t Pretty Schloss Britz, occasionally a venue for exhibitions and concerts
Originally a small manor house built in 1706 for Sigismund von Erlach, Schloss Britz was extended to its current size in the 1880s to a design by Carl Busse. It is a one-storey palace with a modest Neo-Classical aspect adorned with Baroque statues and a tower.
As well as housing a museum, the building is often used as a venue for concerts and exhibitions. The palace displays furnishings from the Gründerzeit – the years after the founding of the German Empire in 1871. The 19th-century interiors are excellent, but it is also worth strolling through the lovely park, where there is a bust of one of the palace’s former owners, Rüdiger von Ilgen, which once stood in the Tiergarten.
Next to the palace there stands a housing estate called Hufeisensiedlung (Horseshoe Colony), built in the late 1920s to a design by Bruno Taut and Bruno Schneidereit. The architects’ aim was to create spacious and affordable housing for Berliners.
t Pretty Schloss Britz, occasionally a venue for exhibitions and concerts
Nestled gently between the bustling and unattractive thoroughfares of Karl-Marx-Strasse and Sonnenallee, charming Alt Rixdorf (Old Rixdorf) is a wonderful hidden spot to explore. This is the historical heart of the Neukölln neighbourhood, with pretty Richardplatz at the centre, founded in the mid-18th century by Protestant refugees from Bohemia. The cobbled streets lined with historical buildings still retain their old-world charm. Along Kirchgasse are the mid-19th-century remnants of the Bohemian village, whose history is told at the nearby Museum im Böhmischen Dorfes (Museum in a Bohemian Village) via exhibits on the traditions, beliefs, art, crafts and lives of its inhabitants, then and now. Other attractions include picturesque Bethlehemskirche, which sometimes hosts small concerts; the old village forge, dating back to 1624 and still working today; and a similarly historical coach house.
⌂ Kirchgasse 5 # 2–5pm Thu, noon–2pm 1st & 3rd Sun of the month ∑ museumimboehmischendorf.de
Experience Beyond The Center
The small stretch of protected forest (Plänterwald) that leads down from Treptower Park is a pleasant place to stroll. It’s best known, though, as the location of the “Kulturpark”, which was built in 1969 as the first theme park in the GDR. Following reunification, its rusting ruins and fallen dinosaurs became a pilgrimage destination for urbex thrill-seekers but is now owned by the city, who run official tours of the site while they decide what to do with it.
The number of Red Army soldiers involved in the Battle of Berlin.
This 4-ha (10-acre) park is something of a city secret. Located in the south of Neukölln, it’s vast enough to contain a multitude of sights, from scenic lakes and springs, themed gardens and playgrounds to a domestic animal enclosure with sheep, goats and donkeys, and several café-restaurants. Its size and rolling terrain make it feel more natural than its landscaped heritage suggests, with patches of grassland, streams and shrubs mixed in with rose and herb gardens, and a tremendous, crowd-pulling display of tulips (over 500,000) in spring. Other attractions include a “witch garden”, a small train that carries visitors around and the largest sundial in Europe. Of the three restaurants, the one inside the Britzer Mühle (mill) is the most interesting, though the Britzer Seeterrassen has the nicest views from its outdoor tables.
t Steps leading to the Red Army monument, rising above Treptower Park
The vast park in Treptow was laid out in the 1860s on the initiative and design of Johann Gustav Meyer. In January 1919 it was where revolutionaries Karl Liebknecht, Wilhelm Pieck and Rosa Luxemburg assembled a 150,000-strong group of striking workers during the Spartacist uprising.
The park, however, is best known for the colossal Soviet War Memorial. Built between 1946 and 1949, it stands on the grave of 5,000 Soviet soldiers killed in the battle for Berlin in 1945. The gateway is marked by a vast granite sculpture of a grieving Russian Motherland surrounded by statues of Red Army soldiers. This leads to the mausoleum, topped by an 11-m- (35-ft-) high figure of a soldier rescuing a child and resting his mighty sword on a smashed swastika.
In the furthest section of the park is the astronomical observatory, Archenhold Sternwarte, built for a decorative arts exhibition held here in 1896. Given a permanent site here in 1909, the observatory was used by Albert Einstein for a lecture on the Theory of Relativity in 1915. It is also home to the longest refracting telescope in the world (21 m, or 70 ft)and a small planetarium. You can take a tour at 3pm on weekends and at 8pm on Thursdays.
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⌂ Alt-Treptow 1 # 2–4:30pm Wed–Sun ∑ planetarium.berlin
t The Baroque Schloss Friedrichsfelde
The Baroque Friedrichsfelde Palace was built for Dutchman Benjamin von Raule around 1695, to a design by Johann Arnold Nering. A redesign in 1786 gave the residence its present-day appearance, typical of the style during the transition from Baroque to Neo-Classical. It now houses a museum of interiors, chiefly furnished with 18th- and 19th-century pieces.
The palace’s park was remodelled to become the East Berlin Tierpark Zoo in 1957. The animal inhabitants include all of the usual favourites and there are masses of family-friendly, hands-on experiences.
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# Nov–Feb: 9am–4:30pm daily; March, Sep & Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Apr–Sep 9am–6:30pm daily ∑ tierpark-berlin.de
t Zebras from Tierpark Zoo
This building was erected in the 1930s for the engineering corps of the Wehrmacht (the armed services of the Third Reich). It was here on the night of 8 May 1945 that Hitler’s successor Grossadmiral Karl Dönitz, Field Marshal Wilhelm Keitel, Admiral Hans-Georg von Friedeburg and General Hans-Jürgen Stumpff signed the unconditional surrender of Germany’s armed forces. You can visit the officers’ mess hall in which the signing took place and the office of Marshal Zhukov, and see an exhibition documenting the history of World War II.
Experience Beyond The Center
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EAT Inselcafé The main restaurant on the Insel der Jugend (Island of Youth) has a menu that stretches to goulash, coconut curry and pasta dishes, as well as coffee, cake and waffles throughout the day. In summer there are deckchairs set out right by the river. ⌂ Insel der Jugend # Apr–Oct: noon–6pm daily; Nov–Mar noon–6pm Sun ∑ inselberlin.de ¡¡¡ |
Under the GDR, this huge complex of buildings housed the Ministry of the Interior and the infamous Stasi (GDR secret service) headquarters. The Stasi’s “achievements” in infiltrating its own community were without equal in the Eastern bloc.
One of the buildings houses a museum that describes the organizational structure, history and ideology of the Stasi. It includes photographs and documents depicting the Stasi’s activities. The breakup of the Stasi is covered, as well as an overview of subsequent events leading up to the reunification of Germany.
A model of the headquarters is on display, as well as equipment used for bugging and spying on citizens. You can see the office of the infamous Stasi chief Erich Mielke, commander of the Ministry for State Security and a Big Brother-like figure. Mielke’s legacy of suffering still lives on in the memory of millions of German citizens. The interior is just as it was when the Stasi used the complex. Tours are held in English on Saturday, Sunday and Monday at 3pm.
t Spy camera designed to be concealed under clothing, on show at the Stasi-Museum
t The grim exterior of the Stasi-Prison, a feared destination
This museum is housed in the former custody building of the Stasi – the dreaded security service of the GDR. The custody building was part of a huge complex built in 1938. In May 1945 the occupying Russian authorities created a special transit camp here, in which they interned war criminals subsequently transported to Siberia. Shortly thereafter they started to bring anyone under political suspicion to the camp. During this time more than 20,000 people passed through here. From 1946 this group of buildings was refashioned into the custody area for the KGB, and in 1951 it was given over for the use of the Stasi.
Visitors can see prisoners’ cells and interrogation rooms. Housed in the cellars was the “submarine” – cells for the most “dangerous” suspects.
Tours are offered daily in both German and English. Many of the German-language guides are former inmates.
HIDDEN GEM
A charming steel bridge takes you from Treptower Park to Berlin’s “Island of Youth”, named in the GDR-era for its role as a former youth club. Though small, the island hosts a café and restaurant as well as occasional events (concerts, open-air cinema) and serves as a pleasant picnic spot.
t Köpenick's robustly grand town hall, completed in 1904
Köpenick is much older than Berlin. In the 9th century AD this island contained a fortified settlement called Kopanica, inhabited by Slavs. From the late 12th century Köpenick belonged to the Margrave of Brandenburg. In about 1240 a castle was built, around which a town began to evolve, though over the years it lost out in importance to Berlin. Craftsmen settled here, and after 1685 a large colony of Huguenots followed suit.
In the 19th century Köpenick recreated itself as an industrial town. Despite wartime devastation, it has retained its historic character. By the old market square and in nearby streets, such as Alt Köpenick and Grünstrasse, modest houses have survived which recall the 18th century, next to buildings from the end of the 19th century.
At Alt Köpenick No. 21 is a vast brick town hall designed in the style of the Brandenburg Neo-Renaissance by Hans Schütte and Hugo Kinzer. It was here on 16 October 1906 that a famous swindle took place. Wilhelm Voigt dressed himself in a Prussian officer’s uniform and proceeded to “arrest” the mayor and then fraudulently empty everything from the city treasury. This incident inspired a comedy, The Captain from Köpenick by Carl Zuckmayer, which is still popular today.
Köpenick’s greatest attraction is a magnificent palace, Schloss Köpenick, on the island in the southern part of town. It was built in the late 17th century for the heir to the throne, Friedrich (later King Friedrich I), to a design by the Dutch architect Rutger van Langefeld. The three-storey Baroque building that resulted was extended to a design by Johann Arnold Nering, but until 1693 only part of the extension was completed: the chapel, entrance gate and a small gallery wing. In 2004 the Kunstgewerbemuseum opened a series of Renaissance and Baroque rooms in the Köpenick palace.
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⌂ Schlossinsel 1 # 11am–5pm Tue–Sun ∑ smb.museum
HIDDEN GEM
Köpenick is home to Müggelsee, Berlin's largest lake. It's a great city escape for both locals and tourists, with hills, forests and plenty of bathing areas.
The Neo-Gothic red-brick building of Gethsemane Church is perhaps the most famous church in northeast Berlin, playing as it did a crucial role in East Germany’s peaceful revolution. This Protestant church, solidly built in oxblood-red brick in 1890, dominates the neighbourhood. It was one of several built on the order of Emperor Wilhelm II, who wanted to increase religious worship among the mostly Social Democratic working classes living in Prenzlauer Berg and other areas. The building was designed by August Orth, one of the period’s most important architects of churches and railway stations.
The Protestant community of Gethsemanekirche is proud to have pioneered civil rights movements, and hosted anti-Nazi rallies from 1933 to 1945. The congregation also questioned the Socialist regime after World War II, while the church itself served as an assembly hall for peaceful opponents in October 1989. On 2 October that year, the praying crowd was brutally attacked by the East German secret service police, marking the start of the Communist regime’s demise.
Today, the square is surrounded by beautiful restored buildings, housing many sidewalk restaurants, cafés and quaint little shops. Only a few steps away is Kollwitzplatz, a welcoming, leafy square with an atmosphere reminiscent of Paris. Nearby Kollwitzstrasse is home to an organic farmers’ market on Saturdays.
t Stunning imagery at the Zeiss-Gross-planetarium
The silvery dome visible from afar is a huge planetarium built in the grounds of a park dedicated to the memory of the interwar Communist leader Ernst Thälmann, who died at Buchenwald concentration camp. The foyer houses an exhibition of optical equipment and various accessories produced by the renowned factory of Carl-Zeiss-Jena.
t Catching some free entertainment at Mauerpark
Formerly part of the Berlin Wall (hence the name "Wall Park"), this largely treeless expanse of lawn in Prenzlauer Berg is a magnet for young locals and tourists alike. Although it can be a little claustrophobic on warm days, it is a great spot for people-watching.
Children love the park and an artificial rock can be climbed under professional supervision. From around 3pm on Sundays, aspiring pop stars can attempt karaoke at the amphitheatre and perform to a packed audience. The giant eclectic flea market held next to the park from 10am to 6pm on Sundays attracts huge crowds of mostly 20-somethings on the lookout for a special bargain, be it junk or vintage. Vegan burgers and cold beers complete the experience, which can be a welcome restorative treat after a visit to the haunting Wall Memorial nearby.
The Mauerweg, a shared walking and bicycle path, follows the path of the old Wall right across Mauerpark.
This palace, located in an extensive and picturesque park, belonged to the von Dohna family during the 17th century. Ownership of the estate passed to the Elector Friedrich III in 1691, for whom Johann Arnold Nering designed the palace. In 1704 it was extended to a design by Johann Friedrich Eosander von Göthe, who added side wings. The palace was home to Queen Elisabeth Christine, estranged wife of Frederick the Great, between 1740 and 1797. In 1763 further extensive refurbishment was undertaken by architect Johann Boumann. The property remained in the hands of the Prussian royal family for the next hundred years. Among those who resided here were Princess Auguste von Liegnitz, following the death of her husband, King Friedrich Wilhelm III.
After World War II the rebuilt palace was occupied by the president of the German Democratic Republic, Wilhelm Pieck. In 1990, after discussions here, the treaty to reunify Germany was signed on 3 October that year. Make time for a stroll through the vast park, which has kept the pleasant character bestowed on it by Peter Joseph Lenné in the 1820s.
Peter Joseph Lenné also designed the Tiergarten and Park Sanssouci.
⌂ Herbert-Baum-Strasse 45 Greifswalder Strasse, then v 12, M4, M13 @ 156, 200 # Opening times vary, see website ∑ jg-berlin.org/judentum/friedhoefe/weissensee.html
t Entrance hall to the Jüdischer Friedhof Weissensee
This extensive Jewish cemetery, established in 1880 according to a design by Hugo Licht, is the final resting place of more than 115,000 Berliners, many of whom were victims of Nazi persecution. It is chilling to note that many surnames listed on gravestones simply no longer exist in Germany, due to whole families being eradicated or driven out of the country.
By the main entrance is a place of remembrance for the victims of the Holocaust, with plaques bearing the names of the concentration camps. Buried here are renowned figures from Berlin’s Jewish cultural and commercial past. Among others here rest the publisher Samuel Fischer and the restaurateur Berthold Kempinski.
Some tombstones are outstanding works of art, such as that of the Panowsky family, designed by Ludwig Hoffmann, or the Cubist tombstone of Albert Mendel, designed by Walter Gropius. Some family graves are adorned with temple-like structures. The Nazis left this burial ground largely unharmed, but in 1999 the cemetery was desecrated in an act of anti-Semitic vandalism. More than 100 headstones were kicked over and some were smeared with swastikas.
Still in use today, most of the new graves in this plot belong to Jewish immigrants from the former Soviet Union, who outnumber the German-born Jews in Berlin.