KAUA‘I IN BRIEF
I know this much is true: Few islands in the world rival Kaua‘i in natural grandeur.
The oldest of the Hawaiian archipelago, it erupted from the sea 5 million years ago. Its highest point (5,148 feet) is an extinct volcano in the center of the island. The top of this mountain, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (“overflowing water”), is also one of the wettest spots on earth and siphons from omnipresent clouds about 500 inches of rain a year. The island’s age and the rainfall produce dazzling effects: eroded peaks that spiral with geometric decisiveness; cascading currents of water that fall freely; jungle valleys so unexplored that some natives believe they are home to a mysterious race of people; the gorge that Mark Twain call the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”; breathtaking bays and beaches buffeted by a relentless sea for so long that they shimmer with perfected defiance.
Kaua‘i challenges us to live fully, with each and every sense. To smell sweet ginger wafting through the forest. To touch a rainbow. To contemplate the passage of time. To listen as endangered songbirds test their voices to see if humanity can still hear. To taste rain. To continually see with wondering eyes as each curve brings yet another eye-popping beach, emerald valley, or jagged cliff.
Kaua‘i’s dramatic scenery dazzles Hollywood. John Wayne, Dorothy Lamour, Charlton Heston, Rita Hayworth, Mitzi Gaynor, and Elvis Presley all made films on Kaua‘i’s beaches. Secluded tropical valleys served as backdrop locations for Jurassic Park, Raiders of the Lost Ark, and King Kong starring Jessica Lange. The most famous set is on the North Shore, where a pair of rugged peaks took on the enduring identity of Bali Hai with the shooting of South Pacific. Bali Hai may be the single most perfectly positioned pinnacle in the world.
You may have been to Kaua‘i via your local cineplex, but that’s no substitute for actual experience. The nobility of the island is exhilarating, even if the resort areas are a bit commonplace. Just bring good hiking shoes and enough money for a rental car. The more you explore, the more enduring the memory will be. Although she doesn’t give up her goods as easily as other islands, Kaua‘i is for the active visitor. (Guided tours abound, because two-thirds of the island is inaccessible wilderness.) And Kaua‘i is also a place for healing; a place for lazy days and watching sunsets. Misty and mystical, laid-back Kaua‘i is not overrun by tourism, yet it has a strong tourism infrastructure. Everything you could possibly want is here, except a healthy dose of nightlife.
And let’s not overlook the folks who live here. Kaua‘i’s nickname may be the Garden Isle, but her mana has had a decided influence on the residents. They’re arguably (I use the word loosely, considering the context) the friendliest in the state.
Development on Kaua‘i has done little to enhance or destroy its natural majesty, though developers are working hard to leave their marks. Kaua‘i has avoided the blotching of the coastal horizon by high-rises, but the resort areas that line the popular shores on either side of the Lihu‘e area tend to be architecturally undistinguished, with buildings often mismatched and certainly mundane against the dramatic natural backdrop. Almost everyone flies into Lihu‘e, an ordinary commercial center.
The South Shore boasts the most popular resort area, Po‘ipu, whose lively and developed beach is choice and where the chance for sunshine is very good. But Po‘ipu is a moderate drive from the island’s natural sights.
In West Kaua‘i, you’ll find Waimea Canyon, another stunning natural attraction protected from exploitation by both its distance from popular resort areas and the rugged contours of the colorful terrain. More accessible than the Na Pali Coast, it can be admired from several roadside viewing points or from many reasonably easy hiking trails. Limited cabin accommodations are available at Koke‘e State Park or in restored plantation cottages in Waimea. The dry west coast has one of the grandest beaches, Polihale, accessible only by dirt roads. Many of its lush fields of waving sugarcane are being supplanted by coffee and macadamia nuts.
The Coconut Coast (the eastern shore), with a dense concentration of places to stay in sprawling Wailua and Kapa‘a, is a short distance from the airport. It tends to be dry over here, but the beaches are not the best for swimming.
HANALEI BAY & BALI HAI
Kaua‘i abounds in gorgeous beaches, many unspoiled, often deserted, and dangerous for swimming in winter. The finest collection is on the North Shore, where rain is more frequent and where one wondrous shore follows another along the sparsely populated main highway. The sands around Kilauea, Hanalei, Lumahai, and Ke‘e are fit for fantasies. And Kaua‘i’s most magnificent regions are too powerful to be tamed by developers. Some say the Menehune, legendary dwarfs credited with creating archaeological wonders, inhabit the savagely wild valleys of the Na Pali Coast. At least they haven’t opened a hotel yet! The only route through Na Pali is a 22-mile round-trip trail, extremely treacherous at points though just moderately tricky for the first 2 miles starting at Ke‘e Beach.
Often called the “separate kingdom” because she resisted King Kamehameha’s advances for so long, Kaua‘i still retains an independent spirit. Interestingly, sights and attractions on Kaua‘i are indicated with an image of the king replete with royal feather cape and helmet. It makes touring easy.
Oh, and about that red dirt: It doesn’t come off. Bring socks, pants, and shorts that you won’t mind relegating to your next Kaua‘i trip. That’s also one reason for removing your shoes before entering someone’s home (or your rental condo).
GUIDANCE
Kaua‘i Visitor’s Bureau (808-245-3971 or 1-800-262-1400; kauaivisitorsbureau.com), 4334 Rice St., Suite 101, Lihu‘e. Open 8–4:30 weekdays. Look for their free Island of Kaua‘i Travel Planner and pocket map.
County Parks & Recreation Department (808-241-4463), for general beach information.
A PERFECT DAY FOR A HELICOPTER TOUR
8:00
Eat a big omelet at Olympic Café
10:30
Head to the skies on a helicopter tour
12:00
Try oxtail stew at Tip Top Café
1:00
Learn about the island and shop for gifts at the Kaua‘i Museum
3:00
Snorkel at Lydgate State Park
5:00
Take a sunset stroll on the Lydgate Beach Park Coastal Trail
6:30
Enjoy live music and scrumptious veggies at Blossoming Lotus
9:00
Groove the night away at The Point (Sheraton)
MORE WEB SITES
poipu-beach.org (Po‘ipu Resort)
state.hi.us/dlnr (Hawai‘i’s Department of Lands and Natural Resources)
honoluluadvertiser.com (daily newspaper)
starbulletin.com (daily newspaper)
gohawaii.com (Hawai‘i Visitor’s & Convention Bureau)
kauaiworld.com (local daily newspaper)]
kauai-hawaii.com (Kaua‘i Visitor’s Bureau)
alternative-hawaii.com (good tourism information)
bnbkauai.com (Bed & Breakfast Kaua‘i)
NEWSPAPERS & RADIO
The Garden Island newspaper (kauaiworld.com) is widely available.
For some classic Hawaiian tunes, tune your radio to 570 AM KQNG. The island’s only commercial-free station (KKCR, at 90.9 and 91.9 FM) features local-issue talk shows as well as jazz, reggae, blues, and rock.
WEATHER
Check current weather conditions before heading out on a hike (808-245-6001) or for an expensive boat trip (808-245-3564 for marine conditions). In summer ocean swells quiet down on the North Shore; in winter they’re dangerously large on the North Shore. The rainy period, most acutely felt on the North Shore, falls (no pun intended) Nov.–Mar.
MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Wilcox Memorial Hospital (808-245-1100), Lihu‘e; open 24/7.
Kaua‘i Veterans Memorial Hospital (808-338-9431), Waimea; open 24/7.
GETTING THERE
By air from the mainland: First things first: Try to sit on the left side of the aircraft on the approach; the views are luscious. Many carriers fly daily direct from the West Coast, including American, United, Alaska, Hawaiian, US Airways, and Aloha. Pleasant Holidays (1-800-742-9244; pleasantholidays.com) puts together good packages from the mainland.
Interisland air: Hawaiian Airlines (808-838-1555) has direct service from Kaua‘i to Maui or O‘ahu. Go! Airlines (1-888-435-9462) has direct service between Lihu‘e and O‘ahu (which means you’ll eat up time at the airport if you plan to head to another island). Kaua‘i, by the way, lies almost 100 miles north of O‘ahu.
By sea: Unless you have a friend with a yacht or you take a cruise through the islands, the only other way to arrive to Kaua‘i is the Hawaii Superferry (1-877-443-3779)…well, maybe. At press time, the Superferry (after an uproar by local protesters) suspended ferry service between Lihu‘e and O‘ahu. But plans are still in the works. Call them directly to see if the car ferry is currently shuttling passengers and for current rates.
GETTING AROUND
By car: Kaua‘i is not encircled by one road. Fifteen miles of coastline, with cliffs too steep for a road, are completely cut off. This calls to true explorers, those not satisfied with today’s all-too-easy drive-by culture. But it also means that unless you divide your lodging between the North and South Shores, you are probably going to be backtracking.
Traffic crawls between Lihu‘e and Kapa‘a during the rush hours (6:30–8:30 and 3:30–5:30). Try to time your trip accordingly.
Heading north from Lihu‘e, take Hwy. 51 (aka Kapule Highway) up through Kapa‘a and the Coconut Coast (the eastern shore) along Hwy. 56 (aka Kuhio Highway) to the North Shore. In Hanalei, Hwy. 56 morphs into little Hwy. 560 until it dead-ends in Ha‘ena at Ke‘e Beach.
Heading south from Lihu‘e, take Hwy. 51 (aka Kapule Highway) to Hwy. 58 (aka Nawiliwili Road) to Hwy. 50 (aka Kaumuali‘i Highway) toward Po‘ipu, Waimea, and Polihale Beach. To reach Po‘ipu, take Hwy. 50 to Hwy. 520 (aka Maluhia Road).
By bus: Kaua‘i Bus (808-241-6410) operates Mon.–Sat. 6:30 AM–7 PM. This inexpensive system isn’t really practical for sightseeing because it doesn’t stop at the big resort areas, but you might still find it valuable for something. It cruises between Hanalei on the North Shore and Kekaha on the South Shore. The visitor’s bureau often has schedules.
By taxi: Contact Kaua‘i Taxi Company (808-246-9554) if you find the need.
DRIVING TIMES & DISTANCES
Lihu‘e to Po‘ipu = 14 miles, about 30 minutes
Lihu‘e to Waimea = 25 miles, about 60 minutes
Lihu‘e to Koke‘e State Park = 36 miles, about 90 minutes
Lihu‘e to Wailua/Kapa‘a = 10 miles, about 15 minutes
Lihu‘e to Hanalei/Princeville = 30 miles, 50–60 minutes
ISLANDWIDE TOURS
By land: Kaua‘i Backroad (aka Aloha Kaua‘i Tours) (808-245-6400 or 1-800-452-1113; alohakauaitours.com). These half-day, narrated jaunts (in an air-conditioned SUV or van) cruise through the 22,000-acre Grove Farm Plantation, where you’ll see rugged coastline, the south cliffs, Kilohana Crater, and a cool 2,200-foot sugar mill tunnel. You’ll also learn a bunch of interesting historical tidbits. For instance, the tunnel was built so that cane didn’t have to be hauled all the way around the mountain. And AOL’s Steve Case, whose grandfather was an accountant for the Wilcox’s and Grove Farm, now owns these sugar fields. (He happens to be the second-largest landowner on Kaua‘i.) You never know what you’re going to pick up by riding around with a local tour guide for four hours. Aloha Kaua‘i also offers other outings. Depending on your interests, consider snorkeling the South or North Shore or taking a 3-mile hike into Wai‘ale‘ale Crater with these folks. Tours $70 adults, $50 ages 5–12.
Hawai‘i Movie Tours (808-822-1192 or 1-800-628-8432; hawaiimovietour.com). Kaua‘i’s awesome grandeur, impossible to re-create on a movie set, has provided the backdrop for dozens of films and TV shows, including Fantasy Island, Gilligan’s Island, South Pacific, King Kong, Six Days & Seven Nights, Blue Hawai‘i, Jurassic Park, and Raiders of the Lost Ark. This tour takes folks to many famed movie locations in the relative luxury of air-conditioned mini buses and four-wheel-drive vans. Since they’re all equipped with digital video and surround sound, you can watch the scene in the van and compare it to what’s outside the window. Depending on your prism, it could be a bit cheesy, but movie buffs will easily get seduced. Regardless, one of the best aspects of the tour is the stunning scenery that you couldn’t see without a permit. Tours $111 adults, $92 children.
By foot: Sierra Club (808-246-8748; hi.sierraclub.org), Lihu‘e. This club offers a great resource page for hikers on its Web site, as well as many organized outings. Do take advantage.
Kaua‘i Nature Tours (808-742-8305 or 1-888-233-8365; kauainaturetours.com). If you are interested in learning about Kaua‘i’s geological and botanical history, take a daylong walking tour with this small group of scientists. Tours head through Waimea Canyon and along the Na Pali Coast, and they include lunch, bottled water, and other snacks to keep your energy up. Here’s a word of warning, though: Some of these hikes can be challenging, but they’re all well worth your while. Children (inquire about special rates) must like to hike and be at least six years of age. Tours $100–130 per person.
ALOHA KAUA‘I TOURS
By air: Most of Kaua‘i is inaccessible. For unparalleled views of the best of the best—Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, Hanalei Valley, Waimea Canyon, and the Kalalau Valley—take to the skies. It’s well worth your money. Most helicopter tours originate from the heliport at the Lihu‘e Airport. Among the companies that fly, you’ll find Jack Harter Helicopters (808-245-3774 or 1-888-245-2001; helicopters-kauai.com) and Island Helicopters (808-245-8588 or 1-800-829-5999; islandhelicopter.com).
Will Squyres Helicopter Tours (808-245-8881 or 1-888-245-4354; helicopters-hawaii.com). If you want a thrilling view that will knock your socks off, tour the island of Kaua‘i in an ASTAR 350 helicopter. This 60-minute narrated tour takes you over, around, and through Waimea Canyon, Wailua Falls, and the legendary Na Pali Coast. If the idea of flying in a chopper doesn’t sit well in the pit of your stomach, don’t worry; Will’s company started in 1984 and has a perfect safety record. (Don’t forget the Dramamine.) The local lore and colorful commentary can’t compete with the Technicolor greenery, but they sure complement it. The grand tour costs $229–275 per person. Kids need to weigh at least 40 pounds.
Underwater: Dive Kaua‘i (808-822-0452; divekauai.com; Kapa‘a), Sea Sport Divers (808-742-9303; kauaiscubadiving.com; Po‘ipu), and Bubbles Below Scuba Charters (808-332-7333; bubblesbelowkauai.com; Ele‘ele) offer myriad rentals for shore dives or boat trips. Because Kaua‘i is the oldest major island, the coral reefs have had more time to develop and therefore offer great diving possibilities. Dives are particularly weather dependent here. Most offshore dives take place off the South Shore (at the Sheraton Caverns), but diving is also good on the North Shore in summer (at the Oceanarium). The eastern Coconut Coast has a popular offshore wreck that also makes a good destination. As for shore dives, talk to the shop pros about South Shore spots like Koloa Landing and Tortugas and North Shore spots such as Tunnels Beach, Ke‘e Beach, and Cannons Beach (just beyond Ha‘ena Beach Park).
Special Events
For a complete list of islandwide events, consult calendar.gohawaii.com.
February: Waimea Town Celebration (808-245-3971), Waimea. Canoe races, a rodeo, and a marathon are held to celebrate the town where Captain Cook first landed. This two-day event draws some 10,000 people.
Late March: Prince Kuhio Celebrations (808-826-9272), Lihu‘e. Hawai‘i celebrates the birth of Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, a congressional delegate from 1903 to 1921. Although this day is celebrated on all the islands, Kaua‘i—the birthplace of this venerable leader—puts on the best show.
TOP 10 “MUSTS” FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS
Peer into Waimea Canyon
Take a Na Pali Coast boat trip
Swim at Po‘ipu Beach Park
Enjoy sunset drinks at Bali Hai
Drive the North Shore
Take a helicopter ride
Visit the Kaua‘i Museum
Hike 2 miles of the Kalalau Trail
Explore Limahuli Garden
Watch the sunset at Polihale
May 1: Lei Day (808-245-6931), state wide. Contests are held for the most beautiful lei at the Kaua‘i Museum, a queen is crowned, and modern and traditional hula competitions are held. The phrase “May Day is Lei Day” was coined by Grace Tower Warren in 1928 when Lei Day was conceived.
May through August: Outrigger Canoe Season (808-261-6615; y2kanu.com), statewide. Canoe races are held most weekends across the state.
Early June: King Kamehameha Celebration (808-245-3971; state.hi.us/dags/kkcc). Hawai‘i’s longest-running festival is celebrated statewide to honor King Kamehameha, unifier of the Hawaiian Kingdom.
July: Koloa Plantation Days (808-822-0734; koloaplantationdays.com). This nine-day festival celebrates the rich sugar industry history of Koloa.
Mid-to late August: Admissions Day, statewide. On the third Friday in August, all islands celebrate the day Hawai‘i became the 50th state.
TOP 10 IDEAS FOR REPEAT VISITORS
Hike at Koke‘e State Park
Kayak the Hanalei River
Snorkel at Ke‘e Beach
Gallery hop on Hanapepe Art Nights
Paddle into the Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge
Indulge your senses at ANARA Spa
Tour Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens
Hike 2 more miles of the Kalalau Trail
Dine at hole-in-the-walls in Lihu‘e
Learn to surf in Hanalei Bay
September: Aloha Festivals (808-589-1771; alohafestivals.com), statewide.
Early December: Festival of Lights (808-828-0014), Lihu‘e. Crowds gather at the historic county building on Rice Street to witness this lighting ceremony at 6 PM on the first Friday of the month; a parade follows.