Hawaii

THE NORTH SHORE

You’ve heard the tourist-brochure hype before, the hype about “experiencing the Hawai‘i of your dreams.” Well, it’s true about the North Shore of Kaua‘i, and most specifically about Hanalei. Sandy crescent bays are backed by fluted and folded mountains. Stunningly verdant gorges are as gorgeously chiseled as Meryl Streep’s cheekbones. If the velvety cliffs of Bali Hai can lure even the hard-hearted from their self-imposed shells, imagine what can happen to full-fledged, self-proclaimed romantics. They (we) have a field day. Most of my travel-writer colleagues agree: The North Shore is among the top two or three favorite destinations in the whole state. Many movie celebrities and musicians agree; they’re secretly ensconced in digs all around here.

You have to admire Hanalei. On one of Hawai‘i’s loveliest bays, flanked by a spectacular landscape, the small town enjoys a setting that would be worth untold millions to developers. But Hanalei refuses to consider the possibility and even insists on maintaining the narrow, one-lane bridges on both sides of town that keep big tour buses away. If you want to get away from something or get back to yourself, there’s a patch of sand with your name on it here.

Down the road from Hanalei, Princeville is sometimes called “Haole-wood,” haole being the term for “Caucasian foreigner.” The modern, 11,000-acre development lacks native character, but so does most of Hawai‘i, from Hanalei’s perspective. Located on an expansive plateau that offers outrageous views of Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai, Princeville’s main claim to fame is 45 holes of golf, including two courses ranked by Golf Digest as being among the best in the state. The posh Princeville Resort is also known for notable views and dining.

While the weather is never predictable here, the winters can be stormy and cool, the summers often sunny. Spring and fall temperatures can fluctuate hour to hour. December and January receive the most rainfall. The old volcano and its nearby peaks and lush valleys are a glorious sight, but they wouldn’t be so stunning without the frequent rain.

The Na Pali Coast, established as a protected area in 1984, encompasses 6,500 acres of truly, madly, deeply, wildly rugged land. If you think of Kaua‘i as a pie, the Na Pali (“the cliffs”) area is like one giant wedge, really, whose crust runs from Polihale State Park in the west to Ke‘e Beach in the east. Koke‘e State Park offers high vantage points for peering into it. It’s a veritable Garden of Eden, the single most traditionally stunning place in Hawai‘i. You can’t drive through it (the road ends here), but you can sail around it (with or without cocktails in hand), helicopter over it, or hike through it. Whatever you do, do not miss exploring—however you can manage. The legendary and famed Kalalau Valley is simply the largest valley along the Na Pali Coast.

A PERFECT DAY ON THE NORTH SHORE

7:00	Hike the first 2 miles of the Kalalau Trail
10:30	Snorkel at Ke‘e Beach State Park
12:00	Enjoy falafels at Mediterranean Gourmet
1:30	Explore the lush Limahuli Garden
4:00	Take a quick dip in Hanalei Bay
5.30	Sip mai tais at the Princeville Resort
7:00	Delight in fish and pasta at La Cascata
9:30	Head to Hanalei Gourmet for brews and live music

The North Shore offers exceptional birding, lazy kayaking, high-yield hiking, a choice of superlative botanical gardens, and great swimming and snorkeling at many of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Then there’s that indescribable, end-of-the-road, end-of-the-universe quality about the place. It’s so rare. It appeals to my quiet, lazy, escapist side. I figure if it’s good enough for Puff the Magic Dragon to live here by the sea, I, too, could frolic in the autumn mist in a land called Hanalei—for weeks on end.

GETTING AROUND

By car: Hwy. 56 (aka Kuhio Highway) morphs into the smaller Hwy. 560 beyond Princeville, when the road changes dramatically. From here to Ke‘e Beach, the road hugs the shoreline and offers breathtaking beach views that alternate with peaceful pasturelands and majestic mountain peaks. One-lane bridges are common. If someone is already on the bridge or approaching it, pull over and wait your turn. (Local custom says if there is a line of cars waiting across the bridge and you are the fifth car to cross, that’s when you should stop.)

KILAUEA POINT LIGHTHOUSE

TOURS

By land: North Shore Cab Tours (808-639-7829), Hanalei. These three-hour North Shore tours include plenty of history, myths, and legends. Call for pickup at area lodging places. $60 per hour, up to six passengers.

To See & Do

Exploring east to west

Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens (808-828-0525; naainakai.org), makai, 4101 Wailapa Rd., before MM 21, Kilauea. Open for guided tours (only) 9:30–1:30 Tues.–Fri. More than a mere botanical garden, this one-of-a-kind creative endeavor stretches for 240 acres and offers a unique blend of flora, fauna, and visual art. (There are over 60 bronze sculptures scattered around.) Great for gardeners and nongardeners alike, it has 12 diverse gardens with hardwoods, orchards, carnivorous plants, and orchids. There’s even a great children’s area, a path to the ocean, fountains, a teahouse, a maze, and gazebos. Tours: one and a half hours $25; three hours $35; five hours with lunch $70; make advance reservations.

Kilauea, makai, Hwy. 56. This former plantation town, which has recently turned to raising prawns as a source of livelihood, has an old general store (the Kong Lung Co.) dating to 1892, lots of fresh fruit stands worth a detour, two little churches, a highly creditable but tiny cluster of shops and eateries, and a 1913 lighthouse atop a wildlife preserve. Take some time to poke around a bit.

Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge (808-828-0168), Kilauea Rd., makai, 1 mile north of Kilauea off Hwy. 56. Open 10–4 daily. This 200-acre seabird sanctuary is home to the largest concentration of rare and endangered birds on any major Hawaiian island. The rocky cliffside juts out onto a promontory, where, with a bit of luck, you’ll probably spot frigates, albatross (which rarely alight on land), nene, shearwaters, and boobies. With binoculars, you might see offshore seals, dolphins, and wintertime whales. $3 adults, free ages 16 and under.

Anini Beach County Park. See Beaches.

Princeville, makai, off Hwy. 56. Once a sugar plantation, this sprawling estate was bought in the 1890s by Albert Wilcox, who converted the highlands for cattle ranching and the lowlands for rice farming. Today the manicured, cliffside enclave is the most exclusive on Kaua‘i.

Queen’s Bath. See Hiking.

Hanalei Valley Lookout, mauka, Hwy. 56. Even if you’ve started to bypass scenic turnouts because you’ve become too jaded by Hawai‘i’s beauty (shame on you), stop here. Arguably the single most easily accessible, watercolor-like stop on Kaua‘i, this roadside parking area peers down onto a patchwork of taro fields and a wildlife refuge. Bisected by the meandering Hanalei River and flanked by spirelike mountains, the patterned, abstract fields look to be colored with 20 shades of green crayons. Until the early 1900s these fields were filled with rice farmed by Chinese immigrants.

Hanalei Bridge, Hwy. 56. Built in 1912, this creaky, decrepit, one-lane steel truss bridge is the precarious—and only—link between Princeville and Hanalei.

Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, mauka, off Ohiki Rd. from Hwy. 560. This 900-acre refuge, home to endangered migrating shorebirds and waterfowl, is closed to the public, but you can drive down the dirt road that veers left from the other side of the Hanalei Bridge. It runs alongside the fields, passes an old rice mill, and yields great open views. I’ll never forget parking here for hours under the light of a full moon, watching two owls hunt.

Hanalei, Hwy. 560. One of the first places in Hawai‘i settled by Polynesians, Hanalei was transformed from a swampy area into fertile farmland because of savvy irrigation systems. This funky town, once a happenin’ hippie paradise in the 1970s, is still counterculture at its core. Feel like dropping out? Drop in here. Whether you’re here to rest hard or to play hard—try hiking, kayaking, and surfing—you may never want to leave. Full of shops and delightful eateries, Hanalei has a spirit all its own. Picture-postcard-perfect Hanalei, by the way, simply means “crescent bay.” For a real slice of local life, head down to Hanalei Pier on the weekend (take Aku Road off Hwy. 560 and turn right onto Weke Road). The area is called “Black Pot” locally because, in the olden days, locals would hang out at the beach park all day, cooking up dishes to share from black pots.

THE ONLY ROUTE INTO HANALEI CROSSES THIS BRIDGE.

Hanalei Beach Park. See Beaches.

Waioli Church and Mission House Museum, mauka, Hwy. 560, Hanalei. Tours Mon., Wed., and Thurs., 10 and 1. Two missionary teachers from Connecticut, Abner and Lucy Wilcox, moved to this tidy house in 1837. A guided tour will give you a great idea of what life was like in this remote location. Unlike most other missionaries’ homes, this two-story house utilizes local materials. The house boasts simple koa furniture, ‘ohi‘a floors, and a lava-rock chimney. (The Wilcoxes’ son George went on to amass a fortune and name for himself in the sugar industry.) Free.

TOP SEVEN BEACHES ON KAUA‘I

For Swimming & Sunbathing

Po‘ipu Beach Park (The South Shore)

Anini Beach County Park (The North Shore)

For Sunsets

Hanalei Beach Park (The North Shore)

Tunnels Beach (The North Shore)

For Families

Salt Pond Beach (West Kaua‘i)

Anini Beach County Park (The North Shore)

For Walking

Maha‘ulepu Beach (The South Shore)

Polihale State Park (West Kaua‘i)

For All-Around Water Sports

Po‘ipu Beach Park (The South Shore)

Hanalei Beach Park (The North Shore)

Lumahai Beach, makai, between MM 4 and 5 on Hwy. 560. The beach—made famous in South Pacific by Mitzi Gaynor washing that man right out of her hair—is difficult to reach, but there is a steep trail down. If you make the effort, limit your activity to strolling, picnicking, and suntanning rather than swimming since the currents are tricky here.

Ha‘ena, Hwy. 560. Less a town than a 4-mile stretch of road, Ha‘ena is marked by beautiful bays, gardens, vest-pocket beaches, lagoons, and good snorkeling and surfing. The current boundaries of Ha‘ena State Park encompass land originally owned by Elizabeth Taylor’s brother Hugh. In the 1970s, more than 50 hippies started hanging out on his land, building shelters and getting rather out of hand (even in a place known for tolerance). So the state purchased the land, forced them out, and set it aside as a park.

“WASH THAT MAN RIGHT OUTTA YOUR HAIR” AT LUMAHAI BEACH

Tunnels Beach. See Beaches.

Ha‘ena Beach Park. See Beaches.

Maniniholo Dry Cave, mauka, Hwy. 560, across from Ha‘ena State Park. This grotto was a place of worship in ancient times.

Limahuli Garden (808-826-1053; ntbg.org), mauka, located 0.25 mile from Ke‘e Beach, Ha‘ena. Open 9:30–4 Tues.–Sat. This ultralush National Tropical Botanical Garden, located on 17 acres of serpentine paths, has terraced steps lined with taro. While it will keep serious botanists and herbalists enthralled (it’s a veritable encyclopedia of information), it’s also quite appealing for laypeople. The staff is devoted to preserving the habitat of native plants once abundant in this region—plants used for medicine, clothing, shelter, and food. The stream that runs through it even supports endangered freshwater fish. Be prepared for mosquitoes and slippery paths. Self-guided tours: $15 adults; guided tours $25; both tours free ages 12 and under.

TERRACES AT LIMAHULI GARDEN

Waikapalae and Waikanaloa Wet Caves, mauka, Hwy. 560, just before MM 10; it is a short climb to one of the caves. It’s suggested that Pele hollowed out these depressions. Whatever you believe, it’s best not to swim in them.

A SISTER AND A CHIEF

One of the most famous stories about Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess, takes place near Ke‘e Beach. Although there are many different versions of the story, they all involve Pele’s sister, Hi‘iaka, and the Kaua‘ian chief, Lohi‘au.

Pele, it’s said, sometimes sent her spirit wandering through the islands while she was asleep. One night she came upon a group of sacred hula dancers, including Lohi‘au. Instantly attracted to him, Pele morphed herself into a beautiful mortal woman and seduced him. Knowing that her actual body was awakening far away on Kilauea, Pele promised to come back for him.

At home in Kilauea Crater, Pele blessed her sister Hi‘iaka with magical powers and sent her off to fetch Lohi‘au. Hi‘iaka passed through many trials. Often relying on her magic to defeat mo‘o (giant lizards) and other creatures, Hi‘iaka reached Lohi‘au’s home.

But Hi‘iaka was too late. Lohi‘au had already hanged himself with grief, having pined away for Pele. So Hi‘iaka caught his free-floating soul and pushed it back into his body through a slit in his toe. After he was revived, they set off for Kilauea.

But Lohi‘au was shocked when he finally saw Pele’s bodily form, for she was a wizened crone. He was instead drawn to Hi‘iaka’s beauty, and they fell in love.

Although touched by the man’s longing, Hi‘iaka had fully intended to fulfill her mission and bring Lohi‘au to Kilauea. But Pele was a jealous spirit, and she soon began to burn while imagining Hi‘iaka in Lohi‘au’s arms. In a fury, the volcano goddess killed Hi‘iaka’s best friend (the poet Hopoe) and scorched Hi‘iaka’s lovely gardens.

Filled with desperation and loss, Hi‘iaka and Lohi‘au made love. Pele then burned the man to death but could not destroy her immortal sister. Hi‘iaka descended to the underworld to free Lohi‘au’s soul and brought him back to Kaua‘i, where he purified himself by surfing at Ke‘e Beach.

It’s said that the rock formations on the nearby cliffs are remnants of the giant creatures Hi‘iaka killed on her magical journey, and also that Lohi‘au’s grave is above Waikapalae wet cave.

Ke‘e Beach State Park. See Beaches.

Ke Ahu a Laka (and Ka Ulu a Pa‘oa), on the west side and above Ke‘e Beach. The most important hula halau in Hawai‘i took place here, at these separate sacred sites that sit at the base of a cliff in a clearing on a hillside. (The path is unmarked and overgrown but still manageable.) On the upper level, or platform, an altar to Laka, the goddess of hula, is often draped with revered leis, vines, and kapa from students and devotees making the important pilgrimage. The mana is quite palpable here to those who are quiet; please be respectful.

Spas

Princeville Health Club & Spa (808-826-5030; princeville.com), Princeville Resort Kaua‘i, Princeville. I’d happily pay $20 a day to work out here simply for the views. (But golfers at Princeville can enjoy the extensive health club facilities for free.) The spa offers most treatments imaginable.

Outdoor Activities

BICYCLING

Pedal ’n Paddle (808-826-9069; pedalnpaddle.com), Ching Young Village, Hanalei. Open 9–6 daily. Cruise Kaua‘i’s stunning North Shore on a mountain bike or, better yet, rent a tandem for tooling around Princeville. Locks and helmets included. Rentals $12–20 daily, $50–80 weekly.

BIRD-WATCHING

See Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge under To See & Do.

BOAT EXCURSIONS

The surf is calmest in spring and summer; excursions are prone to cancellation in winter due to rough surf conditions. Outfitters will let you know what’s happening on any given day. Trips have the added bonus of dolphin and sea turtle sightings.

Except for Captain Sundown Catamaran Ku‘uipo (808-826-5585, captainsundown.com), Hanalei, most trips around the Na Pali Coast depart out of Port Allen (see “West Kaua‘i”). When the sea is manageable (which isn’t as often as you might hope in winter), this Native Hawaiian crew takes you on a five-hour catamaran tour. Though they pride themselves in being the only outfit to depart from Hanalei, you must call for a weather check at 7 AM because occasionally you’ll have to depart from Lihu‘e. The five-hour tours include snorkeling, lunch, and fishing lines. Costs are $120–138 adults; $99–120 children 7–12; no children under 7; no trips on Sunday. Book your trip early in your stay so that if it gets canceled, there’s time to reschedule.

TARO FIELDS NEAR HANALEI

TAKE THE ONE LESS TRAVELED BY

Nothing beats hiking the Na Pali Coast for experiencing the natural splendor of Hawai‘i. Part of what makes it glorious is that no road cuts through here. It is pristine wilderness, home to more than 120 rare and endangered plant species, golden monarch butterflies, and long-plumed tropical birds. If you need a visual image, think Jurassic Park, which was filmed here. How to enjoy it? The untouched expanse of wilderness is accessible only via an ancient footpath: the rigorous, 22-mile (round-trip) Kalalau Trail that leads to Kalalau Valley.

But what if you’re not an experienced backpacker? You’re still in luck. The first mile of the trail, which is uphill, actually affords the most impressive views. Still, though, you can’t be a novice hiker, and it’s best if you don’t suffer from vertigo (a few parts of the path are no wider than a foot, with scary vertical drops). Still feel left out? At least walk to the top of the first bend in the trail, 400 feet above the ocean; the expansive views of Lumahai Beach will remain with you for a long time. I’ve never met anyone who was disappointed by the effort they made.

ALONG THE KALALAU TRAIL

A few more particulars before setting out for the day: bring plenty of water (even if you’re hiking only 1 mile), gobs of mosquito repellent, sunscreen, an adventurous spirit, and sturdy shoes that will stand up to mud. It’s always slippery and covered in loose rocks. The trail is best hiked in summer, when it’s driest. It’s downright tough mid-Oct.–mid-May.

It takes about four hours (round-trip) to hike the first section to Hanakapi‘ai Beach (no permit required). Set out early; in addition to enjoying cooler temperatures, you’ll avoid the crowds as the day wears on. After the first uphill mile, you’ll wind down into a lush valley, hop over several streams, and descend to Hanakapi‘ai Beach. Do not be lulled into challenging the ocean here! This lovely beach is one of the most deadly in Kaua‘i. Large signs warn people about rough swimming conditions and list those who’ve died in swimming accidents since 1995. Because of currents and the fact that there is no reef, it can even be dangerous to wade at the shoreline. Most folks turn around here.

Head another 2 miles (one-way) inland to the striking Hanakapi‘ai Falls: quintessential Hawai‘i. Ripe guavas litter this section of the slippery trail, which is lined with groves of wild ginger and home to hundreds of exotic birds. Allow another three hours for this stretch, plus some time if you swim beneath the 120-foot waterfall. If you do take a dip, pick some wild ginger (which looks like red beehives on the top of a long, narrow stem) and wash your hair in the falls. It feels pretty exotic. Squeeze the clear, sticky, sweet-smelling liquid from each of the fist-sized flowers and then suds up.

The remainder of the trail requires a permit and leads deep into Kalalau Valley. It’s the most strenuous hike in Hawai‘i—even for the most experienced hikers and serious backpackers. Because of erosion, the treacherous-feeling trail can be a mere 10 inches wide in places, with dizzying 1,000-foot sheer drops into the ocean. Attempt this trail only in summer when it’s dry. During winter, portions of the trail disappear, and flash floods are dangerous. For more information about camping and hiking permits, contact the Department of Lands and Natural Resources (808-274-3444; kauaihawaii.com). Or request a permit by writing to 3060 Eiwa St. (Room 306), Lihu‘e, HI 96766.

GOLF

Makai Courses (808-826-3581; princeville.com), Princeville. Easily Kaua‘i’s best course, and one of the hardest in the state, these 27 holes consist of Makai Ocean, Makai Woods, and Makai Line—all of which take in the best of Princeville’s natural surroundings. Greens fees run $175 but drop to $95 after 1:30 PM, and then to $50 after 3 PM. You can make reservations up to 30 days in advance.

Prince Course (808-826-5001; princeville.com), Princeville. This Robert Trent Jones Jr. masterpiece is Kaua‘i’s most difficult, but the frustration and pain are lessened by fabulous ocean views. Greens fees are $200 and drop to $125 at noon, and then to $70 at 3 PM. You can make reservations up to 30 days in advance.

HIKING

Kalalau Trail, Na Pali Coast State Park, trailhead at Ke‘e Beach. (See Take the One Less Traveled By.) Because the Kalalau Valley provided plentiful fresh water, natural terracing for taro planting, and natural protection from adjacent-valley invaders, this area was probably settled as early as the late 900s A.D. Ancient heiaus are scattered throughout the valley, as are historic home sites. During more recent times, up until the 1920s, the valley supported coffee and taro harvesting. And in the late 1970s, the state came through and swept out hippies who’d set up camp here.

Queen’s Bath. Take Ka Haku Road, turn right on Punahele Road, and look for a dirt parking lot on the right where the trail begins. This hike should not be attempted in winter. But during other seasons, if the skies have been clear for a couple days and the sea is mellow, this hike will deposit you at a lava-rock ocean pool.

HORSEBACK RIDING

Princeville Ranch Stables (808-826-6777; princevilleranch.com), Hwy. 56, just east of the Princeville entrance, near MM 27, Princeville. Trips daily. This working cattle ranch provides several guided rides, as well as an opportunity to help with a cattle drive at dawn. One look at the majestic views of Bali Hai and the Hanalei Mountains from this verdant valley ranch, and you’ll know you’re not in Kansas anymore. The midday waterfall and picnic trip, which crosses an open prairie and lasts three or four hours (with most of it spent in the saddle), includes a short hike to an 80-foot waterfall where you can swim and have lunch. $125–135; children must be eight or older; book one week in advance.

KAYAKING

The Hanalei River, which meanders through the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, makes for a perfectly lazy paddle. Its relative stillness means it’s great for folks of all ages and abilities. You’ll be lulled into submission with the mountains as a backdrop and taro patches and rare birds in the foreground.

Kayak Kaua‘i (808-826-9844; kayakkauai.com), Hwy. 560, Hanalei. Open daily. The only outfitter with a private dock on the river, these folks offer rental sea kayaks ($42–65 daily) and guided three-hour snorkeling and kayak tours ($60).

Pedal ’n Paddle (808-826-9069; pedalnpaddle.com), Ching Young Village, Hanalei. Open 9–6 daily. These single ($20 daily) and double ($40 daily) kayaks can be used only on the nearby Hanalei River, which is fine since it’s the best place around. If you’re worried about scratching your rental car when transporting the kayak, use their Styrofoam rack.

SURFING

Remember, Hanalei in wintertime is reserved for the pros.

Windsurf Kaua‘i (808-828-6838), Anini Beach, Hanalei. Always wanted to try windsurfing? These folks will teach you on a stretch of beach that’s protected by an ocean reef with plenty of wind to get you going. The rest—that is, staying upright—is up to you. Beginner’s lessons are held weekdays at 9 and 1 ($85 per person for three hours). Rentals are $25 per hour, $75 for a half day.

Hanalei Surf Company (808-826-9000; hanaleisurf.com), Hwy. 560, Hanalei, rents boards for $20 a day.

TENNIS

Princeville Racquet Club (808-826-1230; princeville.com), Princeville Resort Kaua‘i. Open 9–4:30 daily. The facility has six hard courts that rent for $12 per person and offers a women’s clinic Sat. morning for $15.

Beaches

In order of preference.

In general, it’s too rough for wintertime swimming.

Hanalei Beach Park (including Waioli Beach Park). From Hwy. 560 turn makai on Aku Road, then right on Weke Road. No beach in Hawai‘i enjoys a better location. This magnificent half crescent is 2 miles wide and reaches 1 mile inland from the open ocean. With all this space for folks to spread out, it never feels crowded (except around the pier on weekends). For swimming, snorkeling, bodyboarding, and kayaking, the water is calmest around the pier; windsurfing is best left to those with prior experience. While there can be strong currents in the bay, swimming is generally okay year-round. Do keep an eye on things, though. Facilities: restrooms, showers, lifeguard.

Ke‘e Beach State Park, about 7.5 miles from Hanalei, at the end of Hwy. 560. If your jaw isn’t dropping here, check your pulse. Thanks to an offshore lagoon reef, the underwater snorkeling is great, but the unspoiled view above the water is pretty spectacular, too. Facilities: restrooms, showers, parking.

Tunnels Beach. At MM 8.5, turn makai onto a dirt road off Hwy. 560. Few places rival Tunnels for watching the sunset as an ever-changing palette of pastels sweeps across the dusky sky. And although I’m loath to use “picture-perfect” again, it really is. Quieter than its next-door neighbor, Ha‘ena, this well-protected beach offers good swimming and snorkeling year-round. (It’s always advisable to check surf conditions in winter before playing in the water, though.) Windsurfing is best left to those with experience. Facilities: none, but a stand of ironwood trees provides nice shade.

HA‘ENA BEACH PARK

Anini Beach County Park. From Hwy. 56, turn onto Kalihiwai Rd. between MM 25 and 26, and then turn left on Anini Beach Rd. The place where the puka shell necklace craze began is still good for shelling. The 3-mile, golden-white beach is protected by a 2-mile reef, so it’s good for beginner snorkelers, intimidated swimmers, and novice windsurfers. The azure lagoon couldn’t be prettier; if you haven’t lounged on a South Seas beach in this lifetime, consider it done. Facilities: restrooms, shower, barbecue, picnic, parking, camping.

Ha‘ena Beach Park, MM 8 off Hwy. 560. Across from the caves, this beach offers excellent swimming and snorkeling in summer. Facilities: restrooms, showers, parking, camping, picnic, barbecue.

Lodging

The planned community of Princeville has two resorts and an assortment of condos. But as you might expect, lodging is severely limited in Hanalei. All accommodations up here are surrounded by Kaua‘i’s dramatic beauty and are near the Na Pali Coast, but the closer you get to Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, the more likely you are to get showers.

RESORTS

Princeville Resort Kaua‘i (808-826-9644 or 1-800-826-4400; princevillehotelhawaii.com), 5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville. Somewhere in the world there must be a resort hotel that rivals the Princeville for spectacular views, but no place in Hawai‘i comes close. Sloping down a bluff above perfect Hanalei Bay, tumbling toward peaks popularly known as Bali Hai, this hotel enjoys absolutely sublime ocean and mountain vistas. The hotel’s unusual physical structure ensures that water views are optimized. Built in a series of tiers, the building descends rather than ascends and thus does not overpower the setting. The only drawback is that some guests have to take a couple of elevators and a short hike to reach the beach (itself a bit gravelly—but perfect for surveying the scenery). At press time, a gigantic renovation (slated for six months, but still going 12 months later) was morphing this palace of grandeur from a Starwood property to a St. Regis. Knowing what this property was before the renovation, I have full confidence recommending it to you. Just breathing the regal air is sure to make you want to stay. If you decide to stay elsewhere (especially if you want consistently sunny winter weather), at least drop by for a sunset cocktail. As Hawaiian musicians strum and the sun sinks majestically into the Pacific, casting a warm red glow on Bali Hai, the magical moment is bound to bring you back for more. Rates: $$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 242 rooms and suites, oceanside pool, beach (good swimming), three restaurants (including La Cascata, see Dining Out), two golf courses, tennis courts (fee), health club and spa, water sport rentals, concierge, shops, children’s programs, parking (fee).

Hanalei Bay Resort (808-826-6522 or 1-800-827-4427; hanaleibayresort.com), 5380 Hono‘iki Rd., Princeville. A 22-acre resort that shares the same stunning location as its upscale neighbor, the Princeville, this excellent resort is simply less expensive, less pretentious, and a bit farther from the ocean. In my mind, though, it’s perhaps easier to savor the sublime and breathtaking grandeur here. Guest rooms are spread across a bluff above Hanalei Bay in a variety of low-rise buildings. Shuttles (which can take a while to arrive) haul guests around the expansive grounds and even to the beach below. (It’s a steep walk.) Many guests, though, don’t wander farther than the attractive pool, a free-form lagoonlike place fed by two waterfalls. The studios with kitchenettes and spacious one-bedroom quarters are, in general, handsomely furnished, ideal for longer stays and families (as well as couples). All rooms have lanais, but the ocean-view quarters provide a particularly good perspective of the sea. This is also a time-share resort. Rates: $$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 236 rooms and one-bedroom suites, two pools, beach (good swimming), two restaurants (see Bali Hai, Dining Out), kitchens or kitchenettes, eight free tennis courts, water sport rentals, concierge, parking (free).

CONDOS

HANALEI COLONY RESORT

HANALEI BAY RESORT

Hanalei Colony Resort (808-826-6235 or 1-800-628-3004; hcr.com), 5-7130 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. This beachfront condo complex, about five minutes west of Hanalei village, offers the only accommodations in this scenic neighborhood other than a few vacation rental homes. It sits alone on a striking beach, one that is too rocky for swimming but splendid for romantic strolls. The 13 low-rise buildings, some arrayed along the shore, contain four apartments each. Décor is seaside simple—what you would want in a basic hideaway cabin along any coast. Both bedrooms open onto the living room with louvered doors, giving the unit more of a studio feel than a traditional two-bedroom feel. Bathrooms and kitchens are smallish but completely fine. For my money the oceanfront condos are worth the added expense, especially the ones called premium oceanfront. These are virtually the only accommodations directly on the sea on Kaua‘i’s North Coast. And these are a bargain for Hawai‘i. A swimming pool, barbecue gazebo, and guest laundry are grouped at the rear of the grounds. Rates: $$$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room; five-night minimum; seventh night free. Facilities and amenities: 48 condos, pool, beach (great for sunning and strolling but not for swimming), the Mediterranean Gourmet restaurant (see Eating Out) concierge, activity desk, children’s programs during summer, parking (fee), no A/C, no phones, no TVs.

BED & BREAKFASTS AND INNS

Hale Ho‘o Maha (808-826-7083 or 1-800-851-0291; aloha.net/~hoomaha), 7083 Alamihi Rd., Hanalei. The energetic hosts of this B&B attract an international crowd. As such, guests often end up swapping travel tales in the hot tub, over breakfast, or in the shared BBQ area. The Asian and Polynesian décor, the endless supply of books, and the general feeling of being holed up in a remote house on stilts (close to Hanalei, but just far enough away) make this a terrific option. Rates: $$; no children under seven. Facilities and amenities: four suites, close to beach, expanded continental breakfast, no A/C, hot tub, access to Internet.

Hanalei Inn (808-826-9333; hanaleiinn.com), 5-5468 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Even though these clean rooms have kitchenettes, A/C, and a reasonable amount of space for the price, this motel still reminds me of a hostel. With darkish rooms, a shared outside space with a soda machine and a hammock, and a few cats, the Hanalei Inn is one of the cheaper spots on the North Shore. And it’s the only inn in Hanalei. They also rent a room and a couple apartments a block from Hanalei Bay for a bit more money. Rates: $$. Facilities and amenities: five studios, two one-bedroom apartments, walk to beach, A/C.

CONDOS

Pu‘a Po‘a (808-245-8841 or 1-800-367-5025; kauaivacationrentals.com), 5454 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville. Ahhhh! This is the ultimate luxe condo complex in Princeville. Located next to the Princeville Resort, perched on a cliff, and overlooking Bali Hai, these units are best suited to people who don’t want to leave the condo. Ever. Windows stretch from floor to ceiling (except for the bedrooms); the private lanais are as big as most hotel rooms; and owners generally have stellar decorating taste. Rates: $$$; three-to five-night minimum; cleaning fee. Facilities and amenities: 56 two-bed-room condos, pool, close to beach, kitchen, some units have free WiFi.

Pali Ke Kua (808-245-8841 or 1-800-367-5025; kauaivacationrentals.com), 5300 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville. This is an excellent condo option for families or two couples. These one-and two-bedroom units are spacious, situated on the cliffs overlooking Bali Hai, and still have an old Hawai‘i feel about them. Book early; these popular condos sell out fast. Rates: $$–$$$; three-to five-night minimum; cleaning fee. Facilities and amenities: 96 condos, pool, trail to beach, kitchen, some units have free WiFi.

Sealodge (808-826-6585 or 1-800-222-5541; oceanfrontrealty.com), 3700 Kamehameha Rd., Princeville. These one-and two-bedroom condos are a steal for the location. Set atop the Princeville cliffs, most units might not give expansive ocean views (and can be dark), but walk a few feet and you’ll feel as regal as the folks who forked over the big bucks to stay at the Princeville. Rates: $–$$; three-night minimum; cleaning fee. Facilities and amenities: 86 condos, pool, kitchen, hiking trail to beach.

COTTAGES

Aloha Sunrise & Sunset Inn (808-828-1100 or 1-888-828-1008; kauaisunrise.com), 4899-A Waiakalua Rd., Kilauea. If you care where you stay, stay here. Seriously. This 10-acre farm, complete with an organic vegetable garden, offers two cottages furnished in a relaxed vintage-1940s Hawaiian style. Although the two-story cottage is attached to the owner’s residence, it still feels private. Rates: $$, cleaning fee; not appropriate for children. Facilities and amenities: no A/C, no credit cards.

Secret Beach Hideaway (808-828-2862 or 1-800-820-2862; secretbeachhawaii.com), 2884 Kauapea Rd., Kilauea. Set on 11 gated acres near the Kilauea Lighthouse, these three jewel-like cottages are as magical as the setting high atop an oceanfront plateau. Trails zigzag from the cottages through maturing botanical gardens down to Secret Beach. Each of the 500-square-foot cottages is beautifully appointed with top-of-the-line amenities: everything from Gaggenau appliances and 500-thread-count sheets to teak lanai furniture and marble bathrooms. Every inch of the contents was custom-made on Kaua‘i by highly skilled craftspeople. Hale Lani has wonderfully soothing Japanese overtones; Hale Nanea has great views of Bali Hai; and Hale Ke Aloha, the most secluded, is best positioned for taking in sunsets. Rates: $$$$; $200–300 cleaning fee. Facilities and amenities: private paths to beach, no A/C.

VACATION RENTALS

Hanalei North Shore Properties (808-448-3336; hanaleinorthshoreproperties.com), Princeville. This outfit represents some of the best condo and vacation rental listings on the North Shore. Listing over 60 properties, these agents generally guarantee stocked kitchens, a TV, and washers and dryers; some units have A/C and WiFi. Straight shooters, HNSP has been up to this for over 30 years. No credit cards; cleaning fees.

Pure Kaua‘i (808-828-0380 or 1-866-457-7873; purekauai.com), Kilauea. Favored by celebs and people who want some serious pampering, this vacation rental/go-to company does it all. From finding you that perfect oceanfront villa to arranging a gourmet breakfast, private drivers, and spa services, this company delivers. Of course, it comes with a hefty price tag.

CAMPING

Kalalau Valley. In order to hike and camp here, you must obtain a permit from the Department of Lands and Natural Resources (808-274-3444; kauai-hawaii.com), 3060 Eiwa St., Lihu‘e. Rates: $10 per person.

YMCA Camp Naue (808-246-9090 or 808-826-6419), 4 miles past Hanalei, between MM 7 and 8, makai. For $10 a person, guests are allowed to tent camp near the ocean and use the BBQ pavilions and bathrooms. They also rent out beds in the bunkhouse on a first-come, first-served basis.

Where to Eat

Tiny Hanalei has the all-around best cluster of restaurants on Kaua‘i, while the Princeville eateries reviewed here have Kaua‘i’s absolute best sunset views. Plenty of smoothie stands will also draw you in.

DINING OUT

La Cascata (808-826-9644; princeville.com), Princeville Resort Kaua‘i, 5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville. Open for dinner nightly. The most elegant dining on Kaua‘i, La Cascata boasts drop-dead views of Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai. It’d be foolish not to arrive an hour before sunset. The artfully presented Sicilian menu features classic beef dishes, rack of lamb, and pasta dishes with Pacific touches. Reservations recommended. Entrées $$$$.

Lighthouse Bistro (808-828-0480; lighthousebistro.com), Kilauea Rd. (off Hwy. 56), Kilauea. Open for lunch Mon.–Sat. (closed midafternoon) and dinner daily. Set in a plantation-style building with high ceilings, bamboo chairs, and local artwork, the bistro is a very pleasant place to enjoy fine Continental, Pacific Rim, and Italian cuisine. (I hate to sound like a broken record, but the fresh catch of the day is always a very good bet.) Lunches can be particularly creative and upscale or as simple as sandwiches and wraps. And, by the way, despite the name, there are no lighthouse views here. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.

SMOOTHIES IN HANALEI

Postcards Café (808-826-1191), Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open for dinner nightly. Postcards, another plantation-style cottage where healthful is not a bad word, emphasizes local ingredients in big, creative ways. The menu—inspired by Asian, Indian, and Mediterranean foods, as well as Hawai‘i regional cuisine—ranges from fresh fish, pasta, and vegetarian dishes to Thai curries and a daily special. It’s hard to go wrong here. Eat indoors or out. Reservations recommended. Entrées $$–$$$.

Bali Hai (808-826-6522), Hanalei Bay Resort, 5380 Hono‘iki Rd., Princeville. Open for breakfast and dinner daily. Because the stunning perch overlooks Bali Hai and is rivaled only by the same westward views at La Cascata, I really only think about this open-air restaurant for sunset dinners. Might as well play to their strengths. Pacific Rim–style fish specials are the most popular dishes, but the comfortable and spacious dining room has lots of lobster and steak dishes as well. For breakfast, try the poi pancakes or fried taro. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Breakfast about $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.

Bar Acuda (808-826-7081; restaurantbaracuda.com), 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open for dinner Tues.–Sun. Foodies rejoice. If you are willing to part with a hefty hunk of cash while not staring at Bali Hai over dinner and drinks, this San Francisco–inspired restaurant is a wonderful choice. Serving up tapas (small shared plates) and a few seasonal meat, seafood, and vegetarian dinner-sized entrées, Bar Acuda specializes in sustainable cuisine prepared in creative ways. Think steak rubbed with coffee and cocoa, Humboldt Fog cheese plates, and bacalao. Reservations highly recommended. Entrées $$$–$$$$.

BALI HAI RESTAURANT

EATING OUT

Hanalei Gourmet (808-826-2524), 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open 8 AM–10:30 PM daily. From picnics-to-go to pupus, soups, salads, stir-fries, and roasted eggplant sandwiches, this little place has all the bases covered for a casual stop. The deck in front is prime, but you can also get food to take out. Previously incarnated as a schoolhouse, the lively eatery still has old-fashioned blackboards and wooden floors. The popular bar is often tuned to a TV sporting event or live music. Children’s menu. Dishes $–$$$$.

Kilauea Fish Market (808-828-6244), 4270 Kilauea Lighthouse Rd., Kilauea. Open 11 AM–8 PM Mon.–Sat. I’m always sorry I didn’t find this little fish shack sooner. Locals come out in droves for gigantic ahi or veggie wraps, farm-fresh meat, salads, plate lunches, and locally caught seafood at low, low prices. There’s no ambience here—just seriously ono kine grindz. Dishes: $–$$.

Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant (808-826-6113; hanaleidolphin.com), 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Because it claims the only waterfront dining in Hanalei (on the Hanalei River), this nautical-themed seafood spot gets to charge tourist prices for okay food. I’m partial to their salads (free with entrées) and pupus. Since no reservations are accepted, get here early, or better yet, pick up some fish from their fish market and grill it up yourself. Dishes $$$–$$$$.

Mediterranean Gourmet (808-826-9875), Hanalei Colony Resort, 5-7132 Kuhio Hwy., Ha‘ena. Open for lunch and dinner Mon.–Sat. After a number of incantations, Charo’s restaurant just might have found a winning combination: oceanfront Mediterranean dining, live music, and a great wine list. I love coming here after a hike to gorge on fresh fruit smoothies, salads, and hummus. Other darn good choices include steak or rack of lamb dinners. It doesn’t get much better than watching the sun explode over the Pacific while you sip wine and groove to live music. Lunch and dinner entrées $$–$$$.

Red Hot Mamas (808-826-7266), 5-6607 Kuhio Hwy., Ha‘ena. Open 11–5. The only fast food option in Ha‘ena serves up organic burritos, tacos, and Mexican fare using hormone-free chicken, grass-fed beef, and organic vegetables. Dishes under $.

Kalypso (808-826-9700), 5-5156 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open for lunch and dinner daily. This most hip hangout has a prime outdoor deck and kitschy, fantasy tropical indoor décor. The roadside joint is absolutely packed at lunchtime for soups and salads, even more packed during happy hour (when cheap beer and tacos rule). Dinner is a bit more eclectic—from burgers to burritos and fish to fettuccine. Children’s menu. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$.

Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza (808-828-2020), Kong Lung Center, Kilauea Rd. (off Hwy. 56), Kilauea. Open 6:30 AM–9 PM daily. Legendary pizzas (with wheat and white crusts as well as cheese choices that run the gamut from goat to Gorgonzola to feta), sourdough bread (made with poi or guava), and fruit-infused pastries rule here. It’s a bright and fashionable little place, with some outdoor picnic tables. I seem to make repeated trips here at all hours of the day. Dishes $–$$.

Bubba Burgers (808-826-7839; bubbaburgers.com), makua, Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open 10:30–8 daily. Burger central on the North Shore, Bubba’s is without equal (don’t tell Duane—see Eating Out in “The Coconut Coast”). With a little sassy attitude on the side, Bubba’s also makes popular Budweiser chili and tempeh burgers to enjoy at little thatched picnic tables. Dishes less than $.

JUST SO YOU KNOW

Banana Joe’s Tropical Fruit Stand (808-828-1092), 5-2719 Kuhio Hwy., Kilauea. You can’t miss this bright yellow roadside stand, nor should you.

Hanalei Taro & Juice Company (808-826-1059), Hwy. 560, Hanalei. When taro is mixed with local fruits, the concoction is irresistible.

Entertainment

Lu‘aus. Commercial lu‘aus are produced on Kaua‘i by a few resorts (chief among them the Princeville Resort Kaua‘i and Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa—see “The South Shore”) and independent operators, but I haven’t been to one I can recommend wholeheartedly. (If you’re going to Maui, save the experience for the Old Lahaina Lu‘au. If you’re not going to Maui, simply save your money.)

Hanalei Gourmet (see Eating Out) is a friendly place with live jazz, folk, and rock music that begins after nightfall.

Kalypso (see Eating Out) is the hippest hangout in town, with a huge selection of microbrews, cocktails, and martinis.

Sushi & Blues (808-826-4105), Ching Young Village, Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. Open nightly. With shiny copper tables and a shiny copper bar, this happenin’ place specializes in…you guessed it: sushi and blues. But they also have jazz and rock and roll. Call ahead to confirm the varied lineup of live music on Wed., Thur., and Sun.

Tahiti Nui (808-826-6277), 5-5134 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei. This spirited daily happy hour (4–6) is popular with visitors and locals for good reason. I head elsewhere when I get hungry, though.

ROMANTIC PLACES FOR COCKTAILS

Anywhere overlooking Hanalei Bay. No sensible person could argue for a more romantic place to watch the sunset than looking over the perfectly curved Hanalei Bay, Bali Hai, and the Na Pali Coast. How you experience it is up to you: Enjoy a bottle of wine discreetly on the beach (please drive safely afterward); head to the Happy Talk Lounge at Hanalei Bay Resort (see Lodging); or settle into the Living Room bar (808-826-9644) at the upscale Princeville Resort Kaua‘i (see Lodging).

Selective Shopping

FARMER’S MARKETS

Sunshine Market (808-241-6390), Kilauea Neighborhood Center, Kilauea. Thur. at 4:30.

Farmer’s Market, behind the post office, Hwy. 560, Hanalei. Sat. 11:30–1:30. The goods are primarily organic at this fun market.

Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei, Hwy. 560, Hanalei. Tues. at 2. Look for tropical flowers, tropical fruits, and organic veggies.

SHOPPING AREAS

Hanalei, Hwy. 560. Two low-key, low-slung shopping areas spar across the street from one another. Open daily. Although Ching Young Village (808-826-7222) looks a bit rough around the edges, I bet you’ll linger and loiter there. None of the goods are high art, but you’ll probably buy something.

SPECIAL SHOPS

Kung Long (808-828-1822), Kung Long Shopping Center, Kilauea Rd. (off Hwy. 56), Kilauea. Open daily. My absolute favorite shop on the island (because the shopping experience is completely aesthetic), this place sells goods with an Asian feel, including home accents, women’s clothes, jewelry, ceramics, and books.

Lotus Gallery (808-828-9898), Kung Long Shopping Center, Kilauea Rd. (off Hwy. 56), Kilauea. Open daily. One owner is a gem expert; the other is a jeweler. It’s a glistening match.

Yellowfish Trading Company (808-826-1227), Hanalei Center, Hwy. 560, Hanalei. Open daily. Take home a little piece of vintage Hawai‘i (circa 1940), treasures that look like they came off the set of From Here to Eternity, unique retro furniture, and accessories.