LANA‘I
I like to think of visits to Lana‘i as taking a vacation from my vacation. By conventional definitions, there’s very little to do here. And therein lies its appeal.
Until recently, Lana‘i was a destination only for trailblazers and hunters. The small island, known in the 1900s primarily for its pineapples and exotic game, had been shunned by visitors and settlers alike since Polynesians settled Hawai‘i.
Old Hawaiian legends identify Lana‘i as cursed, a place of evil spirits. The original trailblazer was Kaulula‘au, exiled here by his father, a Maui king, for mischievous behavior. He tricked the demons into drowning themselves and made the island potentially inhabitable, but few people took the opportunity. Even would-be conquerors were repelled. When a chief from the Big Island invaded in 1778 to expand his domain, the army quickly exhausted the scarce food supply and began eating wild roots. After the diet agitated their systems, they renamed the island Lana‘i Kamokuhi (“land of the loose bowels”). It’s not been a history tailored to tourism.
In 1917, the Baldwin family from Maui purchased the island to grow sugarcane. But it wasn’t successful; there wasn’t enough water on Lana‘i. And a mere five years later, James Dole, founder of Hawai‘i’s pineapple industry, bought most of the island for $1.1 million and established the plantation that totally dominated the economy. The first pineapples were shipped in 1926. Until recently Lana‘i, exclusively devoted to pineapples, was the world’s largest producer of pineapples. Dole also constructed the little Hotel Lana‘i and Lana‘i City, the island’s only town (where all services are located), to house Filipino plantation workers.
Castle & Cooke, a primary shareholder in the Dole Corporation, kept the focus on pineapples until the mid-1980s, when rising worker wages precluded profitability. That’s when David Murdock, the chairman of Castle & Cooke, decided that tourism would be the island’s savior and purchased the 140-square-mile island for $675 million. The last pineapples, save for a 100-acre patch that supplies the island’s needs, were picked and shipped in 1992. Retrained in the service sector, most of the island’s 3,200 residents now work for the Lana‘i Company, the nonagricultural subsidiary of Castle & Cooke.
The island’s first cautious step into tourism back in 1990 and 1991 was modest in many respects, but not in aspiration. Almost overnight, Lana‘i was transformed. The two resort hotels permitted for now—or for the foreseeable future—are absolutely stunning in elegance. The Lodge at Ko‘ele and the Manele Bay Hotel, both Four Seasons properties, are trailblazers for the Hawaiian tourist industry of the 21st century: They embody modern world-class luxury combined with traditional Hawaiian charm. One is a grand manse on the edge of the forest; the other is a Mediterranean-style waterfront resort. About the time that Lana‘i traded pineapples for tourists, it also adopted the moniker Hawai‘i’s Private Island. It’s not surprising, then, that gazillionaire Bill Gates chose to get married on Lana‘i in 1993. Gates booked all the rooms at the Lodge at Ko‘ele and Manele Bay Hotel (and the little Hotel Lana‘i), rented all the island’s rental cars, and chartered all the nearby boats and planes that otherwise could have brought prying cameras to the island during the special event. After staying at the Lodge or Manele Bay, you will understand why someone who could get married anywhere in the world chose these two hotels.
You can still hunt on Lana‘i, you can still stay at the simple Hotel Lana‘i, and you can still rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and explore a whopping 30 miles of paved terrain that includes rolling green pastures, parched patches that resemble Greek islands, mist-shrouded mountain forests, and a rocky desert landscape straight out of The Flintstones. You can now play golf on world-class courses, ride horseback, snorkel in a marine preserve, hike remote trails (all 100 miles of them), watch the sun set brilliantly on red rocks, or shoot clay pigeons. Or you can simply while away your days and nights in the unparalleled luxury of Manele Bay or The Lodge. Some guests only venture away from their lodging of choice to dine at the other one, while others are just too dazzled to get very far beyond The Lodge’s hilltop golf course and the beach at Manele Bay. The choice is yours; don’t feel guilty.
However, most visitors come on a day trip, while others come for a few nights to celebrate a special occasion at one of the two resorts. Well-to-do kama‘aina come for a retreat, while others come because they revel in staying at the world’s most posh places.
Though the changes on the island are, in some ways, momentous, it still retains its pristine charm. Residents are friendly, of generous spirit, and hospitable, waving from their cars to strolling visitors. Committed to maintaining its Hawaiian character, Lana‘i remains quiet and rural, its unconventional beauty the perfect recipe for solitude seekers. There are no stoplights and barely any cars, much less a supermarket or a shopping center. Slip into the native way of life to find a new rhythm. The virgin isle may have a fancy new dress, but she’s staying as pure and simple as poi.
CLASSIC LANA‘I LANDSCAPE
GUIDANCE
Destination Lana‘i (aka Lana‘i Visitor Center) (808-565-7600 or 1-800-947-4774; visitlanai.net), 431 Seventh St., Suite A, Lana‘i City. Open 9–4 weekdays. This very knowledgeable information bureau is a great go-to resource. They also have useful calendar listings: Check out the Pineapple Festival in early July; the Aloha Festival (alohafestivals.com), a state-wide event in late September or early October; and the Christmas Festival on the first Saturday of December.
Maui Visitor’s Bureau (808-244-3530; visitmaui.com), 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui. Open 8–4:30 weekdays. The MVB also represents Lana‘i and Moloka‘i, providing maps, vacation planners, and brochures.
MORE WEB SITES
islandoflanai.com (Castle & Cook Resorts)
gohawaii.com/lanai (Hawai‘i Visitor’s & Convention Bureau)
state.hi.us/dlnr (Hawai‘i’s Department of Lands and Natural Resources)
NEWSPAPERS
Pick up a copy of the very local, weekly Lana‘i Times for a neighborly view of what’s important.
WEATHER
Call the National Weather Service (808-565-6033) to learn about wind and wave conditions.
MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Lana‘i Community Hospital (808-565-6411), 628 Seventh St., Lana‘i City. Open 24/7.
GETTING THERE
By air from the mainland: There are no direct mainland flights into Lana‘i; you must fly through Honolulu. The Lana‘i airport is 4 miles from town; from there, it takes a mere 10 minutes to get into Lana‘i City, 25 minutes to Manele Bay. If you’re not staying at one of the resorts, call a taxi. When the opportunity arises, I like flying in on Tuesday, the one day when bread is flown in. (You can tell that folks are new to Lana‘i if they run out of bread; longtime residents always have some frozen.)
Interisland by air: It’s a short hop from Honolulu. Island Air (808-565-6744 or 1-800-652-6541; islandair.com) operates eight daily propeller flights (30 minutes) between Honolulu and Lana‘i. Tickets cost $53–90. If you’re flying from a neighbor island, you have to fly through Honolulu. Go! Express Airlines (1-888-435-9462; iflygo.com) also flies to Lana‘i from Honolulu and Maui twice daily for $49–79 one way.
Interisland by boat: Expeditions (808-661-3756 or 1-800-695-2624; go-lanai.com) operates a passenger ferry between Manele Harbor and Lahaina (Maui), and Manele Harbor and Ma‘alaea (Maui). Consider taking Dramamine when the seas are rough; it’s a small boat, and you’ll feel every wave. Five or six boats ply the waters daily; the trip takes 45–60 minutes. Round-trip tickets are $50 adults, $40 ages 2–11. As a wintertime bonus, you might see whales from the boat. If you’re not staying at one of the resorts, call a taxi to take you into town.
GETTING AROUND
Lana‘i, devoid of a single traffic light, is only 13 miles wide and 18 miles long, but it can be terribly easy to get lost on all of the unmarked dirt roads. Ask locals for directions when it seems necessary, and get a decent island map from the resorts.
NOTHING IS VERY FAR AWAY.
Guests of the Hotel Lana‘i, Manele Bay Hotel, and the Lodge at Ko‘ele have access to the hourly shuttles that run among the properties (and by extension, the famed Hulopo‘e Beach and Lana‘i City). There are no island buses.
Lana‘i City, more a village than anything remotely approaching a city, is picturesque, if not exactly pretty. The town’s centerpiece is Dole Square, ringed with towering Cook and Norfolk Island pine trees, and surrounded by a residential neighborhood of former pineapple workers from the Philippines. The Hotel Lana‘i is on the main street, which is great for a stroll. The Lodge at Ko‘ele, where it can be foggy and cool, is on the outskirts of town within easy walking distance; Manele Bay Hotel and Hulopo‘e Beach, which are perennially sunny, are a shuttle ride away on the coast.
Hwy. 440 is also known as the Kaumalapau Highway or Manele Road.
As a gauge of distance, it’s 40 miles round-trip down to Shipwreck Beach and back.
By four-wheel drive or car: Since there are only 30 miles of paved road, and all the fun happens along a honeycomb of dirt roads, splurging on a four-wheel drive isn’t really a splurge—it’s a necessity. While there is no need to rent a car upon arrival, it would be a shame to come to Lana‘i and not rent something for at least one day of exploring. There are a limited number of Jeeps, so reserve a vehicle a few weeks in advance, particularly during the holiday periods. Before setting out, fill up on gas, snacks, and water.
Dollar Rent-a-Car (aka Lana‘i City Service) (808-565-7227 or 1-800-533-7808), at the Lana‘i Plantation Store, rents cars ($60 for a compact) and four-wheel Jeeps ($139). Since there are only about 35 vehicles in the fleet, reserve early.
Adventure Lana‘i Ecocenter (808-565-7373; adventurelanai.com), which rents Jeep Wranglers for $139–159 daily, will arrange pickup and drop-off at resorts, the ferry, or the airport. Rentals include roof racks (to carry surfboards, kayaks, and the like), an ice chest, towels, snorkeling gear, and an island map. Adventure Lana‘i also rents quad ATVs, mountain bikes, and kayaks.
By shuttle: A complimentary resort shuttle takes guests of the Manele Bay Hotel, the Lodge at Ko‘ele, and Hotel Lana‘i between town and Manele Bay throughout the day.
By taxi: Rabaca’s Limousine Service (808-565-6670). If you’re heading to The Lodge at Ko‘ele and you are a party of four or more, this service is cheaper ($95 for one to six people) than the one provided by the resort ($35 per person). But if you are a party of four or less heading to the Manele Bay Hotel, you’re better off going on the resort shuttle at $25 per person.
TOP FIVE “MUSTS” FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS
Snorkel at Hulopo‘e Beach
Visit Garden of the Gods
Enjoy afternoon tea in front of the fire at The Lodge at Ko‘ele
Hike or drive the Munro Trail
Venture out to Shipwreck Beach
Bonus Idea: Go home rested
ISLANDWIDE TOURS
By land: Rabaca’s Limousine Service (808-565-6670). The Rabaca clan will take you wherever you want to go by car, including off road to the Garden of the Gods, Shipwreck Beach, or wherever. Private tours are $95 per hour with a three-hour minimum. If you’re pressed for time, three hours will give you a good overview of the island.
TOP FIVE IDEAS FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Stay at Hotel Lana‘i
Try your aim at sporting clays
Hunt for petroglyphs
Watch mist collect on Cook Island pine trees
Camp at Hulopo‘e Beach
To See & Do
Exploring out from Lana‘i City.
Central
Lana‘i City. It’s a hefty moniker for such a small village. Built in the mid-1920s to house laborers from the pineapple plantation, this tiny town is basically just a grid of streets surrounding Dole Park. Almost every single visitor’s service is on, or within a block of, the green park. By the time you read this, Lana‘i City may have a new jail on Dole Park, but you can expect them to preserve the fascinating old one and perhaps turn it into the visitor’s services outpost. Stroll around the side roads of Lana‘i City to soak in the colorful, single-story plantation houses marked by tin roofs and tidy front yards.
Note the island’s towering, signature Cook Island pine trees lining the main drag, Lana‘i Avenue. Then note the giant Norfolk Island specimen in front of The Lodge at Ko‘ele. Even longtime locals can’t tell me the differences between the two varieties; try to see the distinguishing characteristics for yourself.
Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, Lana‘i City is subject to cool evenings and mornings, occasionally overcast and damp conditions, and creeping fog banks. It comes as a welcome change to kama‘aina from neighboring islands and to sophisticated travelers who appreciate variety on an otherwise conventionally tropical holiday.
Check out the Ka Lokahi O Ka Malamalama church, built in 1938 to serve Lana‘i’s growing population. It sits right next to The Lodge at Ko‘ele.
Munro Trail. More commonly used as a four-wheel-drive route as opposed to a hiking trail, this rutted dirt path (not well marked at all) runs along a ridge as it winds its way to the top of Lana‘ihale (“house of Lana‘i”; 3,370 feet). Depending on who’s measuring and from where, the trail is between 8.8 and 11 miles in length. If the mountain sports clear weather in the morning, head out spontaneously—if rentals are available at the last minute. You’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of Hauloa Gulch (2,000 feet) and panoramas encompassing all the major neighbor islands except Kaua‘i. It’s the only spot in Hawai‘i that takes in so much. By the afternoon, clouds often roll in and there’s little point in going. In an effort to reforest the area and slow the soil erosion, the route was planted with Cook Island pine trees in the late 1910s by New Zealander George Munroe. He was also aware that Cook Island pine needles siphon off upward of 40 gallons of water per hour from the fog that settles in, providing a more hospitable habitat for other growth. By all means, stay away when it’s been raining, for the route turns slippery and slick. It basically becomes a big muddy mess. Even in a four-wheel drive, you’ll be sliding sideways on a high and narrow “road” without shoulders. (Trust me; I know from whence I speak.) For hiking details, see Hiking.
To reach the trail, take Hwy. 440 south from Lana‘i City for about 5 miles, turn left (mauka) up an unmarked red-dirt road, and keep heading upward.
Luahiwa Petroglyphs. This baker’s dozen of boulders, strewn about a 3-acre site, is marked by stick-figure etchings of humans and animals. Dating back to two different periods (the 1500s and the late 1700s), these petroglyphs are among the very best in Hawai‘i. No exaggeration. Perhaps fittingly, they’re hard to find. Take Hwy. 440 south for 2 miles from Lana‘i City and turn left onto an unmarked dirt road near a stand of pine trees. After about a mile, turn left near the water tank, then veer right and head to the end of the unmarked trail. That sounds about right.
Northeast
Shipwreck Beach (aka Kaiolohia Bay), 10 miles from Lana‘i City. Half the fun of Shipwreck is getting there: The expansive views of Moloka‘i, Maui, and the Pacific are dramatic. Great for beachcombing and walking, this 8-mile beach is so named because of the Liberty Ship grounded offshore. No one knows exactly how it got there, but this stretch of waterway has historically been treacherous to navigate. To reach it, head to the end of Keomoku Highway and turn left along a rutted and sandy route, where you’ll eventually pass a ramshackle “Federation Camp,” built by Filipino plantation workers in the 1950s. A few still inhabit the structures.
Keomoku. This ghost town, far off the beaten path, is really just a collection of abandoned homes, overgrown gravestones, and overrun rock walls. Built in the late 19th century to serve as the headquarters for a local sugar company, and subsequently used for ranching when the sugar industry died, this once booming community finally went bust in 1954. It also claims Lana‘i’s oldest church, dating to 1903 and partly restored. To reach it, continue 5 miles beyond Shipwreck Beach on an unpaved road to the right.
Northwest
Kanepu‘u Preserve. Owned by The Nature Conservancy, this 590-acre tract is the last remaining stand of dryland forest in Hawai‘i. It contains upward of 50 native and endangered plant species, including gardenia and sandalwood trees. One of the few Lana‘i places with a well-marked trailhead, Kanepu‘u has a short (15-minute) but illuminating self-guided loop trail. To reach Kanepu‘u, take Polihua Road 6 miles beyond the stables in Lana‘i City. When you meet the cattle guard, you’ve entered the preserve. See also Hiking.
Garden of the Gods (aka Keahikawelo). Not a garden of omniscient beings, unless you believe stones have divine energy, this so-called garden is what passes for Lana‘i’s most visited attraction. It’s really quite dramatic, especially in early morning or late afternoon when the play of light grows more intense and long shadows are cast from the gods. Barren as the South Dakota Badlands and as windswept as the moon, these rocks are an eerie sight. Erosion has taken its toll on them. As for the color palette, Benjamin Moore paint chips have nothing on them. Hues cover the spectrum from red to orange to yellow, from brown to gray to ocher and back again. The rock cairns, by the way, were built by visitors and have no more meaning than they do elsewhere. To reach the Garden of the Gods, just keep going beyond Kanepu‘u Preserve.
Polihua (Beach). Lovely to look at but not delightful for swimming, Polihua is usually deserted. That makes the long, wide, white-sand beach even more alluring than it would be otherwise. Except for the wind. In winter, it’s a great place for humpback whale sightings. To reach it, continue a few miles beyond Garden of the Gods, to the very end of the slow dirt road.
Southwest
Palawai Basin. Although it measures a whopping 15,000 acres, you’d probably never really notice that the flat area south and east of Lana‘i City was a collapsed volcanic caldera. But it is. The volcano forms the basis of the island. Notice the 100-acre pineapple field here, near the airport, which supplies all the island’s mighty pineapple requirements.
Kaunolu. The island’s most important historical archaeological site is a former fishing village—but not just any fishing village. Marked by stone foundations and he‘iau ruins, Kaunolu dates to the late 1700s when it served as Kamehameha the Great’s summer getaway. Kahekili’s Leap, a 60-foot precipice with only 12 feet of water below it, was named in honor of the revered Maui chief. Warriors would try to impress King Kamehameha the Great by making this leap of faith. Look for Kaunolu only if you need excuse for exploration; the road is bumpy, and it’s hot and dry here. To reach it, take Hwy. 440 south and after the airport turn left, continue 2 miles, then turn right and head 3 miles to the end of the road.
Kaumalapa‘u Harbor. Built in the 1920s by the Dole Corporation to ship pineapples worldwide, this harbor is not scenic in the least. These days the only action it gets is on Thursday, when the supply barge comes in from Honolulu. If you’re on the island long enough, you may notice that milk usually runs out by Wednesday. That’s just one reason why the arrival of the supply ship is an event—not like the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City or anything, but a Lana‘i-style event nonetheless. When the barge calls into port, cranes swing into action and pluck freight off the barge as locals begin guessing who’s purchased a new car, for instance. To reach the harbor, continue 4 miles beyond the airport until you reach the end of the road.
TOURING THE GARDEN OF THE GODS
Manele Bay. The ferry from Maui calls here, and the island’s best beach is next door. Other than that, all you’ll see are 1,000-foot lava cliffs and the offshore Pu‘upehe (aka Sweetheart Rock). It’s said that a husband kept his beautiful wife sequestered in a sea cave here because he was afraid other men would take a liking to her. But one day the sea surged into the cave and swept her away. The dismayed husband recovered his wife’s drowned body and buried her on this rock before jumping off it to his own death. Take Manele Road (Hwy. 440) south to the bottom of the hill, the end of the road.
SPECIAL PROGRAMS
Kids for All Seasons (808-565-2398; lanai-resorts.com), Manele Bay Hotel. This program, for children ages 5–12, is all about the spirit of adventure and an appreciation of island culture. Small-group activities include themed arts and crafts, exploration of Hulopo‘e Bay tide pools, lizard hunting, and having a ball all day long (i.e. playing various games with balls). Morning and afternoon sessions (including lunch); complimentary.
Spas
Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i at Manele Bay (808-565-2088; fourseasons.com/manelebay/spa). Open 8:30–7 daily. This spa is lovely to behold, complete with lots of wood, granite, and marble. You’ll get all the sensory pampering and upscale services you’ve come to expect from this resort. Usual suspects include an aromatherapy massage, a signature banana coconut scrub, cooling ti-leaf wrap, seaweed body masks, rain forest showers, steam rooms, and saunas. The ocean views, coupled with a healthy menu of classes, may just make this your favorite spot in the resort.
Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i, The Lodge at Ko‘ele (808-565-7300; fourseasons.com/koele/spa). At press time, The Lodge was getting a new Wellness Center and Spa; inquire about details. Although the treatment menu is limited (lomi lomi massages, hot stone massages, and “the big stretch”), they’re so fine that they suffice except for the most hard-core spagoers. Along those same lines, the fitness center is small but sufficient, but I particularly like the heated swimming pool on a chilly afternoon.
Outdoor Activities
BICYCLING/RENTALS
Mountain bikes are available to guests of both resorts to ply the rugged, red-dirt roads that lead over to heiaus and through the woods to secluded beaches.
Adventure Lana‘i Ecocenter (808-565-7373; adventurelanai.com); pickup and drop-off from your lodging; $59 per day rental includes backpacks and a picnic lunch. These folks offer a few different half-day tours; call for prices. You can trek through upcountry Lana‘i on a novice downhill bike trip, travel along the beach road to Kaiolohia Bay, explore a shipwreck just past Po‘iwa Gulch, and hike to petroglyphs. Call 24 hours in advance.
GOLF
The Experience at Ko‘ele (808-565-4653; golfonlanai.com/koele), adjacent to The Lodge at Ko‘ele. Truly an “experience,” this Greg Norman–and Ted Robinson–designed course is rife with wild turkeys and lush with pine trees and water, water everywhere. Waterfalls and streams will have you bubbling with fury or satisfaction in no time, depending on your play. Greens fees cost $210 for resort guests (for unlimited same-day play), $225 for non–resort guests ($50 to play Manele later in the day), $50 to replay nine holes (an option for resort guests only). Collared shirts and spikeless shoes are required. Reservations can be made by phone 30 days prior to tee time.
The Challenge at Manele (808-565-2222; golfonlanai.com/manele), adjacent to the Manele Bay Hotel. Truly a “challenge,” this Jack Nicklaus–designed links course offers serious Pacific views and an 18-hole putting course. Along the way, you’ll have to contend with endemic archaeological sites, lava fields, and kiawe trees. The signature 17th hole, where software gazillionaire Bill Gates was married, is a popular place for lesser mortals to tie the knot as well. Fees same as The Experience, above.
Cavendish Municipal Golf Course (no phone), adjacent to The Lodge at Ko‘ele. This par-36, nine-hole course is a throwback to the 1920s, when it was built by the Dole Corporation for its plantation workers. There is no club rental or tee time sign-up—nor any clubhouse, for that matter. Free, but a small donation is appreciated.
HIKING
Munro Trail. Pick up the trailhead at the Lana‘i Cemetery (the only place where the poorly marked trail is actually marked), off Hwy. 440. Budget a difficult eight hours for this uneven terrain, which has an elevation gain of about 1,400 feet. If you’re pressed for stamina or time, you can cut the hike to 8 versus 11 miles if you hike the first 4, enjoy great views of Lana‘i City, and then head back from whence you came. Formore details, see To See & Do.
Ko‘ele Nature Hike. Tours depart at 11 AM from The Lodge at Ko‘ele. The 5-mile trip takes about three hours and costs $15 per person.
Koloiki Ridge Trail, trailhead behind The Lodge at Ko‘ele (ask the concierge for details). Sometimes called the “Ko‘ele Nature Hike,” this 5-mile loop trail is nice and easy. It may not be well marked, but it runs through sturdy stands of ginger and pines and affords expansive views of Maunalei Valley, Maui, and Moloka‘i. Depart early in the morning for the most reliable weather and clearest views.
MUNRO TRAIL
The Nature Conservancy (808-537-4508; nature.org) leads monthly hikes within the rarefied Kanepu‘u Preserve. Make the effort if the timing is right; reservations required.
Fisherman’s Trail. Take an hour to follow the shoreline and cliffs around the Manele Bay Hotel and skirting the golf course. The Manele Bay hotel leads a 90-minute fitness hike on Tuesday and Friday mornings at 9 AM ($15).
HORSEBACK RIDING
Four Seasons Resort’s Stables at Ko‘ele (808-565-4424 information or 808-565-4555 reservations; fourseasons.com/koele). The stables across from The Lodge at Ko‘ele offer both western-and English-style riding for every ability level. You can take tame “paniolo nose-to-tail” guided trail rides through soaring pine forests and along sweeping alpine valleys, where you’ll see Maui and Moloka‘i from the plateau. (Trips depart in the morning and cost $95 per person.) More experienced riders will appreciate private rides ($160 per person for 90 minutes of riding). Not to be overlooked, little cowpokes can take pony rides—10 minutes for $10. Shuttle service from the airport available for a fee.
SCUBA DIVING
Cathedrals I and II, off Hulopo‘e Beach. This site is said—by experts who know more about diving than I do—to offer the best diving in Hawai‘i. It proffers the opportunity for a positively religious experience. Cathedrals, aptly named because the chambers and caverns resemble a sanctuary when the morning light floods in, also feature pinnacles rising 60 feet from the seabed. Head out in the morning when fewer boats will disturb the solitude of your sanctuary.
See Trilogy under Water Sports.
SNORKELING
Hulopo‘e Beach, fronting the Manele Bay Hotel. Of all the major Hawaiian islands, Lana‘i has the clearest waters. Add lava outcroppings, coral clusters, and tide pools, and poof: You have arguably the best snorkeling in Hawai‘i. Yes, on Lana‘i, all the conditions converge at Hulopo‘e. Tide pools are found on the eastern side of the bay; snorkeling is best on either end of the beach. Resort guests receive complimentary snorkeling equipment.
SPORTING CLAYS & ARCHERY
Lana‘i Pine Sporting Clays & Archery Range (808-559-4600; fourseasons.com/koele), off Keomuku Hwy. If you’ve never hoisted a shotgun and taken aim at a clay discus (aka clay pigeon), this may be your single best chance. This well-laid-out course has 14 camouflaged stations rigged to release clay targets that mimic various patterns of bird flight. Safety precautions, and gun recoil, are thoroughly discussed. By the way, women tend to have better hand–eye coordination than men, so you may want to create your own “battle of the sexes” here. Cost: $85 for 25 targets and an extensive tutorial; $90 for 50 pigeons and a short lesson, $150 for 100. Free shuttle from The Lodge.
TENNIS
Resort and Hotel Lana‘i guests can play (free) at the Manele Bay Hotel and The Lodge at Ko‘ele (808-565-2072). Public courts in Lana‘i City are also free and lit for night play; call 808-565-6979 to reserve.
WATER SPORTS
Trilogy (aka Lanai Ocean Sports) (808-661-4743 or 1-888-628-4800; sailtrilogy.com). Lana‘i’s coves and bays are well protected and pollution-free, which makes scuba diving, snorkeling, and sea kayaking great experiences for all levels. In business since the early 1970s, these outfitters provide a variety of guided water activities—including catamaran and inflatable boating trips and snorkeling and adventure rafting. As a bonus, you’ll get a nice dose of history to accompany your trip. Departing from Manele Harbor, you can take a snorkeling and sailing trip along the sea cliffs of Kahekili Ho‘e. Lunch, snacks, and gear are included for $202 for adults, half price for children. A sunset sail will set you back $106 for adults, half price for children. Or take a scuba dive from Hulopo‘e Beach. They’re offered to beginning divers for $102 per person; certified divers (ages 12 and above) can shave $10 off that price. More experienced divers have a two-tank option for $213. Reservations required; book online for a savings of 10 percent. Nondiving partners can also go along for the ride for $106.
Adventure Lana‘i Ecocenter (808-565-7373; adventurelanai.com). These folks rent everything you could ever possibly need for water fun: boogie boards ($10), scuba gear ($49), and kayaks with snorkeling gear ($49). And they’ll even pick you up at your hotel, drive you to Manele Harbor, and give you a quick lesson on how to use your equipment. They also offer myriad excursions, including daytime and nighttime diving adventures with certified guides, four-hour surfing safaris with instruction on positioning and techniques, and small-group kayaking and snorkeling adventures led by informative guides. On any given day, they’ll recommend locations based on weather and conditions. Most three-to four-hour tours cost $149 for adults; children are half price. (Call about possible age restrictions.)
MAMMAL SEARCH
Trilogy (808-874-5649 or 1-888-628-4800; sailtrilogy.com). Departs weekdays from Manele Harbor at 10; 90 minutes. Trilogy offers onboard naturalists who will teach you about humpback whales as you travel to their breeding habitat to observe them up close. As you make your way along the ragged coastline and protected sea caves, you’ll also see large schools of spinner dolphins. $80 adults, $40 children.
TRILOGY CATAMARANS
Beaches
Hulopo‘e Beach, adjacent to Manele Harbor and Manele Bay Hotel. For decades, until 1990 when the Manele Bay Hotel was built, the cognoscenti traveled to this isolated shore from Maui, bearing picnics along with their yearnings to flee the tourist crowds. The beach still has its allure, but it’s now the home of Lana‘i’s top-notch Manele Bay Hotel.
Backed by a grassy area for picnics and barbecues and providing plenty of shade, this beach is the stuff of dreams. I’ll go out on a sandbar (as opposed to a limb) and say that it’s one of my three favorites in Hawai‘i. It’s a Hawaiian treasure, a fine stretch on a calm cove. Rarely approaching anyone’s definition of crowded, Hulopo‘e is perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Since the hotel is a five-minute walk away, and its requisite beach shack dispensary is hidden in the trees, the beach remains delightfully void of any overbearing hotel presence. Tide pools form at the eastern end of the beach, begging for exploration; look for sea stars, sea cucumbers, little shrimp, and limpets. Colorful fish congregate at both ends of the crescent-shaped bay, begging for appreciation. Pods of spinner dolphins frolic within the bay, while whales breach offshore (Dec.–Apr.). What more could a reasonable person hope for? Okay, how about this: Fortunately, Hulopo‘e is the only beach on Lana‘i that can be reached by a paved road. It’s also protected as a Marine Life Conservation District.
See also Shipwreck and Polihua Beaches under To See & Do.
Lodging
There aren’t many places to stay here, but all the varieties of lodging are at least covered—from two absolutely outstanding resorts to simple but utterly luxurious camping.
A note about the two luxury properties opened in 1990 and 1991 (which also changed ownership in 2006): Perhaps not as distinctive as the extraordinary Lodge at Ko‘ele, the Manele Bay Hotel has a more playful spirit and a chic countenance. Castle & Cooke, original owners of both places, wanted to offer two entirely different experiences, and they succeeded admirably. Each lodging has its own following, especially since they are now under the umbrella of Four Seasons. The young and fashionable are often drawn to Manele Bay, while more experienced travelers generally prefer The Lodge. Wherever you stay, you will have full and easy access to the other hotel, a free 20-minute shuttle ride away. And if, for some reason, you decide the sister property is better suited to you once you arrive, you may change hotels if there is availability.
THE LODGE AT KO’ELE
RESORTS
Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i, The Lodge at Ko‘ele (808-565-7300 or 1-800-321-4666; fourseasons.com/koele), Keomoku Hwy. An extensive and pitch perfect $50 million renovation by the Four Seasons in 2006 really put the luster back in this grand dame. An Upcountry-elegant and world-class small hotel, The Lodge (as it’s affectionately called) is breathlessly beautiful, an exquisite creation unlike any other in Hawai‘i. It regularly wins a steady stream of “best this” and “best that” awards. The low-rise Lodge, a classically proportioned Victorian plantation manor, is at once evocative of both the English countryside and the rural calm of Lana‘i—especially since it sits at an elevation of 1,700 feet. Everything about The Lodge is executed in an elegantly low-key manner. The Great Hall, where I spend a great deal of time, makes even the most sumptuous hotel lobbies look drab. The beamed ceiling soars to 35 feet; stenciled eucalyptus floors are covered with colorful Thai carpets. The tallest fireplaces in Hawai‘i frame the ends of the hall, rising above an amazing collection of European and Asian furniture grouped in cozy conversation areas. Reflecting the layered cultures brought to the islands by settlers from around the world, the décor is both elating and relaxing. Beyond the Great Hall are smaller parlors, each distinctively different. Behind The Lodge, set on 21 acres, are a manicured garden, stone-lined reflecting pond, fitness center and pool, an Orchid House, and walking paths. As you’d expect, dining is excellent (see Where to Eat). As for the guest rooms, the Ko‘ele and garden rooms are similar in size and furnishings. Both offer painted headboards and carved pineapple-post beds, large LCD flat-screen TVs, Roman shades, and an ample lanai; some have stone fireplaces. Views tend to be expansive. Second-floor rooms with porches offer greater privacy than first-floor rooms with lanais. All in all, The Lodge is a resort that jolts you into a new awareness of life’s possibilities. If you’ve grown jaded by the word unique, as I have, The Lodge will teach you its meaning anew. Rates: Rooms $$$$; children free in parent’s room; inquire about many packages. Facilities and amenities: 102 rooms, heated pool, two restaurants (the Dining Room and the Terrace), world-class golf, three tennis courts, afternoon tea in the Great Hall, cocktails and appetizers in the bar, game room, wellness center and spa, horseback riding, sporting clays, bike rentals, concierge, wireless (fee), live music in bar, children’s programs (free), airport transfer fee ($35 round-trip per person).
Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i at Manele Bay (808-565-7700 or 1-800-321-4666; fourseasons.com/manelebay), Manele Rd. Another $50 million dollar renovation (see The Lodge), another extraordinary success story. This lobby takes my breath away every time I enter. It’s laid out to command a stunning perspective on the Pacific as you enter the hotel. European and Asian furnishings speak of worldly grandeur, although Hawaiian murals and tropical flowers remind you of where you are. Located a five-minute stroll from Hulopo‘e Beach, Manele Bay Hotel offers accommodations in nine low-rise Mediterranean villas connected to each other by flowing lagoons and five lush theme gardens. Views from the rooms and suites differ, but all the quarters are spacious (700 square feet is the norm) and cosmopolitan. They feature carved four-poster beds, vibrant fabrics, a substantial lanai, and 40-inch LCD TVs. The marble baths come with a double vanity, a lounging tub, and a separate shower. The garden rooms, which overlook the lovely courtyards or the pool, may offer the best value. For a close, direct Pacific view, you have to move up to an oceanfront room. Manele Bay, the sibling to The Lodge at Ko‘ele that has the great beach, is a grand addition to Hawaiian hotels. Once you settle into the sand, into your room, or into one of the plush armchairs in the lobby, you may find yourself disinclined to leave the grounds of this island paradise. Rates: Rooms $$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 236 rooms, large pool, fabulous beach, three restaurants (including Ihilani, Hulopo‘e Court, and Ocean Grill), a bar with fabulous views, world-class golf, three tennis courts, fitness center and spa, teen center, horseback riding, sporting clays, snorkeling gear (free), concierge, wireless (fee), children’s programs (free), business center, airport transfer fee ($35 round-trip per person).
MANELE BAY HOTEL’S LOBBY
BED & BREAKFASTS AND INNS
Hotel Lana‘i (808-565-7211; hotellanai.com), 828 Lana‘i Ave. Until the two resorts opened in 1990 and 1991, this small lodge was virtually the only place on the island open after dark. The Hotel remains, as it has been for decades, the favorite gathering spot of Lana‘i residents for eating, drinking, and socializing. Originally built by the Dole Corporation in 1923 for its guests visiting on company business, the putty-colored, wood-framed building was also a boardinghouse for pineapple plantation supervisors. Each guest room is smallish but different, but you can count on them being fresh and tidy and having a private bath. (The hotel underwent a complete renovation in 2005.) Hawaiian quilts, ceiling fans, and a good dose of ahola upon check-in are par for the course at this sweet place. Ask for one of the four rooms with shared lanais for a good view of the Norfolk pines surrounding the lodge. Otherwise, they have in common hardwood floors, pedestal sinks, whitewashed pine furnishings, and patchwork quilts. Since this was formerly a plantation house, the walls are none too thick. The adjacent freestanding cottage, with a separate sitting room, is ideal for families or honeymooners. This is the only accommodation with a TV. Rates: $$; children (under eight) free in parent’s room; two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: 10 rooms and one cottage, Lana‘i City Grill restaurant, access to services and facilities at two resorts (including beach transportation), continental breakfast, no A/C.
MANELE BAY HOTEL & HULOPO‘E BEACH
Dreams Come True (808-565-6961 or 1-800-566-6961; dreamscometruelanai.com), 1168 Lana‘i Ave. Dating to 1925 and renovated in 2000, this family-style plantation house has four guest rooms, is decorated with Asian antiques, and has a private bath. In addition to a nice garden, Michael and Susan Hunter’s property has fruit trees that provide breakfast goods. Rates: $. Facilities and amenities: four rooms, full breakfast, in-house massage, complimentary activity-booking service, Internet access available, use of refrigerator and microwave, BBQ, no A/C, no phones.
CAMPING
Hulopo‘e Beach (808-565-3975; 808-565-2970 reservations), Hulopo‘e Beach Park. Surrounded by kiawe trees and far enough from the resort to make it feel private, this is one of the few places in Hawai‘i where I really like to camp. Rates: $20 for a permit, $5 per person per night; three-day maximum; pay for permits on arrival. Facilities: restrooms, showers, barbecue, and picnic area. By the way, camping on the beach is reserved for residents.
Where to Eat
Although the dining choices on Lana‘i are limited in many ways, you’ll find everything from sophisticated four-star dining to unpretentious and unassuming plate-lunch places. Because the island is so small, practically all the eateries on Lana‘i are reviewed here, which isn’t normally the case.
DINING OUT
Dining Room (808-565-4580; fourseasons.com/koele), Lodge at Ko‘ele. Open for dinner nightly. Reminiscent of the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite, the Four Seasons’ dining room here is understated in an elegant way; rustically upscale with fine, fine service and a fine, fine wine list. New American dishes tend to be a bit heartier here than at Manele Bay because of how the cooler Upcountry climate affects guests’ appetites. Although the menu changes seasonally, you might find mac-crusted Lana‘i axis venison, Colorado lamb, or roasted duck. On my last visit, I was rather partial to scallops and poached Keahole lobster. Reservations required; children’s menu. Entrées $$$$.
HOTEL LANA‘I
Ihilani (808-565-7700; fourseasons.com/manelebay), Manele Bay. Open for dinner Tues.–Sat. The main formal dining room at this Four Seasons specializes in Mediterranean-and island-influenced dishes like onaga alla puttanesca, risotto, and spinach gnocchi. As for the setting, think chandeliers, crystal, and silver. It’s formal, it’s romantic, it’s got a too-fabulous wine list, and it’s aptly named: Ihilani means “heavenly splendor”! Reservations required; children’s menu. Entrées $$$$.
Terrace (808-565-4580; fourseasons.com/koele), Lodge at Ko‘ele. Open for all three meals daily. Set between the Great Hall and the English gardens, this dignified restaurant is the casual alternative to the main dining room. I use casual loosely; it’s lovely but low-key. Breakfast is a relaxing treat here. Try the brioche French toast; macadamia nut blintzes with mango and mascarpone; or poached eggs on blue crabcakes. The latter is fabulous. At lunchtime, the Terrace ups the ante on contemporary American comfort food with pan-seared tuna on baby spinach or a Lana‘i venison pastrami melt sandwich. At suppertime, grilled pork chops with apple-onion potato pie share the stage with pan-roasted, free-range chicken and forest mushrooms. Reservations recommended for dinner; children’s menu. Breakfast $$, lunch $$, dinner entrées $$$.
Hulopo‘e Court (808-565-7700; fourseasons.com/manelebay), Manele Bay. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. This “islandy” restaurant, with Lana‘i murals, high ceilings, and Asian décor, is a more casual alternative to Manele Bay’s signature restaurant. Dinner mains range from seared opakapaka and a Hawaiian trio of seafood to kiawe-grilled lamb, chops, steaks, and mahimahi. All dishes are prepared with locally available ingredients. Reservations recommended at dinner; children’s menu. Breakfast à la carte $$, breakfast buffet $$$, lunch $$, dinner entrées $$$.
Lana‘i City Grill (808-565-7211; hotellanai.com), Hotel Lana‘i. Open for dinner nightly. There’s only one real choice between luxe and laid-back, and this is it. Miss it and you miss an integral part of Lana‘i. It’s more or less a countrified lodge, with a cozy fireplace, Windsor chairs, wood paneling, and small but convivial bar. (You can’t go wrong with a Lana‘i tai.) It’s a busy place, a place where everybody eventually knows your name. Luckily, it’s also very good. Bev Gannon (of Maui’s Hali‘imaile General Store fame) serves as the “culinary advisor.” Try the spit-roasted meats, a house specialty; oyster shooters; Maryland crab cakes; Joe’s meat loaf; pork chops; and the pecan-crusted catch of the day. Reservations recommended. Entrées $$$$.
EATING OUT
The Experience at Ko‘ele Clubhouse (808-565-4605; fourseasons.com/koele), at the golf course. Open for lunch daily. I really enjoy this casual place that dishes up light American dishes with great ocean views. With luck you’ll get a table on the lanai. On my last visit, the citrus-glazed mahimahi catch-of-the-day grabbed my taste buds, as did the oversized smoked turkey club sandwich. If you’re into sweet things, the ice cream sandwich will satisfy that proverbial sweet tooth. Children’s menu. Lunch $–$$.
The Challenge at Manele Clubhouse (808-565-2232; fourseasons.com/manelebay), at the golf course. Open for lunch daily. You don’t have to golf here to want to eat here. You might simply come for great outdoor views of Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s Mount Haleakala. Some say this clubhouse has Lana‘i’s best outdoor tables. Then again, they also offer lots of enticing appetizers, fancy sandwiches, and first rate island influenced dishes. Children’s menu. Lunch $$.
Ocean Grille (808-565-7700; fourseasons.com/manelebay), Manele Bay. Open for lunch daily, dinner Thurs.–Mon. This Four Seasons poolside grill dishes up creative wok concoctions, a bevy of large and small plates perfect for noshing, and mains from free-range chicken to local seafood with Pacific Rim influences. Children’s menu. Lunch dishes $$, dinner entrées $$$$.
Pele’s Other Garden (808-565-9628), Houston St., on Dole Park. Open for lunch weekdays. By day this informal New York–style deli prepares box lunches to go, pizzas, soups, organic salads, burritos, and thick pastrami sandwiches. By night, it’s transformed into a “real” restaurant, an Italian-style eatery with tablecloths and fancier pasta dishes. The owners, Barbara and Mark, have a nice back patio, too. Lunch $, dinner $$.
Blue Ginger Café (808-565-6363), Seventh St., on Dole Park. Open for all three meals daily. Don’t let the plastic tablecloths deter you from this friendly place. Locals hang out on the front porch here (at four tables), enjoying breakfast omelets and killer French toast, lunchtime Spam on rice or fried saimin, pigs in a blanket, and mahimahi sandwiches. You should consider doing the same. Breakfast and lunch $, dinner entrées $$.
Café 565 (808-565-6622), Eighth and Ilima Sts., off Dole Park. Open for lunch and dinner weekdays, lunch Sat. In the interest of full disclosure, this café offers hot and cold subs and pizzas. Dishes $–$$.
Coffee Works (808-565-6962), Ilima St., a block off Dole Park. Open 6–3 Mon.–Sat. This former plantation house dishes up sweet and flavorful Roselani and Lapperts ice cream, both Hawaiian made. Beware (or be happy): Their milkshakes have about five scoops of ice cream in them! A low-key gathering place for locals in the morning; I enjoy an afternoon espresso here on the deck. They also have pizzas and bagels. Dishes under $10.
PELE’S OTHER GARDEN
Afternoon Tea (808-565-7300), Lodge at Ko‘ele. Served 3–5 daily. Much anticipated by in-house and other visitors, the complimentary afternoon tea (with scones, jam, and clotted cream) in front of a warming fire at The Lodge is a wonderfully comforting tradition.
GENERAL STORES
Pine Isle Market (808-565-6488), Eighth St., on Dole Park. Open Mon.–Sat. This market supplies most islanders’ needs, from fishing supplies to food and household goods.
Richard’s Shopping Center (808-565-3000), Eighth St., on Dole Park. Open Mon.–Sat. The other market in town was founded in 1946 by Richard Tamashiro. This general store stocks breads from Central Bakery, liquor, a bevy of T-shirts, and groceries.
International Food & Clothing Center (808-565-6433), Ilima St., barely off Dole Park. Open daily except Sat. This old-fashioned place has more food (although the international descriptor is suspect) than clothing.
Lana’i Plantation Store (808-565-7227), Lana‘i Ave., barely off Dole Park. Open daily. Car rentals, groceries, and gas.
Entertainment
It’s the simple things in life that you’ll remember. Watch the moon and stars from your resort or hotel.
Lana‘i City Grille (808-565-7211; hotellanai.com), Lana‘i Ave. One of the best ways to enjoy the undeveloped island is to hang out here, listen to conversations, and ask occasional questions. Linger by the fireplace in the dining room during the cool evenings or sip a Lana‘i tai at the low-key bar. Come for “Friday Under the Stars,” with food and live music on the lanai. Last call at 8:30 PM.
Lana‘i Playhouse (808-565-7500), Seventh St., Lana‘i City. Shows Fri.–Tues. It was a big deal when this theater opened with Dolby surround sound.
The Great Hall, at The Lodge at Ko‘ele. Sit in front of one of two baronial fireplaces and really read the paper. Don’t just skim the headlines. Or play cards with friends. Or sink into a plush red leather chair with a glass of port and marvel at how hard it is to get up. Or listen to someone play the piano.
BAMBOO STANDS
ROMANTIC PLACES FOR COCKTAILS
Your own (albeit temporary) private lanai. You’re paying enough for the room, so stay in and pour yourself a drink at the Manele Bay Hotel or The Lodge at Ko‘ele.
Hale Ahe‘ahe, at the Manele Bay Hotel. The upscale, open-air lounge at the “House of Gentle Breezes” has easy-listening evening entertainment.
Selective Shopping
All these tiny shops surround, or are barely off, Dole Park. Shops are generally closed after 5 PM and all day Sunday.
Gifts With Aloha (808-565-6589; giftswithaloha.com), Seventh St., on Dole Park. Kim and Phoenix Dupree have assembled a nice collection of books, clothes, local arts (like hand-blown glass and Japanese-style pottery), and products made on Maui. Don’t miss it.
Dis ’N’ Dat (808-565-9170; suzieo.com), Eighth St., on Dole Park. True to their pidgin store name, Barry and Suzie Osman sell a little of this and that, including a monstrous collection of jewelry and ornaments—all quite cool and interesting, and there’s tons of it! I bet it’ll be difficult to leave the shop empty-handed. Don’t miss it.
Lana‘i Art Center (808-565-7503; lanaiart.org), Seventh St., on Dole Park. Director Greg Cohen oversees a rich island resource whose motto includes the notion that “art is the unfettered expression of the human spirit: the place where the spirit soars and explores all possibilities…We need art to refresh and nourish us; to coat daily life with a gilding of light and color; to open our hearts to nature, to the loveliness of this island.” As Greg suggests, stop in to witness “the possibilities of artistic creation by people who would not ordinarily have those opportunities.” If you can tear yourself away from the resorts, check out the two-to three-hour art classes in silk screening, raku, or fish printing.
Mike Carroll Gallery (808-565-7122; mikecarrollgallery.com), 443 Seventh St., barely off Dole Park. Mike and his wife, Kathy, operate this working studio, whose air is thick with linseed oil. If you can’t afford an original, look into a limited-edition print on canvas, a mini monthly desk calendar, or note cards.
The Local Gentry (808-565-9130), Seventh St., one storefront off Dole Park. Head here for lovely, island-style casual and evening resort garb. This sweet shop carries aloha shirts, hemp and linen shirts, beach shoes, and beach bags. Who knew you’d find such things here?
Saturday Marketplace, on Dole Park. From 7 to 11 AM each Saturday (although most vendors finish at 10), the park comes alive with a small-scale produce market, plate-lunch purveyors (Japanese and Filipino style), Nellie’s vegetable or banana lumpia, low-key and locally made arts and crafts, and jams and jellies made by B&B host Dolores Fabrao. It doesn’t get more homespun than this. I like to show up at 6 AM when they’re setting up.
DIS ‘N’ DAT