Makes about 6 half-pint jars
Chutneys are savory fruit-based spreads often used in Indian cuisine. Here, apples are perfumed with commanding winter spices. This fragrant chutney has a bit of a heat from red pepper flakes and cayenne pepper. Cider apples make the best chutney, as they are tart and firm and hold their shape after cooking.
SUGGESTED VARIETIES: If you can’t find cider apples, substitute another firm apple like Granny Smith or the English variety Bramley’s Seedling.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds cider apples, cored and cut into small dice
12 whole cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoon mustard seeds, coarsely ground
2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger
½ cup raisins
1 cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup brown sugar
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and salt and sauté until the onion starts to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the apples and sauté until they start to brown, another 10 to 12 minutes. Add all of the spices, ginger, and raisins, stirring for 2 minutes to incorporate. Add the apple cider vinegar and brown sugar. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the mixture is thick and the apples are very soft but still hold their shape, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Fill clean, sterilized jars with chutney, leaving ½ inch head space. Using a damp, clean towel, wipe the rims of the jars, and top them with lids and rings, being sure not to tighten the rings all the way. Leave a bit of torque so air bubbles can escape. Process in a water bath for 10 minutes. Remove the jars with tongs and let them all cool on the counter. Once the jars are cool, make sure the seals are secure. Sealed jars may be stored in a cool dark cupboard for up to 1 year.
Apple cider vinegar is a soft, round vinegar that is slightly sweet. Perfect for dressing salads or using in pickles, this vinegar lacks the hard bite of traditional white vinegar. Apple cider vinegar is also a decent replacement for lemons when you don’t have any around, and works well in a gravy or sauce.
It is fairly easy to make your own apple cider vinegar at home. You can use scraps from apples—the cores and skins make great starters. Use the scraps from apple pie or Green Apple Pectin (see here) and you’re off to a good start. Of course, you can use whole apples, as well; just be sure to choose ripe ones, as they have a higher sugar content than unripe apples. Choosing bruised apples, called seconds, at the farmers’ market is an affordable option. This recipe forgoes any formal procuring of brewer’s yeast, casks, and equipment, and sticks to using materials found in most homes. Use a large nonreactive pot for this project—a large stainless-steel pot or a deep earthenware pot work well.
With vinegar-making, oxygen needs to be present—in order for alcohol to turn to vinegar, it needs air. Oxygen on a liquid’s surface will help bacteria in the process of converting alcohol to acetic acid, (the vinegar). You must watch for mold forming on the surface of your solution. Mold is an indication that the balance of acid to sugar is off; it generally will not form if the balance is right. In the event that mold presents itself on the apples’ surface, skim it off and keep an eye on the jar. If mold develops again, toss the batch and start over—something may be off with the batch.
Makes 4 to 8 cups
Scraps from 10 apples (cores and peels), or 5 whole apples, finely chopped
¼ cup sugar
4 cups water
Cheesecloth
Put the apple pieces in a large pot. Dissolve the sugar in the water and pour over the apple scraps; they should be covered completely. If they are not, make another mixture of 4 cups water and ¼ cup sugar and add to the pot, but only enough to cover apples.
Cover the top of the pot with 4 layers of thick cheesecloth secured with kitchen twine, and set it in a warm spot in the kitchen. The interior of a cupboard works well, as does a countertop. (If you’re making vinegar in summer, secure the cheesecloth tightly to prevent fruit flies from getting into the pot and laying eggs, which will spoil the batch.)
Leave the mixture for 1 week to macerate and ferment. The liquid may darken slightly and the apple mash will bubble—all signs of a good fermentation. After a week, strain out the apple mash from the liquid by setting it in a mesh strainer over a deep pot and allowing the mash to sit for 24 hours.
Return the apple liquid to the container and cover it again with a thick layer of cheesecloth. Put the container in a warm spot and let it sit for 2 to 3 weeks, allowing the sugars to convert to vinegar. Stir or swirl the liquid every few days, to allow for air circulation and oxygen.
After 2 weeks, taste a spoonful of your vinegar for doneness. If the vinegar still tastes fruity and not acidic enough, let it sit for another week and taste again. After 3 weeks total, the liquid should be completely converted to apple cider vinegar.
To store apple cider vinegar, strain the liquid with a fine mesh sieve and pour it into clean, sterilized glass bottles. Store vinegar in a cool, dark place. Do not use homemade vinegar in canned goods, as acidity levels vary with each batch. Apple cider vinegar keeps indefinitely.