O‘AHU IN BRIEF
Millions visit O‘ahu each year, but few really get to know it. That’s a shame. When travelers go to the neighbor islands, they generally rent a car and spend time exploring. On O‘ahu they are likely to take a taxi or bus to Waikiki and disappear for the rest of their vacation under the shadows of skyscrapers. Few visitors get more adventuresome than taking an organized tour around the island, during which they experience a lot more of life on the bus than on O‘ahu. Waikiki certainly has its attractions, but Greater Honolulu and the rest of the island have more.
Let’s get a discussion of Waikiki out of the way first. Waikiki remains the center of Hawaiian tourism (and rampant consumerism) because it offers so much to do in such a compact setting. It’s a 24/7 city, thanks to the jet-setters and jet-lagged. It’s said that on any given day, half the visitors to Hawai‘i (that’s all the islands combined) are in Waikiki. Yes, the beach is a bit crowded, but it makes for great people-watching, and you can swim year-round in the usually gentle surf. Hop an outrigger canoe or take a surf lesson. In the early morning it’s a beachcomber’s delight. The view of crunchy white sand and gentle waves set against the backdrop of Diamond Head Crater is hard to match. By midmorning, however, this sunny mecca is alive with tourists from around the world exploring hundreds of designer stores and lesser knowns; discovering restaurants for every taste and budget; and claiming their own patch of sparkling beach. Just before sunset, Kuhio Beach Park at the Diamond Head side of Waikiki hosts free hula and Hawaiian music performances every day except Monday. In the evening, Waikiki kicks into nightlife mode. Open-air beach bars come alive with music and mai tais, but you can always find a mellow corner to kick back and enjoy things from a distance, if you prefer. By late evening you might be sweating on a crowded dance floor or just curling your toes into the cool sand under the stars. That’s why I always end up liking Waikiki much more than I ever expect to. The city wears well over time, and I always leave with a greater affinity for it than when I arrived.
A full 70 percent of Hawai‘i’s 1.3 million residents live on O‘ahu (the gathering place), and of those about half live in Greater Honolulu. The major metropolitan area is particularly attractive because it’s squeezed between the extinct Diamond Head, the dramatic Ko‘olau Mountains, and the boundless Pacific Ocean. Pearl Harbor sits ‘Ewa (at the easterly end). Yes, even today ancient Hawaiian terms are used to express directions in the city. Going inland toward the mountains is mauka (MOW-kah); reversing course toward the sea is makai (mahk-EYE). When you arrive at the airport and head to Waikiki, you are going “Diamond Head,” and when you visit Pearl Harbor your direction is ‘Ewa (AY-vah).
Almost a century ago Somerset Maugham expressed surprise at what a typical Western city Honolulu is, a reaction shared by today’s visitors. The unofficial capital of the Pacific Rim has plenty of high-rises and traffic, but it also has accessible waterfalls, mountains, a rain forest, and beaches within its boundaries. Visitors are always surprised at this as well as the rural character of the rest of O‘ahu.
But Maugham’s impression can be partially dispelled with a little probing off the freeways. There is nothing conventional about the collection of Pacific anthropology and natural history at the Bishop Museum, an excellent spot for an introduction to the natural and human forces that have shaped modern Hawai‘i. Chinatown and its vibrant markets are a historic potpourri of the Asian cultures blended so extensively into Hawaiian life. The ‘Iolani Palace, the only royal residence in the United States, flaunts a 19th-century, European-inspired grandeur. Even downtown Honolulu is fascinating in many ways. While the buildings may resemble those in any other American city, the atmosphere is tropical, and business dress can be remarkably casual. You’ll know you’re not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy, when you see Spam on the breakfast menu at McDonald’s. Give yourself at least a couple of days to explore Greater Honolulu.
As for the rest of O‘ahu, two mountain ranges dominate her geography. Remnants of volcanoes that exploded into bedrock, the Ko‘olau and Waianae Ranges run parallel to each other (north–south) for the length of the island. The shoreline around the Ko‘olaus is sometimes dramatically beautiful and always intriguing for its profound variations. To give you an impression of O‘ahu’s size, it’s convenient to know that the island is about 110 miles around (not including a detour up to Makaha). Without stopping (which would be silly), it would take you about three hours to drive around it. Although most visitors assume it’s the largest island because of Honolulu’s presence, O‘ahu is actually the third largest, after the Big Island and Maui (in that order).
High above the city, just 15 minutes from downtown, at the Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout, you can survey the other side of the Ko‘olaus. Few vantage points take my breath away as regularly. Keep going to reach Windward O‘ahu and Kailua, a pleasant commuter community. Beyond the adjacent town of Kane‘ohe, the countryside becomes increasingly rural. The Valley of the Temples, with its striking Buddhist shrine, definitely deserves a visit. The Polynesian Cultural Center is more questionable (to me), though this Mormon re-creation of South Pacific villages and native crafts is Hawai‘i’s most popular paid-admission attraction.
Let me backtrack for a minute, though. While the panorama from the Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout may be terrifically spectacular, the best way to reach the Windward Coast is to drive along the promontory of Southeast O‘ahu. From Waikiki, hug the shoreline beneath Diamond Head and through the exclusive Kahala neighborhood. Koko Head, another extinct crater, is the next landmark, rising weatherworn above Hanauma Bay, where the contours of the Pacific and the beach will match anyone’s image of paradise. From here the scenic coastal highway continues past beaches that are beautiful but dangerous for swimming, and into Kailua.
At the Turtle Bay Resort, the highway turns west off the Windward Coast to the North Shore, famous among surfers for its mighty waves. The beaches called Sunset, Banzai Pipeline, and Waimea attract the world’s best board enthusiasts every winter for daredevil play and international championships. Admiring the waves years ago, Jack London marveled: “Why, they are a mile long, these bull-mouthed monsters, and they weigh a thousand tons.” The sight and sound of one crashing ashore is, as London said, an ego-shrinking experience.
Beyond these death-defying beaches and the quaint town of Hale‘iwa, the highway heads inland, back to Honolulu. It crosses the valley between Central O‘ahu’s two mountain ranges through sugarcane and pineapple fields. On the right is Schofield Barracks, site of James Jones’s novel From Here to Eternity and the setting for the memorable movie version of the book. As you reenter the city, you get a good view of a more significant reminder of World War II, the intricate waterways of Pearl Harbor.
O‘ahu’s grand tour acquaints visitors with aspects of the authentic Hawai‘i that cannot even be glimpsed in Waikiki. It is a must-do, and is best in a rental car so that you can follow your own pace and interests. However you manage it, get out of Waikiki for at least one, preferably two, day trips. To roost in Waikiki and pretend to have been to Hawai‘i should be illegal.
GUIDANCE
Hawaiian Visitor’s and Convention Bureau (808-923-1811 or 1-800-464-2924; gohawaii.com), 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801. Open 8–4 weekdays. Contact them before your trip for a visitor’s packet, or stop in for tons of brochures, maps, and guides once you’re there.
O‘ahu Visitor’s Bureau (808-524-0722 or 1-877-525-6248; visit-oahu.com), 733 Bishop St. Open 8–4:30 weekdays. Their Island of O‘ahu Travel Planner, pocket map, and honeymooner’s brochure are helpful.
MORE WEB SITES
state.hi.us/dlnr (Hawai‘i’s Department of Land and Natural Resources) honolulumagazine.com (Honolulu Magazine)
NEWSPAPERS & RADIO
For news, pick up the daily Honolulu Advertiser (honoluluadvertiser.com) and Honolulu Star Bulletin (starbulletin.com), or the weekly Pacific Business News (bizjournals.com/pacific). The Honolulu Weekly (honoluluweekly.com) is a fine complimentary guide available at many restaurants and clubs. The free 101 Things to Do on O‘ahu and This Week O‘ahu are also very helpful, and are loaded with coupons and maps.
For aloha tunes, dial the FM radio to 98.5 KDNN, 100.0 KCCN, 99.5 KHUI, 90.3 KTUH, and 105.1 KINE. For news, tune your AM dial to 590 KSSK. You’ll find NPR programming on 88.1 KHPR.
INTERNET & POST OFFICE
ShakaNet is in the process of completing free WiFi throughout Waikiki.
WEATHER
Check with the National Weather Service (808-973-4381) when it matters most.
MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Queens Medical Center (808-538-9011), 1301 Punchbowl St., Honolulu. Open 24/7; includes a trauma center.
Straub Clinic and Hospital (808-522-4000), 888 S. King St., Honolulu. Open 24/7.
Ku‘akini Medical Center (808-536-2236), 347 N. Ku‘akini St., Nu‘uanu. Open 24/7.
Holistica Hawai‘i Health Center (808-951-6546; holistica.com), Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa, 2005 Kalia Rd. This outstanding wellness center offers state-of-the-art scans with an EBT scanner.
GETTING THERE
By air from the mainland: Practically all major U.S. airlines fly into Honolulu.
By Interisland air: Hawaiian Airlines (808-838-1555 or 1-800-367-5320; hawaiianair.com), Aloha Airlines (808-484-1111 or 1-800-367-5250; alohaairlines.com), and Go! Airlines (1-888-435-9462; iflygo.com) fly to neighbor islands.
A NOTE ABOUT TIMING
Even though you’d be better off on “Hawai‘i time,” taking it easy and not planning too much, a few tips will take you a long way toward maximizing your time in Hawai‘i. Don’t try to cram too much into any one day. You can circle the island in a day, but only if you don’t linger at any of the more significant sights. Visit the USS Arizona and Pearl Harbor early in the morning, before bigger crowds assemble. Plan on half a day at the Bishop Museum. Spend an afternoon (preferably not on the weekend) barefoot on the North Shore and in Hale‘iwa. Hanauma Bay is closed on Tuesday; the Polynesian Cultural Center is closed on Sunday; Saturday mornings are the most colorful in Chinatown.
GETTING AROUND
From the airport: The quickest and easiest way from the airport to Waikiki is by taxi. Star Taxi (808-942-7827 or 1-800-671-2999; startaxihawaii.com) takes up to five passengers from the airport for a flat fee of $30, but you must book in advance. The ride takes 20–45 minutes, depending on the time of day. Shuttles to hotels are available through Roberts Hawaii (808-271-4765). Be sure you know the exact name of your hotel; many sound similar, and you don’t want to get dropped off at the wrong one. Because of luggage restrictions, taking TheBus (see next page) is impractical unless you are traveling very light. Unless you’re staying outside Honolulu, don’t bother with a rental car at the airport. They are readily available and often less expensive in Waikiki, and you won’t want to deal with driving and parking problems (including pricey overnight rates) upon your arrival.
By car in general: You’ll regret it if you don’t explore the wealth of O‘ahu for a couple of days (at the very least). Besides, isn’t that why you bought this book—to explore?
Directions are easy once you know four critical words: Diamond Head versus ‘Ewa, and mauka versus makai. Locals don’t generally use directionals like north, south, east, and west. Instead, you’ll hear “head Diamond Head at the next corner,” which means “head in the direction of Diamond Head.” Or “turn ‘Ewa when you reach the banyan tree,” which means “head in the westerly direction toward the town of ‘Ewa.” Mauka means “head toward the mountains,” and makai means “head toward the sea” (as in, “head makai for three blocks”).
By bus: TheBus (808-848-5555; thebus.org). With over 70 routes and 4,000 stops, this incredibly well-developed bus system goes everywhere you’ll want to go. Buses run from about 5 AM until midnight; they run every 15 minutes during the daylight hours and about every 30 minutes after dark. Tickets cost only $2; free transfers are available. Consider purchasing a four-day Visitor Pass from any ABC store for unlimited rides ($20).
Utilizing this system in Honolulu is quite easy. One of the more popular routes, with service every 10 minutes, is the No. 8 between Waikiki and Ala Moana Center (which takes 15 minutes). Hotel concierges usually have a bus route map for all the popular attractions, as does TheBus Web site. You can do a Circle Island tour in about four hours. The No. 55 runs counterclockwise along the South Shore, through Kane‘ohe up to the North Shore. The No. 52 runs clockwise through Central O‘ahu to the North Shore. To make it all the way around the island you have to transfer at Turtle Bay Resort.
ISLANDWIDE
Tours by foot: Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club (htmclub.org), Honolulu. This group leads regularly scheduled hikes from ‘Iolani Palace. For a schedule of upcoming hikes, visit their Web site.
Tours by bike: Bike Hawai‘i (808-734-4214 or 1-877-682-7433; bikehawaii.com), Honolulu. This group offers mountain biking tours, all-day bike-hikes, and sailing and snorkeling options. Try their Downhill Biking Adventure through a lush rain forest combined with either a hike or a sail and snorkel. Honolulu City & County Bicycle Coordinator (808-527-5044; state.hi.us/dot/highways/bike/oahu) has more information than you can shake a wheel at, including great regional maps.
Tour by air: Island Seaplane (808-836-6273; islandseaplane.com), 85 Lagoon Dr., Honolulu. Looking for a different vantage point? Something a little out of the ordinary? Try these 30-and 60-minute flights ($125 and $230 per person, respectively). Skimming into Honolulu Harbor harks back to an earlier time, and it’s a heck of a lot of fun. The shorter tour takes in Diamond Head, Kahala, Hanauma Bay, and Kane‘ohe Bay. The longer tour heads up the Windward Coast to the North Shore and returns via Central O‘ahu and over Pearl Harbor. Take the latter if you can swing it.
DRIVING TIMES & DISTANCES
Waikiki to Kailua (via Southeast O‘ahu) = 25 miles, about 50 minutes
Waikiki to Kailua (via Pali Hwy.) = 10 miles, about 30 minutes
Waikiki to Pearl Harbor = 11 miles, about 30 minutes
Kailua to Hale‘iwa = 50 miles, about 2 hours
Waikiki to Hale‘iwa (via H-2) = 30 miles, about 60 minutes
Waikiki to Yokohama Beach (Leeward O‘ahu) = 44 miles, about 75 minutes
Hiking: Mauka Makai Excursions (808-255-2206; hawaiianecotours.net). This deservedly award-winning outfit specializes in full-and half-day eco trips that highlight places of cultural significance, like sacred archaeological sites. They’re highly sensitive and knowledgeable, and they talk story with the best of them. Book any of their trips and be the richer for it.
O‘ahu Nature Tours (808-924-2473; oahunaturetours.com) offers myriad excellent tours for all abilities.
Department of Lands and Natural Resources (808-587-0300; hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp), 1151 Punchbowl St., Room 131, Honolulu. Check the Web site for details about 33 state park trails. It’s an invaluable resource.
Na Ala Ele (808-973-9782; hawaiitrails.org) is an excellent resource for hiking, as is the Sierra Club (hi.sierraclub.org) and the Nature Conservancy (808-537-4508; nature.org).
Underwater: Aaron’s Dive Shop (808-262-2333 or 1-888-847-2822; hawaii-scuba.com), 307 Hahani St., Kailua (see “The Windward Coast”). This full-service shop and tour company offers summertime beach dives off the North Shore and wintertime beach dives off the Leeward Coast (weather permitting, of course). Daily, two-tank boat dives, as well as wreck dives to places like Mahi, are more popular. Boat and beach dives begin at $125 per person, pickup and gear included. Make reservations a couple of weeks in advance during high season (a few days ahead in off season).
Art: Arts with Aloha (808-532-8713), 900 S. Beretania St., Honolulu 96814. This thick brochure covers the music, theater, and visual arts scene on O‘ahu. Ask for one in advance of your arrival.
Camping: Permits (and sometimes small fees) are required for camping at the four state parks and a dozen county beach parks (not all of which are reviewed in this chapter). With the exception of Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area, all are closed on Wednesday and Thursday in an effort to keep folks from living at the beach and, ostensibly, to give authorities time to clean the facilities. For state parks, contact the Department of Lands and Natural Resources, State Parks Division (808-587-0300), P.O. Box 621, Honolulu 96809. For county-run beach parks, contact the Honolulu Department of Parks and Recreation (808-523-4525), 650 S. King St., Honolulu 96813. Keep in mind that there’s no place to rent camping gear on O‘ahu.
Golf: To beat astronomical costs of greens fees, contact Stand-by Golf (1-888-645-2665; stand-bygolf.com; taking calls 7 AM–11 PM) for same-or next-day tee times.
Special Events
For a complete list of islandwide events, consult calendar.gohawaii.com.
Late January: Ala Wai Challenge, Ala Wai Park, Waikiki. This all-day Hawaiian sporting event includes ancient games, tug-of-war, and a quarter-mile outrigger canoe race.
Late January–February: Narcissus Festival (808-533-3181), Honolulu. Part of the Chinese New Year celebration, this four-week festival includes food stalls, arts and crafts, and a beauty pageant.
February: NFL Pro Bowl (808-486-9300; nfl.com), Honolulu. The best professional football players get to come to Hawai‘i for this prestigious postseason game.
Sand Castle Building Contest (808-956-7225), Kailua Beach Park, Kailua. Watch the students from the University of Hawai‘i School of Architecture put their design skills to work building intricate sculptures.
Late March: Prince Kuhio Celebrations, statewide. On March 26 Hawai‘i celebrates the birth of Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, who served as a congressional delegate from 1903 to 1921.
March or April: Annual Easter Sunrise Service (808-532-3720), National Cemetery of the Pacific, Punchbowl Crater, Honolulu.
May 1: Lei Day, statewide. The phrase “May Day is Lei Day” was coined by Grace Tower Warren in 1928 when Lei Day was conceived.
Late May: Memorial Day (808-532-3720), celebrated at the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific in Honolulu, includes a solemn 9 AM ceremony recognizing the soldiers who died defending their country.
May–August: Outrigger Canoe Season (808-261-6615; y2kanu.com), statewide. Canoe races are held most weekends across the state.
June: King Kamehameha Celebration (808-383-7798; hawaii.gov/dags/king_kamehameha_commission), statewide. Hawai‘i’s longest-running festival honors King Kamehameha, unifier of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
July 4: Fourth of July Fireworks (808-656-0110), Desiderio and Sills Field, Honolulu. This all-day celebration includes games, entertainment, and, of course, fireworks.
Third Sunday in July: Prince Lot Hula Festival (808-839-5334), Moanalua Gardens, Honolulu.
July: Queen Liliuokalani Keiki Hula Competition (808-521-6905), Neal Blaisdell Center, Honolulu. Five hundred keikis (children), representing 22 schools, take part in this competition.
Mid-to late August: Admissions Day, statewide. On the third Friday in August, all islands celebrate the day Hawai‘i became the 50th state.
TOP 10 “MUSTS” FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS
Stop at the Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout
Get quiet at Pearl Harbor
Have a drink at House Without a Key
Visit the wonderful Waikiki Aquarium
Watch North Shore waves roll in
Tour the ‘Iolani Palace
Hike Diamond Head
Take a walking tour of Chinatown
Stroll Waikiki Beach at sunset
Visit the Bishop Museum
September: Aloha Festivals (808-589-1771; alohafestivals.com), statewide.
November 11: Veteran’s Day (808-532-3720), National Cemetery of the Pacific, Greater Honolulu. A solemn ceremony is held here. Call for time.
Mid-November: Triple Crown of Surfing (808-638-7266; triplecrownofsurfing.com), North Shore. The world’s best pro surfers demonstrate their versatility, strength, skill, and fearlessness. Prize money tops $1 million.
December: Festival of Trees (808-547-4371), Amfac Plaza, Honolulu. Year-round volunteers (self-proclaimed “glue sniffers”) glue and sew stuffed animals, pillows, festive wreaths, and ornaments to sell at this charity benefit.
Festival of Lights (808-547-4397), Honolulu. Holiday festivities begin with the mayor lighting the trees in front of Honolulu Hale.
Honolulu Marathon (808-734-7200; honolulumarathon.org). More than 30,000 runners take to the streets between Ala Moana Beach Park and the Kapi‘olani Park Bandstand.
Rainbow Classic (808-956-6501), University of Hawai‘i, Manoa Valley. Eight of the best NCAA basketball teams compete at the end of the month.
TOP 10 IDEAS FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Cruise the Honolulu Academy of Arts
Hang out at Lanikai Beach
Snorkel at Hanauma Bay
Play a round at Ko Olina Golf Course
Ride outrigger canoes on Waikiki Beach
Buy a lei from a tiny Chinatown shop
Drive Round Top and Tantalus Drives
Take an early-morning swim at Sans Souci Beach
Tour with Mauka Makai Excursions
Hike Manoa Falls Trail