Mainland Europe’s southernmost town is whitewashed and Arab-feeling, with a lovely beach, an old castle, restaurants swimming in fresh seafood, inexpensive places to sleep, enough windsurfers to sink a ship, and, best of all, hassle-free boats to Morocco.
As I stood on Tarifa’s town promenade under the castle, looking out at almost-touchable Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar, my only regret was that I didn’t have this book to steer me clear of gritty Algeciras on earlier trips. Tarifa, with 35-minute boat transfers to Tangier departing every other hour, is the best jumping-off point for a Moroccan side-trip, as its ferry route goes directly to Tangier’s city-center Medina Port. The other routes, from Algeciras and Gibraltar, take you to the Tangier MED Port, 25 miles east of Tangier city. (In the future Tarifa boats may also be steered to the MED Port—but even if this happens, Tarifa is still a much more appealing home base than Algeciras.)
Tarifa has no blockbuster sights (and can be quiet off-season), but it’s a town where you just feel good to be on vacation. Don’t expect a snazzy Riviera-style beach resort, à la Nerja. Tarifa is a functional, dreary-in-parts port city with an atmospheric old town and a long, broad stretch of relatively undeveloped but wildly popular sandy beach. The town is a hip and breezy mecca among windsurfers, drawn here by the strong winds created by the bottleneck at the Strait of Gibraltar. Tarifa is mobbed with young German and French adventure-seekers in July and August. This crowd from all over Europe (and beyond) makes Tarifa one of Spain’s trendiest-feeling towns. It has far more artsy boutique hotels than most Spanish towns its size, and its restaurant offerings are atypically eclectic for normally same-Jane Spain—you’ll see vegetarian and organic, Italian and Indian, gourmet burgers and tea houses, and on each corner, it seems, there’s a stylish bar-lounge with techno music, mood lighting, and youthful Europeans just hanging out.
The old town, surrounded by a wall, slopes gently up from the water’s edge (and the port to Tangier). The modern section stretches farther inland from Tarifa’s fortified gate.
The TI is on Paseo de la Alameda (Mon-Fri 9:30-13:30 & 16:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-13:30; hours may be longer in summer, or shorter on slow or bad-weather days, tel. 956-680-993, www.aytotarifa.com, turismo@aytotarifa.com).
Experiencia Tarifa: This organization, run by can-do Quino of the recommended Hostal Alborada, produces a good free magazine and town map featuring hotels, restaurants, and a wide array of activities (also online at www.experienciatarifa.com).
By Bus: The bus station (actually a couple of portable buildings with an outdoor sitting area) is on Batalla del Salado, about a five-minute walk from the old town. (The more central TI also has bus schedules.) Buy tickets directly from the driver if the ticket booth is closed (Mon-Fri 7:30-12:30 & 14:15-18:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-20:00, hours vary slightly with the season, bus station tel. 956-684-038, Comes bus company tel. 902-199-208). To reach the old town, walk away from the wind turbines perched on the mountain ridge.
By Car: If you’re staying in the center of town, follow signs for Alameda or Puerto, and continue along Avenida de Andalucía. Follow signs to make an obligatory loop to the port entrance, then swing right and park for free in the lot at the far end of Calle Juan Núñez (on the harbor, at the base of the castle). During the busiest summer months (July-Aug), this parking lot can fill up, in which case you’ll need to use one of the pay lots on either side of the old-town wall (to the west, just off of Avenida de la Constitución on Calle Joaquín Tena Artigas; or to the east, off of Camino del Olivar). Or you can try finding street parking, which is most abundant in the new town just north of the old-town walls. Blue lines indicate paid parking, and yellow lines are no-parking areas.
Internet Access: Pandor@, in the heart of the old town, has 16 computers across from Café Central, near the church (€2.50/hour, generally daily in summer 10:00-23:00, in winter 10:00-14:30 & 16:30-21:30, tel. 956-680-816).
Ferry Tickets: You can get Morocco ferry tickets right at the port, but if you want to avoid that short walk, the FRS ferry company has an office just outside the old-town wall, at the corner of Avenida de Andalucía and Avenida de la Constitución. Buy tickets or book a seat on one of their tours here (€65 round-trip, Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-15:00, closed Sun, tel. 956-681-830, www.frs.es).
Excursions: Girasol Adventure offers a variety of outdoor excursions, including mountain-bike rentals (€18/day with helmet), guided bike tours, hikes in the national park, rock-climbing classes, tennis lessons, and, when you’re all done...a massage (€50/hour). The various activities generally last a half-day and cost around €25-35. Ask Sabine or Chris for details (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 18:30-20:30, Sat 11:00-14:00, closed Sun, Calle Colón 12, tel. 956-627-037, www.girasol-adventure.com).
Church of St. Matthew (Iglesia de San Mateo)—Tarifa’s most important church, facing its main drag, is richly decorated for being in such a small town. Most nights, it seems life squirts from the church out the front door and into the fun-loving Calle El Bravo. Wander inside.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:30-13:00 & 17:30-21:00; there may be English-language leaflets inside on the right.
Visiting the Church: Find the fragment of an ancient tombstone—a tiny square (eye-level, about the size of this book) in the wall just before the transept on the right side. Probably the most important historical item in town, this stone fragment proves there was a functioning church here during Visigothic times, before the Moorish conquest. The tombstone reads, in a kind of Latin Spanish (try reading it), “Flaviano lived as a Christian for 50 years, a little more or less. In death he received forgiveness as a servant of God on March 30, 674. May he rest in peace.” If that gets you in the mood to light a candle, switch on an electric “candle” by dropping in a coin. (It works.) A bit closer to the main entrance, you’ll see a sign offering you the chance to light a digital candle by sending a text message (for a pricey €1.50).
Step into the side chapel around the corner, in the right transept. The centerpiece of the altar is a boy Jesus. By Andalusian tradition, he used to be naked, but these days he’s clothed with outfits that vary with the Church calendar. Underneath the dome, cherubs dance around on the pink-and-purple interior above an exquisite chandelier.
Head back out into the main nave, and face the high altar. A statue of St. James the Moor-Slayer (missing his sword) is on the right wall of the main central altar. Since the days of the Reconquista, James has been Spain’s patron saint.
The left side of the nave harbors several statues—showing typically over-the-top Baroque emotion—that are paraded through town during Holy Week. The Captive Christ (with hands bound) evokes a time when Christians were held captive by Moors. The door on the left side of the nave is the “door of pardons.” For a long time Tarifa was a dangerous place—on the edge of the Reconquista. To encourage people to live here, the Church offered a second helping of forgiveness to anyone who lived in Tarifa for a year. One year and one day after moving to Tarifa, they would have the privilege of passing through this special “door of pardons,” and a Mass of thanksgiving would be held in that person’s honor.
Castle of Guzmán el Bueno—This castle, recently reopened after a long restoration, is a concrete hulk in a vacant lot, interesting only for the harbor views from its ramparts. It was named after a 13th-century Christian general who gained fame in a sad show of courage while fighting the Moors. Holding Guzmán’s son hostage, the Moors demanded he surrender the castle or they’d kill the boy. Guzmán refused, even throwing his own knife down from the ramparts. It was used on his son’s throat. Ultimately, the Moors withdrew to Africa, and Guzmán was a hero. Bueno.
Cost and Hours: €2; May-Sept Tue-Sat 11:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-14:00; Oct-April Tue-Sat 11:00-14:00 & 16:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon year-round).
Nearby: If you skip the castle, you’ll get equally good views from the plaza just left of the town hall. Follow ayto signs to the ceramic frog fountain in front of the Casa Consistorial and continue left.
Bullfighting—Tarifa has a third-rate bullring where novices botch fights on occasional Saturdays through the summer. Professional bullfights take place during special events in August and September. The ring is a short walk from town. You’ll see posters everywhere.
▲Whale-Watching—Several companies in Tarifa offer daily whale- and dolphin-watching excursions. Over the past four decades, people in this area went from eating whales to protecting them and sharing them with 20,000 visitors a year. Talks are under way between Morocco and Spain to protect the Strait of Gibraltar by declaring it a national park.
For any of the tours, it’s wise (but not always necessary) to reserve one to three days in advance. You’ll get a multilingual tour and a two-hour boat trip. Sightings occur on nearly every trip: Dolphins and pilot whales frolic here any time of year (they like the food), sperm whales visit from March through July, and orcas pass through in July and August. In bad weather, trips may be canceled or boats may leave instead from Algeciras (in which case, drivers follow in a convoy, people without cars usually get rides from staff, and you’ll stand a lesser chance of seeing whales).
The best company is the Swiss nonprofit FIRMM (Foundation for Information and Research on Marine Mammals), which gives a 30-minute educational talk before departure. To reserve, it’s best to call ahead or stop by one of their two offices (€30/person, 1-5 trips/day April-Oct, sometimes also Nov, also offers intensive week-long courses that include boat trips, one office around the corner from Café Central—one door inland at Pedro Cortés 4, second office inside the ferry port, tel. 956-627-008, mobile 619-459-441, www.firmm.org, mail@firmm.org). If you don’t see any whales or dolphins on your tour, you can join another trip for free.
Whale Watch Tarifa is another good option. In addition to a two-hour whale-watching trip (€30), they offer a three-hour orca trip in July and August (€45, Avenida de la Constitución 6, tel. 956-627-013, mobile 639-476-544, www.whalewatchtarifa.net, whalewatchtarifa@whalewatchtarifa.net, run by Lourdes).
Isla de las Palomas—Extending out between Tarifa’s port and beaches, this island connected by a spit is the actual “southernmost point in mainland Europe.” Walk along the causeway, with beaches stretching to your right and a bustling port to your left, to the tip, which was fortified in the 19th century to balance the military might of Britain’s nearby Rock of Gibraltar. The actual tip, still owned by the Ministry of Defense, is closed to the public, but a sign at the gate still gives you that giddy “edge of the world” feeling.
▲▲ Beach Scene—Tarifa’s vast, sandy beach stretches west for about five miles. You can walk the beach from Tarifa, while those with a car can explore farther (following Cádiz Road). On windy summer days, the sea is littered with sprinting windsurfers, while kitesurfers flutter in the sky. “Paddleboarding” (standing on a surfboard while maneuvering with a long, kayak-like paddle) is also becoming popular. It’s a fascinating scene: A long string of funky beach resorts is packed with vans and fun-mobiles from northern Europe under mountain ridges lined with modern energy-generating windmills. The various resorts each have a sandy access road, parking, a cabana-type hamlet with rental gear, beachwear shops, a bar, and a hip, healthy restaurant. I like Valdevaqueros beach (five miles from Tarifa), with a wonderful thatched restaurant serving hearty salads, paella, and burgers. Camping Torre de la Peña also has some fun beach eateries.
In July and August, inexpensive buses do a circuit of nearby campgrounds, all on the waterfront (€2, departures about every 1-2 hours, confirm times with TI). Trying to get a parking spot in August can take the joy out of this experience.
You’ll find plenty of enjoyable nightspots—the entire town seems designed to cater to a young, international crowd of windsurfers and other adventure travelers. Just stroll the streets of the old town and dip into whichever trendy lounge catches your eye. For something more sedate, the evening paseo fills the park-like boulevard called Paseo Alameda (just outside the old-town wall); the Almedina bar hosts flamenco shows every Thursday (at the south end of town, just below Plaza de Santa María); and the new theater next to the TI sometimes has musical performances (ask at the TI or look for posters).
Room rates vary with the season. For many hotels, I’ve listed the three seasonal tiers (lowest prices—winter; medium prices—spring and fall; and highest prices—mid-June-Sept).
These hotels are about five blocks from the old town, right off the main drag, Batalla del Salado, in the plain, modern part of town. While in a drab area, both are well-run oases that are close to the beach and the bus station, with free and easy street parking.
$$ Hostal Alborada is a squeaky-clean, family-run 37-room place with two attractive courtyards and modern conveniences. Father Rafael, sons Quino (who speaks English and is generous with travel tips) and Carlos, and their family are happy to help make your Morocco tour or ferry reservation, or arrange any other activities you’re interested in. If they’re not too busy, they’ll even give you a free lift to the port (Sb-€40/55/65, Db-€50/70/85, Tb-€80/90/110, pay for first night when reserving, upon arrival show 2013 edition of this book for 10 percent discount—not valid July-Sept, strict 15-day cancellation policy, basic breakfast-€2.50, larger breakfast with delicious tomato bread-€5, air-con, pay Internet access, free Wi-Fi, laundry-€14, Calle San José 40, tel. 956-681-140, fax 956-681-935, www.hotelalborada.com, info@hotelalborada.com).
$$ Hotel La Mirada, which feels sleek and stark, has 25 mod and renovated rooms—most with sea views at no extra cost. While the place lacks personality, it’s well-priced and comfortable (Sb-€45/55/60, Db-€65/75/90, breakfast-€5, elevator, free Wi-Fi, expansive sea views from large roof terrace with inviting lounge chairs, Calle San Sebastián 41, tel. 956-684-427, fax 956-681-162, www.hotel-lamirada.com, reservas@hotel-lamirada.com, Antonio and Salvador).
The first three listings are funky, stylish boutique hotels in the heart of town—muy trendy and a bit full of themselves.
$$$ La Sacristía, formerly a Moorish stable, now houses travelers who want stylish surroundings. It offers 10 fine and uniquely decorated rooms, mingling eclectic elements of chic Spanish and Asian style. They offer spa treatments, custom tours of the area, and occasional special events—join the party since you won’t sleep (Db-€117, superior Db-€137, extra bed-€35, can be cheaper off-season, includes breakfast, some superior rooms have air-con but most rooms have fans, massage room, sauna, roof terrace, TV on request, very central at San Donato 8, tel. 956-681-759, fax 956-685-182, www.lasacristia.net, tarifa@lasacristia.net, helpful Teresa). They also rent 10 apartments at a separate location.
$$$ Casa Blan+co, where minimalist meets Moroccan, is the newest reasonably priced designer hotel on the block. Each of its seven rooms (with double beds only—no twins) is decorated (and priced) differently. The place is decked out with practical amenities (mini-fridge and stovetop) as well as romantic touches—loft beds, walk-in showers, and subtle lighting (high-season Db-€92-133, low-season Db-€52-69, includes breakfast, small roof terrace, free Wi-Fi in lobby, off main square at Calle Nuestra Señora de la Luz 2, tel. 956-681-515, fax 956-681-990, www.casablan-co.com, hotel casablanco@gmail.com).
$$$ Hotel Misiana has 15 comfortable, newly remodeled, spacious rooms above a bar-lounge. Their designer gave the place a mod pastel boutique-ish ambience. To avoid noise from the lounge below (open until 3:00 in the morning), request a room on a higher floor (Sb-€50/75/115, Db-€75/100/140, fancy top-floor Db suite-€200/230/300, low- and mid-season rates are €10-20 more on weekends, includes breakfast, double-paned windows, elevator, free Wi-Fi, 100 yards directly in front of the church at Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 16, tel. 956-627-083, fax 956-627-055, www.misiana.com, info@misiana.com).
$$ La Casa Amarilla (“The Yellow House”) offers 10 posh apartments with tiny kitchens, plus three smaller studios with modern decor (studio Db-€52/77/105, apartment Db-€70/100/120, reserve with credit card, studios include breakfast, free Wi-Fi, across street from Café Central, Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 9, tel. 956-681-993, fax 956-684-029, www.lacasaamarilla.net, info@lacasaamarilla.net).
$$ Hostal La Calzada has eight airy, well-appointed rooms right in the lively old-town thick of things, though the management is rarely around (Db-€50-75, higher in Aug, extra bed-€10, closed Dec-March, air-con, free Wi-Fi in lobby, 20 yards from church at Calle Justino Pertinez 7, tel. 956-681-492, fax 956-680-366, www.hostallacalzada.com, info@hostallacalzada.com).
$$ Hostal Alameda, overlooking a square where the local children play, glistens with pristine marble floors and dark red decor. The main building has 11 bright rooms and the annex has 16 more-modern rooms; both face the same delightful square (Db-€60/70/90, extra bed-€20-30, à la carte breakfast, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Paseo de la Alameda 4, tel. 956-681-181, fax 956-680-264, www.hostalalameda.com, reservas@hostalalameda.com, Antonio).
$$ Hostal Africa, with 13 bright rooms and an inviting roof terrace, is buried on a very quiet street in the center of town. Its dreamy blue-and-white color scheme and stripped-down feel give it a Moorish ambience (S-€20/25/35, Sb-€25/35/50, D-€30/40/50, Db-€35/50/65, Tb-€50/75/100, no breakfast, laundry-€10, free Wi-Fi on terrace, storage for boards and bikes, Calle María Antonia Toledo 12, tel. 956-680-220, mobile 606-914-294, www.hostalafrica.com, hostal_africa@hotmail.com, Miguel and Eva keep the reception desk open only 9:00-24:00).
$$ Pensión Correo rents nine simple rooms (three sharing a bathroom, two available with kitchens during high season) at a fair value. Room 8 has a private roof terrace, and rooms 6 and 7 have gorgeous views (S-€20-35, D-€35-60, Db-€45-80, Tb-€50-90, Qb-€60-110, extra bed-€10-15, reservations more than 24 hours in advance require first night prepaid by credit card—refundable up to 3 days in advance, no breakfast, roof garden, free Wi-Fi in some rooms, Coronel Moscardo 8, tel. 956-680-206, www.pensioncorreo.com, welcome@pensioncorreo.com, Luca).
$ Hostal Villanueva offers 12 remodeled rooms at budget prices over a good restaurant. It’s simple, clean, and friendly. It lacks indoor public areas, but has an inviting terrace overlooking the old town. On a busy street, it’s dominated by its restaurant. Pepe (who speaks a smidgen of English) asks that you reconfirm your reservation by phone the day before you arrive (Sb-€25-30, Db-€35-55, cash only, no breakfast, just west of the old-town gate at Avenida de Andalucía 11, access from outside the wall, tel. & fax 956-684-149, hostalvillanueva@hotmail.com).
I’ve grouped my recommendations below into two categories: Sit down to a real restaurant meal, or enjoy a couple of the many characteristic tapas bars in the old town.
Restaurante Morilla, facing the church and on the town’s prime piece of people-watching real estate, serves tasty local-style fish—grilled or baked. This is a real restaurant (€1.50 tapas sold only at the stand-up bar and sometimes at a few tables), with good indoor and outdoor seating. The waiter will tell you about today’s fish; it’s sold by weight, so confirm the price carefully (€4-11 starters, €10-16 main dishes, daily 9:00-24:00, Calle Sancho IV El Bravo, tel. 956-681-757).
El Puerto, in a dreary and untouristy area between the port and the beach (near the causeway out to Isla de las Palomas), has a great reputation for its pricey but very fresh seafood. Locals swear that it’s a notch or two above the seafood places in town (€8-14 starters, €10-20 seafood dishes and some meats, Thu-Mon 12:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, Tue-Wed 12:00-16:00 only, Avenida Fuerzas Armadas 13, tel. 956-681-914).
Restaurante Villanueva is a homey-feeling, affordable seafood option, with a sprawling interior and outdoor tables on a busy street just outside the old-town wall (€7.50 lunch, €4-7 starters, €9-15 main dishes, Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 & 19:45-23:00, closed Mon, Avenida de Andalucía 11, tel. 956-684-149).
La Oca da Sergio, cozy and fun, is one of the numerous pizza-and-pasta joints supported by the large expat Italian community. Sergio prides himself on importing authentic Italian ingredients (€7-11 starters, €9-14 pastas, €7-10 pizzas, €14-16 meat and fish dishes, indoor and outdoor seating, daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00 except closed Tue in winter; around the left side of the church and straight back, just before the Moorish-style old-folks’ home at Calle General Copons 6; tel. 956-681-249, mobile 615-686-571).
Ristorante La Trattoria, on the Alameda, is another good Italian option, with cloth-napkin class, friendly staff, and ingredients from Italy. Sit inside, near the wood-fired oven, or out along the main strolling street (€7-18 starters and pastas, €6-15 pizzas, €14-25 meat dishes; daily 19:30-1:00 in the morning, July-Aug also Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00, closed Wed off-season; Paseo de la Alameda, tel. 956-682-225).
These two restaurants are in a residential area just above the beach, about a 15-minute walk (or easy car or taxi ride) from the old town. They’re worth a detour for their great food, and for the chance to see an area away from the main tourist zone (though the sushi bar is on the beach and is no stranger to tourists). To get to either, begin by heading up Calle San Sebastián, which turns into Calle Pintor Pérez Villalta. When you see a big staircase immediately on your right, take it to reach Restaurante Souk, or turn left toward the beach to find Surfing Sushi in the large blue Surla building.
Restaurante Souk serves a tasty fusion of Moroccan, Indian, and Thai cuisine in a dark, exotic, romantic, purely Moroccan ambience. The ground floor (where you enter) is a bar and atmospheric tea house, while the dining room is downstairs (€6-9 starters, €12-17 main dishes; July-Sept daily 20:00-3:00 in the morning; Oct-June Wed-Mon 20:00-1:00, closed Tue; good wine list, Mar Tirreno 46, tel. 956-627-065, friendly Claudia).
Surfing Sushi, part of a cool surfer bar called Surla, serves up wonderfully executed sushi using only the freshest of ingredients. Situated just a few steps above the beachfront walkway, it’s at the center of a sprawling zone of après-surf hangouts. They also offer delivery (€16-21 shareable sushi platters, mid-June-mid-Sept daily 21:00-24:00, closed Wed off-season, possible to order delivery sushi by phone at other times, Calle Pintor Pérez Villalta 1, tel. 956-685-175).
Bar El Francés is a thriving hole-in-the-wall where “Frenchies” (as the bar’s name implies) Marcial and Alexandra serve tasty little plates of tapas. From Café Central, follow the cars 100 yards to the first corner on the left to reach this simple, untouristy standing-and-stools-only eatery. This spot is popular for its fine raciones (€6-10) and tapas (€1.30-1.80)—especially oxtail (rabo del toro), fish in brandy sauce (pescado in salsa al cognac), pork with spice (chicharrones), and garlic-grilled tuna (atún a la plancha). The outdoor terrace with restaurant-type tables (no tapas served here) is an understandably popular spot to enjoy a casual meal. Show this book and Marcial will be happy to bring you a free glass of sherry (open daily long hours June-Aug; closed Wed-Thu March-May and Sept-Nov; closed Dec-Feb; Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 21A, mobile 685-867-005).
Café Bar Los Melli is a local favorite for feasts on rickety tables set on cobbles. This family-friendly place, run by José, offers a good chorizo sandwich and patatas bravas—potatoes with a hot tomato sauce served on a wooden board (€5 half-raciones, €8 raciones, Thu-Tue 20:00-24:00, Sat-Sun also 13:00-16:00, closed Wed; from Bar El Francés, cross parking lot and take Calle del Legionario Ríos Moya up one block; mobile 605-866-444). Bar El Pasillo, next to Los Melli, also serves tapas (closed Mon-Tue). El Otro Melli, run by José’s brother Ramón, is a few blocks away on Plaza de San Martín.
La Posada, a local-feeling place a block beyond the main tourist zone (and just up the street from Los Melli), takes pride in its fresh ingredients. There’s a small dining room, a nondescript bar with a giant stone beer tap that’s a replica of the city’s first communal faucet, and tables out front near the real thing (€1.50 montaditos, €3 tostadas, €4-6 half-raciones, €7-11 raciones; July-Aug daily 13:00-16:30 & 20:00-24:00; Sept-June Mon and Wed-Fri 20:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-16:30 & 20:00-24:00, closed Tue; Calle Guzman el Bueno 3A, mobile 636-929-449).
Café Central is the happening place nearly any time of day—it’s the perch for all the cool tourists. Less authentically Spanish than the others I’ve listed, it has a hip, international vibe. The bustling ambience and appealing setting in front of the church are better than the food (€1.30 tapas, €5 half-raciones), but they do have breakfast with eggs (€2-4), good €6 salads (study the menu), and impressively therapeutic healthy fruit drinks (daily 8:30-24:00, off Plaza San Mateo, near church, tel. 956-682-877).
Casino Tarifeno is just to the sea side of the church. It’s an old-boys’ social club “for members only,” but it offers a musty Andalusian welcome to visiting tourists, including women. Wander through. There’s a low-key bar with tapas, a TV room, a card room, and a lounge. There’s no menu, but prices are standard. Just point and say the size you want: tapa (€1.20), media-ración (€4), or ración (€7). A far cry from some of the trendy options around town, this is a local institution (daily 12:00-24:00).
Breakfast or Dessert: Confitería La Tarifeña serves super pastries and flan-like tocino de cielo (daily 9:00-21:00, at the top of Calle Nuestra Señora de la Luz, near the main old-town gate).
Churrería La Palmera serves breakfast before most hotels and cafés have even turned on the lights—early enough for you to get your coffee fix, and/or bulk up on churros and chocolate, before hopping the first ferry to Tangier (daily 6:00-13:00, Sanchez IV El Bravo 34).
Windsurfer Bars: If you have a car, head to the string of beaches. Many have bars and fun-loving thatched restaurants that keep the wet-suited gang fed and watered.
Picnics: Stop by the mercado municipal (farmers’ market, Mon-Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun, in old town, inside gate nearest TI), any grocery, or the superSol supermarket (Mon-Sat 9:30-21:30, closed Sun, has simple cafeteria, near the hotels in the new town at Callao and San José).
From Tarifa by Bus to: La Línea de la Concepción/Gibraltar (2/day direct, 1 hour, starting around 12:00; more possible with transfer in Algeciras, 1.5 hours), Algeciras (15/day, 45 minutes, first departure from Tarifa weekdays at 6:30, on Sat 8:00, on Sun 10:00; return from Algeciras as late as 22:30), Jerez (1/day, 2 hours, more frequent with transfer in Cádiz), Sevilla (4/day, 2.5-3.25 hours), and Málaga (3/day, 3.5 hours). All bus service from Tarifa is by Comes (tel. 902-199-208, www.tgcomes.es).
Algeciras (ahl-heh-THEE-rahs, with a guttural h) is only worth leaving. It’s useful to the traveler mainly as a transportation hub, with trains and buses to destinations in southern and central Spain (it also has a ferry to Tangier, but it takes you to the Tangier MED port about 25 miles from Tangier city—going from Tarifa is much better). If you’re headed for Gibraltar or Tarifa by public transport, you’ll almost certainly change in Algeciras at some point.
Everything of interest is on Juan de la Cierva, which heads inland from the port. The TI is about a block in (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat-Sun 9:30-15:00, tel. 956-784-131), followed by the side-by-side train station (opposite Hotel Octavio) and bus station three more blocks later.
Trains: If arriving at the train station, head out the front door: The bus station (called San Bernardo Estación de Autobuses) is ahead and on the right; the TI is another three blocks ahead (the road becomes Juan de la Cierva when the road jogs), also on the right; and the port is just beyond.
From Algeciras by Train to: Madrid (2/day, 5.5 hours, arrives at Atocha), Ronda (3-4/day, 1.5-2 hours), Granada (3/day, 4.25-5 hours), Sevilla (3/day, 5 hours, transfer at Bobadilla; bus is better), Córdoba (2/day direct on Altaria, 3.25 hours; plus 1/day with transfer in Bobadilla, 5.25 hours), Málaga (2/day, 4 hours, transfer in Bobadilla; bus is faster). With the exception of the route to Madrid, these are particularly scenic trips; the best (though slow) is the mountainous journey to Málaga via Bobadilla.
Buses: Algeciras is served by three different bus companies (Comes, Portillo, and Linesur), all located in the same terminal (called San Bernardo Estación de Autobuses) next to Hotel Octavio and directly across from the train station. The companies generally serve different destinations, but there is some overlap. Compare schedules and rates to find the most convenient bus for you. By the ticket counter you’ll find an easy red letter board that lists departures. Lockers are near the platforms—purchase a token at the machines.
From Algeciras by Bus: Comes (tel. 902-199-208, www.tgcomes.es) runs buses to La Línea/Gibraltar (2/hour, less on weekends, 45 minutes, 7:00-22:30), Tarifa (14/day, less on weekends, 45 minutes), Ronda (1/day, 2.5 hours), Sevilla (4/day, 3.5 hours), Jerez (2/day with Comes, 2.5 hours), and Madrid (3/day, 8 hours).
Portillo (tel. 956-654-304, http://portillo.avanzabus.com) offers buses to Málaga (hourly, 1.75 hours directo, 3 hours ruta) and Granada (4/day, 4-5 hours).
Linesur (tel. 956-667-649, www.linesur.com) runs the most frequent direct buses to Sevilla (8/day, fewer on weekends, 2.5-3 hours) and Jerez (6/day, fewer on weekends, 1.5 hours).
Ferries from Algeciras to Tangier, Morocco: Although it’s possible to sail from Algeciras to Tangier, the ferry takes you to the Tangier MED Port, which is 25 miles east of Tangier city and a hassle. You’re better off taking a ferry from Tarifa: They sail direct to the port in Tangier. If you must sail from Algeciras, buy your ticket at the port (skip the divey-looking travel agencies littering the town). Official offices of the boat companies are inside the main port building, directly behind the helpful little English-speaking info kiosk (8-22 ferries/day, port open daily 6:45-21:45, tel. 956-585-463).
Tarifa to Gibraltar (45 minutes): This short drive takes you past a silvery-white forest of windmills, from peaceful Tarifa past Algeciras to La Línea (the Spanish town bordering Gibraltar). Passing Algeciras, continue in the direction of Estepona. At San Roque, take the La Línea–Gibraltar exit.
Gibraltar to Nerja (130 miles): Barring traffic problems, the trip along the Costa del Sol is smooth and easy by car—much of it on a new highway. Just follow the coastal highway east. After Málaga, follow signs to Almería and Motril.
Nerja to Granada (80 miles, 1.5 hours, 100 views): Drive along the coast to Motril, catching N-323 north for about 40 miles to Granada. While scenic side-trips may beckon, don’t arrive late in Granada without a confirmed hotel reservation.