pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 1 minute or until warmed through, turning once to coat the steaks in the glaze. Do not overcook.
7 Using a flat metal spatula, remove each tuna steak to an individual plate. Spoon a little of the sauce over each serving and serve immediately.
Per serving: Calories 274 (From Fat 96); Fat 11g (Saturated 4g); Cholesterol 89mg; Sodium 305mg; Carbohydrate 4g (Dietary Fiber 0g); Protein 38g.
Tip: If you don’t have a pan big enough to cook all the tuna steaks at once, use a smaller skillet and cook the tuna in batches. If you do so, be sure to save enough sauce for all the steaks.
Tip: Find red chili paste with the Asian food ingredients in your grocery store.
Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Tomatoes and Thyme
Prep time: About 20 min • Cook time: About 15 min • Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1⁄4 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoons chopped fresh or 2 teaspoons dried basil (optional)
1⁄3 cup white wine or chicken stock
Directions
1 Place the chicken breasts on a cutting board, season generously on both sides with salt and pepper, cover with waxed paper, and pound them lightly so that they’re of equal thickness. (Use the bottom of a heavy pan or a meat mallet.)
2 Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and sauté for about 4 to 5 minutes per side or until done. Remove the pieces to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm.
3 Add the onion to the pan over medium heat. Stir for 1 minute, scraping the bottom of the pan. Add the garlic, stirring occasionally for another minute. Add the tomatoes, thyme, basil (if desired), and salt and pepper to taste. Stir for 1 minute.
4 Add the wine or stock, increase the heat to high, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 to 3 minutes until most of the liquid evaporates. (You want moist, not soupy.)
5 Place the chicken on four plates. Spoon equal portions of sauce over each piece.
Per serving: Calories 170 (From Fat 47); Fat 5g (Saturated 1g); Cholesterol 63mg; Sodium 203mg; Carbohydrate 6g (Dietary Fiber 1g); Protein 24g.
Vary It! You can modify this recipe in many ways. For example, use turkey breasts or slices of veal instead of chicken; add 1 cup fresh, frozen, or canned corn kernels with the chopped tomatoes; add 2 tablespoons heavy cream with the stock or wine; substitute tarragon, marjoram, or other herb of choice for the thyme; or grate some Parmesan cheese over the top of each serving.
Lemon-Rubbed Chicken with Rosemary
Prep time: 10 min • Cook time: 35–40 min • Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
4 whole chicken legs, with drumsticks, trimmed of excess fat (about 11⁄2 to 2 pounds)
2 lemons, quartered
11⁄2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves (or 3 teaspoons dried)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
5 tablespoons chicken broth or water
Directions
1 Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. With a large knife, separate the drumsticks from the thighs.
2 Rub the chicken pieces with four of the lemon wedges. Squeeze juice from those wedges over the pieces. Season with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary).
3 In a 10-inch fry pan over medium-high heat, cook the chicken pieces , skin side down, until golden brown,7 to 10 minutes. Flip the chicken pieces and squeeze remaining lemon juice over them.
4 Reduce to medium-low heat and cook, covered, for 25 to 30 minutes or until the meat in the center along the bone is no longer pink. Transfer to serving plates.
5 Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Add garlic and remaining rosemary. Cook for 45 seconds to a minute (the garlic should be barely golden — do not let it burn).
6 Add the chicken broth or water. Scrape the dark bits clinging to the bottom of the pan and cook about 45 seconds, stirring. Drizzle over the chicken.
Per serving: Calories 551 (From Fat 339); Fat 38g (Saturated 9g); Cholesterol 161mg; Sodium 313mg; Carbohydrate 6g (Dietary Fiber 1g); Protein 46g.
Tip: To separate drumsticks from thighs, place the chicken pieces on a cutting board, fat side down; use your finger to locate the joint between the thigh and the drumstick and cut through.
Steak au Poivre
Prep time: About 5 min • Cook time: 10–15 min • Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
4 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 trimmed boneless strip steaks, each about 11⁄2 inches thick; about 11⁄2 pounds total
4 tablespoons minced shallots or white onions
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons brandy (optional)
3⁄4 cup dry red wine
1⁄4 cup fresh or canned beef stock
1 teaspoon tomato paste
Directions
1 Crush peppercorns with a mortar and pestle, with a pepper grinder on very coarse setting, or with the bottom of a heavy skillet on a very hard surface.
2 Lay the steaks over the peppercorns to coat on all sides. Pat in the pepper with your hand.
3 Lightly oil a heavy skillet (cast iron is best) and heat to nearly smoking. Lay the steaks in the pan and quickly sear both sides (1 minute per side).
4 Reduce heat to medium high and cook for 5 to 7 minutes per side for medium rare. (Check doneness by making a small cut in the thickest part of the meat with a paring knife.) Transfer the steaks to a dish.
5 Over medium heat add the shallots or onions and 1 tablespoon of butter. Cook for a minute and add the brandy (if desired) and red wine.
6 Scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to remove bits of meat clinging to the pan. Reduce liquid to half its volume.
7 Add the stock and tomato paste, stirring. Reduce the liquid by roughly one-third.
8 Add remaining butter and stir constantly until it melts. Season to taste. Serve immediately over the steaks.
Per serving: Calories 469 (From Fat 315); Fat 35g (Saturated 16g); Cholesterol 124mg; Sodium 145mg; Carbohydrate 6g (Dietary Fiber 2g); Protein 31g.
Tip: Four tablespoons of peppercorns make for a wonderfully hot and spicy sauce, but if you prefer a milder sauce, use only 2 to 3 tablespoons.
Go-With: Serve this dish with a side of Homemade Mashed Potatoes (see Chapter 5).