UPCOUNTRY & HALEAKALA
Upcountry—a term generally used to describe the small towns on the western slopes of Haleakala—will probably not conform to your conventional notions of Hawai‘i. It’s really another world. Some visitors even think of it as a separate island as they gaze across the central, flat isthmus from the West Maui Mountains and ask, “What island is that?” You’ll find eucalyptus and redwood trees, paniolos and hitching posts, farmers and famed onions, and cool breezes and cooler nighttime temperatures. All of Maui’s organic produce originates from these rich volcanic soils. With the exception of Haleakala Crater, Upcountry elevations fluctuate between 3,000 and 7,000 feet. Views are breathtaking. In trying to make sense of how you will explore, I have included here the coastal town of Pa‘ia (and the almost coastal town of Ha‘iku), which, depending on how much time you have, may or may not be better explored on your way to Hana.
Sitting at just over 10,000 feet, Mount Haleakala, “house of the sun,” is one of the most ethereal and mystical places in Hawai‘i. Throughout the day, the dormant volcano appears to hold up the clouds; it certainly looms over and dominates the landscape from practically every corner of the island.
For those who can adjust to Upcountry’s slow pace, the region really merits the attention. The natural beauty is sublime, from jacaranda and hibiscus to cactus and rare silversword, and authentic communities are refreshing and friendly. Yes, there are good beaches and expert windsurfing conditions on its northern side, but beyond those pleasures, visitor activities are pretty well confined to exploring the volcano, a few little towns, and a few little attractions. Follow my motto: Slow down, see more. Generally, ideally, you’ll want one day to explore Haleakala and another to get lost touring Upcountry.
BUILDING BLOCKS FOR A PERFECT DAY UPCOUNTRY
Hang out in Pa‘ia (2 hours)
Watch windsufers at Ho‘okipa Beach Park (30 minutes)
Gallery hop and shop in Makawao (2 hours)
Drive up Olinda Road (45 minutes)
Drive through the pineapple and sugarcane fields around Hali‘imaile (30 minutes)
Stop at the Pukalani Superette (15 minutes)
Visit a protea or lavender farm in Kula (1 hour)
Stop in at the ‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store or Tedeschi Vineyards (30 minutes)
Since most of you will have to pass by the Kahului Airport to reach Upcountry towns, for the purposes of organizing this tour I’ve oriented this section from there.
Although only 8 miles from the Kahului Airport in Central Maui, and technically not an Upcountry town, Pa‘ia nonetheless feels more aligned with Upcountry than it does with the adventure I call “To Hana & Beyond.” Because you could easily while away a morning shopping and eating, I suggest visiting on a separate trip from the one you take to Hana. So what’s here? Well, these days it’s a bunch of windsurfers, barefoot Rasta-braided hippies, granola-crunching kids strumming guitars, interesting shops and boutiques behind wooden storefront facades, and increasingly hip eateries. Back in the 1870s, though, Pa‘ia camps and company stores sprang into existence to serve Alexander & Baldwin’s sugar plantation community. A period of relative prosperity followed through World War II, when servicemen were stationed nearby. After the war, though, locals began moving to subdivisions in Kahului’s “Dream City,” also developed by Alexander & Baldwin. In the 1970s, beach bums and surfer dudes strolled in to fill the vacuum and never left. A strong counterculture atmosphere still prevails, at once tempered and fueled by good old-fashioned capitalism. It’s a decidedly laid-back place, friendly and low-key.
Ha‘iku, a short drive down the Hana Highway, seems off the beaten path but is surprisingly accessible. A former pineapple plantation town, Ha‘iku’s canneries have been converted to shops and restaurants. It’s a pastoral place to explore, its ranches dotted with cattle, sheep, and horses. Head into town from the Hana Highway on Hwy. 398 (Ha‘iku Rd.), meander along it until it merges back with the Hana Highway, and then cut back in again on Kapakalua Road (Hwy. 365).
From there, take a detour west into the speck of a village Hali‘imaile, dominated by a pineapple plantation and one of Maui’s best restaurants—worth a detour. Hwy. 371 runs alongside pineapple and sugarcane fields.
Or stay south on Hwy. 365 until it merges with Makawao Ave. in Makawao, which literally means “on the edge of the forest.” Like Pa‘ia (and just 7 miles from it if you come directly up from Baldwin Avenue), this little village grew to accommodate plantation workers in the 19th century. And then in the 1970s, artists and other West Coast exiles flocked here and began opening craft shops, art galleries, and New Age bookstores. Lush (and often wet) Makawao exists at the crossroads of Makawao and Baldwin Avenues. The old-fashioned wooden storefronts, complete with a hitching post or two, have the look of the Old West, but look closer and the tenants are more likely to be holistic entrepreneurs carrying health food and advertising yoga therapy. Don’t miss the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center.
CATTLE ENJOY THE COOL UPCOUNTRY.
For an utterly lovely, rural, aromatic drive, head up, up, up the one-way Olinda Road. (which begins at the corner of Makawao and Baldwin Avenues) into Olinda.
From Makawao, take Hwy. 377 (Haleakala Highway) to Pukalani, which means “hole in the heavens,” a quiet residential community with a golf course, Starbucks coffee shop, and a very local grocery store, then through Kula (and possibly to Haleakala Crater), and merge with Hwy. 37 for the Tedeschi Winery. To be sure: I recommend exploring Haleakala separately from Upcountry, but if this is the only time for it, so be it.
Rural Kula is home to ubiquitous protea farms and small farms specializing in onions and orchids. As you continue south on Hwy. 37, the landscape becomes drier and drier, almost desolate with cacti and stunted trees. This is the cattle country of Ulupalakua Ranch, where Tedeschi Winery creates the only tiny excuse you need to come this far.
From here, you could continue around the back side of Haleakala to Hana (if the road has reopened because of a washed-out bridge, and if you’re a real adventurer), but most people approach it from Ha‘iku, from the clockwise direction. If you go this route, bring plenty of water and food, and fill up the gas tank in Pukalani. (See “To Hana & Beyond.”)
BALDWIN AVENUE, PA‘IA
GETTING AROUND
By car: Hwy. 37 (aka the Haleakala Highway out of Central Maui) comes from the Kahului Airport and heads toward Makawao and Kula. Just beyond the turnoff for Makawao, though, it can get confusing. Hwy. 37 then becomes known as the Kula Highway, while Hwy. 377 keeps the name Haleakala Highway and heads up to the Haleakala Crater (via the zig-zagging spur road of Hwy. 378). Lower Kula Road spurs off Hwy. 37.
Hwy. 36 (aka Hana Highway) comes from the Kahului Airport and heads east toward Pa‘ia and Ha‘iku.
On a map, it seems reasonable that you should be able to drive from Wailea to Kula. But no. You have to go all the way back toward the airport and then head Upcountry. It takes about 40 minutes to get from Wailea to Kula, about an hour to get from Lahaina to Kula. From Makawao, it takes about one and a half hours to reach either Haleakala or Hana.
To See & Do
There aren’t many traditional sights, and yet this is Maui’s most diversified and interesting region. Expect to get lost on the quiet roads among the growing residential communities.
Pa‘ia
Baldwin Beach Park, about 6 miles east of the airport, 1 mile west of Pa‘ia. See Beaches.
Ho‘okipa Beach Park, about 2 miles east of Pa‘ia, on the Hana Highway. See Beaches.
Makawao
Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center (808-572-6560; huinoeau.com), 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open 10–4 daily. This lovely, Mediterranean-style estate a mile south of town offers arts and crafts classes, lectures, workshops, a gallery, and a great gift shop. Don’t miss the backyard pottery studio and reflecting pool. Begun by a group of women in 1934 and led by Ethel Baldwin (of sugar fame), the original collective (the so-called club of skills) painted, threw pots, and sketched here. Free.
Keokea
Dr. Sun Yat Sen Park, in this blink-of-an-eye nonvillage along Hwy. 37. This little park honors the first president of China, whose wife and family used to live on a nearby ranch when he was back in his homeland. Expansive views don’t outweigh the unrelenting sun for me, but you might find it a nice place to picnic.
Kula
Holy Ghost Church, off Hwy. 37. This white octagonal Catholic church was built by Portuguese immigrants in the mid-1890s.
Kula Botanical Garden (808-878-1715), Hwy. 377 near Hwy. 37. Open 9–4 daily. The signature flower of the region, the colorful protea, is quite well represented here. In fact, almost three-quarters of Hawai‘i’s proteas are cultivated on this 200-acre plot. Some specimens grow over 12 inches wide. You can take a self-guided tour of 5 lovely acres, which also feature koi ponds, streams, little bridges, and over 700 varieties of plants—including birds-of-paradise, orchids, bamboo, koa, and kukui trees (the state tree). $7.50 adults, $2 ages 6–12.
Ali‘i Kula Lavender (808-878-3004; aliikulalavender.com), 1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Open 9–4 daily. From lavender tea tours (complete with lavender-infused scones) to tours designed around how to cook with lavender, this one-note site is worth a stop because of its plantings and products.
Tedeschi Vineyards & Winery (808-878-6058; mauiwine.com), Hwy. 37. Open 9–5 daily; free tastings; free tours at 10:30, 1:30, and 3:00. Open to the public for tastings and 15-minute tours, the 22-acre winery sits in a former jail at the foot of Mount Haleakala. In addition to Hula O Maui sparkling wine and Upcountry Blush, the winery makes the requisite raspberry wine. The latter sounds more fun than it tastes, but this isn’t Napa Valley, now, is it? The adjacent pictorial history of the ranch, polo, and paniolo is worthwhile.
HUI NO’EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER
‘ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE
‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store (808-878-2561), Hwy. 37 across the street from Tedeschi Winery. Open 9:30–5 daily. Currently a cattle ranch, ‘Ulupalakua encompasses 20,000 acres of the southwestern back slope of Haleakala. In the mid-1850s, it was developed as a sugar plantation by whaling captain James McKee, who, in his time, hosted such dignitaries as Robert Louis Stevenson and King David Kalakaua. King David really enjoyed his host’s swimming pool, the first in the state. These days tourists pose at the ranch store to have their pictures taken with three wooden statues of paniolo and stop for a limited selection of snacks. Views of the West Maui Mountains, Molokini, and the Pacific are breathtaking from these parts.
Mount Haleakala
Haleakala National Park (808-572-4400; nps.gov/hale), Hwy. 378. Established in 1916, this national park is a powerful and mystical place. Ascending the park road is an experience you won’t soon forget, particularly the thrill of passing through clouds and then looking back down over them. It’s also a place where people play: They bicycle down it (half way at least), ride horseback into it, drive up it at sunrise (and at sunset, though less so), camp in it, and hike through it. Upward of 1.3 million folks visit the park annually—that’s an average of 3,500 per day. Since it sits at 10,023 feet, take altitude into consideration when you think about how best to approach your experience of the park.
Here are a few basic facts. It takes one and a half hours to drive to the summit from Kahului, longer from the resorts of Ka‘anapali and Wailea. Almost no matter where you’re coming from, you’ll take Hwy. 37 to Hwy. 377 (aka Haleakala Highway) to Hwy. 378 (aka Haleakala Crater Road). The road from sea level to summit traverses 37 miles and encompasses many switchbacks, and by the time you reach the top, you can expect the temperatures to be about 30 degrees colder than wherever you started. In wintertime, 40 mph winds and below-freezing temperatures are not uncommon. Wear as many layers of clothing as you can, bring your own food and water, and buy gas (last-chance) in Pukalani if you need to. To save your brakes, come down the volcano in low gear.
MOUNT HALEAKALA CRATER
Dormant since 1790, the volcano’s crater is 3,000 feet deep and measures 3 by 7 miles. It could swallow New York City in one gulp. So keep in mind, for perspective, that all those little cinder cones you’ll see—which look like little blips on the crater floor—are actually hundreds of feet high. On a clear day, the view atop Haleakala extends for 100 miles.
It’s a hearty but fragile ecosystem atop the volcano, and conditions for sustaining life are harsh. I’m thinking, in particular, of the endangered silversword plant, which looks like a yucca plant and grows only here on Hawai‘i. It has a fragile root system that can be ruined if the topsoil is compacted by footsteps; takes 10 to 40 years to mature and blossom (between May and August); puts out a stalk that can reach 8 feet high and is rife with hundreds of purple flowers; and dies after blooming once.
After paying your park entrance fee ($10 per car, good for a week), Hosmer Grove (6,800 feet) offers a short loop trail that takes about 30 minutes and provides a nice introduction to this climatic zone with eucalyptus, cypress, fir, and juniper. The park headquarters (7,000 feet; open 8–4 daily) is just beyond it. Campers should stop here. The Leleiwi Overlook, at about MM 17 and 8,000 feet, offers a short trail that leads to fine panoramic crater views. If you’re here in the late afternoon, you might get lucky and glimpse the “Brocken Specter,” whereby you can see your own shadow on the clouds with a rainbow’s arc overhead. Native Hawaiians referred to it as aka ku anue nue (“the seeing of one’s soul”).
Stopping at the Kalahaku Overlook, at about MM 19 and 9,300 feet, is permissible only on the way down. But keep it in mind because it has perhaps the best crater view of all and might, on a clear day, also take in Mauna Kea on the Big Island. If you haven’t seen any yet, look for the rare silversword plants here.
At the visitors center (about 9,700 feet), you can learn about the when, where, and how of these volcanic eruptions through exhibits, photographs, and other displays. Rangers give morning talks on the hour about volcanology and ecology. Many visitors, preferring to enjoy otherworldly red-brown cinder slopes from the comfort of a glass enclosure, think this is the summit. But it is not. Before heading there, walk the short trail up to Pa Ka‘oao (aka White Hill) for stunning 360-degree views. There’s another parking lot just up the way that’s closer to Pu‘u Ula‘ula (aka Red Hill), the highest point on Maui. Visitors gather here in the cold morning hours, behind the glass enclosure, to wait for sunrise. On a clear day you can squint and see O‘ahu, 130 miles in the distance. The facility just beyond here, Science City (aka Haleakala Observatory), is operated by the University of Hawai‘i and the Department of Defense to track satellites, conduct laser tests, and carry out solar and lunar research.
Haleakala National Park, by the way, consists of two distinct areas: the one mentioned above, and Kipahulu near Hana (see “To Hana & Beyond”). They aren’t connected by road, and they couldn’t be more different ecologically. Whereas the southwest slope of Haleakala is parched and lunar, the northeast slope is lush and tropical. The entire back side of southeast Maui is part of Haleakala National Park.
MAUI CAPTURES THE SUN
Hawaiians believe that during a legendary time long ago, when gods walked on earth as men and were known as “the People of Light,” the father who held the heavens and the mother who guarded the path to the netherworld bore a son. This son was the demigod Maui.
Maui’s mother, Hina, was well known for the fine bark cloth she made. One day while watching her, Maui said, “You spend all your time making tapa, mother.” To which Hina replied, “The day is never long enough when I am making tapa. This piece is ready to dry, but Sun is already disappearing.”
Maui, saddened by his mother’s disappointment, decided to track down Sun and tell him he traveled too swiftly, that the days were too short.
Hina was not pleased with this idea. “No, Maui. Sun is much too strong. He is a powerful god. No one has ever gotten close to him, and I will be very afraid for you if you try.”
“I will be the first to catch him; you will see, Mother. I will take my magic club and paddle, and I will catch the sun.”
Maui traveled to Sun’s home in a dead volcano and arrived while Sun was sleeping. In the secret darkness of the night, Maui set his snares. In the morning when Sun began to stretch his legs and arms in a big yawn, Maui quickly tied off four of his legs.
Sun was not pleased. With all of his fiery might he pulled and twisted, but the ropes held tight. “What do you want? Why are you doing this?” screamed Sun.
“My mother needs more hours in the day to dry her tapa.”
“Tapa! Are you mad? I don’t have time for this. Your people will die without my light. You need me!”
But Maui reeled and struck a mighty blow and broke off two of Sun’s rays. “How about we make a deal. Half of the year you can travel at your normal speed, but the other half of the year, you will give us more sunlight.” Sun, knowing he was trapped, agreed to these conditions.
From then on Sun moved slower for half the year, and every time he wanted to change his mind, he would look down at his broken limbs and remember the strength and courage of the half-god Maui.
Spas
Spa Luna (808-575-2440; spaluna.com), Ha‘iku Marketplace Cannery, 810 Ha‘iku Rd., Ha‘iku. Open weekdays; students work on Mon., Wed., and Fri. If resort prices leave you breathless, this holistic school for massage therapists might be just the thing to soothe your ragged wallet. The European-style day spa, a licensed training ground for aspiring professionals, offers massage, yoga, hydrotherapy, and more.
Outdoor Activities
BICYCLING/RENTALS
Maui Downhill (808-871-2155 or 1-800-535-2453; mauidownhill.com). Once on Maui, you’ll undoubtedly hear talk about biking down a volcano. Some visitors experience it as the most adventurous thing they’ve ever done; others find it expensive and a tad boring. If you want to try it, here’s the story. A van will arrange to pick you up at your lodging at some ungodly hour, such as 3 AM. Bring as many jackets and layers of clothing as you can find. (Many people bring hotel blankets.) The van driver will transport your sleepy self to the top of Haleakala and serve you some pastries while you all wait for the sun to rise over the volcano. After it does, your van will drive you back down the mountain, to just outside the Park boundaries. By this time, you’ll be donning Maui Downhill’s requisite flaming yellow jacket, pants, and motorcycle helmet. With the aid of specially designed brakes, you’ll then coast about 28 miles downhill in a few hours, always moderated by the pack leader with the slowest (usually lightest) person in mind. You need to appreciate the transitions along the way to really make it interesting. You’ll go from a very cold clime to a warm and humid one (peeling off layers of clothing along the way); from a rocky and seemingly lifeless environment to one that becomes increasingly greener with grasses and is then dotted with cows and horses; from eucalyptus and plumeria forests to pineapple and sugar tracts; from 10,000 feet to sea level. The price is $140, but if you book online you’ll save some serious cash.
Haleakala Bike Company (808-575-9575 or 1-888-922-2453; bike-maui.com), Ha‘iku Marketplace, off the Hana Hwy. near MM 11, Ha‘iku. If you have an aversion to group activities, this outfit will rent you a bike so you can ride down on your own. In October 2007, bike tours within park limits became off-limits. But individuals are still allowed to cruise downhill from the summit—if you can get yourself and the bike up there.
BOOGIE BOARDING
Head to Baldwin Beach Park; see Beaches.
BIKING HALEAKALA
GOLF
Pukalani Country Club (808-572-1314; pukalanigolf.com), 360 Pukalani St., off Hwy. 37, Pukalani. When you tire of the sky-high fees at other courses, head to this fun and easier course. Greens fees cost $78 before 11 AM and drop to $63 after 1:30 PM. You can make reservations up to seven days in advance.
HIKING
Haleakala National Park (HNP) (808-572-4400). The extreme weather atop and inside the volcano can change in a nanosecond, so you’ve got to be prepared for anything. Even for short jaunts, bring a hat, water, layers of clothing, and sunscreen. Once you start hiking and get away from the crowds, the silence can be profoundly stunning when you stop crunching volcanic rock underfoot. Serious hikers will need to get much more detailed information from the NPS Web site (nps.gov/hale) before departing and from the visitors center on arrival.
Sliding Sands Trail, HNP, from the summit of Haleakala (just beyond the Pu‘u Ula‘ula building). A very strenuous trail that descends almost 4,000 feet in 4 miles to the crater floor. Consider taking it 1 mile into the crater and then hiking back up. Remember, though, it isn’t called Sliding Sands for nothing.
Halemanu‘u Trail, HNP, from the visitors center. Six miles to the crater floor and beyond. Not for the faint of heart.
Hosmer Grove, HNP. See Mount Haleakala, To See & Do.
Polipoli State Park (808-984-8109), Waipoli Rd. Chilly and misty, foggy and unspoiled, this magical area is quite rewarding for those who venture into its heart. Only accessible with a four-wheel drive, this enormous tract of land, part of the Kula and Kahikinui Forest Reserve, was reforested in the 1920s. It’s now dense with redwoods, eucalyptus, cedar, ash, and cypress trees. You’ll probably wonder if you’re really in Hawai‘i. The Polipoli Loop Trail affords exceptional panoramic island views. The 5-mile hike takes about three hours and sits at an elevation of 5,300 to 6,300 feet. Take Hwy. 37 south of Kula, turn left onto Hwy. 377, turn right onto Waipoli Road, and then head up and up for just over 10 miles to the end of the road. Along the way, you’ll pass cattle grazing and open vistas stretching down to the ocean.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Pony Express Tours (808-667-2200; ponyexpresstours.com), Hwy. 378, on the road to Haleakala National Park. If you want to head deep into Haleakala Crater without exerting as much effort, these daylong jaunts are perfect ($182). Half-day ranch rides on the lower slopes of Haleakala cost $95–110. All levels of riders are accommodated. Reserve two weeks in advance in summer, one week in winter.
SURFING & WINDSURFING
Leave Ho‘okipa to the pros, whether they’re utilizing boards or sails. Windsurfers lay claim to morning waves, while surfers take their best shots in the afternoon. (If you’re visiting during March, April, or October, you can watch some serious big-board competitions.)
WEST MAUI MOUNTAINS FROM HO‘OKIPA BEACH
Hana Highway Surf (808-579-8999), 65 Hana Hwy., Pa‘ia. Board rentals cost $20 daily, but you need to leave a large deposit ($300–400) to take out their gear.
Beaches
In order of preference.
Ho‘okipa Beach Park, about 2 miles east of Pa‘ia, on the Hana Hwy. Modern-day Maui surfing began at world-renowned Ho‘okipa. With plenty of invisible rocky ledges just beneath the water’s surface, this beach is not for amateurs. Incessant winds make for great windsurfing in the morning, and by agreement, the professional surfers claim the liquid turf in the afternoon. There are great vantage points for watching the artful action, although it gets very crowded during weekend competitions. Facilities: parking, restrooms, showers, picnic tables.
Baldwin Beach Park, about 1 mile west of Pa‘ia, on the Hana Hwy. Good bodysurfing, and good swimming at either end of the curved beach.
Lodging
For the money, Upcountry lodging provides the most bang for the buck on Maui. But there are two conditions attached: Beach bums must drive for their sandy fixes, and visitors must want intimate lodging situations without resort coddling.
BED & BREAKFASTS AND VACATION RENTALS
Aloha Cottage (808-573-8555 or 1-888-328-3330; alohacottage.com), 1879 Olinda Rd., Makawao. Four miles north of town, these elegantly comfortable and romantic cottages—the Thai Tree House and Bali Bungalow—sit on the edge of an aromatic eucalyptus gulch and a large tract of undeveloped forest. A symphony of birds echoes from deep within the gulch; you can’t be sure if you’re in Thailand or Hawai‘i. That feeling continues once you step inside. Top-of-the-line amenities and furnishings, from teak cabinets to granite countertops, from Ralph Lauren sheets to Oriental carpets, indulge the senses. As befitting a property of this caliber, the getaways are perfectly private from the owner’s house. Book today or hold your peace. Rates: $$$ (discounts for weekly stays but more during holiday periods); three-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: two cottages, dinner by advance arrangement, cleaning fee for stays of less than three nights, no A/C, phones.
OLINDA ROAD
Banyan Tree House (808-572-8482; hawaiimauirentals.com), 3265 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. This three-bedroom, plantation-style main house is great for families, especially since it has a pool and nicely landscaped grounds. Inside it’s furnished in a breezy island style and features a kitchen that might tempt you to cook. The four simple but cheery cottages also have access to the pool, hammocks, and distant ocean views. You can rent the house as suites or in its entirety; breakfast is included with the suites. Rates: two-person cottages $$; three-bedroom house (sleeps up to nine) $$$–$$$$; there-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: four cottages, one house, pool, kitchen or kitchenette, cleaning fee of $200, no A/C.
The Inn at Mama’s Fish House (808-579-9764 or 1-800-860-4852; mamasfishhouse.com), 799 Poho Pl., Pa‘ia. Adjacent to Ho‘okipa Beach Park and on the grounds of a very popular restaurant where house guests receive a healthy discount (see Dining Out), these one-and two-bedroom cottages are the stuff of dreams. That’s due in equal parts to the setting (within sandal shuffle of a coconut-tree-studded beach), the island-breezy furnishings, and the modern kitchens. The economy garden cottages, by the way, don’t include maid service and are surrounded by a junglelike setting. The beachfront units boast a nice covered patio. Rates: $$–$$$$; three-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: nine cottages, beach, restaurant, full kitchens, cleaning fee, A/C, wireless.
Hale Ho‘okipa Inn (808-572-6698; maui-bed-and-breakfast.com), 32 Pakani Pl., Makawao. One of the best values on Maui, this historic home was built in 1924 and converted to an inn in 1997 by longtime Mauian Cherie Attix. She’s a passionate supporter of sustainable tourism and showing off Maui’s best, the way Maui used to be. The inn’s living room, lined with books and lovely woodwork, calls to you from the moment you set foot in the front door. Among the guest rooms, I like Rose with its bay window, claw foot tub, and extra day bed. Jasmine Room features an antique Hawaiian four-poster bed, while Hibiscus Room boasts an antique brass bed. Guests staying in the Kona suite have access to the kitchen. The breakfast spread, paired with good conversation at one round table, is generous: organic fixings, fruits from garden, local breads, jams and jellies. It’s everything a B&B should be. Rates: $$. Facilities and amenities: three rooms and one suite, cable TV, continental breakfast, free wireless.
The Kula Lodge (808-878-1535 or 1-800-233-1535; kulalodge.com), 15200 Haleakala Hwy., Kula. These chalet-style accommodations in spacious A-frame chalets sit at 3,200 feet and project an atmosphere closer to Switzerland than Ka‘anapali. Magnificent panoramas are the biggest selling point, but the other reason folks stay here is its proximity to Mount Haleakala. The closer you are, the longer you can sleep before waking at some ungodly hour to trek up the mountain for sunrise. But if you’re trying to sleep in, be forewarned that hundreds of vans, buses, and cars will drive right by your door on their way up in the morning, too. Chalet 1 is the best of the lot, with the most expansive views, a gas fireplace, a brass bed, and a sleeping loft. Rates: $$. Facilities and amenities: five chalets, restaurant, no A/C, no TV, no phones.
Kula View B&B (808-878-6736; kulaview.com), 600 Holopuni Rd., west of Kula. Staying here, on the second floor of a private house, is like being up in a tree house with your own private entrance and lanai. Guests come for the expansive views of Haleakala, but it doesn’t hurt that the host has plenty of warm clothes for your sunrise trek up the volcano. The pleasant studio, which has rudimentary kitchen implements, is great for a few nights. Rates: $, including continental breakfast; two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: one studio, phone, no TV (but will get you one by request), no credit cards.
CAMPING & CABINS
Polipoli State Park (808-984-8109; office open 8–4 weekdays). There’s only one lone cabin (rented a year in advance) situated up at 6,300 feet on the slopes of Haleakala, but you can tent camp. The state allows up to 20 people at any given time ($5 per permit per night, but up to 20 people can go on one permit). Five-night maximum; free but permit required. Take Hwy. 37 to Kula, turn left onto Hwy. 377, right onto Waipoli Rd., and head up and up for just over 10 miles to the end. Contact the State Parks Division–Camping, 54 S. High St., Wailuku 96768.
HALE HO‘OKIPA INN
Haleakala National Park (808-572-4400; visitors center open 8–4; nps.gov/hale). Be prepared for extreme conditions; there’s a reason astronauts train here. Three cabins are well spaced for hiking, but there is no water or other facilities. And you have to be really lucky to get one. In fact, they’re so popular that the NPS has created a lottery, which you can try for three months in advance ($40 nightly for one to six people; two nights maximum at any one cabin; three nights maximum in total). As for tenting, there are two wilderness areas inside the volcano and a more accessible one near Hosmer Grove. They’re free, but a permit is required, and they’re issued from the Haleakala Visitors Center on a first-come, first-served basis. Hosmer Grove, at 6,800 feet, is cold, but at least the sites are protected from the relentless winds. Three-night maximum. Contact Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao 96768.
Where to Eat
Upcountry doesn’t boast the wealth of choices available in West and South Maui, but there’s plenty of variety in terms of price, cuisine, and atmosphere. Fortunately, one of Maui’s best foodie restaurants is here (at Hali‘imaile). Reservations are recommended for all Dining Out establishments.
DINING OUT
Hali‘imaile General Store (808-572-2666; haliimailegeneralstore.com), 900 Hali‘imaile Rd., Hali‘imaile. Open for lunch weekdays, dinner nightly. This 1920s company store, complete with wooden floors and high ceilings, is sitting pretty and squarely amid pineapple and sugarcane fields. They’re humble digs for high cuisine from one of the originators of the Hawai‘i regional cuisine movement—the legendary Bev Gannon, who’s been packin’ ’em in since the late 1980s. My last dinner started with sashimi napoleon and moved on to rack of lamb Hunan style. Dynamite salmon is always a favorite, too. And please, please save room for desserts made by Celebrations Catering. To beat the high cost of dining here, consider simply having drinks and pupus at the bar. On my last visit, the bartender mixed a mind-blowing mai tai. And by the way, Bev’s outstanding, eponymous cookbook makes a great gift. Children’s menu. Lunch $$–$$$, dinner entrées $$$–$$$$.
Colleen’s (808-575-9211), Ha‘iku Cannery Marketplace, 810 Ha‘iku Rd., Ha‘iku. Open 6 AM–9 PM daily. Stylin’ with high ceilings, a pseudo-industrial look, and an open kitchen, Colleen’s is pleasantly unpretentious and beloved with locals. But that’s not all. This is one of the best restaurants on the island, and, to boot, the prices are really reasonable for the quality. If I lived around the corner, this would be my neighborhood eatery! Come for thicker-crust pizzas, seared ahi, and fish-and-chips. Come often. Early morning French toast and omelets are killers, as are burgers and creative salads at lunchtime. Breakfast and lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$.
HALI’IMAILE GENERAL STORE
Mama’s Fish House (808-579-8488; mamasfishhouse.com), Hana Hwy., Kuau Cove, 799 Poho Pl., Pa‘ia. Open for lunch, pupus, and dinner daily. If you’re hankering for the perfect fantasy island setting, complete with an intimate and curvaceous beachfront, striking palm trees, and lots of bamboo, lauhala, and lush plantings, then come to Mama’s. Furthermore, consider dining at lunch on a fish sandwich to save some money and enjoy the view. There are always four or five catches of the day that you can pair with at least seven or eight different preparations. As if to emphasize the freshness, the menu highlights where and by whom the fish was caught. Careful; the good mai tais here pack a punch. Children’s menu. Lunch $$$$, dinner entrées $$$$.
EATING OUT
Makawao
Casanova Italian Restaurant (808-572-0220; casanovamaui.com), 1188 Makawao Ave. Open for all three meals daily, except no lunch on Sun. In an old wooden building with a raised roadside porch (whose bar stools are frequented by locals and visitors reading the paper and talking story), Casanova offers plenty of options. From the informal deli side at breakfast, I never miss an opportunity to order a Brie and sun-dried tomato omelet with buttermilk biscuits. At lunchtime, gourmet sandwiches supplant egg dishes and pastries. And for dinner, I head to the cozy, bona fide restaurant section and generally order a pizza from a wood-fired oven. You’ll also be happy with large portions of great pasta dishes and Maui’s best tiramisu. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $, lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.
Keokea
Grandma’s Coffee House (808-878-2140; grandmascoffee.com), Lower Kula Rd. Open 7–5 daily. This little roadside place makes an atmospheric stop for a cup of java and a slice of pineapple or banana cake (or other pastry). I wait to eat “real” food elsewhere. Family owned for generations, Grandma’s also roasts their family-grown beans in the shop. Most dishes less than $.
Café 808 (808-878-6874), Lower Kula Rd. Open 6 AM–8 PM daily. Diagonally across from the Holy Ghost Church, and on a road that runs parallel to the beaten path, this really local place is off most visitors’ radar. The Spartan interior, complete with linoleum and a smattering of plastic chairs, always compels me toward a take-away burger. Most dishes less than $; no credit cards.
GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE
Ha‘iku
Hana Hou Café (808-575-2661; hanahoucafe.com), Ha‘iku Cannery Marketplace, 810 Ha‘iku Rd. Open for dinner nightly (and from noon Thurs.–Sun.). This low-key place caters mostly to locals and windsurfers, but a few savvy tourists may also wander by. Order at the window and take away or grab an outdoor seat for “Sushi by Harry,” plate lunches, fish, wild mushroom pasta, and steaks. The Hawaiian music begins most nights at about 7 PM. Dishes $–$$.
Pauwela Café (808-575-9242; pauwelacafe.com), 375 W. Kuiaha Rd. Open 6–2 daily. An easy detour off the Hana Highway about 5 miles east of Pa‘ia, this café makes great breakfast burritos, bakes fabulous breads, and assembles a now famous kalua turkey sandwich. Casual and friendly, the café has only a few tables inside and out, but how many do you need? Don’t let the corrugated-tin and cinder-block exterior put you off. It’s located in a building that manufactures surfboards, and it’s what passes for light industry around here. Most dishes less than $.
Pa‘ia
Jacques North Shore (808-579-8844), 120 Hana Hwy., Pa‘ia. Open for dinner nightly, sushi bar open Tues.–Sat. This eclectic place dishes up well-priced seafood to windsurfers and well-heeled, hip locals who appreciate great food. On my last visit, my companion and I practically drooled over the pumpkin fish and vegetable curry; French-Caribbean dishes are also popular. The other draws are outside dining under a giant awning and seats at the sushi bar. Ask about DJs and dancing on Friday nights. Sushi $, entrées $$–$$$.
Moana Bakery & Café (808-579-9999), 71 Baldwin Ave. Open for all three meals daily (except closes at 3 PM on Mon.). In all ways that are important, this is really the only decent place to eat in town. Breakfast omelets and pancakes dominate the early menu; soups, sandwiches, and salads take center stage midday. But at night, chef Don Ritchey, formerly of the Hali‘imaile General Store, whips up more sophisticated Asian and Euro dishes, including excellent Thai curries. Usually there’s live Hawaiian music in the evenings; call for a schedule. Children’s menu. Breakfast and lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.
MOANA BAKERY & CAFÉ
Café des Amis (808-579-6323), 42 Baldwin Ave. Open for all three meals daily. Appealing to 20-and 30-somethings, this crêperie offers a wide variety of the namesake options and also specializes in Indian-style curry wraps. Breakfast and lunch $, dinner entrées up to $$.
Milagros Food Co. (808-579-8755), 3 Baldwin Ave. Open 8 AM–9:30 PM daily. Most people come here so they can sit at shady tables on a busy street corner to people-watch. In fact, happy-hour margaritas could almost be listed under To See & Do. If you get hungry, blackened ahi tostados and fish tacos should do the trick as long as you don’t expect it to rival the real deal. It’s rather like the Pacific Rim meets the American Southwest. Children’s menu. Dishes $–$$$.
Pa‘ia Fish Market (808-579-8030), Baldwin Ave. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Windsurfer dudes outnumber visitors at this busy, small, and informal corner eatery. You can expect shellacked communal picnic tables, cold beers, good home fries, and mahi burgers. Don’t bother with anything but the fish. Entrées $–$$.
BAKERIES, COFFEE & MARKETS
Makawao
Komoda’s Store & Bakery (808-572-7261), 3674 Baldwin Ave. Open 7–5 Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Fri., 7–2 Sat. Long famous for cream puffs (but I really like the shortbread cookies), Komoda’s also has hot dogs. Well, it’s the buns, really. What? More than one local friend skips the dog and simply noshes on the bun. Arrive by 10 AM or risk the deflation that inevitably accompanies seeing empty shelves. Dishes $–$$; no credit cards.
Down to Earth Natural Foods (808-572-1488; downtoearth.org), 1169 Makawao Ave. Open 8–8 daily. This health-food grocery store features a bountiful salad bar, as well as hot and cold prepared deli items. Head across the street to sit under the shady trees at the library.
Rodeo General Store (808-572-1868), 3661 Baldwin Ave., open 7 AM–10 PM daily. This old-fashioned general store underwent a marked makeover in 2008, but it still retains a rustic flavor and is true to its roots. The great wine selection and wine room is better than ever. By the way, it’s pronounced ROdeo, as in bull riding, not roDEo, as in the drive in Beverly Hills.
Pukalani
Pukalani Superette (808-572-7616), off Haleakala Hwy. Open 6:30 AM–9 PM weekdays, 7 AM–8 PM weekends. To feel oh-so-local, stop here at lunchtime with everyone else for hot deli items like chili chicken. My dear Upcountry friend Bonnie swears it contains a secret addictive ingredient.
JUST SO YOU KNOW
Makawao Steak House (808-572-8711; Makawao) offers one of the only salad bars around; Kula Lodge (808-878-1535; Kula) is well known in travel guides for stunning sunset views of Upcountry and West Maui, but there are a dozen places I’d eat before here (except, maybe, in winter when the stone fireplace is warming).
Entertainment
Casanova (808-572-0220), 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao. The happenin’ bar is open nightly, but locals really drive the distance (with good reason) to listen to live music and dance (9:45 PM–1:30 AM Wed.–Sat.). The lineup is a mixture of blues, reggae, rock, and country. When bands like Los Lobos travel through the islands, they’ll often jam here, with or without local rock-and-roll exiles (like Willie Nelson and Kris Kristofferson). Wednesday night is ladies night, a DJ spins groovy tunes on Friday, and live bands play on Saturday. Although it doesn’t get much better than this on Maui, it doesn’t need to because this is pretty darn good. Cover.
See also Jacques North Shore and Moana Bakery & Café under Eating Out.
Selective Shopping
ART, ARTS & CRAFTS, ARTISANS
Maui Crafts Guild (808-579-9697; mauicraftsguild.com), 43 Hana Hwy., Pa‘ia. Open daily. On the edge of town, in an old two-story wooden building, the crafts guild is a favorite Maui stop. Guild members work in a range of media, from raku to rare woods, from beads to banana bark, from sculpture to stained glass. Head upstairs for the furniture.
Hot Island Glass (808-572-4527; hotislandglass.com), the Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open daily. If you can’t stand the heat of this demonstration studio, you can cool off in their colorful gallery. The family-owned studio, which produces high-end pieces, is set back in the Courtyard. Call to make sure they’re doing demonstrations the day you want to visit.
Viewpoints (808-572-5979; viewpointsgallerymaui.com), the Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open daily. So many Maui artists, so little time. Luckily, Makawao is a small town, and the galleries and cooperatives are close together. Viewpoints mostly represents painters and sculptors.
Maui Hands (808-572-5194; mauihands.com), the Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open daily. Another fine gallery, with an additional location at the Ka‘ahumanu Center in Kahului.
See also Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center under To See & Do.
MAUI CRAFTS GUILD
HAWAIIANA
FARMER’S MARKETS
All around Upcountry, farmers cultivating the volcanic soil produce greener greens than you’ll find almost anywhere in the United States. Check market listings under Eating Out.
FLOWERS
Sunrise Protea Farm (808-876-0200; sunriseprotea.com), Hwy. 337 (a few miles past the Haleakala turnoff), Kula. Open 7–4 daily. Showy and dazzling, these flowers are easily shipped to the mainland. And while you’re here, at 4,000 feet, you might as well take a self-guided walk through the colorful garden before buying.
Proteas of Hawai‘i (808-878-2533; proteasofhawaii.com), 417 Mauna Pl., Kula. Open 8–4:30 weekdays. The only appreciable difference between these folks and Sunrise is that Proteas of Hawai‘i offer guided walking tours of the gardens. Call in advance to arrange a tour.
SHOPPING AREAS
Makawao, Maui’s coolest shopping town, caters to travelers with independent tastes. One-of-a-kind boutiques and a few down-home shops line Makawao’s quiet crossroads.
Pa‘ia, also at a crossroads, boasts a dense thicket of laid-back, wooden-storefront shops that cater mostly to a surfer-dude kind of crowd.
SPECIAL SHOPS
Collections (808-572-0781), 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open daily. This long-standing gift and clothing shop epitomizes everything breezy about island living.
Attitude (808-573-4733), 3660 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. Open daily. For women’s clothes with a bit of attitude, brought to you by a delightful French proprietor with a great eye, few Maui shops match the low-key fashions collected under this roof.
Maui Girl (808-579-9266; mauigirl.com), 12 Baldwin Ave., Pa‘ia. Open daily. Different size on top than the bottom? No worries here. These bathing suits and beachwear come in all manner of mix-and-match sizes.
BALDWIN AVE., MAKAWAO.