Arcos smothers its long, narrow hilltop and tumbles down the back of the ridge like the train of a wedding dress. It’s larger than most other Andalusian hill towns, but equally atmospheric. Arcos consists of two towns: the fairy-tale old town on top of the hill and the fun-loving lower, or new, town. The old center is a labyrinthine wonderland, a photographer’s feast. Viewpoint-hop through town. Feel the wind funnel through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. Join the kids’ soccer game on the churchyard patio. Enjoy the moonlit view from the main square.
Though it tries, Arcos doesn’t have much to offer other than its basic whitewashed self. The locally produced English guidebook on Arcos waxes poetic and at length about very little. You can arrive late and leave early and still see it all.
The TI, on the main road leading up into the old town, is helpful and loaded with information, including bus schedules (Mon-Sat 9:30-14:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-14:00; Cuesta de Belén 5, tel. 956-702-264, www.turismoarcos.es).
On the floors above the TI is a skippable local history museum called Centro de Interpretación Ciudad de Arcos (CICA), with few artifacts and sparse exhibits described only in Spanish.
The TI organizes a one-hour walking tour, which includes a tour of CICA and a walk through the old town, learning about Arcos’ history, lifestyles, and Moorish influences. You also get a peek at a private courtyard patio (€4; Mon-Fri at 11:00 and 18:00—off-season at 17:00, Sat at 11:00, none on Sun, meet at TI, in Spanish and/or English; for private tours call TI).
By Bus: The bus station is on Calle Corregidores, at the foot of the hill. To get up to the old town, catch the shuttle bus marked Centro from inside the station (€1, pay driver, 2/hour, runs roughly Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-14:30, none on Sun), hop a taxi (€5 fixed rate; if there are no taxis waiting, call 956-704-640), or hike 20 uphill minutes (see map).
By Car: The old town is a tight squeeze with a one-way traffic flow from west to east (coming from the east, circle south under town). The TI and my recommended hotels are in the west. If you miss your target, you must drive out the other end, double back, and try again. Driving in Arcos is like threading needles (many drivers pull in their side-view mirrors to buy a few extra precious inches). Turns are tight, parking is frustrating, and congestion can lead to long jams.
Small cars can park in the main square of the old town at the top of the hill (Plaza del Cabildo). Buy a ticket from the machine (€0.70/hour, 2-hour maximum, only necessary Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00 and Sat 9:00-14:00—confirm times on machine).
It’s less stressful (and better exercise) to park in the modern underground pay lot at Plaza de España in the new town. From this lot, hike 15 minutes, or catch a taxi or the shuttle bus up to the old town (2/hour; as you’re looking uphill, the bus stop is to the right of the traffic circle).
The old town is easily walkable, but it’s fun and relaxing to take a circular minibus joyride. The little shuttle bus (also mentioned in “Arrival in Arcos,” above) constantly circles through the town’s one-way system and around the valley (€1, 2/hour, runs roughly Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-14:30, none on Sun). For a 30-minute tour, hop on. You can catch it just below the main church in the old town near the mystical stone circle (generally departs roughly at :20 and :50 past the hour). Sit in the front seat for the best view of the tight squeezes and the school kids hanging out in the plazas as you wind through the old town. After passing under a Moorish gate, you enter a modern residential neighborhood, circle under the eroding cliff, and return to the old town by way of the bus station and Plaza de España.
Internet Access: Most hotels have Wi-Fi for guests, and some also have Internet terminals. There’s no real Internet café in Arcos’ old town, but the TI has a terminal where you can pay to get online (€0.40 for 15 minutes, €1 for first hour, €0.20/hour after that).
Post Office: It’s at the lower end of the old town at Paseo de los Boliches 24, a few doors up from Hotel Los Olivos (Mon-Fri 8:30-14:30, Sat 9:30-13:00, closed Sun).
Money: There are no ATMs in the old town. To reach one, take the main street past the Church of Santa María toward Plaza de España; you’ll find several ATMs along Calle Corredera.
Viewpoint: For drivers, the best town overlook is from a tiny park just beyond the new bridge on the El Bosque road. In town, there are some fine viewpoints (for instance, from the main square), but the church towers are no longer open to the public.
This walk will introduce you to virtually everything worth seeing in Arcos.
• Start at the top of the hill, in the main square dominated by the church. (Avoid this walk during the hot midday siesta.)
Plaza del Cabildo: Stand at the viewpoint opposite the church on the town’s main square. Survey the square, which in the old days doubled as a bullring. On your right is the parador, a former palace of the governor. It flies three flags: green for Andalucía, red-and-yellow for Spain, and blue-and-yellow for the European Union. On your left are City Hall and the TI, below the 11th-century Moorish castle where Ferdinand and Isabel held Reconquista strategy meetings (castle privately owned and closed to the public).
Now belly up to the railing and look down. The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs of the birds as they fly. Ponder the parador’s erosion concerns (it lost part of its lounge in the 1990s when it dropped right off), the orderly orange groves, and fine views toward Morocco. The city council considered building an underground parking lot to clear up the square, but nixed it because of the land’s fragility. You’re 330 feet above the Guadalete River. This is the town’s suicide departure point for men (women jump from the other side).
• Looming over the square is the...
Church of Santa María: After Arcos was retaken from the Moors in the 13th century, this church was built atop a mosque. Notice the church’s fine but chopped-off bell tower. The old one fell in the earthquake of 1755 (famous for destroying Lisbon). The replacement was intended to be the tallest in Andalucía after Sevilla’s—but money ran out. It looks like someone lives on an upper floor. Someone does—the church guardian resides there in a room strewn with bell-ringing ropes.
Buy a ticket (€2, Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, shorter hours in winter, closed Sun and Jan-Feb), and step into the center, where you can see the beautifully carved choir. The organ was built in 1789 with that many pipes. At the very front of the church, the nice Renaissance high altar—carved in wood—covers up a Muslim prayer niche that survived from the older mosque. The altar shows God with a globe in his hand (on top), and scenes from the life of Jesus (on the right) and Mary (left). Circle the church counterclockwise and notice the elaborate chapels. Although most of the architecture is Gothic, the chapels are decorated in Baroque and Rococo styles. The ornate statues are used in Holy Week processions. Sniff out the “incorruptible body” (miraculously never rotting) of St. Felix—a third-century martyr (directly across from the entry). Felix may be nicknamed “the incorruptible,” but take a close look at his knee. He’s no longer skin and bones...just bones and the fine silver mesh that once covered his skin. Rome sent his body here in 1764, after recognizing this church as the most important in Arcos. In the back of the church, under a huge fresco of St. Christopher (carrying his staff and Baby Jesus), is a gnarly Easter candle from 1767.
• Back outside, examine the...
Church Exterior: Circle clockwise around the church, down four steps, to find the third-century Roman votive altar with a carving of the palm tree of life directly in front of you. Though the Romans didn’t build this high in the mountains, they did have a town and temple at the foot of Arcos. This carved stone was discovered in the foundation of the original Moorish mosque, which stood here before the first church was built.
Head down a few more steps and come to the main entrance (west portal) of the church (closed for restoration). This is a good example of Plateresque Gothic—Spain’s last and most ornate kind of Gothic.
In the pavement, notice the 15th-century magic circle with 12 red and 12 white stones—the white ones have various “constellations” marked (though they don’t resemble any of today’s star charts). When a child would come to the church to be baptized, the parents stopped here first for a good Christian exorcism. The exorcist would stand inside the protective circle and cleanse the baby of any evil spirits. While locals no longer do this (and a modern rain drain now marks the center), many Sufi Muslims still come here in a kind of pilgrimage every November. (Down a few more steps and 10 yards to the left, you can catch the public bus for a circular minibus joyride through Arcos; see “Getting Around Arcos,” earlier.)
Continuing along under the flying buttresses, notice the scratches of innumerable car mirrors on each wall (and be glad you’re walking). The buttresses were built to shore up the church when it was damaged by an earthquake in 1699. (Thanks to these supports, the church survived the bigger earthquake of 1755.) The security grille (over the window above) protected cloistered nuns when this building was a convent. Look at the arches that prop up the houses downhill on the left; all over town, arches support earthquake-damaged structures.
• Now make your way...
From the Church to the Market: Completing your circle around the church (huffing back uphill), turn left under more arches built to repair earthquake damage and walk east down the bright, white Calle Escribanos. From now to the end of this walk, you’ll basically follow this lane until you come to the town’s second big church (St. Peter’s). After a block, you hit Plaza Boticas.
On your right is the last remaining convent in Arcos. Notice the no-nunsense, spiky window grilles high above, with tiny peepholes in the latticework for the cloistered nuns to see through. Step into the lobby under the fine portico to find their one-way mirror and a spinning cupboard that hides the nuns from view. Push the buzzer, and one of the eight sisters (several are from Kenya and speak English well) will spin out some boxes of excellent, freshly baked cookies—made from pine nuts, peanuts, almonds, and other nuts—for you to consider buying (€6-7, open daily but not reliably 8:30-14:30 & 17:00-19:00; be careful—if you stand big and tall to block out the light, you can actually see the sister through the glass). If you ask for magdalenas, bags of cupcakes will swing around (€1.50). These are traditional goodies made from natural ingredients. Buy some goodies to support their church work, and give them to kids as you complete your walk.
The covered market (mercado) at the bottom of the plaza (down from the convent) resides in an unfinished church. At the entry, notice what is half of a church wall. The church was being built for the Jesuits, but construction stopped in 1767 when King Charles III, tired of the Jesuit appetite for politics, expelled the order from Spain. The market is closed on Sunday and Monday—they rest on Sunday, so there’s no produce, fish, or meat ready for Monday. Poke inside. It’s tiny but has everything you need. Pop into the servicio público (public WC)—no gender bias here.
• Continue straight down Calle Botica...
From the Market to the Church of St. Peter: As you walk, peek discreetly into private patios. These wonderful, cool-tiled courtyards filled with plants, pools, furniture, and happy family activities are typical of Arcos. Except in the mansions, these patios are generally shared by several families. Originally, each courtyard served as a catchment system, funneling rainwater to a drain in the middle, which filled the well. You can still see tiny wells in wall niches with now-decorative pulleys for the bucket.
On the left (at #11), look for Las Doce Campanas bakery, where Juan Miguel or Encarni sells traditional and delicious sultana cookies (€1.20 each). These big, dry macaroons (named for the wives of sultans) go back to Moorish times. At the next corner, squint back above the bakery to the corner of the tiled rooftop. The tiny stone—where the corner hits the sky—is a very eroded mask, placed here to scare evil spirits from the house. This is Arcos’ last surviving mask from a tradition that lasted until the mid-19th century.
Also notice the ancient columns on each corner. All over town, these columns—many actually Roman, appropriated from their original ancient settlement at the foot of the hill—were put up to protect buildings from reckless donkey carts and tourists in rental cars.
As you continue straight, notice that the walls are scooped out on either side of the windows. These are a reminder of the days when women stayed inside but wanted the best possible view of any people action in the streets. These “window ears” also enabled boys in a more modest age to lean inconspicuously against the wall to chat up eligible young ladies.
Across from the old facade ahead, find the Association of San Miguel. Duck right, past a bar, into the oldest courtyards in town—you can still see the graceful Neo-Gothic lines of this noble home from 1850. The bar is a club for retired men—always busy when a bullfight’s on TV or during card games. The guys are friendly, and drinks are cheap. You’re welcome to flip on the light and explore the old-town photos in the back room.
Just beyond, facing the elegant front door of that noble house, is Arcos’ second church, St. Peter’s (€1 donation, Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 15:30-18:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun). You know it’s St. Peter’s because St. Peter, mother of God, is the centerpiece of the facade. Let me explain. It really is the second church, having had an extended battle with Santa María for papal recognition as the leading church in Arcos. When the pope finally favored Santa María, St. Peter’s parishioners changed their prayers. Rather than honoring “María,” they wouldn’t even say her name. They prayed “St. Peter, mother of God.” Like Santa María, it’s a Gothic structure, filled with Baroque decor, many Holy Week procession statues, humble English descriptions, and relic skeletons in glass caskets (two from the third century A.D.).
In the cool of the evening, the tiny square in front of the church—about the only flat piece of pavement around—serves as the old-town soccer field for neighborhood kids. Until a few years ago, this church also had a resident bellman—notice the cozy balcony halfway up. He was a basket-maker and a colorful character, famous for bringing a donkey into his quarters, which grew too big to get back out. Finally, he had no choice but to kill and eat the donkey.
Twenty yards beyond the church, step into the nice Galería de Arte San Pedro, featuring artisans in action and their reasonably priced paintings and pottery. Walk inside. Find the water drain and the well.
Across the street, a sign directs you to Mirador—a tiny square 100 yards downhill that affords a commanding view of Arcos. The reservoir you see to the east of town is used for water sports in the summertime, and forms part of a power plant that local residents protested—to no avail—based on environmental concerns.
From the Church of St. Peter, circle down and around back to the main square, wandering the tiny neighborhood lanes. Just below St. Peter’s is a delightful little Andalusian garden (formal Arabic style, with aromatic plants such as jasmine, rose, and lavender, and water in the center). The lane called Higinio Capote, below Santa María, is particularly picturesque with its many geraniums. Peek into patios, kick a few soccer balls, and savor the views.
Evening Action in the New Town—The newer part of Arcos has a modern charm. In the cool of the evening, all generations enjoy life out around Plaza de España (10-minute walk from the old town). Several good tapas bars border the square or are nearby.
The big park (Recinto Ferial) below Plaza de España is the late-night fun zone in the summer (June-Aug) when carpas (restaurant tents) fill with merrymakers, especially on weekends. The scene includes open-air tapas bars, disco music, and dancing.
Hotels in Arcos consider April, May, August, September, and October to be high season. Note that some hotels double their rates during the motorbike races in nearby Jerez (usually April or May, varies yearly, call TI or ask your hotel) and during Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter); these spikes are not reflected in the prices below.
For an overnight stay, avoid the parking lot on the main square, which has a two-hour daytime limit. Instead, park in the lot at Plaza de España, and catch a taxi or the shuttle bus up to the old town (see “Arrival in Arcos,” earlier).
$$$ Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, with 24 elegant, recently refurbished and reasonably priced rooms (8 have balconies). If you’re going to experience a parador, this is a good one (Sb-€130-150, Db-€155-168, Db with terrace-€182-201, cheaper rates are for Nov-Feb, breakfast-€16, air-con, elevator, free Internet access, free parking, Plaza del Cabildo, tel. 956-700-500, fax 956-701-116, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es).
$$ Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family and their wonderful staff, this cozy hotel offers 13 fine rooms—all with great views, most with balconies. In 1998 I enjoyed a big party with most of Arcos’ big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to “Rick Steves, Periodista Turístico.” Guess where I sleep when in Arcos...(Sb with balcony-€62, Sb with terrace-€78, Db with balcony-€82, Db with terrace-€97, extra person-€18; 10 percent discount in 2013 when you book direct, pay in cash, and show this book; usually closed Nov-Feb; Maldonado 2, tel. 956-702-333, fax 956-704-128, www.hotelelconvento.es, reservas@hotelelconvento.es). Over an à la carte breakfast, bird-watch on their view terrace, with all of Andalucía spreading beyond your café con leche.
$$ La Casa Grande is a lovingly appointed Better Homes and Moroccan Tiles kind of place that rents eight rooms with big-view windows. As in a lavish yet very authentic old-style B&B, you’re free to enjoy its fine view terrace, homey library, and atrium-like patio, where you’ll be served a traditional breakfast. They also offer guided visits and massage services (Db-€73-89; junior suites: Db-€89-119, Tb-€109-119, Qb-€123-140; breakfast-€9, air-con, free Internet access, Maldonado 10, tel. 956-703-930, fax 956-717-095, www.lacasagrande.net, info@lacasagrande.net, Elena).
$$ Rincón de las Nieves, with simple Andalusian style, has a cool inner courtyard surrounded by three rooms and a sprawling apartment that can accommodate up to seven people. Two of the rooms have their own outdoor terraces with obstructed views, and all have access to the rooftop terrace (Db-€50-65, higher for Holy Week and Aug, apartment-€20-24/person, air-con, Boticas 10, tel. 956-701-528, mobile 656-886-256, rincondelasnieves@gmail.com).
$ Hostal San Marcos, above a neat little bar in the heart of the old town, offers four air-conditioned rooms and a great sun terrace with views of the reservoir (Sb-€25, Db-€35, Tb-€45, air-con, Marqués de Torresoto 6, best to reserve by phone, tel. 956-105-429, mobile 664-118-052, sanmarcosdearcos@hotmail.com). Loli speaks no English.
$ Hostal Callejón de las Monjas (a.k.a. Hostal El Patio) offers the best cheap beds in the old town. With a tangled floor plan and nine simple rooms, it’s on a sometimes-noisy street behind the Church of Santa María (Sb-€20, D-€27, Db-€33, Db with terrace-€39, Tb-€44, Qb apartment-€66, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Calle Deán Espinosa 4, tel. & fax 956-702-302, mobile 605-839-995, www.mesonelpatio.com, padua@mesonelpatio.com, staff speak no English). The bar-restaurant with bullfighting posters in the cellar serves breakfast and tapas.
$$ Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with 19 rooms, an impressive courtyard, roof garden, generous public spaces, bar, view, friendly folks, and easy parking. The five view rooms can be a bit noisy in the afternoon, but—with double-paned windows—are usually fine at night (Sb-€45-50, Db-€70-85, Tb-€85-100, extra bed-€15, breakfast-€9; 10 percent discount when you book direct, pay in cash, and show this book; free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Paseo de Boliches 30, tel. 956-700-811, fax 956-702-018, www.hotel-losolivos.es, reservas@hotel-losolivos.es, Raquel and Miguel Ángel).
$ Hostal Málaga is surprisingly nice, if for some reason you want to stay on the big, noisy road at the Jerez edge of town. Nestled on a quiet lane between truck stops on A-382, it offers 18 clean, attractive rooms and a breezy two-level roof garden (Sb-€20-25, Db-€35-38, Qb apartment-€50, air-con, Wi-Fi, easy parking, Ponce de León 5, tel. & fax 956-702-010, www.hostalmalaga.com, hostalmalagaarcos@hotmail.com, Josefa speaks German if that helps).
Restaurants generally serve lunch from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:00 until very late (Spaniards don’t start dinner until about 21:00).
The Parador (described earlier, under “Sleeping in Arcos”) has an expensive restaurant with a cliff-edge setting. A costly drink on the million-dollar-view terrace can be worth the price (€13-14 starters, €16-25 main dishes, €24 lunch deal, €32 three-course fixed-price meal at lunch or dinner, daily 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:00, shorter hours off-season, on main square).
Several decent, rustic bar-restaurants are in the old town, within a block or two of the main square and church. Most serve tapas at the bar and raciones at their tables. Prices are fairly consistent (€2 tapas, €5 media-raciones, €8 raciones).
Bar La Carcel (“The Prison”) is run by a hardworking family that brags about its exquisite tapas and small open-faced sandwiches. I would, too. The menu is accessible; prices are the same at the bar or at the tables; and the place has a winning energy, giving the traveler a fun peek at this community (Tue-Sun 12:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, closed Mon; July-Aug it’s open Mon and closed Sun; Calle Deán Espinosa 18, tel. 956-700-410).
Alcaraván tries to be a bit trendier yet típico, with a hibachi hard at work out front. A flamenco ambience fills its medieval vault in the castle’s former dungeon. This place attracts French and German tourists who give it a cool vibe. Francisco and his wife cook from 13:00 and again starting at 21:00 (closed Mon, Calle Nueva 1, tel. 956-703-397).
Bar San Marcos is a tiny, homey bar with five tables, an easy-to-understand menu offering hearty, simple home cooking, and cheap €5 plates and €7 fixed-price meals (kitchen open long hours daily, Marqués de Torresoto 6).
Mesón Don Fernando gives rustic a feminine twist with an inviting bar and both indoor and great outdoor seating on the square just across from the little market (Tue-Thu 13:30-16:00 & 20:15-23:00 for food, closed Wed, longer hours for drinks on the square, on Plaza Boticas).
Mama Ttina gives you an Italian break from Andalucía, with pizza and pastas to go along with the Italian pop music and international Italian/Andaluz/Moroccan/British staff (€6-12 pizzas and pastas, Thu-Mon 13:00-16:00 & 18:00-24:00, Tue-Wed 18:00-24:00 only, Deán Espinosa 10, tel. 956-703-937).
Plaza de España, in the lower new town, is lined with tapas bars and restaurants. There’s even an Egyptian restaurant if you’re in the mood for a change. For a great perch while enjoying the local family scene, consider the busy Restaurante Bar Terraza (€12 plates) at the end of Plaza de España.
Leaving Arcos by bus can be frustrating (especially if you’re going to Ronda)—buses generally leave late, the schedule information boards are often inaccurate, and the ticket window usually isn’t open (luckily, you can buy your tickets on the bus). But local buses do give you a glimpse at España profunda (“deep Spain”), where everyone seems to know each other, no one’s in a hurry, and despite any language barriers, people are quite helpful when approached.
Two bus companies (Los Amarillos and Comes) share the Arcos bus station. Call the Jerez offices for departure times, or ask your hotelier for help. If you want to find out about the Arcos-Jerez schedule, make it clear you’re coming from Arcos (Los Amarillos tel. 902-210-317, www.losamarillos.es; Comes tel. 902-199-208, www.tgcomes.es). Also try the privately run www.movelia.es for bus schedules and routes.
From Arcos by Bus to: Jerez (hourly, 30 minutes), Ronda (1-2/day, 2 hours), Cádiz (4-5/day, 1.25 hours), Sevilla (2/day, 2 hours, more departures with transfer in Jerez). Buses run less frequently on weekends. The closest train station to Arcos is Jerez.
The trip to Sevilla takes just over an hour if you pay €5 for the toll road. To reach southern Portugal, follow the freeway to Sevilla, skirt the city by turning west on C-30 in the direction of Huelva, and it’s a straight shot from there.
For more driving tips for the region, see the end of this chapter.