t The impressive Baroque façade of the Palácio de Mafra
! D5 ⌂ Terreiro de Dom João V, Mafra @ From Lisbon q Campo Grande, then @ Ericeira # 9:30am– 5:30pm Wed–Mon (last adm 4:45pm) ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec ∑ palaciomafra.gov.pt
t The impressive Baroque façade of the Palácio de Mafra
This massive Baroque palace and monastery were built during the reign of João V, and began with a vow by the young king to build a new monastery and basilica, supposedly in return for an heir. Work began in 1717 on a modest project but, as wealth began to pour into the royal coffers from Brazil, the king and his Italian-trained architect, Johann Friedrich Ludwig (1670–1752), made ever more extravagant plans. No expense was spared: the finished project housed 330 friars, a royal palace and one of the finest libraries in Europe, decorated with precious marble, exotic wood and countless works of art. The magnificent basilica was consecrated on the king’s 41st birthday, 22 October 1730.
The palace was only popular with those members of the royal family who enjoyed hunting deer and wild boar. Most of the finest furniture and art works were taken to Brazil when the royal family escaped the French invasion in 1807. The monastery was abandoned in 1834 following the dissolution of all religious orders, and the palace itself was abandoned in 1910.
The tour starts in the rooms of the monastery, through the pharmacy, with some alarming medical instruments, to the infirmary, where patients could see and hear mass in the adjoining chapel from their beds.
Upstairs, the sumptuous state rooms extend across the whole of the west façade, with the King’s apartments at one end and the queen’s apartments at the other. Midway, the long, imposing façade is relieved by the twin towers of the domed basilica. The church’s interior is decorated in contrasting colours of marble and furnished with six early 19th-century organs. Mafra’s greatest treasure, however, is its library, with its Rococo-style wooden bookcases, and a collection of over 40,000 books in gold-embossed leather bindings, including a prized first edition of Os Lusíadas (1572) by the Portuguese poet Luís de Camões (1524–80).
Construction of the Palácio de Mafra began, a project so ambitious it almost bankrupted the state.
t Natural rock pool at the coastal town of Azenhas do Mar, near Colares
On the lower slopes of the Serra de Sintra, this lovely village faces the sea over a green valley. A leafy avenue winds its way up to the village. Small quantities of the famous Colares wine are still made. The hardy vines grow in sandy soil, with the roots set deep in clay; these were among the few vines in Europe to survive the disastrous phylloxera epidemic brought from America in the late 19th century. The insect ate the vines’ roots but could not penetrate the dense sandy soil of the Atlantic coast. The Adega Regional de Colares on Alameda de Coronel Linhares de Lima offers wine tastings.
There are several popular beach resorts west of Colares. Just north of Praia das Maçãs is the picturesque village of Azenhas do Mar, clinging to the cliffs; to the south is the larger resort of Praia Grande.
Ericeira is an old fishing village that keeps its traditions despite an ever-increasing influx of summer visitors who enjoy the bracing climate, clean, sandy beaches and fresh seafood. In July and August, pavement cafés, restaurants and bars around the tree-lined Praça da República are buzzing late into the night. Alternative attractions include Santa Marta park and a history museum (closed until 2020).
The unspoilt old town, a maze of whitewashed houses and narrow, cobbled streets, is perched high above the ocean. From Largo das Ribas, at the top of a 30-m (100-ft) stone-faced cliff, there is a bird’s-eye view over the busy fishing harbour below, where tractors haul the boats out of reach of the tide. In mid-August, the annual fishermen’s festival is celebrated with a candlelit procession to the harbour at the foot of the cliffs for the blessing of the boats.
On 5 October 1910, Manuel II, the last king of Portugal, sailed into exile from Ericeira as the Republic was declared in Lisbon; a tiled panel in the fishermen’s chapel of Santo António above the harbour records the event. The banished king settled in Twickenham, southwest London, where he died in 1932.
Experience The Lisbon Coast
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stay Martinhal Cascais This upmarket, family-friendly hotel offers plush rooms or villas equipped with all you could need for a chilled holiday. With an indoor and an outdoor pool, and kids’ activities, there’s plenty to keep children happy. ⌂ Rua do Clube 2, Cascais ∑ martinhal.com ¡¡ ¡ Moon Hill Hostel Tucked in a quiet corner of hilltop Sintra, this modern hostel offers stylish double rooms as well as contemporary dorms. There’s a communal lounge, kitchen and pretty patio garden. ⌂ Rua Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 17, Sintra ∑ moonhillhostel.com ¡ ¡¡ |
t The Palace of Monserrate’s beautifully wrought Romantic architecture, out
The wild, romantic garden of this estate is a jungle of exotic trees and flowering shrubs. Among the subtropical foliage and valley of tree ferns are a waterfall, a small lake and a chapel, built as a ruin, tangled in the roots of a giant Ficus tree. Its history dates back to the Moors, but it takes its name from a small 16th-century chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Montserrat in Catalonia, Spain. The gardens were landscaped in the late 1700s by a wealthy young Englishman, William Beckford. They were later immortalized by Lord Byron in Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage (1812).
In 1856, the abandoned estate was bought by another Englishman, Sir Francis Cook, who built a fantastic Moorish-style palace and transformed the gardens with a sweeping lawn, camellias and subtropical trees from all over the world.
t The Palace of Monserrate’s beautifully wrought Romantic architecture, inside
Insider Tip
Take the beach train from Caparica to the end of the line at Fonte da Telha. This is a popular family destination, but keep walking and you’ll quickly find a patch of golden sands that you can have all to yourself.
The lovely resort town of Estoril is a tourist and business resort, and a place for comfortable retirement. What separates Estoril from Cascais, besides a pleasant beach promenade of 3 km (2 miles) and a mansion-covered ridge known as Monte Estoril, is its sense of place. The heart of Estoril is immediately accessible from the train station. On one side of the tracks, is the riviera-like, but relaxed beach; on the other, a palm-lined park flanked by grand buildings, stretches up past fountains to a casino. Dwarfing the casino is the Estoril Congress Centre, a vast multipurpose edifice that speaks confidently of Estoril’s contemporary role.
t Bathers enjoying the clear blue waters and sandy beach at Cascais
A holiday resort for well over a century, Cascais possesses a certain illustriousness that younger resorts lack. Its history is visible in its villas, summer residences of wealthy Lisboetas who followed King Luís I’s lead during the late 19th century.
Cascais today is a favoured suburb of Lisbon, a place of seaside apartments and pine-studded plots by golf courses. But the beautiful coastline beyond the town has been left largely undeveloped.
Housed in a castle-like villa, the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães is the best place to get a taste of Cascais’s history.
The Casa das Histórias Paula Rego is dedicated to the work of the painter, illustrator and printmaker.
" ⌂ Avenida Rei Humberto de Itália § 214 815 304 # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun
" ⌂ Avenida da República 300 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Apr–Oct: to 7pm) ∑ casadashistoriaspaularego.com
This delightful old town overlooks the Tagus estuary from the southern shore. Salt has long been one of the main industries here, and saltpans can still be seen north and south of the town, while in the town centre a large statue of a muscular salt worker has the inscription: “Do Sal a Revolta e a Esperança” (From Salt to Rebellion and Hope). The Reserva Natural do Estuário do Tejo covers a vast area of estuary water, salt marshes and small islands around Alcochete, and is a very important breeding ground for water birds.
Long beaches, backed by sand dunes make this a popular holiday resort for Lisboetas who come to swim, sunbathe and enjoy the seafood restaurants and beach cafés. A railway, with open carriages, runs 10 km (6 miles) along the coast in summer months. The first beaches reached from the town are popular with families with children, while the furthest beaches suit those seeking quiet isolation.
Experience The Lisbon Coast
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EAT O Pescador This nautical-themed eatery is lined with wooden tables and fishing paraphernalia. Diners can sit on the pleasant outdoor terrace and enjoy the menu’s emphasis on fresh fish. ⌂ Rua das Flores 10b, Cascais ¢ Wed L ∑ restaurantepescador.com ¡¡ ¡ Saudade An appealing café and art gallery near the train station that serves coffees, cakes, sandwiches and petiscos (Portuguese tapas). ⌂ Avenida Dr Miguel Bombarda 6, Sintra § 212 428 804 ¡¡ ¡ |
t Brightly painted fishing boats moored in the harbour at Sesimbra
Protected from north winds by the slopes of the Serra da Arrábida, this busy fishing village has become a popular holiday resort. The old town is a maze of steep narrow streets, with the Santiago Fort (now a customs post) in the centre overlooking the sea. From the terrace there are views of the town, the Atlantic and the wide sandy beach that stretches out on either side. Sesimbra is fast developing as a resort, with plentiful pavement cafés and bars that are always busy on sunny days.
The fishing fleet is moored in the Porto do Abrigo to the west of the main town. The harbour is reached by taking Avenida dos Náufragos, a sweeping promenade that follows the beach out of town. When the fishing boats return from a day at sea, a colourful, noisy fish auction takes place on the quayside. The day’s catch can be tasted in the town’s excellent fish restaurants along the shore.
High above the town is the Moorish castle, greatly restored in the 18th century when a church and small flower-filled cemetery were added inside the walls. There are wonderful views from the ramparts, especially at sunset.
Sheer cliffs drop straight into the sea on this windswept promontory. The Romans named it Promontorium Barbaricum, alluding to its dangerous location, and a lighthouse warns sailors of the treacherous rocks below. Stunning views of the ocean and the coast can be enjoyed from this bleak outcrop of land but beware of the strong gusts of wind on the cliff edge.
In this desolate setting is the impressive Santuário de Nossa Senhora do Cabo, a late 17th-century church with its back to the sea. On either side of the church a long line of pilgrims’ lodgings facing inwards form an open courtyard. Baroque paintings, ex votos and a frescoed ceiling decorate the church’s interior. Nearby, a domed chapel has tiled blue and white azulejo panels depicting fishing scenes. The site became a popular place of pilgrimage in the 13th century when a local man had a vision of the Madonna rising from the sea on a mule. Legend has it that the tracks of the mule can be seen embedded in the rock.
The formidable castle at Palmela stands over the small hill town, high on a northeastern spur of the wooded Serra da Arrábida. Its strategic position dominates the plain for miles around, especially when floodlit at night. Heavily defended by the Moors, it was finally conquered in the 12th century and given by Sancho I to the Knights of the Order of Santiago. In 1423, João I transformed the castle into a monastery for the Order. It has since been restored and converted into a splendid pousada, with a restaurant in the monks’ refectory and a swimming pool for residents, hidden inside the castle walls.
From the castle terraces and the top of the 14th-century keep, there are fantastic views over the Serra da Arrábida to the south, and on a clear day across the Tagus to Lisbon. In the town square below, the church of São Pedro contains 8th-century tiles of scenes from the life of St Peter.
The annual wine festival, the Festa das Vindimas, is held on the first weekend of September in front of the 17th-century Paços do Concelho (town hall). Traditionally dressed villagers press the wine barefoot and on the final day of celebrations there is a spectacular firework display from the castle walls.
t The castle at Palmela with views over the Serra da Arrábida
The Serra da Arrábida Natural Park covers the range of limestone mountains that stretch east-west along the coast between Sesimbra and Setúbal. It was established to protect the wild, beautiful landscape and rich variety of birds and wildlife, including wildcats and badgers.
The sheltered, south-facing slopes are thickly covered with aromatic and evergreen shrubs and trees such as pine and cypress, more typical of the Mediterranean. Vineyards also thrive on the sheltered slopes and the town of Vila Nogueira de Azeitão is particularly known for its wine, Moscatel de Setúbal.
The Estrada de Escarpa (the N379-1) snakes across the top of the ridge and affords astounding views. A narrow road winds down to Portinho da Arrábida, a sheltered cove with a beach of fine white sand and crystal clear sea, popular with underwater fishermen. The sandy beaches of Galapos and Figueirinha are a little further east along the coast road towards Setúbal. Just east of Sesimbra, the Serra da Arrábida drops to the sea in the sheer 380-m (1,250-ft) cliffs of Risco, the highest in mainland Portugal.
Experience The Lisbon Coast
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STAY Sana Park Sesimbra In an ideal spot right on Sesimbra’s seafront, this classy hotel offers excellent sea views from the rooms, which are decorated in contemporay style. The hotel has its own pool and a restaurant with a terrace in front of the beach. ⌂ Avenida 25 de Abril 11, Sesimbra ∑ sesimbra.sanahotels.com ¡¡ ¡ Pousada Dom Afonso II Housed within a stylishly converted castle, the hotel has sweeping views of the Sado river and valley, and there is also a swimming pool and restaurant. ⌂ Castelo de Alcácer do Sal, Alcácer do Sal ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡ ¡ |
t Jetty with fishing boats moored on the mud flats at Carrasqueira
Holiday apartments dominate the tip of the Tróia peninsula, easily accessible from Setúbal by ferry. The Atlantic coast, stretching south for 18 km (11 miles) of untouched sandy beaches, is now the haunt of sun-seekers in the summer.
Near Tróia, in the sheltered lagoon, the Roman town of Cetóbriga was the site of a thriving fish-salting business. The stone tanks and ruined buildings are open to visit.
Further on, Carrasqueira is an old fishing community where you can still see traditional reed houses.
Experience The Lisbon Coast
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Eat O Barbas Catedral This renowned restaurant, which overlooks the breakers of Caparica beach, is usually packed at weekends thanks to its delicious seafood dishes. ! D5 ⌂ Apoio de Praia 13, Caparica § 212 900 163 ¡¡ ¡ O Galeão Expect sparkling sea views from the terrace, great salads and fresh fish at this restaurant above the water. ! D5 ⌂ Portinho da Arrábida § 212 180 533 ¡¡ ¡ Ribamar This upmarket restaurant is right on the seafront, and has been serving tasty seafood dishes for over 60 years. ! D5 ⌂ Avenida dos Náufragos 29, Sesimbra ∑ ribamar.pt ¡¡¡ |
An important industrial town and the third-largest port in Portugal (after Lisbon and Porto), Setúbal makes a good base from which to explore the area. To the south of the central gardens and fountains are the fishing harbour, marina and ferry port, and a lively covered market. North of the gardens is the old town, with attractive pedestrian streets and squares full of cafés.
The 16th-century cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria da Graça, has glorious 18th-century tiled panels, and gilded altar decoration. Street names commemorate two famous Setúbal residents: Manuel Barbosa du Bocage (1765–1805), whose satirical poetry landed him in prison, and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), a celebrated opera singer.
In Roman times, fish-salting was the most important industry here. Rectangular stone tanks used for this process can still be seen on Travessa Frei Gaspar.
To the north of the old town, the striking Igreja de Jesus (currently closed for restoration) is one of Setúbal’s treasures. Designed by the architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, the lofty interior is adorned with twisted columns of pinkish Arrábida limestone, and rope-like stone ribs, recognized as the first examples of the distinctive Manueline style.
On Rua do Balneário, in the old monastic quarters, a museum houses 14 remarkable paintings of the life of Christ. The works are attributed to followers of the Renaissance painter Jorge Afonso (1520–30).
The Museu de Arquelogia e Etnografia displays a wealth of finds from digs around Setúbal, including Bronze Age pots and Roman coins. The ethnography display shows local arts, crafts and industries, including the processing of salt and cork over the centuries.
The star-shaped Castelo de São Filipe was built in 1595 by Philip II of Spain during the period of Spanish rule to keep a wary eye on pirates, English invaders and the local population. It now houses a boutique hotel, but the battlements and ramparts are open to the public and offer marvellous views over the city and the Sado estuary.
Setúbal is an ideal starting point for a tour by car of the unspoilt Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado, a vast stretch of mud flats,shallow lagoons and salt marshes, which has been explored and inhabited since 3500 BC.
t Tiled chapel in Castelo de São Filipe, Setúbal
⌂ Avenida Luísa Todi 162 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols ∑ maeds.amrs.pt
\ ⌂ Estrada de São Felipe # 10am–noon, 1–6pm Tue–Sun (to midnight Fri & Sat)
A protected nature reserve, the Sado estuary is an area of salt marsh home to nesting storks and flamingos, and the only place along the Portuguese coast where you can see wild bottlenose dolphins. Many water birds, including avocets and pratincoles, are found close to the areas of open water and dried-out lagoons of the estuary, where reedbeds provide shelter.
Setúbal’s most famous son is Manchester United manager José Mourinho, born here in 1963.
Bypassed by the main road, the ancient town of Alcácer do Sal (al-kasr from the Arabic for castle, and do sal from its trade in salt) sits peacefully on the north bank of the Sado river. The imposing castle was a hillfort as early as the 6th century BC. The Phoenicians made an inland trading port here, and the castle later became a Roman stronghold. Rebuilt by the Moors, it was conquered by Afonso II in 1217. The buildings have now taken on a new life as a pousada, with sweeping views over the rooftops. Also here is the Cripta Arqueológica do Castelo, an archaeological museum holding locally excavated items. The collections include artifacts from the Iron Age, as well as from the Roman, Moorish and medieval periods.
There are pleasant cafés along the riverside promenade and several historic churches.
" ⌂ Castelo de Alcácer do Sal § 265 612 058 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols