THE NORTH SHORE
The North Shore epitomizes laid-back. It’s best to slow down and enjoy the pace—unless, that is, you’re a surfer dude competing in a world-class event. Then you’d better be on your toes, since mammoth winter waves routinely reach 30 feet and the beaches are filled with spectators watching you strut your stuff. You might wonder what the fuss is all about in summer, however, when the gentle swells are far from intimidating.
No matter the month, the North Shore is a step back in time, and Hale‘iwa is the epicenter of the action. Deemed a Historic and Scenic District in the mid-1980s, Hale‘iwa is a funky little town lined with old wooden buildings that house surf shops, low-key eateries (of surprisingly high quality), and one-of-a-kind retailers. Despite the presence of these little commercial operations, the North Shore is otherwise undeveloped for tourism. There are very few overnight accommodations (save for one big resort) along the shoreline. And therein lies a great part of the North Shore’s appeal. It feels real. Slip off your sandals, hang around for an afternoon, slurp some shaved ice, ogle buff bodes at the competitions, and admire the athleticism and artistry of the master surfers. It’s about an hour’s drive from Honolulu. Relax, stay as long as you want, and discover the cadence of Hawai‘i time.
To really get away from the crowds, take the Farrington Highway to its desolate, western conclusion just shy of Ka‘ena Point, which is accessible only by foot. There is no circular road around O‘ahu’s shoreline.
GETTING AROUND
By car: You’ll approach the North Shore in one of two directions: by continuing a counterclockwise tour of the island from Windward O‘ahu or by shooting up from Greater Honolulu via the H-1 and H-2 through Central O‘ahu. For the latter, at the rotary just south of Hale‘iwa, head leftward on the Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930) to reach the end of the road near Ka‘ena Point, or head right via the Kamehameha Hwy. (Hwy. 83) for Hale‘iwa. This section is organized as if you’ve opted for the former, a circle trip of the island. All sights listed below are on or just off the Kamehameha Highway. When there are big winter swells, North Shore traffic can crawl at a snail’s pace. There is simply nowhere for cars to pull over and watch the action. The same is true, albeit to a lesser extent, on weekends in general.
BUILDING BLOCKS FOR A PERFECT DAY ON THE NORTH SHORE
Shop, hang out, and have lunch in Hale‘iwa (4 hours)
Eat Shave Ice from Matsumoto’s (30 minutes)
Watch surfers at Sunset Beach & Banzai Pipeline (Ehukai Beach Park) (2 hours)
Visit the sacred Pu‘u o Mahuka Heiau (1 hour)
Catch a snack at the shrimp trucks (45 minutes)
Linger over dinner at Turtle Bay Resort (2 hours)
To See & Do
Turtle Bay to Hale‘iwa
Turtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., between Kahuku and Sunset Beach. Even if you’re not staying here, pop in and make a beeline for the dramatic shoreline. The walking trails skirting the beach heading toward Kahuku are great for early-morning beachcombing, and there is good snorkeling in the protected, adjacent Kuilima Cove. If you’re famished and can’t wait until you reach Hale‘iwa, my preferred eatery is Ola (see Dining Out), which is right on the beach.
Sunset Beach. See Beaches.
Banzai Pipeline (at Ehukai Beach Park), across from Sunset Beach School. Banzai Pipeline, also known as the Pipeline or simply the Pipe, is one of O‘ahu’s premier surfing spots when the winter swells roll in from the North Pacific. The pipeline gets its name from the extraordinary wave shapes, as if they were tumbling over huge but invisible barrels. Famous for its shallow reef that creates an awesome break, it’s also renowned for breaking heads. In summer, however, like most of the North Shore, the surf is gentle as can be, and the swimming is excellent. Banzai Pipeline is actually part of Ehukai Beach Park. Facilities: Showers, restrooms, lifeguards.
SURFING THE BANZAI PIPELINE
Shark’s Cove, across from the old Shell gas station. Shark’s Cove is a busy North Shore spot, well known around O‘ahu for excellent spring and summer snorkeling. You can rent snorkel sets nearby at Planet Surf (next to Foodland Supermarket). Ask locals how Shark’s Cove got its name, and you’ll hear a variety of amusing stories. More dangerous are the fantastic underwater caves just offshore, an area designated as Pupukea Marine Life Conservation District. Although these caves are popular with experienced divers, newcomers should enjoy them only in the company of a local expert.
Three Tables Beach. See Beaches.
Pu‘u o Mahuka Heiau, 0.5 mile up Pupukea Rd., off Kamehameha Hwy. (turn at Foodland Supermarket); a sign points to the heiau, another 0.75 mile in. Well worth a side trip, this ancient heiau is the largest on O‘ahu. Portions of Pu‘u o Mahuka are overgrown, but you can sense its spirit in the low stone walls, especially when you take in the panoramic view of the bay and beyond.
Waimea Valley Center (808-638-7766), 59-864 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 9–5:30 daily. This center opened in 2003 with the hope of reclaiming a once-pristine nature preserve that is home to over 5,000 species of flora and fauna. It encompasses several hundred lush acres of rare greenery and bird life. There are paths good for strolling and rich archaeological excavations, including several sacred heiau sites. Gardens are well labeled and there are birds galore, from common moor-hens and peafowl to red-crested cardinals and Caspian terns. The 40-foot Waimea Falls is one of the main attractions; you can even take a dip in the pool. $10 adults, $5 ages 4–12.
Waimea Bay Beach Park. See Beaches.
Hale‘iwa
North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum (808-637-8888), North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale‘iwa. Open 11–6 Wed.–Mon. This low-key house of surf memorabilia is a delightful collection of odds and ends, a lot like the North Shore itself! You’ll find old wooden surfboards, surf movie posters, a photo gallery, and classic aloha shirts on display. If the surf’s up, don’t count on predictable open hours. We all have our priorities. Donations accepted.
West of Hale‘iwa
Waialua. Located between Hale‘iwa and Mokuleia, off Crozier Dr. via Hale‘iwa Rd. Waialua is an old sugar plantation town, although its sugar mill (O‘ahu’s last) closed for good in 1996. There are a few shops serving the community around the old mill. Although the town itself has seen better days, coffee trees were planted after the mill closed in the hope of reviving the community. Several old plantation buildings are worthy of a look-see, including a bank-turned-bar.
PU’U O MAHUKA HEIAU
Farrington Highway (Hwy. 930) branches west past Dillingham Airfield toward the state park at Ka‘ena. The main thoroughfare along the remote western section of the North Shore branches off just south of Waialua. Turn left on Farrington Highway to reach Waialua, Mokuleia Beach Park, and Dillingham Airfield. Beyond Dillingham, you’ll eventually come to the North Shore entrance for Ka‘ena Point State Park, a rugged coastal terrain accessible only by foot.
KAMEHAMEHA HIGHWAY, HALE‘IWA
Outdoor Activities
BICYCLING
Raging Isle (808-637-7707; ragingisle.com), 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale‘iwa, rents mountain bikes for about $40 per 24-hour period.
BIRD-WATCHING
See Waimea Valley Center under To See & Do.
GOLF
Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-8574; turtlebayresort.com), 57-049 Kuilima Dr., Kahuku. Greens fees at the windy and challenging Palmer Course are $185 daily ($110 after 2 PM); at the more “forgiving” Fazio Course, they run $160 daily ($90 after 2 PM). Make reservations two weeks in advance.
HIKING
Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-8811; turtlebayresort.com), Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. This 800-plus-acre resort has a dozen miles of walking trails, including five that run along the shoreline. Ask for a free map from the concierge.
Kaunala Loop Trail, off Pupukea Rd. High above Waimea Valley, and overlooking all of Waimea Bay, this O‘ahu hike is one of my favorites, although it’s open only on weekends. The 4-mile trail takes about two and a half hours, and along the way there are swamp mahogany trees, streambeds to cross, and exotic tree ferns.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-8811; turtlebayresort.com), Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. Rides daily. These stables offer two slow-paced, follow-the-leader-type trail rides that go across beaches, cut through a magnificent ironwood forest, and conclude in a meadow. The 45-minute ride ($50) leaves at four specified times throughout the day. The one-and-a-half-hour trip starts at 4 PM ($80). Call ahead for reservations and age and weight restrictions.
TENNIS
Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-8811; turtlebayresort.com), 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. Open daily. Along with clinics and rentals, this popular facility has eight Plexipave courts. Court time costs $10 hourly; reserve in advance to avoid disappointment.
WAITING TO CATCH A WAVE
WATER SPORTS
Surf-n-Sea (808-637-9887; surfnsea.com), 62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., next to the Rainbow Bridge, Hale‘iwa. Open 9 AM–7 PM daily. Look to the knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff here for one-stop shopping for water adventure tours and lessons. They also sell and rent equipment for snorkeling, diving (for certified divers and beginners), sea kayaking, and surfing. Lessons and excursions venture along the western and northern coasts, depending on the season and conditions. Dive in Shark’s Cove ($75–135) or sign up for an all-inclusive surfing lesson ($85). These folks have whatever suits your pleasure, as long as you’re getting in the water.
TOP BEACHES ON O‘AHU
For Swimming & Sunbathing
Lanikai Beach (Windward O‘ahu)
Ala Moana Beach Park (Greater Honolulu)
Sans Souci Beach (aka Kaimana Beach) (Waikiki)
Sunset Beach (North Shore)
Pokai Bay Beach Park (Central & Leeward O‘ahu)
For Walking
Kapi‘olani Beach (Waikiki)
Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area (Windward O‘ahu)
Waikiki Beach (Waikiki)
Waimanalo Bay Beach Park (Southeast O‘ahu)
Lanikai Beach (Windward O‘ahu)
For Snorkeling & Water Sports
Hanauma Bay (Southeast O‘ahu)
Kailua Beach Park (Windward O‘ahu)
Three Tables Beach (North Shore)
Waimea Bay Beach Park (North Shore)
Hans Hedemann Surf School (808-924-7778; hhsurf.com), at the Turtle Bay Resort (and the Kahala Hotel & Resort and the Park Shore Waikiki Hotel…while we’re at it). This championship surfer dude has been winning contests since, like, the mid-1970s. He can help anyone get their sea legs.
Beaches
In order of preference.
Sunset Beach, unmarked on the Kamehameha Hwy.; look for Mile Marker 9. Perhaps the most famous of several world-class North Shore surf spots, Sunset Beach is a 2-mile-long strip of white sand that borders crystal-clear seas. In spring and summer it’s generally placid and perfect for swimming and sunbathing. In winter months, though, it often sports 15-to 20-foot waves, attracting top surfers from Hawai‘i and beyond. Facilities: Lifeguard, picnic tables, highway parking.
Banzai Pipeline (at Ehukai Beach Park). See To See & Do.
Waimea Bay Beach Park, just south of Pupukea Beach Park, Waimea. A gorgeous beach set in a tight cove, Waimea also has excellent swimming during summer months before it turns fierce come winter. Then it becomes another favorite of world-class surfers who challenge its monster waves and steep shorebreak. When Waimea calms down, it’s great for bodysurfing. When the surf’s up in winter, come early to watch the pros and also to get one of the prized parking spots. Facilities: Lifeguard, showers, restrooms, picnic tables, free parking.
Three Tables Beach, Kamehameha Hwy., 0.5 mile east of Waimea Bay. Adjacent to Shark’s Cove, this beach gets its name from the three flat ledges rising just above the water. It has great snorkeling and diving in summer, when you can often spot (or swim with) giant sea turtles. Farther out, coral caves and lava arches await serious divers. This is a summer-only spot; in winter, dangerous riptides flow between the beach and the tables. The beach has several tide pools worth exploring, but beware of sharp rocks and coral. Facilities: None, except at nearby Shark’s Cove.
Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park, adjacent to the small Hale‘iwa boat harbor. This well-protected beach park offers the North Shore’s safest year-round swimming, especially at the south end. On winter weekends the county offers free surf lessons. If you get the fever, you can rent your own board from the shop that’s closest: Surf-n-Sea (see Water Sports). The beach on the other side of the harbor is also good for swimming and features volleyball and basketball courts, plus a grassy softball field. Facilities: Both beaches have lifeguards year-round, picnic tables, showers, restrooms.
SUNSET BEACH
Lodging
The pickings are slim up here, which is a shame because it’s a downright dramatic place to stay. But perhaps that’s part of the allure: It hasn’t sold its soul to tourism. Team Real Estate (808-637-3507 or 1-800-982-8602; teamrealestate.com) has plenty of listings for North Shore vacation rentals.
Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-8811 or 1-800-203-3650; turtlebayresort.com), 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. The world’s most celebrated surfing waves, where titanic peaks of water hammer the shoreline each winter, are just down the road from here. And although the waves are less menacing around the hotel, they still have an explosive, spellbinding majesty. Luckily, the hotel also has a calm, reef-protected beach (Kuilima Cove) for sunning, snorkeling, surfing, kayaking, or scuba diving. In this remote outback, guests basically have all the sporting facilities to themselves; there’s no jockeying for position in lines of tourists. With a recent $35 million renovation (in 2004), the resort again compares favorably to its setting. An open-air lobby sets the stage with floor-to-ceiling windows displaying expansive ocean views. Rooms are soothing and blend nicely with the outdoor elements. As for the 42 lovely beachfront cottages—complete with a separate check-in area—snag one if you can. They feature marble bathrooms with great soaking tubs, hardwood floors, and lanais where you’ll linger far too long on teakwood chaises. As of early June 2008, the resort was under new management and there were controversial plans afoot to develop the 848-acre parcel with five new hotels. The state is also considering purchasing a huge tract of the land to preserve it. Rates: $$$–$$$$, children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 443 rooms, suites, and beach cottages; two heated pools; swimmable beach; five restaurants (including 21 Degrees North and Ola [see Dining Out]; two golf courses; 10 tennis courts; fitness center; Spa Luana; concierge; shops; children’s programs; resort fee (includes tennis courts, fitness center, snorkeling gear, and parking).
Santa’s (808-962-0100 or 1-800-262-9912; bestbnb.com), North Shore. This is a rare find because of one magic word: oceanfront. Occupying the first floor of a private residence (with the most accommodating hosts in the world), the apartment is on a quiet little lane just off the main highway. On weekends, though, the area is hopping with surfers, tourists, and locals out for a drive. As the name implies, the Santa Claus theme pervades every nook and cranny at Santa’s. The unit is also outfitted with every conceivable convenience for his elves. A small living room has a great entertainment center, tons of movies, and a sleeper sofa for an additional guest. The fully equipped kitchen is generously stocked with coffee and fruit (and more) to get you started. A very pleasant gazebo rests at sand’s edge, the perfect place for a postsunset drink. As for sunset drinks, walk up the side of the house and down the steps onto the beach. It doesn’t get any better. Book very, very early! There’s only one Santa. Rates: $$; three-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: TV, phone, A/C, no smoking.
SURFING COMPETITION
WAIMEA BAY BEACH PARK
TURTLE BAY RESORT
BLISSFUL BEACH AT SUNSET
Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (808-638-8829 or 1-866-638-8229; keikibeach.com), 59-579 Ke Iki Rd., Hale‘iwa. It’s hard to beat the rarefied beachfront location of these units. And now it’s hard to beat the actual bungalows themselves. In 2007, the new owners plunged $1 million into enlarging two units and remodeling interiors. Each bungalow comes with a full kitchen, telephones, and TV. Book four to six months in advance. No kidding! Rates: $$. Facilities and amenities: 11 units, some on the beach and worth every cent of their higher price tag; cleaning fee $50–100 (ask about water sport equipment and bicycles), TV, A/C in one unit only, no smoking.
Backpackers Vacation Inn & Plantation Village (808-638-7838; backpackers-hawaii.com), 59-788 Kamehameha Hwy. For the surfer dude in all of us, this hostel, across from Three Tables Beach (between Shark’s Cove and Waimea) offers Spartan and rustic dorms, studios, private rooms, and private cabins. Rates: $–$$. Facilities and amenities: dorms with shared bath and kitchen, cabins and studios with private bath and a full kitchen or kitchenette, TV, linens, bike rentals, (inexpensive) all-you-can-eat meals, water sports equipment rental.
Camp Mokuleia (808-637-6241; campmokuleia.com), 68-729 Farrington Hwy., west of Hale‘iwa and 4 miles east of Ka‘ena Point. Way up on the northwestern tip of the North Shore, you’ll find a 9-acre Episcopal camp and conference center that offers camping (on the beach and on grassy areas), cabins that sleep 14–22 people, a studio cottage, lodge rooms (with and without a private bath), and a three-bedroom beach house. This place is a gem of a getaway. Don’t be put off by other groups staying here; it’s just a fact, and there’s plenty of privacy for all. Call for rates and reservations.
Where to Eat
There are plenty of funky, vegetarian eateries up here that offer excellent value. A couple are O‘ahu institutions. Hang out for a while, pretend you have time on your hands, and get into the spirit of the place. Unless otherwise noted, all eateries are in Hale‘iwa. It’s too bad there aren’t more places to stay up here, because you could eat cheaply (and well) for days.
DINING OUT
Hale‘iwa Joe’s (808-637-8005; haleiwajoes.com), 66-011 Kamehameha Hwy. Open for lunch and dinner daily. This place has a great surfer-tropical atmosphere; it’s situated at the Anahulu Bridge overlooking the harbor and great sunsets; it has wonderful seafood and American menu selections (fish is always a great bet), good service, and moderate prices; bar drinks and pupus are available throughout the day; lunches revolve around sandwiches and salads. What more could you want? Hopefully you’ll get lucky and score a table on the lanai. Children’s menu. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.
Jameson’s by the Sea (808-637-6272; restauranteur.com/jamesons), 62-540 Kamehameha Hwy. Open for lunch and dinner daily, brunch on weekends. Sunsets are the big draw here. If you come, try their famous salmon pâté, grilled fish sandwiches, and crab and shrimp sandwich. I tend to skip the more pricey and formal upstairs dining room. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Brunch $–$$, lunch $$–$$$, dinner entrées $$$$.
21 Degrees North (808-293-881 or 1-800-203-3650; turtlebayresort.com), 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Turtle Bay Resort, Kahuku. Open Tues.–Sat. for dinner. Even if you’re not overnighting at the resort, it’s worth the drive up from Honolulu to dine here (or at Ola; see below). It takes about an hour, depending on traffic. Views of Turtle Bay through floor-to-ceiling windows are one thing; the contemporary island cuisine paired with refined Asian influences are another. Look for sumptuous dishes like lacquered salmon filet, braised Kona lobster, and rosemary crusted Colorado rack of lamb. The chef also strives to use all organic produce. Dinner entrées $$$$.
Ola at Turtle Bay Resort (808-293-0801; turtlebayresort.com), 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Turtle Bay Resort, Kahuku. Open for all three meals daily. Few locations rival that of Ola, in a tasteful, wooden pavilion-style building right on the beach. With that calling card, Chef Fred DeAngelo could have skimped on the cuisine. But he saw that bet and raised us one. I’ve never been disappointed here—by the romantic tiki torches after dark or the execution of such a discriminating menu. Since ola means “living or healthy,” it’s no surprise that all the produce used is grown in the area and that the fresh catch-of-the-day comes from nearby waters. Vegetarians and vegans are not slighted in the least. Children’s menu. Breakfast $, lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$$.
EATING OUT
Kua ‘Aina Sandwiches (808-637-6067), 66-610 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 11–8 daily. I’ll go out on a limb here: Kua ‘Aina makes Hawai‘i’s best burgers. (After almost 30 years in the same small space, it moved in the early 2000s and has never missed a beat.) As many folks order in as take out to the beach. Although the majority of patrons order juicy burgers (topped with a dozen choices), a minority thoroughly enjoy fish or turkey sandwiches. But what’s a burger without a fry, a Butch without a Sundance, a Jack Bauer without a Chloe? To that end, rest assured: The shoestring fries are as celebrated as the half-pound patties. Dishes $; no credit cards.
SHAVE ICE
In the olden days before refrigeration, when huge blocks of ice were carved up for home delivery, children would gather around, collect the ice shavings, and munch them down. Eventually Chinese immigrant workers from the sugar plantations started pouring sweet cane juices on top of the plain shavings. And then little shops started springing up to sell the stuff from paper cones, to be eaten with little wooden spoons. As with malasadas and lunch wagons, everyone has their beloved outlet for shave ice. When you’re on the North Shore, head to Matsumoto Shave Ice (808-637-4827; matsumotoshaveice.com; 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy.; open 9–6 daily). Since the early 1960s this family has been scooping the Hawaiian version of snow cones, doused with your choice of syrupy tropical flavoring. Liliko‘i, banana, and coconut are the most popular. To do like the locals, order it with sweet adzuki beans (a paste, really) and a scoop of ice cream.
Hale‘iwa Eats (808-637-4247), 66-079 Kamehameha Hwy. Open for lunch and dinner daily. This new, hip, and authentic Thai restaurant serves delicious curries (from Panang to Massaman), soups (from Tom Ka Gai to Tom Yum Goong), noodle dishes (from pad Thai to yellow curry), and sautés (from basil chicken to Thai sweet and sour). Dishes $–$$.
Café Hale‘iwa (808-637-5516), 66-460 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 7–1:45 daily. This famed, authentic hole-in-the-wall is excellent for breakfast. Join the sleepy-headed surfers or urbanites kicking back at Formica tables for a huge omelet and double espresso. And while the service is only decent, the food is great. Dishes $–$$.
Cholo’s Homestyle Mexican (808-637-3059), North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 10:30 AM–9 PM daily. It’s hard to beat a trifecta of good prices, good atmosphere, and good service—unless you add good cuisine. The Tex-Mex and homestyle Mexican dishes here are great, from grilled veggie burritos and spinach quesadillas to shrimp tacos and chicken fajitas. Order à la carte or full dinners. Dishes $–$$.
Kono’s Big Wave Café (808-637-9211), North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy. Open for breakfast and lunch daily. Another hole-in-the-wall, this one has terrific and cheap breakfast burritos, salads, smoothies, and sandwiches like mac-nut pesto and chicken. Mike, the owner, is a great guy. Dishes $.
Ted’s Bakery (808-638-8207), 59-024 Kamehameha Hwy. Open daily. Yes, it serves simple meals throughout the day to surfer dudes, but Ted’s is best known for its knockout pies—especially the chocolate haupia pie. Haven’t tried it yet? It’s a layered chocolate pudding and coconut custard topped with whipped cream. Dishes $.
Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck (808-293-1839), 505 Kamehameha Hwy., southeast of Turtle Bay Resort. Open noonish to sunsetish daily. These fresh little crustaceans, grown and harvested on the North Shore, represent all that is good about the North Shore. The best way to enjoy them is from a truck-turned-diner, outdoors at a picnic table, and slathered in butter, garlic, or a knock-your-socks-off secret spice. Dishes $$; no credit cards.
CHOLO’S HOMESTYLE MEXICAN
KONO’S BIG WAVE CAFÉ
WAIALUA BAKERY
NORTH SHORE SWIMWEAR
BAKERIES & COFFEE
Coffee Gallery (808-637-5355; roastmaster.com), 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 6:30 AM–8 PM daily. For a wicked strong cup of joe, Internet access, and lots of room to hang out, this funky café rules. Most dishes $.
Waialua Bakery (808-637-9079), 66-200 Kamehameha Hwy. Open 9–4 Mon.–Sat. One storefront off the main drag, this little place has smoothies, sandwiches, and aromatic loaves of cheese herb bread.
Entertainment
Jameson’s by the Sea (808-637-6272; restauranteur.com/jamesons), 62-540 Kamehameha Hwy. If you’re a mai tai fan, you’ll consider the bar here a place of preeminent entertainment. Just make sure you have a designated driver.
Selective Shopping
Hale‘iwa is favored for shopping because of its intimate scale and low-key, offbeat boutiques. There are more surf shops than you can shake a board at.
Oogenesis (808-637-4422), 66-249 Kamehameha Hwy. Open daily. Loose-fitting women’s clothes made of natural fibers.
Patagonia (808-637-1245; patagonia.com), North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy. Open daily. Although it’s a national retailer, I can’t help but include it. They also have a shop in Honolulu’s Ward Center.
North Shore Swimwear (808-637-7000 or 1-800-247-8487; northshoreswimwear.com), North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy. Open daily. For a great selection of custom swimwear and mix-and-match tops and bottoms, this low-pressure place gets high marks.
Celestial Natural Foods (808-637-6729), 66-443 Kamehameha Hwy. Open daily. This funky little place has sandwiches and salads, but also myriad natural groceries and locally infused products.