The Big Book of Sides: More than 450 Recipes for the Best Vegetables, Grains, Salads, Breads, Sauces, and More

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Rub the inside of a 2-quart round baking dish with the garlic clove, and discard the garlic. Slather butter inside the dish.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Stir the ziti into the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally to keep the ziti from sticking, according to the package directions, until it is just al dente. Drain the ziti well and return it to the pot.

3. Meanwhile, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the leeks and cover the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender, about 10 minutes. Set the leeks aside.

4. Add the leeks, crème frâiche, and Cantal to the pasta and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the pasta in the prepared dish.

5. Bake until the pasta is piping hot and the tips are tinged with brown, about 20 minutes. Let it stand for 5 minutes, then serve hot.

BAKED ZITI WITH BROCCOLI AND GORGONZOLA

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with roast veal or pork; or veal or pork chops.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 25 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

This creamy side consists of both a green vegetable and a starch, so you’ll just have to zero in on a main protein. Because of its rich flavor profile, it is best with a simple dish, such as veal or pork rubbed with herbs and garlic. Domestic Gorgonzola is perfect for this recipe, but if you use the imported kind, choose the piccante (also called montagna) variety, as it is drier and crumbles better than the dolce type. Do not overcook either the ziti or the broccoli in the water, as they will finish cooking during baking.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus softened butter for the baking dish

12 ounces broccoli crowns

8 ounces ziti or other tube-shaped pasta

3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

¾ cup whole milk

1 cup crumbled Gorgonzola (4 ounces)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup panko

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly butter an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking dish.

2. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, cut the broccoli tops from the stems, and cut the tops into bite-sized florets. Peel the stems and cut them into bite-sized pieces.

3. Add the broccoli florets and stems to the boiling water and cook just until they turn a brighter shade of green and are still quite crisp, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook, as they will be cooked more in the oven. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the broccoli to a bowl of cold water, leaving the water in the saucepan boiling. Rinse the broccoli.

4. Stir the ziti into the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally to keep the ziti from sticking, according to the package directions, until it is just al dente. Drain it in a colander and rinse under cold running water.

5. Return the saucepan to medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter and melt it. Whisk in the flour and reduce the heat to medium-low. Let the mixture bubble without browning for 1 minute. Whisk in the broth and milk and bring them to a boil over medium heat. Return the heat to medium-low and simmer, whisking occasionally, until the sauce has lost any raw flour taste, about 5 minutes. Remove it from the heat. Whisk in ¾ cup of the Gorgonzola, reserving the remaining cheese for the topping. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. Stir the pasta and broccoli into the sauce. Spread the pasta mixture in the dish. Sprinkle it with the panko and remaining ¼ cup cheese and dot it with the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the topping is lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Noodles

There is something especially comforting about noodles, which get their tender texture from the eggs in the dough. (Pasta is usually just semolina and water, even if the homemade version usually includes eggs.) Half of these noodle recipes use sour cream. If you want to use low-fat sour cream, go ahead, but whole-fat does have superior flavor.

NOODLES ROMANOFF

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with steaks, chops, or chicken breast.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Kids love this dish—at least I know I did when Mom made it for my brothers and me. If you wish, substitute ¾ cup cream-style cottage cheese for an equal amount of the sour cream.

12 ounces medium egg noodles

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

1½ cups whole-fat sour cream

⅔ cup whole milk

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (2 ounces)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives (optional)

1. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until they are al dente.

2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender without browning, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute more.

3. Drain the noodles and add them to the onion mixture. Stir in the sour cream, milk, and Parmesan. Stir well, until the noodles are coated with the sour cream sauce and the sauce is hot but not boiling, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the noodles to a serving bowl, sprinkle them with the chives, if using, and serve.

Noodles Stroganoff: Omit the onion and Parmesan cheese. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add 8 ounces sliced white button mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots and the garlic and cook until they soften, about 1 minute. Stir in the sour cream and cook, stirring often, until it is hot but not simmering, about 1 minute. Add the drained noodles and the milk and cook until they are hot but not boiling, about 30 seconds. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives and serve.

CRISP EGG NOODLES WITH POPPY SEEDS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with beef, pork, or veal sautés or stews; veal or pork chops; or chicken sautés or stews.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 15 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

These simple noodles, sautéed in butter to give them irresistibly crisped edges, are one of the most perfect side dishes to serve with sauced main courses. Poppy seeds are a great spice to keep on hand for quickly bringing flavor to plain food. You’ll find the best prices for them at Indian grocers. Because of their high oil content, they can go rancid, though, so they will keep best in the freezer or refrigerator.

12 ounces medium egg noodles

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until just tender. Drain and rinse them well under cold running water. (The noodles must be cold, if not chilled.) Drain them well. Toss the noodles with the oil.

2. Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until the foam in the skillet starts to subside. Don’t worry if the butter begins to brown. Add the noodles and cook, without stirring, until the edges begin to crisp, about 2 minutes. Stir the noodles and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 2 minutes more. Sprinkle in the poppy seeds and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the noodles to a serving bowl and serve hot.

Crispy Noodles with Scallions: During the last minute of cooking, add 2 scallions (white and green parts), finely chopped, to the skillet.

APPLE AND SOUR CREAM NOODLE KUGEL

MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Serve with smoked or baked salmon, especially at Yom Kippur breakfast or as a sweet Rosh Hashanah treat.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Make Ahead: The kugel can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Vegetarian

My dear friend Diane Kniss and I put our heads together to come up with the ultimate noodle kugel, which is a must at a Yom Kippur break fast. Apples are coming into season at that time of year, so we layered them with our seriously creamy concoction of sour cream, cottage cheese, and cream cheese. If you are tempted to use reduced-fat dairy products for this recipe—don’t. When I served it at a Chanukah party, I was told, “This is the best kugel I ever ate, but if you tell my mother that, I’ll never speak to you again.”

APPLES

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, plus extra for the dish

3 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and cut lengthwise into eighths

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground ginger

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

12 ounces wide egg noodles

One 16-ounce container cottage cheese

One 16-ounce container sour cream

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, cut into chunks, at room temperature

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

5 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten to blend

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish

2. To prepare the apples: Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are softened but holding their shape and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle them with the sugar, lemon juice, ginger, and cloves and stir just until the sugar is melted into a glaze, about 1 minute. Spread the apple mixture in the baking dish.

3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until they are al dente. Drain them well. Return the noodles to the cooking pot.

4. Add the cottage cheese, sour cream, cream cheese, and melted butter. Mix until the cream cheese has melted. Stir in 1 cup of the sugar and the vanilla. Gradually stir in the eggs. Pour the mixture over the apples and smooth the top. In a small bowl, mix the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and the cinnamon and sprinkle them over the noodle mixture.

5. Place the dish on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the kugel is puffed evenly and golden brown, about 1 hour. (The kugel can be cooled, covered with aluminum, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat, covered, in a 350°F oven for about 30 minutes.) Let it stand for 15 minutes before serving. Serve it warm or cooled to room temperature.

SWEET NOODLE KUGEL WITH ROSEMARY AND BLACK PEPPER

MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Serve as part of a Passover Seder with roast lamb or chicken.

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: 1 hour

Make Ahead: The kugel can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

This sweet, savory, and mildly spiced noodle pudding is a simplified variation of Jerusalem kugel, which is made with caramelized sugar. (Supposedly, this kind of kugel was brought from Eastern Europe to Jerusalem by Hasidic Jews, hence the name.) I find brown sugar much easier to use and the results to be the same. I gave the recipe to a friend who wanted to make something different for a Seder with many highly judgmental eaters. She reported back that she was asked to bring it to every Seder from now on.

12 ounces fine egg noodles

¾ cup packed light brown sugar

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

3 large eggs, beaten to blend

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until they are barely tender. Scoop out and reserve ¼ cup of the cooking water. Drain the noodles well.

3. In the same pot, whisk together the brown sugar, oil, and reserved water. Bring them to a boil, whisking often to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the drained noodles. Let them cool slightly. Gradually stir in the beaten eggs, stirring briskly so the eggs don’t set from the heat of the noodles, then add 1 teaspoon of the rosemary and the pepper and salt. Spread the mixture in the baking dish.

4. Bake until the kugel top is golden brown and feels set when pressed in the center, about 45 minutes. (The kugel can be cooled, covered with aluminum, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat, covered, in a 350° F oven for about 30 minutes.) Let it stand at room temperature for 5 minutes. Sprinkle it with the remaining 1 teaspoon rosemary and serve warm or cooled to room temperature.

Orzo

This rice-shaped pasta can be simply boiled, but it also takes well to being baked into a casserole and toasting for extra flavor.

ORZO WITH LEMON, PARMESAN, AND PEAS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with roast beef, pork, or lamb; roast chicken; or seafood.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 10 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

Orzo is one of the most versatile in the entire pasta family—and that’s saying a mouthful. I turn to this citrusy side dish time and time again to serve with salmon or shrimp. As the butter melts with the Parmesan, it forms a lovely sauce.

1 cup orzo

½ cup thawed frozen peas

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1½ ounces)

Grated zest of half a lemon

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orzo and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until it is barely tender. Drain the orzo well and return it to the pot.

2. Add the peas and butter and cook, stirring constantly over low heat, until the peas are heated through, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Parmesan, lemon zest, and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and serve hot.

TOASTED ORZO PILAF WITH CORN AND ROSEMARY

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with lamb or pork chops; sautéed chicken; fish fillets; or shrimp.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish

Here, orzo is browned and cooked with broth and vegetables for a version of pilaf. Because I always have corn kernels on hand in the freezer, this is how I prepare this orzo most often, but I have also used thawed peas or such leftover vegetables as broccoli or roasted carrots.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup orzo

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels, at room temperature

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese (½ ounce)

1. Heat the oil and butter together in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, until the butter melts. Add the orzo, shallot, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the orzo is lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

2. Stir in the broth, salt, and pepper and bring them to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer for 8 minutes. Add the corn and rosemary, but do not stir them in. Cover again and continue to cook until the pilaf is tender and the corn is heated, about 2 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and stir.

3. Transfer the pilaf to a serving bowl, sprinkle it with the Parmesan, and serve.

ORZO, SPINACH, AND FETA CASSEROLE

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with lamb roasts or chops; grilled whole fish or fish fillets; or sautéed shrimp.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Make Ahead: The casserole can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

This Greek-style pasta casserole is a natural with lamb, but I really like it as a side served with whole grilled fish. It uses one of my favorite tricks—cooking vegetables in the same water as the pasta to save time and cleanup. There is a lot of room for personal expression in this recipe, as the variations suggest. For a large group, double the recipe and bake it in a 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish for about 30 minutes.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the baking dish

1 heaping cup orzo

One 10-ounce bag baby spinach

4 scallions (white and green parts), chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup halved grape tomatoes

½ cup crumbled feta (2 ounces)

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil an 8-inch square baking dish.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orzo and cook according to the package directions, stirring often to prevent it from sticking together, until it is almost tender. In three or four additions, keeping the water at a boil, stir in the spinach and cook just until it is wilted. Drain the orzo and spinach. Press gently on the mixture with a rubber spatula to remove excess moisture from the spinach. Return the orzo and spinach to the cooking pan.

3. Meanwhile, heat the oil over medium heat in a medium skillet. Add the scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they give off their juices, 2 to 3 minutes. Add to the orzo mixture with the feta and dill. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture in the baking dish. (The casserole can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated to this point up to 8 hours ahead.)

4. Bake, uncovered, until the top is beginning to brown, about 20 minutes (or 30 minutes if refrigerated). Serve hot.

Orzo, Spinach, and Gorgonzola Casserole: Omit the dill. Substitute ½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese (2 ounces) for the feta.

Orzo, Spinach, and Jalapeño Jack Casserole: Omit the dill and use the oregano. Substitute ½ cup shredded jalapeño Jack cheese (2 ounces) for the feta.

Spaëtzle

A hybrid of dumplings and noodles, spaëtzle are really easy to make and a little too delicious for their own good. A spaëtzle maker looks like a flat metal cheese grater carriage that holds the batter. Sold at well-stocked kitchenware stores and online, it may be a single-purpose gadget, but it is relatively cheap, and I can almost guarantee that you will use it often. My favorite way to eat it is to fry chilled spaëtzle in butter until the edges are crispy.

Fried Spaëtzle (with farmer’s cheese and chives)

CLASSIC SPAËTZLE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with sauerbraten, roast pork, pork chops, sausages, roast duck, or roast goose.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 3 minutes

Make Ahead: The spaëtzle can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Cooking Classic, Vegetarian

Spaëtzle is a classic German recipe, and I serve it with sauerbraten, sausages, and anything remotely Teutonic. Here is the basic recipe, simply tossed with butter, but there is a lot of room for variations. An inexpensive spaëtzle maker is much easier to use than a colander, and once you have one, you will be looking for reasons to make spaëtzle.

SPAËTZLE

3 large eggs

½ cup whole milk

1½ cups (195 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed

Kosher salt

A few gratings of fresh nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh chives (optional)

Special Equipment: A spaëtzle maker or colander with large (¼-inch) holes

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.

2. To make the spaëtzle: In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together. Add the flour, 1 teaspoon salt, nutmeg, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Stir with a wooden spoon to make a smooth, thick batter about the consistency of muffin batter. If the batter seems too thick, add more milk, or if it is thin, add flour.

3. Set the spaëtzle maker, with the flat section facing down, on the edges of the saucepan over the boiling water. Spoon the batter into the container. Quickly move the container back and forth, forcing the batter through the holes and into the water. Remove the spaëtzle maker. (Or pour all of the batter into a colander with large holes. Holding the colander over the saucepan, use a rubber spatula to force the batter through the holes and into the water.) Return the water to a boil and cook until all of the spaëtzle have risen to the surface. Drain carefully. (The spaëtzle can be rinsed under cold water and cooled, tossed with 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, and stored in a 1-gallon plastic zip-tight bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.)

4. Transfer the spaëtzle to a serving bowl and toss it with the butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with the chives, if using, and serve.

Spaëtzle with Poppy Seeds: Substitute 1 tablespoon poppy seeds for the chives.

Spaëtzle with Sour Cream: Omit the butter for the sauce. Top the spaëtzle with a large dollop of room-temperature sour cream, and sprinkle it with the chives.

Fried Spaëtzle: This is the way I remember my grandmother making spaëtzle. The golden brown edges are delicious. When draining the spaëtzle, rinse it under cold running water and drain well. Toss the spaëtzle with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Transfer it to a 1-gallon plastic zip-tight bag and refrigerate it until chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 1 day. Heat 2 tablepoons unsalted butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spaëtzle and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Fried Spaëtzle with Caramelized Onions: Top the spaëtzle with caramelized onions.

Couscous, Moroccan and Israeli

Traditional couscous, a staple of Moroccan cuisine, is made from tiny pellets of dried semolina dough. It cooks to tenderness in 5 minutes, a time that is hard to beat when you have to get a side dish on the table in a hurry. In addition to plain couscous, colored green (spinach) and orange (tomato) varieties are available. They look great, but the vegetable flavors are not pronounced.

Israeli couscous are small, toasted balls of white pasta dough, and they take about 10 minutes to simmer to a deliciously chewy texture.

COUSCOUS WITH GARBANZOS AND HERBS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Serve with spicy meat, poultry, or seafood stews.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 10 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare, Vegetarian

This is a very easy way to bring extra flavor to plain couscous. Use whatever fresh herbs you have handy, although cilantro goes especially well with Moroccan seasonings, and I serve this often with North African tagines.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

One 15-ounce can garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained and rinsed

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup plain couscous

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, oregano, parsley, or mint

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and the garlic together in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the garbanzo beans and cover the saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garbanzo beans are heated through, about 5 minutes. Transfer the garbanzo bean mixture to a serving bowl, tent it with aluminum foil to keep warm, and set aside.

2. Add 2¼ cups water and the salt to the saucepan and bring them to a boil over high heat. Stir in the couscous and tightly cover the saucepan. Remove it from the heat and let it stand until the couscous is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 5 minutes. Add the garbanzo bean mixture, remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil, and the cilantro and stir them into the couscous with a fork, fluffing the couscous as you do so. Transfer the couscous to a serving bowl and serve.

BUTTERED COUSCOUS WITH SCALLIONS AND CUMIN

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with spicy meat, poultry, or seafood stews.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 10 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Company Fare

Another simple recipe for upgrading couscous, it can be varied by substituting 1 teaspoon coarsely ground coriander seed for the cumin.

1 teaspoon cumin seed

2¼ cups reduced-sodium chicken broth or water

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup plain couscous

1 scallion (white and green parts), finely chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, thinly sliced

1. Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is toasted, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the broth and salt and bring them to a boil over high heat. Stir in the couscous and tightly cover the saucepan. Remove it from the heat and let it stand until the couscous is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 5 minutes. Add the scallion and butter and stir them into the couscous with a fork, fluffing the couscous as you do so. Transfer the couscous to a serving bowl and serve.

ISRAELI COUSCOUS WITH RED BELL PEPPER AND SCALLION

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Serve with pork or lamb chops; sausages; roast chicken or chicken sautés; fish fillets or shrimp.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish

Israeli couscous has an interesting pedigree. It was invented in the late 1940s, when the Israeli government needed a sustainable domestic substitute for rice, which had to be imported. This recipe shows off its chewy texture.

1 tablespoon olive oil

¾ cup (½-inch) diced red bell pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1⅓ cups Israeli couscous

1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

1 scallion (white and green parts), thinly sliced

1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer the bell pepper to a small bowl.

2. Add the butter to the saucepan and melt it over medium heat. Add the couscous and cook, stirring often, until it is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, ¾ cup water, and the salt and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the saucepan. Simmer until the couscous is tender and has absorbed the liquid, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Remove the pan from the heat. Return the bell pepper to the saucepan, along with the scallion, but do not stir the couscous. Cover again and let it stand for 3 minutes to reheat the bell pepper. Fluff the couscous with a fork, transfer it to a serving bowl, and serve hot.

Gnocchi

Potato gnocchi are substantial enough to be served as a pasta main course. By contrast, their cousin, semolina gnocchi, is relatively plain and makes a good side dish. For a German relative to the potato gnocchi, see the dumplings.

ROMAN-STYLE SEMOLINA GNOCCHI

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Serve with roast veal or lamb; veal or lamb chops; chicken cacciatore; or shrimp scampi.

Prep Time: 20 minutes, plus 2 hours refrigeration time

Cooking Time: 40 minutes

Make Ahead: The gnocchi can be prepared, without baking, up to 1 day ahead.

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Buffet Dish, Vegetarian

A specialty of Roman cooks, these gnocchi are usually cut into rounds, but I prefer squares so I don’t have to discard any trimmings. Semolina is finely ground durum wheat, the same variety used to make pasta. Not as smooth as flour, it has a somewhat gritty consistency (semolina means “sandy” in Italian).

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces, plus softened butter for the baking dish

2 cups whole milk

1⅓ cups semolina

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (4 ounces)

2 large eggs

1. Lightly butter an 11½ × 8 × 2-inch baking dish.

2. Whisk together 2 cups water with the milk, semolina, salt, and pepper in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring them to a simmer, whisking constantly to avoid scorching on the bottom of the saucepan, over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook, whisking often, until the mixture is very thick and has lost its raw taste, at least 10 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Add ½ cup of the Parmesan and whisk until smooth.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs together. Whisk in about 1 cup of the semolina mixture, then whisk the egg mixture back into the saucepan. Spread the semolina evenly into the baking dish. Let the mixture cool until tepid. Cover it loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until it is chilled and firm, at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours.

4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

5. Invert the baking dish and unmold the cold semolina onto a cutting board. Wash and dry the baking dish, then butter the inside. Cut the semolina into thirds lengthwise, and then into sixths crosswise to make 18 equal gnocchi. Arrange the gnocchi, overlapping as needed, in the baking dish. Sprinkle them with the remaining ½ cup Parmesan and dot with the 1 tablespoon cold butter.

6. Bake until the cheese is melted and the tips of the gnocchi are browned, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Dumplings

Plump and tender pillows of cooked dough, American dumplings are cooked directly in the main course’s gravy (or sauce, if you will). German dumplings are simmered separately in water and served with gravy spooned on top.

OLD-FASHIONED DUMPLINGS

MAKES 8 DUMPLINGS

Serve with meat, poultry, or vegetable stews, including chili.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Weeknight Suppers, Family Favorite, Cooking Classic

Life can be pretty hectic, so it is a real pleasure to slow down and make a delicious stew for dinner with meat and vegetables married together by long simmering. In my opinion, stew is even better when fluffy dumplings are floating on top of the gravy. These are the simple and basic dumplings of my childhood, but I provide less elementary variations.

• The dumpling dough should be added to the stew during the last 20 minutes of cooking, when the sauce has developed flavor and the meat is almost tender. In the case of red meat, you can usually cook the stew until the meat is just tender because these cuts (beef chuck or short ribs, and veal, pork, and lamb shoulder) are pretty forgiving and can stand to take an extra 20 minutes of cooking without drying out. However, poultry, especially chicken breast, can overcook, so don’t wait until it is tender before adding the dumpling dough.

• When you are ready to add the dough, evaluate the consistency of the sauce. Remember that it is going to cook for another 20 minutes, so if you think that it is already thick enough at the point that the dough is added, add some water or broth to thin it slightly. Otherwise, the sauce could scorch.

• Dumplings cook best in stews with a generous amount of sauce. There should be enough liquid to completely cover the stew ingredients.

• Dumplings expand quite a bit in the pot, so leave plenty of room between the drops of dough, as they will double in size.

• There is no butter in my dumpling dough. I believe that the stew sauce is rich enough. But if you want to gild the lily, try the Rich Dumplings variation.

1½ cups (195 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

¾ cup whole milk

1. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Make a well in the center and stir in the milk to make a sticky dough.

2. Using a heaping tablespoon for each dumpling and, working close to the surface of the simmering sauce, drop 8 mounds of dough into the stew. Cover the pot tightly and simmer until the dumplings have doubled in size and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Herb Dumplings: Add 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, sage, or parsley (or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, thyme, or sage) to the dough.

Rich Dumplings: Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Add 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes. Cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the milk.

Cornmeal Dumplings: This is especially good with chili. Replace ⅓ cup of the flour with yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground.

GERMAN POTATO DUMPLINGS

MAKES 1 DOZEN

Serve with sauce-based German dishes, such as sauerbraten or any stews; or roast goose.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cooking Time: 10 minutes

Make Ahead: The dumplings can be prepared for cooking up to 1 hour ahead.

Family Favorite, Holiday Feasts, Company Fare, Vegetarian

If you have German heritage, you have probably eaten your share of these dumplings, made from mashed boiled potatoes and a bread stuffing. On paper, they may look similar to Italian potato gnocchi, but there are a few differences. While gnocchi is served as a first course, these are always a side dish, usually covered with the main course’s gravy. And while there are unstuffed potato dumplings, the bread cubes create a space that keeps the ball from becoming too compact and heavy. But you can skip the stuffing and cook the dumplings for an extra few minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. I prefer a potato ricer to process the potatoes into a smooth consistency, or you can force them through a wire mesh sieve.

1½ pounds baking potatoes, such as russets, scrubbed

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

2 slices firm sandwich bread, lightly toasted and cooled, cut into ½-inch squares

⅓ cup (45 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed

⅓ cup (55 g) unbleached farina (see Note)

1 large egg, beaten to blend

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper

A few gratings of fresh nutmeg

1. Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold salted water to cover. Cover and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a brisk simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife, 25 to 35 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the bread squares and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the bread to a plate and let it cool completely.

3. Bring a second pot of salted water to a boil over high heat for cooking the dumplings. It must be large enough to hold the 12 dumplings without crowding.

4. Drain the potatoes well. To peel, spear a hot potato onto a meat fork and use a small knife to remove the skins. Put the potatoes through a potato ricer (or rub them through a medium-mesh wire sieve) into a large bowl. Stir the flour and farina into the potatoes. Beat in the egg, working quickly so it doesn’t set. Stir in the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Shape a few tablespoons of the dough into a ball; if it doesn’t hold together, add more flour as needed.

5. Line a baking sheet with waxed paper and sprinkle it with flour. Using floured hands, divide the dough into 12 equal balls. Working with one ball at a time, flatten the dough between your palms into a thick disk. Place 2 or 3 bread pieces in the center of the disk and bring up the sides to enclose the bread. Shape it into a tangerine-sized ball and transfer it to the baking sheet. (The dumplings can be covered with a clean kitchen towel and stored at room temperature for up to 1 hour.)

6. One at a time, add the dumplings to the boiling water, being sure that they have enough room to “swim” without crowding. Reduce the heat to medium so the water maintains a brisk simmer. Partially cover the saucepan. Cook until the dumplings rise to the surface. From that point, continue cooking until the dumplings look slightly puffed and lighter in texture, about 5 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings to a platter and serve immediately.

Note: Farina is a coarsely ground wheat flour with a speckled beige appearance. You will find it in the hot cereal section of the supermarket. Do not confuse it with quick-cooking or instant breakfast cereal, such as Cream of Wheat. If necessary, substitute semolina, which is similar in texture to farina but milled from gold-colored durum wheat.