THE BIG ISLAND IN BRIEF
The island of Hawai‘i, usually referred to as the Big Island for clarity by everyone except locals, is a place of primal power, elemental mana (spirit). Diversity is its middle name, and -est is its calling card.
Let’s start with the -est claims to fame. It boasts the clearest skies on the planet, the two tallest mountain peaks in the world as measured from the sea bottom, the best collection of world-class resorts (on the Kohala Coast), the most active volcano (erupting since 1983), the southernmost point in the United States (Ka Lae), the most powerful telescopes in the world (Keck), the calmest waters in the state because of prevailing winds and the position of Mauna Kea (13,796 feet) and Mauna Loa (13,677 feet), and the most feared goddess of them all (Pele), who lives in Kilauea.
The Big Island is also the youngest sibling in the archipelago (a mere 800,000 years young), the least explored, and quite obviously the biggest, even though only 10 percent of the state’s population lives here. (You could put two of each of the other islands within these 4,000 square miles and still have room left over.) It’s also still growing: In about 100,000 years, Lo‘ihi, an underwater island near Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, will peek above the ocean’s surface as more and more lava spews from Kilauea and piles up. It has over 250 miles of coastline but the fewest swimming beaches.
It’s a place where a great king was born (North Kohala) and died (Kailua-Kona); a place where royalty played and worshiped and plotted the unification of the islands; a place thick with royal fishponds, royal heiaus (temples), royal footpaths, and ancient petroglyphs.
Variety and dichotomy are the spice of Big Island life. She is stark with black lava and white coral, black-sand beaches and snowcapped mountaintops. Moonscapes and desert landscapes blanket her dry side, while rain forests and jungles cut a swath across her wet side. She has five volcanoes, one green-sand beach, and 11 climatic zones. In the same day you may need pants and shorts, sunscreen, and an umbrella. She is spectacularly fiery, tempting you down a hiking path to her glory, and she is lazy-making, lulling you into submission. Like a mischievous genie, the Big Island plays hide-and-seek with travelers, enticing you away from her soul.
The main tourist centers on the Kohala Coast and the Kona Coast (and Kailua-Kona in particular) are a separate reality, a vacation playland that diverts most visitors from the natural and cultural richness of other regions. To experience the Big Island’s bounty, you have to explore farther afield, and you must probe with patience. When you do, you’ll learn precious secrets about the enduring spirit of old Hawai‘i.
The volcanoes that formed all the islands are still active here. Before Mount St. Helens and Mount Redoubt erupted, the Mauna Loa and Kilauea peaks on the southern side of the Big Island were the only known live volcanoes in the United States. Unlike explosive cone volcanoes, their eruptions are not violent. They boil over slowly, sending lava snaking toward the sea at a dilatory pace. You can watch the eruptions in safety, if you are in the right place at the right time. The lucky will witness one of the most stunning sights of their lives. Typically, however, the Big Island doesn’t make it easy. Mauna Loa erupts just once every few years. Kilauea is much more active, frequently spewing lava from its crater in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. If the lava is flowing, don’t miss it.
The northern half of the island has its own natural wonders, not nearly as well known and even less accessible. On the rainy eastern side of the North Kohala Peninsula, erosion has cut through massive volcanic cliffs to create spectacular valleys such as Waipi‘o and Waimanu.
Waipi‘o (just over the vertical cliff on a 7-mile trail on the Hamakua Coast) and the rest of the Kohala Coast, along with the Kona Coast, are rich in Hawaiian history. Polynesians settled the Big Island first, and for the next 1,400 years, until the 19th century, it was politically and culturally the most important of the islands. It was also the home of King Kamehameha the Great, who first united all of Hawai‘i under his rule. Historic sights from his era and earlier dot the western shore. A few have become tourist attractions, but some are rarely visited. The Mo‘okini Heiau, the temple where Kamehameha was taken for birth rites, is one of the most significant Polynesian ruins in Hawai‘i, yet it is virtually unknown to visitors.
Many Big Island small towns retain strong roots in the past. Bastions of the old ways, they have more authentic character and local personality than any of the dozen or so resort communities. Only Kailua-Kona has been commercially modernized beyond recognition of its former self. Incredibly, that is where the vast majority of tourists spend their time. They are likely to make a day trip to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, and they may zip through a few other spots on an island tour, but mostly they huddle together in one of the most prosaic places on Hawai‘i’s most sublime island. The goddess Pele, from her home in the Kilauea Crater, must roar with laughter at the contemporary tourism.
So, then, what should you do, where should you stay, how should you divide up your time? My ideal Hawaiian vacation, when I have time for only one island, is spent splitting the days between a Kohala Coast resort and a couple of smaller, less expensive places around the island that reflect her native spirit. (Day-tripping around the island from a Kohala Coast resort is possible, but, frankly, too much time is eaten up en route to wherever you’re headed.)
The Kohala Coast, where the Big Island’s only long, wide, sandy beaches are located, is lined with superlative and expensive resorts. Resort development on this shore, Hawai‘i’s premier upscale destination, has been the most sensitive and impressive in the state. If you can afford one of these resorts, by all means do it. Do beware, though, of being lulled into missing the rest of the Big Island.
Take a day trip from here into North Kohala and Kailua-Kona. Then spend a night in Waimea (a well-to-do town of cowboys, cows, and prime dining) or somewhere along the Hamakua Coast (where agriculture reigns). Or spend a night in a smaller South Kona town like Holualoa and explore that region without having to backtrack too much. Then spend a couple of nights in Hilo (a delightfully welcoming town) or Volcano Village (rife with bed & breakfasts on the edge of the national park).
The Big Island’s soul is coquettish and her secrets are elusive, but they are definitely worth seeking out.
GUIDANCE
Big Island Visitor’s Bureau (808-961-5797, 808-886-1655, or 1-800-648-2441; bigisland.org) has offices in Hilo and Waikoloa (near the Kohala Coast); see those sections for details.
MORE WEB SITES
eyeofhawaii.com (islandwide information)
gohawaii.com (Hawai‘i Visitor’s & Convention Bureau)
state.hi.us/dlnr (Hawai‘i’s Department of Lands and Natural Resources)
nps.gov/havo (Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park)
honoluluadvertiser.com (daily newspaper)
starbulletin.com (daily newspaper)
stayhawaii.com (Hawai‘i B&B Association)
instanthawaii.com (islandwide information)
NEWSPAPERS
For local news, pick up West Hawai‘i Today (808-329-9311 or 1-800-355-3911; westhawaiitoday.com) for coverage in and around Kailua-Kona.
The free and ubiquitous publications 101 Things to Do on the Big Island, This Week, and the Beach and Activity Guide are full of helpful information.
WEATHER
Call the National Weather Service (808-935-8555 in Hilo; 808-961-5582 elsewhere on the Big Island) when it matters. If you’re boating, call 808-935-9883.
MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Call 911. For hospitals, contact Kona Community Hospital (808-322-9311, Kealakekua); Hilo Medical Center (808-974-4700, Waianuenue Ave., Hilo); North Hawai‘i Community Hospital (808-885-4444, Waimea).
GETTING THERE
By air from the mainland: The Big Island has two airports: Kailua-Kona (on the leeward side of the island) and Hilo (on the windward or eastern side); most visitors fly into the drier Kailua-Kona. American (1-800-433-7300; aa.com) and United (1-800-241-6522; united.com) offer a fair number of direct flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles to the Big Island. But the majority of flights still go through Honolulu.
At first glance the Big Island almost discourages you from landing. If you fly into Hilo, the largest town, it’s likely to be raining. As the plane descends into Kailua-Kona, you see acres of desolate black lava fields that make the moon seem welcoming. At first it resembles parking lots of torn-up asphalt. However, as with any great desert, what originally seems monotonous and bleak turns out to be intriguingly diverse upon closer inspection. Don’t expect to be captivated upon arrival, but I predict the lava wilderness of the Kohala Coast will grow on you.
Interisland air: Hawaiian Airlines (808-838-1555 or 1-800-367-5320; hawaiianair.com) and Go! Airlines (1-888-435-9462; iflygo.com) provide frequent interisland jet service to neighbor islands. When you book through a major carrier they will hook you up with a through flight to the Big Island.
GETTING AROUND
By car: Islanders talk about how big the Big Island is, but chances are, if you’re a mainlander, it will seem quite manageable. The belt road around the Big Island is approximately 230 miles and would take about six hours to drive nonstop—a foolish thing to do, but I want to give you some perspective. Driving from Kailua-Kona to Hilo along the northern route takes about two to two and a half hours, while driving the southern route from Kona to Hilo takes about three and a half hours.
Although you can take a taxi or shuttle (SpeediShuttle; 1-800-242-5777; speedishuttle.com) from the Kona airport to Kailua-Kona (where it’s conceivable to stay without a car) or from the Hilo airport to downtown Hilo, I strongly recommend renting a car. The island contains 21 of 23 of the world’s climatic zones, and you’ll need a car to explore them. You’ll only be able to give the island the attention it deserves by touring in a car. All major rental companies are represented at both airports.
A ROAD BY ANY OTHER NAME
Hwy. 19 = aka Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway (between Kailua-Kona and Kawaihae)
Hwy. 190 = aka Mamalahoa Highway (between Kailua-Kona and Waimea)
Hwy. 270 = aka Akoni Pule Highway (between Kawaihae and Hawi)
Hwy. 250 = aka Kohala Mountain Road (between Hawi and Waimea)
Hwy. 200 = aka Saddle Road (between Waikoloa and Hilo across Mauna Kea)
Hwy. 11 = aka the Hawai‘i Belt Road (the road that circles the island)
Just so you know, there is also a free bus that runs around the island: Hele-On Bus (808-961-8744; co.hawaii.hi.us/mass_transit/heleonbus.html).
By most measures, the Kona Coast (specifically Kailua-Kona) and the Kohala Coast are the only truly developed tourist destinations. Hilo has toyed with tourism, but special places to stay are limited. The tiny village of Volcano, because of the nearby Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, is increasingly popular with the B&B crowd. North Kohala, the Hamakua Coast, and the quiet South Point Area are generally off the beaten path, but each offers unusual accommodations.
For the most part, this chapter is organized as if you’ll be exploring clockwise from the Kona airport.
By RV: Touring the Big Island by RV might be right up your lava flow. If so, call Island RV (808-334-0464 or 1-800-406-4555; islandrv.com). For about $2,200 weekly you’ll get a fully outfitted, 22-foot cruiser that sleeps four and includes all campground registrations and permits. (Hawai‘i laws state that you can’t just pull over on the side of the road to sleep; you must stay in designated campgrounds.) Rental rates include 300 miles, but since it’s about 235 miles around the island without detouring, you’ll have to keep an eye on the odometer. Island RV will pick you up at the Kona airport on arrival and provide one room at the Royal Kona Resort on your last night. There is an additional charge if you’re not picking up and dropping off between 9 AM and 5 PM.
ISLANDWIDE TOURS
By various modes: Hawai‘i Forest & Trail (808-331-8505 or 1-800-464-1993; hawaii-forest.com), 74-5035-B Queen Kamehameha Hwy., Kailua-Kona. With experienced naturalists by your side, every corner of the Big Island is open to exploration. Based on your interests and abilities, Rob and Cindy Pacheco’s expert team creates adventure trips (for groups of 10 and under) to the Big Island’s spectacular natural wonders. You can ride by van to Mauna Kea’s summit, take an evening tour of the constellations, and return to earth to explore the volcano at Hualalai. If you’re staying south of Kona, meet at headquarters; otherwise, shuttle service is available. Mauna Kea trip: $169 per person (dinner and gear included).
Since the Big Island also has more native bird species than any other Hawaiian island, this outfitter also offers a full-day Rainforest Birding Adventure. Adults and children $171; children should be able to hike on uneven terrain for extended periods. Binoculars, walking sticks, snacks, lunch, rain gear, and cold-weather gear provided.
HAPU‘U FERN
By audio tour: Big Island Audio Tour (808-896-4275; bigislandaudiotour.com). Perhaps the best investment (besides this book) that you can make to enhance your appreciation of the Big Island is to purchase this $20 CD. It entertains and educates listeners with anecdotal information and interesting tidbits on over 30 sites around the island. Order one before you fly to Hawai‘i.
SAMPLE DRIVING DISTANCES
Kailua-Kona to Waimea: 40 miles, about 50 minutes
Waimea to Hilo: 54 miles, about 75 minutes
Hilo to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park: 28 miles, about 45 minutes
Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park to Kailua-Kona: 110 miles, about 3 hours
By air: Mokulele Airlines (808-326-7070 or 1-866-260-7070; mokuleleairlines.com) departs from the Kailua-Kona airport. I highly recommend a circle island tour in one of these fixed-wing aircrafts ($349). Although the aircrafts provide a stable ride, folks prone to motion sickness may still want to take a Dramamine prior to departure.
Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (808-886-1768 or 1-800-786-2583; bluehawaiian.com). Tours depart from Hilo and Waikoloa. Take an aerial tour of a lifetime above active lava flows on their 50-minute Circle of Fire tour departing from Hilo. Or dip along the Kohala Coast for breathtaking views of ancient geological formations and lush rain forests; this two-hour tour departs from Waikoloa. Routes and times may be dictated by prevailing conditions. Prices start at $217 per person; reservations are recommended; online deals available.
By bike: Although it may seem daunting to Sunday riders, it’s quite possible to circle the island in a week, but you’ll have to do some advance planning. Contact PATH (808-936-4653; pathhawaii.org), which has a great biking guide map, or visit the Hilo Bike Hub (808-961-4452; hilobikehub.com), 318 East Kawili St., for information on rides around the Big Island. On the Kona side, Kona Cycling (808-327-0087; cyclekona.com) offers four-and six-hour tours for all levels along diverse ecosystems.
ENDANGERED SEA TURTLE
By foot: Hawaiian Walkways (808-775-0372 or 1-800-457-7759; hawaiianwalkways.com). Winner of the First Annual Tour Operator of the Year Award (as conferred by the Hawai‘i Ecotourism Association), Dr. Hugh Montgomery offers exceptional custom and scheduled hikes around the island that are suited to various abilities. You’ll get far, far, far more out of hiking with Hugh than you will alone. Half-day prescheduled trips: $95 adults, $75 children; full-day trips: $150 adults, $95 children. Call ahead for availability.
Underwater: Nautilus Dive Center (808-935-6939; nautilusdivehilo.com), 382 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo. The Big Island—sometimes—offers a rare opportunity for experienced divers to dive where molten lava streams into the ocean. At press time, ever-changing conditions mandated a halt to these dives, but it’s always worth checking.
Big Island Snuba (808-326-7446; snubabigisland.com), Kailua-Kona. For kids and adults with an appetite for adventure and a healthy respect for learning-before-doing, snuba might be the ticket. Compared to its scuba counterpart, equipment is pared down and lightweight. Snuba uses a simple harness and regulator for breathing, and users always remain tethered to a hose attached to a tank on a raft. Packages include a more-than-adequate 15-minute lesson on how to safely descend 25 feet, the perfect depth for beginners to view aquatic life up close while still enjoying the comfort of a nearby instructor. Take a 90-minute beach dive from King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel or a longer boat dive from various locations along the Kona Coast (depending upon weather conditions). Instructor-led Snuba Doo packages offer flotation vests and regulators for children ages 4–7. Instructor certification programs are also available. Dives $49–165 per person; Snuba Doo $69–110.
Golf: Stand-by Golf (1-888-645-2665; stand-bygolf.com). While frequent fliers know about standby flights, golfing enthusiasts should know about Stand-by Golf. Unsold tee times at some of the best courses on the island are available at the last minute for lower prices ($70–150) than if you’d booked ahead. Tee times are available for many courses on Kaua‘i, Maui, and O‘ahu, too. For same-day reservations, call between 7 AM and 1:30 PM; for next-day tee times, call 6–10 PM.
TOP 10 “MUSTS” FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS
Marvel at creation at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park
Descend into Waipi‘o Valley
Hike to Akaka Falls
Hang in Hilo and absorb local culture
Ascend Mauna Kea for serious stargazing
Drink Kona coffee in a Holualoa café
Snorkel at Kealakekua Bay, skirting sea caves
Spend lazy days at Hapuna Beach or Mauna Kea Beach
Linger at the Pololu Valley Lookout
Visit black sand and sea turtles at Punalu‘u Beach Park
TOP 10 IDEAS FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Explore HVNP much more thoroughly
Tour Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park
Don’t move from your perch at a five-star North Kohala resort
Test your patience and skills at Hapuna and Mauna Kea Golf Courses
Look for petroglyphs at the Pu‘ako Archaeological Petroglyph District
Go whale-watching with Captain Dan McSweeney
Stand on the very southern tip of South Point
Understand the importance of Pu‘ukohola Heiau National Historic Site
Take a night dive to watch manta rays
Plan your trip to witness the Merrie Monarch Festival
Special Events
For a complete list of islandwide events, consult calendar.gohawaii.com.
Mid-March: Kona Brewers Festival (808-331-3033; konabrewersfestival.com), King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel, Kailua-Kona. Come for the beer tasting and stay for the cause—raising hundreds of thousands of dollars for environmental and cultural organizations.
Late March: Prince Kuhio Celebrations, statewide. On March 26, Hawai‘i celebrates the birth of Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, who served as a congressional delegate from 1903 to 1921.
LAVA FLOW AS SEEN FROM A HELICOPTER
Easter: Merrie Monarch Hula Festival (808-935-9168; merriemonarchfestival.org), Hilo. This weeklong cultural event begins the day after Easter Sunday, and the hula competition takes place the following weekend. (The solo Miss Aloha Hula is on Thursday, kahiko is Friday night, and halau is on Saturday night.) Reserve your tickets months in advance.
May 1: Lei Day, statewide. The phrase “May Day is Lei Day” was coined by Grace Tower Warren in 1928 when Lei Day was conceived.
June: King Kamehameha Celebration (808-586-0333; hawaii.gov/dags/king_kamehameha_commission), statewide. Hawai‘i’s longest-running festival honors King Kamehameha, unifier of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
Late June: Great Waikoloa Food, Wine & Music Festival (808-886-1234; hiltonwaikoloavillage.com), Hilton Waikoloa Village. At this festival, part of the Hilton’s Dolphin Days celebration, chefs from around the world gather to flaunt their latest tastes.
July 4: Parker Ranch Horse Races & Rodeo (808-885-7311; parkerranch.com/events), Waimea. Let this group of paniolos (cowboys) show you the ropes—with horse racing, pony rides, food, and lots of other action.
Turtle Independence Day (808-881-7911; maunalani.com), Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, Kohala Coast. On July 4th, visitors can watch as turtles bred in captive are ceremoniously returned to the ocean.
Late July: Crater Rim Run & Marathon (808-967-8222; volcanoartcenter.org), Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. One of the toughest but most beautifully sited marathons also holds a noncompetitive, 5-mile run-walk.
August: Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament (808-329-6155; konabillfish.com), Kailua-Kona. Anglers from around world descend on Hawai‘i.
Mid-August: Hawaiian Cultural Festival (808-882-7218; nps.gov/puhe), Kawaihae. This weekend celebration at Pu‘ukohola Heiau National Historic Site includes canoe rides and arts and crafts workshops. Because of the 2007 earthquake, which caused damage to the heiau, the traditional opening ceremony and the morning sunrise service in Hawaiian will probably not be held.
Mid-to late August: Admissions Day, statewide. On the third Friday in August, all islands celebrate the day Hawai‘i became the 50th state.
Late August: Slack-Key Guitar Festival (808-226-2697; slackkeyfestival.com), Kailua-Kona. Some of Hawai‘i’s most accomplished folk musicians gather to play the slack key guitar, steel guitar, and ‘ukulele.
TOP DOZEN PLACES TO STAY AROUND THE BIG ISLAND
Best Romantic Hideaways
Waianuhea (Hamakua Coast)
Volcano Places (Nohea) (Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park)
The Inn at Kulaniapia (Hilo & Around)
The Cliff House (Hamakua Coast)
Best Intimate & Affordable Lodgings
Hale Ohia Cottages (Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park)
Dolphin Bay Hotel (Hilo & Around)
Waimea Gardens Cottage (North Kohala & Waimea)
Best B&Bs
Waianuhea (Hamakua Coast)
Waipi‘o Wayside Bed & Breakfast Inn (Hamakua Coast)
Shipman House Bed & Breakfast (Hilo & Around)
Best Unusual Places
The Hobbit House (The South Point Area)
Wood Valley Temple Retreat & Guest House (The South Point Area)
(See also Top 10 Places to Stay on the Kona Coast, p. 376, and Top Places to Stay on the Kohala Coast, p. 401.)
TOP PLACES TO EAT BEYOND THE KONA & KOHALA COASTS
Pricey
Merriman’s (North Kohala & Waimea)
Moderate
Café Pesto (North Kohala & Waimea)
Bamboo (North Kohala & Waimea)
Hilo Bay Café (Hilo & Around)
Seaside Restaurant and Aquafarm (Hilo & Around)
Cheap Eats
Simply Natural (Hamakua Coast)
(See also Top 10 (Plus One) Places to Eat in Kona & Kohala, p. 382.)
Late August–early September: Big Island Festival (808-326-7820; bigislandfestival.com). One of the Big Island’s largest festivals offers food, wine, spa events, and golf.
First weekend in September: Queen Lili‘uokalani Long Distance Canoe Races (808-324-1541 or 808-334-9481; kaiopua.org), between Kailua-Kona Pier and Honaunau. Thousands of spectators gather for the world’s largest long-distance canoe race.
September: Aloha Festivals (808-589-1771; alohafestivals.com), state-wide. Big Island festivities include parades, hula, beauty contests, and a festival at Parker Ranch.
Poke Contest (808-880-3028; pokecontest.com), Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel and Mauna Kea Beach Resort. Part of the festival is dedicated to finding the best poke (pieces of raw fish mixed with local ingredients) recipes.
Mid-September: Kupuna Hula Festival (808-322-1812; alohafestivals.com), Keauhou Sheraton, Kailua-Kona. Hawaiian elders gather for a hula competition while lessons are offered in the hotel lobby; arts and crafts demonstrations are also offered.
Mid-October: Ironman Triathlon World Championship (808-329-0063; ironmanlive.com), Kailua-Kona. Spectators watch for free as competitors swim 2.4 miles from the Kailua-Kona Pier, bike 112 miles up the Kona Coast to Hawi and back, and then run 26.2 miles.
Mid-November: Kona Coffee Cultural Festival (808-326-7820; konacoffeefest.com). This 10-day event includes coffee-picking contests, living-history farm tours, art exhibits, and a parade.
BANANA LEAVES