THE LIHU‘E AREA
Everyone flies into Lihu‘e, and almost everyone leaves fairly quickly. But those in the know return to the island’s commercial center for good local restaurants. While Lihu‘e hosts the local seat of government and Nawiliwili Harbor, it’s of interest to visitors because of Kalapaki Beach, the Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge, the Menehune Fishpond, and the informative Kaua‘i Museum.
Lihu‘e was built by the sugar industry, and vestiges of the past are still evident in the rusting hulk of the Lihu‘e Sugar Mill, in the undulating area sugarcane fields, and in the ancestors of Japanese and Filipino immigrant workers.
GETTING AROUND
By car: Rice Street is the main thoroughfare.
To See & Do
Exploring in no particular order.
KAUA‘I MUSEUM
Kaua‘i Museum (808-245-6931; kauaimuseum.org), 4428 Rice St., Lihu‘e. Open 9–4 weekdays, 10–4 Sat. This downtown museum, dedicated to telling the story of Kaua‘i and preserving the art and artifacts of Hawai‘i, consists of several galleries with changing exhibits. Basically it covers all the bases: geological, mythological, and cultural. Of course it touches on the all-important sugar industry, monarchy, and Captain Cook’s arrival in 1778. You can even watch an aerial film of the island, which is great if you can’t afford a helicopter ride. Back on solid ground, check out Ni‘ihau shell necklaces and human-hair leis, missionary quilts and carved koa containers, poi pounders and photographs, full-length capes and feather helmets. One building is dedicated to Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. Don’t miss the excellent gift shop. $7 adults, $5 seniors, $1 ages 6–12. Free on the first Sat. of every month.
MENEHUNE FISHPOND
Menehune Fishpond, Ni‘umalu Rd.; take Rice St. to Nawiliwili Rd. to Ni‘umalu Rd. Built by a race of industrious miniature people said to have lived here before the Polynesians arrived, this intricate fishpond has walls that are 4 feet thick and 5 feet high. Mullet are raised within its walls. The mysterious and playful stonemasons, who liked to work at night and indulged in taro and shrimp, were said to number about 75 in the late 1700s, but no one knows for sure.
SEVEN-DAY PERFECT-DAY PLANNER
These regional, hour-by-hour planners will get you started on how best to dip into the island. But a word of caution: If you try to do everything mentioned in the time alloted, you might not feel like you’re on a vacation. Use them merely as a guide.
A Perfect Day in the Lihu‘e Area & on the Coconut Coast
8:00
Eat banana pancakes at Ono Family Restaurant
9:30
Kayak the Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge
12:30
Check out Wailua Falls
1:15
Slurp saimin at Hamura’s Saimin
2:30
Sip a latte at Small Town Coffee
3:30
Swim at Lydgate State Park
5:30
Unwind with cocktails at Coconuts Island Style Grill
7:00
Eat super fresh fish at Hukilau Lanai
Kalapaki Beach. See Beaches.
Grove Farm Homestead Museum (808-245-3202), 4050 Nawiliwili Rd. Tours Mon., Wed., Thurs. at 10 and 1. This two-hour walking tour of one of the oldest plantations on Kaua‘i will give you a good historical overview of the sugar industry, immigrant workers, and plantation life. The 80-acre homestead was purchased in 1864 by George Wilcox, the son of a missionary who spun sugar into gold, and it stayed in the family until 1973. By beginning to use irrigation ditches and more modern steam plows, Wilcox revolutionized the sugar industry. $10 donation. Reservations required.
Lihu‘e Sugar Mill, corner of Hwy. 50 and Hwy. 51. Kaua‘i’s first sugar mill was built in 1836 and remained an economic force until the early 1990s.
Nawiliwili Harbor, Wa‘apa Rd. Passenger cruise ships, container ships, and the U.S. Navy all call at Kaua‘i’s principal port.
Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge. Accessible only by kayak, this refuge offers great endangered-bird-watching; look for blue herons and Hawaiian gallinules (the legendary latter is a nonmigratory and rather secretive bird that stands 13 inches and is graced with a red forehead). So utterly picturesque that Raiders of the Lost Ark was filmed here, the refuge feeds into Nawiliwili Harbor via the shallow Hule‘ia Stream. Take a meandering paddle alongside the junglelike shores lined with mangroves; you’ll feel richly rewarded.
Wailua Falls. From Kuhio Highway head north; turn left on Ma‘alo Road. Drive 4 miles until the road ends. Does this 100-foot waterfall look familiar? The producers of Fantasy Island found this gusher breathtaking enough to showcase it in the opening credits of the show. And even though much of the water has been rerouted for irrigation, it is still quite a sight.
Kipu Falls. See Zip Line Adventures, “The South Shore.”
Outdoor Activities
BIRD-WATCHING
See Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge under To See & Do.
FISHING
Charters in search of tuna and mahimahi are available out of Nawiliwili Harbor.
Deep Sea Fishing Kaua‘i (808-634-8589; deepseafishingkauai.com) and Kai Bear Sportfishing Carters (808-652-4556; kaibear.com) take people out on four-, six-and eight-hour charters. Prices run $149–319 per person, all the way into the thousands for private charters. Both companies offer rates for spectators (though it can be a choppy ride).
FITNESS CENTER
Kaua‘i Athletic Club (808-245-5381), 4370 Kukui Grove St., Lihu‘e. This full-service club offers day passes for $12.50.
DO YOU BELIEVE?
You may know something about fairies, leprechauns, and hobbits, but what do you know about the Menehune? These hairy, dwarflike creatures, said to be about 2 feet high (although some can be as small as 6 inches), have been known to erect large monuments in a single night by passing stones down a long line. Legend has it that a prince and princess commissioned the Menehune to build the famous Alekoko (“rippling blood”) Fishpond, better known as the Menehune Fishpond. Though the two royals were forbidden to watch the Menehune work, curiosity got the better of them. When night fell and they peeked at the toiling spirits, the pair was subsequently transformed into the two stone pillars visible on the ridge above the pond.
Scholars hypothesize that the Menehune could have been a different race that inhabited the islands before the Polynesians arrived, or perhaps an inferior social class.
Even to this day, one can invoke the hardworking Menehune’s presence. It’s often done at wedding feasts or at large parties, in a prayer that the work can be done in a single night while all humans are fast asleep. But to make this work, you have to clap your hands and really believe. (I’ve been clapping so much while writing this book that my palms are sore.)
THE SWEET SMELL OF SUGAR SUCCESS?
With over 40 varieties of wild sugarcane (ko) from which to choose, ancient Hawaiian families and tribes found plenty to do with the sweet sticks that grew on the islands. They used the plants for everything from medicine and baby food to aphrodisiacs and toothbrushes.
In 1835 King Kamehameha III granted permission to Ladd & Co. to convert over 1,000 acres of land into a sugar plantation, the first such lease of its kind granted to outsiders. William Hooper, who was only 26 years old at the time, was sent to establish the plantation in Koloa with the help of 25 kanakas (Native Hawaiians). Thanks to lush soil and plenty of rain, wild sugarcane was already prevalent in Koloa, so Hooper knew it would be a good area for cultivating this increasingly valuable commodity. Clearing land was backbreaking work for the kanakas, who had to move from their coastal villages. Among other things, it involved dragging plows, drilling soil with ‘o‘o (digging sticks), and crushing cane.
In a mere four years the plantation had grown to employ 100 kanakas, who were paid with coupons that could only be redeemed at the company store. Women sugar boilers were paid 6¢ a day, which was less than half the wage of the men. Not willing to act as virtual slaves for sugar plantation owners, many Hawaiians became frustrated and disgruntled and started to ignore their duties. Dissatisfied with the work of the kanakas, Ladd & Co. began employing Chinese immigrants. It soon became standard at plantations to house different races of people separately.
Ladd & Co. went bankrupt soon thereafter, but sugar production on the site continued until 2000. When you’re in Koloa, look for a ruined chimney with a commemorative plaque just north of town. It’s all that remains of the original sugar mill.
SUGAR MILL
Coinciding with the end of sugar production, Steve Case, of AOL fame, started buying up Grove Farm’s sugar land (and their debt). Is it because his grandfather was Grove Farm’s moneyman that he needed to buy this ailing Kaua‘i land? Whatever the case, he now owns a bunch of acreage in Lihu‘e, on the southwest side, and the land leading up to the sacred Maha‘ulepu Beach.
GOLF
Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course (808-245-5061 or 1-800-634-6400; kauailagoonsgolf.com), Kalapaki Beach, Lihu‘e. This newly renovated, Jack Nicklaus–designed Kaua‘i Kiele Championship Course weaves along sheer cliffs and across 40 acres of freshwater lagoons. Greens fees for Kiele cost $175 and drop to $125 after noon. You can make reservations up to a month ahead of time.
KAYAKING
True Blue Island Adventures (808-245-9662; kauaifun.com), Nawiliwili Harbor. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, paddling up the Hule‘ia River with the wind at your back is a tranquil way to spend half a day. These folks lead morning kayaking tours (daily except Sun.) up through Hule‘ia National Wildlife Refuge to Papakolea Falls, where you’ll swim, eat lunch, and relax. Actual paddling time is about two and a half hours one-way before a 20-minute hike to the waterfall; then the outfitter will drive you back. $89 adults, $69 ages seven and older.
TENNIS
The Tennis Club at the Kaua‘i Lagoons (808-241-6000), on the grounds of the Kaua‘i Marriott, Lihu‘e. This place boasts a fancy tennis stadium and four courts for those who aren’t ready to take center stage. Court time $20 an hour.
Kaua‘i County Parks and Recreation Department. The islandwide recreation department maintains two lighted courts in Lihu‘e County Park located on Hardy St., Lihu‘e.
TUBING
Kaua‘i Backcountry Adventures (808-245-2506; kauaibackcountry.com), Lihu‘e. With exclusive access to the irrigation network of Lihu‘e’s once booming sugar industry, this crew will deposit you in an inner tube and slide you through Kaua‘i’s interior. Tours last three hours, head out four times daily, and run $100 a person. Children over five are welcome as long as they meet height and weight requirements (kids must be over 43 inches; adults can’t weigh more than 300 pounds).
Beaches
Kalapaki Beach. Park just beyond the front entrance of the Kaua‘i Marriott off Rice St. This quarter-mile crescent fronts the lavish Marriott and offers good swimming thanks to a sheltering jetty. Stunning views of the folded Haupu Ridge range are slightly marred (for me) by the commercial harbor activity. Still, it’s the best beach in the area. Small waves make for “okay” windsurfing; rental equipment is available on the beach. Facilities: lifeguard, showers, parking, restrooms.
Lodging
The main (and only) reason for staying in Lihu‘e is that it’s centrally located between the natural sights on the North and South Shores.
RESORTS
Kaua‘i Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808-245-5050 or 1-800-220-2925; marriott.com), 3610 Rice St. Just a mile from the airport (and thus within the flight path of air traffic), this waterfront resort is great for families and those dividing their time between the North and South Shores. Equal parts time-share and full-service resort, the Marriott began life as a lavish, fantastical Westin in the late 1980s. But in 1992, Hurricane Iniki practically wiped it off the face of Kaua‘i. Although you still have to descend an elevator to the lobby (which feels disconcerting), there are water features everywhere, including a 5-acre pool complete with whirlpools and waterfalls. If you don’t feel like lounging around the magnificent pool, the good Kalapaki Beach is within a sandal shuffle. As for the nicely appointed guest rooms, they have beach or garden views. Rates: $$$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 356 rooms and suites (plus 208 time-share units), the largest pool on Kaua‘i, located on good Kalapaki Beach, five restaurants, access to Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course, access to seven tennis courts (fee), excellent fitness center and day spa, water sport rentals, concierge, shops, children’s programs, parking (fee).
Hilton Kaua‘i Beach Hotel Resort (808-245-1955 or 1-888-805-3843; hilton.com), 4331 Kaua‘i Beach Dr. This Hilton is situated just 3 miles north of Lihu‘e (equidistant from Lihu‘e and Wailua) and perfect for those who can’t decide between the North and South Shores. From the plantation-style lobby to guest-room lanais (with mountain, ocean, or garden views), this beachfront resort always comes as a pleasant surprise to me. The guest rooms are fairly spacious, set in U-shaped low-rises that surround a sculpted pool with a (novel) sandy bottom, waterfalls, and an impressionistic fern grotto. Be sure to catch the complimentary afternoon mai tais, torch lighting, and Hawaiian music. Rates: $$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 350 rooms and suites, three pools, restaurant, adjacent to Wailua’s public golf course, four tennis courts (free), WiFi, resort fee (includes parking, Sunset Cocktail Party, torch-lighting ceremony and Polynesian dance show, local phone calls, and airport shuttle service).
KAUA‘I MARRIOTT RESORT & BEACH CLUB
MOTEL
Garden Island Inn (808-245-7227 or 1-800-648-0154; gardenislandinn.com), 3445 Wilcox Rd. This ultra-friendly, colorful low-rise motel is the perfect antidote to high-priced resort rooms. Top-of-the-line quarters (orchid rooms and suites) are spacious and have lanais with ocean views across the main street. (Road noises should die down just about the time you’ll want to go to sleep.) The best values are second-floor rooms, but all units are breezy, with original art on the walls. They also rent a couple of reasonably priced two-bedroom condos next door. Rates: rooms $–$$, two-bedrooms $$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 21 units with kitchenettes (condos have full kitchens), water sport equipment (free), across the street from Kalapaki Beach, A/C.
CONDOS
Kaha Lani Resort (808-822-9331 or 1-800-367-5004; castleresorts.com), 4460 Nehe Rd. This slightly remote oceanfront condo complex on the northern edge of Lydgate Beach Park rents one-to three-bedroom units perfect for families. I like the top-floor units because of their vaulted ceilings. Rates: $$$–$$$$; children free in parent’s rooms. Facilities and amenities: 74 units, pool, tennis courts (free), putting green, full kitchens, daily maid service, and free local phone calls.
Where to Eat
Dining here isn’t generally about gourmet food or romantic settings. Having said that, there are many good options to suit various moods. A few homey neighborhood places bear experimentation, as does the island’s best saimin joint. Unless otherwise noted, all eateries are located in Lihu‘e.
DINING OUT
Gaylord’s (808-245-9593; gaylordskauai.com), Kilohana Plantation, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Hwy. Open for all three meals daily, Sun. brunch. Housed in a former plantation manager’s estate and landlocked with distant views of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, the experience here is a tad on the formal side in terms of atmosphere (a candlelit flagstone patio), service, and cuisine (classic and Continental with a hint of Hawaiian influence). Lovely lunches revolve around salads, sandwiches, and lighter fare, while dinner tends toward rack of lamb, venison, and specialty ribs. Gaylord’s also puts on a popular Sunday brunch. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Breakfast buffet and lunch $$, dinner entrées $$$–$$$$, Sunday brunch $$$.
A PERFECT DAY FOR RELAXING
|
9:00 |
Chow down on all-you-can-eat brunch at Gaylord’s |
|
11:30 |
Schedule a massage at ANARA spa |
|
1:30 |
Bliss out in the Po‘ipu Beach sun for the afternoon |
|
4:30 |
Unwind with sunset cocktails at Brennecke’s |
|
7:00 |
Treat yourself to divine seafood at Tidepools |
Café Portofino (808-245-2121; cafeportofino.com), adjacent to the Kaua‘i Marriott, 3501 Rice St. Open for dinner daily. Locals and tourists alike are attracted by candlelit Italian dinners, a harpist strumming in tune with the waves, and the open-air setting above Kalapaki Beach. I always go for the vegetable pasta dishes because they’re sure to be fresh, unlike at a lot of other high-end spots. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Entrées $$$–$$$$.
Duke’s Canoe Club (808-246-9599; dukeskauai.com), adjacent to the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort & Beach Club on Kalapaki Beach, 3610 Rice St. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Paying homage to surfer Duke Kahanamoku with thematic décor, Duke’s is the funnest choice around. They’ve concocted a winning formula with myriad choices like mahi burgers, stir-fry cashew chicken, and an extensive salad bar. Personally, I always zero in on the daily-catch specials. The two-tiered, informal eatery features an indoor pond and waterfall, and a happenin’ bar downstairs. Come on by for late-afternoon Taco Tuesday, featuring $2.50 fish tacos and $3.25 draft beers. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Lunch $$, dinner entrées $$–$$$.
JJ’s Broiler (808-246-4422; jjsbroiler.com), Anchor Cove, 3146 Rice St. Open 11–11 daily. Overlooking Kalapaki Bay with great views, the open-air JJ’s is a lively and popular hangout for pupus (along the lines of potato skins and calamari), drinks, and burgers. I much prefer the downstairs bar to the upstairs Pacific Rim. JJ’s, by the way, is known for their Slavonic tenderloin. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Lunch $$, dinner entrées $$$.
EATING OUT
Hamura’s Saimin (808-245-3271), 2956 Kress St. Open for lunch and dinner daily. This diner-style eatery, complete with a U-shaped counter and swivel seats, dishes up the best bowls of steaming saimin on Kaua‘i. Period. (Their wontons and udon are also terrific.) This unadorned local landmark, said to serve 1,000 portions of saimin daily, features an entertaining open kitchen, but you may still prefer take-out. For those not interested in noodles, chicken satay and teriyaki provide good fallback options. Dishes $–$$; no credit cards.
A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON KAUA‘I’S LUSHNESS
Tip Top Café (808-245-2333), 3173 Akahi St. Open for all meals Tues.–Sun. Locals swear by this cafeteria filled with big gray booths. And for good reason. This is the place to try out local favorites like oxtail stew, saimin, or plate lunches at some of the lowest prices around. At night this spot becomes Sushi Katsu, serving up decently priced Japanese food, but lacking the local talk story that makes Tip Top so appealing. Dishes $–$$.
Barbecue Inn (808-245-2921), 2982 Kress St. (off Rice St.). Open for all three meals (closed midafternoon Mon.–Sat.). A fixture in the local community since the early 1940s, this joint has great specialty organic salads, makes its own breads and pies, and features Japanese-American dinner combos and plate lunches (with shrimp tempura, ribs, or Cajun seafood, for instance). I always gravitate toward the specials. Children’s menu. Breakfast $, lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$.
Kako’s (808-246-0404), 2980 Ewalu St. Open 10:30–1:30 Mon.–Sat. Formerly of the North Shore, this beloved phenom dispenses handmade broth and noodles (with barbecue chicken or teriyaki chicken strips) to appreciative patrons. They have incredibly cheap burgers, too. Dishes $; no credit cards.
Entertainment
Barefoot Bar at Duke’s Canoe Club (see Dining Out) has contemporary Hawaiian music on Aloha Friday evenings, when tropical drinks are served up at good prices. Open for drinks until midnight.
Selective Shopping
BOOKSTORE
Borders (808-246-0862; borders.com), Kukui Grove shopping center, Nawiliwili Rd. It’s conveniently located, just west of downtown, on your way to Po‘ipu. Open daily.
FARMER’S MARKET
Sunshine Market (808-241-6390), Vidinha Stadium, stadium parking lot, Ho‘olako Hwy. Held Fri. at 3.
SHOPPING CENTER
Kukui Grove (808-245-7784), Kaumuali‘i Hwy. Open daily. The island’s big mall has big-box retailers like Kmart and Sears, along with a grocery store.
SPECIAL SHOPS
Kaua‘i Museum Gift Shop (808-245-6931; kauaimuseum.org), 4428 Rice St. Open Mon.–Sat. This shop offers interesting prints, local arts and crafts, and great lauhala weavings.
Kaua‘i Products Store (808-246-6753), Kukui Grove shopping center, Kaumuali‘i Hwy. Open daily. Stop here for long-lasting seed leis, koa boxes, and other gift items. As for the quilts, they’ve been designed by locals but are made overseas.
Kilohana Plantation (808-245-5608; kilohanakauai.com), Kaumuali‘i Hwy. Open daily. One mile west of downtown and home to Gaylord’s (see Dining Out), this Tudor-style manse, which sits prettily on a former sugar plantation, houses a few galleries, a craft shop, and a clothing store.
