t Stone fortress of São João on Berlenga Grande
Monks, a lighthouse keeper, fishermen and biologists have inhabited this rocky archipelago that juts out from the Atlantic Ocean 12 km (7 miles) from the mainland. Berlenga Grande, the biggest island, can be reached by ferry in about an hour. This island is a nature reserve with nesting sites for sea birds. On the southeast side of the island is the 17th-century pentagonal Forte de São João Baptista. This stark, stone fort suffered repeated assaults from pirates and foreign armies. Today it is a basic hostel.
Small boats can be hired from the jetty to explore the marine grottoes around the island. Furado Grande is the most spectacular of these; a 70-m (230-ft) tunnel, opening into the Covo do Sonho (Dream Cove) framed by imposing red granite cliffs.
t Stone fortress of São João on Berlenga Grande
Set on a peninsula, this small, pleasant town is partly enclosed by 16th-century walls. Totally dependent on its port, Peniche has good fish restaurants and deep-sea fishing facilities. At the water’s edge on the south side of town stands the 16th-century Fortaleza, used as a prison during the Salazar regime. The fortress was made famous by the escape in 1960 of the Communist leader Álvaro Cunhal. Inside, the Museu de Peniche offers a tour that includes a look into the prison cells. On Largo 5 de Outubro, the Igreja da Misericórdia has 17th-century painted ceiling panels depicting the Life of Christ, and patterned azulejo panels from the same period.
On the peninsula’s western headland, 2 km (1 mile) from Peniche, Cabo Carvoeiro affords grand views of the strange-shaped rocks along the eroded coastline. Here, the interior of the chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios is adorned with 18th-century tiles on the Life of the Virgin attributed to the workshop of António de Oliveira Bernardes.
" ⌂ Campo da República § 262 780 116 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun (from 10am Sat & Sun); last adm 30 mins before closing ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
! D4 ⌂ 3 km (2 miles) north of Peniche
This picturesque village, which bustles with water-front cafés, bars and restaurants, is squeezed on to a little islet on the coast. Baleal is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, with superb sandy beaches on either side. One side of the causeway is sheltered, making it the chosen spot for bathers, whilst the other, with its good breakers, is a surfers’ haunt. Unsurprisingly, Baleal is home to several surf schools offering lessons to beginners and organizing trips to nearby swells for more experienced practitioners. Vehicles are best left at the car parks on the mainland side of the causeway, from where it is an easy walk to the islet.
When King Dinis married Isabel of Aragon in 1282, Óbidos was given to her as a wedding present.
t Perched on the hilltop, the enchanting walled town of Óbidos
This enchanting hill town with whitewashed houses is enclosed within 14th-century walls. From the 13th century, Óbidos was an important port, but by the 16th century the river had silted up. The town has since been restored and preserved.
The entrance into the town is through the southern gate, Porta da Vila, whose interior is embellished with 18th-century tiles. Rua Direita, the main shopping street, leads to Praça de Santa Maria. Here, a Manueline pelourinho (pillory) is decorated with a fishing net, the emblem of Dona Leonor, wife of João II. She chose this emblem in honour of the fishermen who tried in vain to save her son from drowning.
Opposite the pillory is the church of Santa Maria, with a simple Renaissance portal. The future Afonso V was married to his cousin Isabel here in 1441. He was ten years old, she eight. The interior of the church retains a simple clarity with a painted wooden ceiling and 17th-century tiles. In the chancel, a retable depicting the Mystic Marriage of St Catherine (1661) is by Josefa de Óbidos. The artist lived most of her life in Óbidos and is buried in the church of São Pedro on Largo de São Pedro. Her work is also on display in the Museu Municipal.
Dominating Óbidos is the castle, rebuilt by Afonso Henriques after he took the town from the Moors in 1148. Today it is a charming pousada. The path along the battlements affords fine views.
Southeast of town is the Baroque Santuário do Senhor da Pedra, a church begun in 1740 to a hexagonal plan.
" ⌂ Solar da Praça de Santa Maria, Rua Direita § 262 959 299 # 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
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stay Casa das Marés 2 Overlooking the causeway and fine beach at Baleal, this family-run B&B offers stunning views and cosy interiors. ! D4 ⌂ Rua Raúl Brandão, Baleal ∑ casadasmares2.com ¡¡ ¡ Flattered Apartments Tastefully furnished one- or two-bedroom apartments in a traditional townhouse, near the main sights. ! E4 ⌂ Rua de Santa Iria 11 & 21, Tomar ∑ flatteredapartments.com ¡¡ ¡ Pousada Castelo Óbidos The rooms in this converted 15th-century castle feature four-poster beds and chandeliers. ! D4 ⌂ Paço Real, Óbidos ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡¡ |
This pleasant little resort, with its safe waters, is an exception to most of the others along this stretch of the coast, which are only recommended for surfers. Connected to the Atlantic Ocean by a small passage between the hills, São Martinho do Porto sits on a curving, almost landlocked bay, making its soft sands both safe and extremely appealing, especially for families. If you head south along the beach, it doesn’t take long to find a patch of sand to yourself, even in the height of summer.
Most of the largely modern resort buildings sit at the northern end of the bay, where you can hire kayaks and pedalos. Don’t miss the lift ride from the tourist office, which takes you up to a little viewpoint in the old part of São Martinho do Porto.
Great View
Walk up the steep path above the quayside to the lighthouse for sublime views across São Martinho do Porto and the bay.
t Pottery shop in Caldas da Rainha
The “queen’s hot springs”, a sprawling spa town, owes its prosperity to three different fields: thermal cures, ceramics and fruit farming. The town is named after Dona Leonor, founder of the Misericórdia hospital on Largo Rainha Dona Leonor. The original hospital chapel later became the impressive Manueline Igreja do Populo, built by Diogo Boitac. Inside is the 15th-century chapel of São Sebastião, decorated with 18th-century azulejos.
The shops on Rua da Liberdade sell ceramics, including the local green majolica ware. Examples of the work of the caricaturist and potter Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro (1846–1905) can be seen in the Museu de Cerâmica, in the ceramics factory. The Museu José Malhoa is dedicated to the artist known as “the painter of Portuguese sun and light”.
Saltwater Lagoa de Óbidos, 15 km (9 miles) west of Caldas da Rainha, is a calm, sheltered lagoon that is popular for sailing and fishing.
t Local ceramics
" ⌂ Rua Dr Ilídio Amado § 262 840 280 # 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm Apr–Oct) ¢ 1 Jan, 1 & 15 May, 25 Dec
Eastern statues stand out against the quintessential Portuguese landscape of cork and olive trees in these uniquely beautiful gardens. Disturbed by the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddha statues by the Taliban in Afghanistan in 2001, José Berardo – a wealthy philanthropist – designated the Bacalhôa Buddha Eden Gardens as a place for everyone to enjoy regardless of their wealth, ethnicity, religion or sexual orientation.
Explore the charmingly landscaped lawns, deeply wooded areas and a central lake, while admiring over 200 Eastern-inspired sculptures, statues and modern art at every turn. Many of these are of Buddha, including a 21-m- (69-ft-) high “Giant Buddha” and an enormous reclining figure. You’ll also encounter cobalt blue replicas of the Xi’an Terracotta Warriors from China, as well as a fascinating separate section for imaginative contemporary and African sculptures.
You could easily spend half a day wandering around the spacious gardens, but there’s also a land train which beetles through the gardens. Don’t miss trying the estate’s wine, which is sold at the on-site restaurant, café and shop.
t A fisherman hanging out his nets to dry on the beach at Nazaré
Beside a glorious beach in a sweeping bay backed by steep cliffs, this fishing village is a popular summer resort that has maintained some of its traditional character. Fishermen dressed in checked shirts and black stocking caps, and fishwives wearing several layers of petticoats can still be seen mending nets and drying fish on wire racks on the beach. The bright boats with tall prows that were once hauled from the sea by oxen are still used, although now they have a proper anchorage south of the beach. According to legend, the name Nazaré comes from a statue of the Virgin Mary brought to the town by a monk from Nazareth in the 4th century.
High on the cliff above the town is Sítio, reached by a funicular that climbs 110 m (360 ft). At the cliff edge stands the tiny Ermida da Memória. This is said to be where the Virgin Mary saved Dom Fuas Roupinho, a local dignitary, and his horse from following a deer that leapt off the cliff in a sea mist in 1182. Across the square from this chapel, the 17th-century church of Nossa Senhora da Nazaré, with two Baroque belfries and 18th-century tiles inside, contains an anonymous painting of the miraculous rescue. The church also contains the revered image of Our Lady of Nazaré. In September this statue is borne down to the sea in a traditional procession.
The Visigothic church of São Gião, 5 km (3 miles) south of Nazaré, has fine sculpting and well-proportioned arches.
Rodrigo Koxa mastered the largest wave ever surfed, 80 ft (24 m) high, at Nazaré.
Originally a Moorish fort, and rebuilt over the centuries by successive Christian kings, a rather fanciful castle perches on a hill above the small town of Porto de Mós. Its present appearance, with green cone-shaped turrets and an exquisite loggia, was the inspired work of King Afonso IV’s master builders in 1420.
In the town below, the 13th-century church of São João Baptista retains its original Romanesque portal. In the public gardens is the richly decorated Baroque church of São Pedro. Just off the Praça da República, the Museu Municipal displays a varied collection of local finds dating back to Roman remains and dinosaur bones. More modern exhibits include the local mós (millstones), as well as present-day ceramics and woven rugs.
The area south of Porto de Mós is dotted with vast and spectacular underground caverns with odd rock formations and festoons of stalactites and stalagmites. The Grutas de Mira de Aire, 17 km (11 miles) southeast, are the biggest, descending 110 m (360 ft) into tunnels and walkways around subterranean lakes. A tour through caverns with names such as the “Jewel Room”, past bizarre rocks dubbed “Chinese Hat” or “Jellyfish”, ends in a theatrical light-and-water show.
t Porto de Mós castle, towering over the town's red roofs
⌂ Travessa de São Pedro § 244 499 652 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat ¢ Public hols
" ⌂ Av Dr Luciano Justo Ramos § 244 440 322 # Daily
An episcopal city since 1545, Leiria is set in attractive countryside on the banks of the Lis river. Originally the Roman town of Collipo, it was recaptured from the Moors by Afonso Henriques in the 12th century. In 1254, Afonso III held a cortes here, the first parliament attended by common laymen.
The resplendent hilltop Castelo de Leiria was part of the defence system of central Portugal. In the early 1300s, King Dinis turned the castle into a royal residence for himself and his queen, Isabel of Aragon. Within the battlements is the Gothic church of Nossa Senhora da Pena. The view from the castle loggia overlooks the Pinhal de Leiria and the town below.
The old town is full of charm, with graceful arcades and the small 12th-century church of São Pedro on Largo de São Pedro. The muted 16th-century Sé above Praça Rodrigues Lobo has an altarpiece in the chancel painted in 1605 by Simão Rodrigues. From Avenida Marquês de Pombal, opposite the castle, an 18th-century stairway ascends to the elaborate 16th-century Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Encarnação. The small Baroque interior is tightly packed with colourful geometric azulejo panels and 17th-century paintings of the Life of the Virgin.
" ⌂ Largo de São Pedro § 244 839 670 # Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec
The Marquês de Pombal was banished to Pombal from Lisbon in 1777 by Queen Maria.
This small town of whitewashed houses is overlooked by the stately castle, founded in 1161 by the Knights Templar. The town is closely associated with the Marquês de Pombal. In Praça Marquês de Pombal, the old prison and the celeiro (granary) are adorned with the Pombal family crest. The Museu Marquês de Pombal features a collection of documents and artworks focusing on the Marquis.
t Fátima's basilica
The sanctuary of Fátima is a pilgrim destination on a par with Lourdes in France. The Neo-Baroque limestone basilica, flanked by statues of saints, has a huge tower and an esplanade twice the size of St Peter’s Square in Rome.
On 12 and 13 of May and October, vast crowds of pilgrims arrive to commemorate appearances of the Virgin to three shepherd children (the three pastorinhos). On 13 May 1917, 10-year-old Lucia Santos and her young cousins, Jacinta and Francisco Marto, saw a shining figure in a holm oak tree. The apparition ordered the children to return to the tree on the same day for six months and by 13 October, 70,000 pilgrims were with the children by the tree. Only Lucia heard the “Secret of Fátima”, spoken on her last appearance. The first part of the secret was a vision of hell; the second was of a war more devastating than World War I. The third part, a vision of papal assassination, was finally revealed by Pope John Paul II on the occasion of the millennium. The Pope beatified Jacinta and Francisco in 2000. Their tombs are inside the basilica. Lucia became a nun, and died in 2005.
Stained-glass windows show scenes of the sightings. In the esplanade, the Capela das Aparições marks the site of the apparition. But for many the best sight is the emotion and faith of the penitents who approach the shrine on their knees. Wax limbs are burned as offerings for miracles performed by the Virgin and candles light the esplanade during the night-time Masses.
t Fátima's basilica, with its lovely stained-glass windows
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
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eat Tromba Rija A homely restaurant with a generous starter buffet that gives the chance to sample Portuguese delicacies. ! D4 ⌂ Rua Professores Portela 22, Leiria ¢ Mon & Sun D ∑ trobarija.com ¡¡¡ Tia Alice Chef Tia Alice creates exquisite regional dishes at this simple rustic restaurant. ! D4 ⌂ Rua do Adro 152, Fátima § 249 531 737 ¢ Mon & Sun D ¡¡ ¡ |
! D4 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles) northeast of Fátima
The medieval town of Ourém is a walled citadel, dominated by the 15th-century castle of Ourém, built by Afonso, grandson of Nuno Álvares Pereira. His magnificent tomb is in the 15th-century Igreja Matriz. The town’s name is said to derive from Oureana, a Moorish girl who, before she fell in love with a Christian knight and converted, was called Fátima.
! D4 ⌂ Estrada de Fátima, Bairro # Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun ∑ pegadasdedinossaurios.org
In a former quarry in the heart of the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire, you will find these superbly preserved dinosaur footprints. Discovered in 1994, they belong to sauropods that, at 30 m (98 ft) in length, were some of the largest land animals to have ever lived.
In the late Triassic Period, the area was a shallow lagoon. As the dinosaurs made their way through the sediments, they left prints, which then solidified into limestone.
There are hundreds of tracks to follow, including one set of prints that is 147 m (482 ft) in length – by studying the tracks experts can estimate the size of the animals. You can also take the walkway around the open-air museum and watch an informative film at the ticket office, which explains more about these herbivorous giants that once lived here some 200 million years ago.
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
The author of Portugal’s celebrated epic poem, Os Lusìadas, had a passionate nature. Banished from court, he enlisted in 1547 and set sail for North Africa, where he lost an eye. Imprisoned after another brawl, he agreed to serve his country in India, but his was the only ship from the fleet to survive the stormy seas. This experience gave his subsequent poem, published in 1572, its vibrant power.
Perhaps there once was a “Castle of the Billygoat”, but today the name refers to a large dam (barragem) that blocks the flow of the Zêzere river 10 km (6 miles) upstream from its confluence with the Tagus. Construction of the dam began in 1946 to serve the first of Portugal’s hydroelectric power stations. Above it, a long, sprawling lake nestles between hills covered in pine and eucalyptus forests. Between the trees lie small, isolated villages. The valley is a secluded area popular for boating, fishing and watersports and it is possible to hire equipment from centres along the lake shore. Canoes, windsurf boards and water-skis can be found at the Centro Naútico do Zêzere, in Castanheira on the western side of the lake, and the Centro Naútico de Castelo do Bode (www.mbp.pai.pt). Yachting facilities are usually available from the lakeside hotels, such as the peaceful Estalagem Lago Azul (www.estalagemlagoazul.com). A cruise can also be taken from the hotel, stop-ping at the sandy beaches and small islands. There are some great spots for swimming, including the so-called river beaches of Alverangel, Montes and Castenheira, locally known as the Lago Azul because of its deep blue colour.
t Castelo de Bode, the dam that controls the flow of the Zêzere river
t Statue of Francisco de Almeida in front of the castle at Abrantes
Grandly situated above the Tagus river, the town of Abrantes was once of strategic importance. It had a vital role in the Reconquista, and during the Peninsular War both the French General Junot and the Duke of Wellington made it a base. The defensive walls of the early-13th-century ruined fortress that overlooks the town and the surrounding flatlands is a reminder of its important status.
The 15th-century church of Santa Maria do Castelo, within the castle walls, is now the small Museu Dom Lopo de Almeida. Besides an extensive collection of local archaeological finds, sculpture, vestments, ethnography and sacred art, it houses the tombs of the Almeida family, counts of Abrantes, and the richest and most remarkable nucleus of Sevillian dry-stone tiles in the country.
On Rua da República, the Misericórdia church, constructed in 1584, has six magnificent religious panels attributed to Gregório Lopes (1490–1550).
The 16th-century church of São Tiago e São Mateus, located in the unspoiled town of Sardoal, 8 km (5 miles) north of Abrantes, holds a compelling thorn-crowned Christ by the 16th-century painter, the Master of Sardoal. An 18th-century tile panel on the façade of the Capela do Espírito Santo, in Praça da República, honours Gil Vicente, the 16th-century playwright who was born here.
⌂ Rua Capitão Correia de Lacerda § 241 371 724 # Tue–Sun
t Walking trail near the village of Constância, running beside the Zêzere river
The pretty whitewashed town of Constância nurtures the memory of the poet Luís Vaz de Camões, who lived here for three years before he was banished from court in 1546 for writing a love sonnet to a lady who was also favoured by King João III. The riverside gardens seen today were influenced by those described in his poem Os Lusiadas.
The town sits on the confluence of the Tagus and Zêzere rivers, and there are lovely local walks along their shores.
Dramatically set on a tiny island in the Tagus, this enchanting castle was built over a Roman fortress in 1171 by Gualdim Pais. Legends of this magical place abound. A 16th-century verse romance called Palmeirim de Inglaterra weaves an intricate tale of giants and knights, as well as the fight of the crusader Palmeirim for the lovely Polinarda. Some say the castle is haunted by the ghost of a princess sighing for the love of her Moorish slave.
Great View
With a car, head to Bar do Castelo, off the M1191. This little bar is on the opposite bank of the Tagus to Castelo de Almourel, making it a great spot to enjoy a refreshing drink and take a photo.
t Praça Sá da a Bandeira, a square at the heart of Santarém’s old townEATSabores
The lively district capital of the Ribatejo, overlooking the Tagus, has an illustrious past. To Julius Caesar it was an important bureaucratic centre, Praesidium Julium. To the Moors it was the stronghold of Xantarim. To the Portuguese kings, Santarém was the site of many gatherings of the cortes (parliaments).
At the centre of the old town, in Praça Sá da a Bandeira, is the vast Igreja do Seminário, a multi-windowed Baroque edifice built by João IV for the Jesuits in 1640 on the site of a royal palace. The huge interior has a painted wooden ceiling and marble and gilt ornamentation. From here, Rua Serpa Pinto runs southeast past a cluster of older buildings. The lofty Igreja de Marvila, built in the 12th century and later altered, has a Manueline portal and is lined with dazzling early-17th-century diamond-patterned azulejo panels. The medieval 22-m- (72-ft-) high Torre das Cabaças was once a clock tower and now houses a small museum of time. Opposite the tower, the Museu Arqueológico was formerly the Romanesque church of São João de Alporão.
Rua Serpa Pinto leads into Rua 5 de Outubro and up to the Jardim das Portas do Sol, built on the site of a Moorish castle. The gardens are enclosed by the city’s medieval walls.
Returning into town, on Largo Pedro Álvares Cabral, the 14th-century Igreja da Graça has a spectacular rose window carved from a single stone. Further south, the 14th-century Igreja do Santíssimo Milagre, on Rua Braamcamp Freire, has a Renaissance interior and 16th-century azulejos.
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
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eat Sabores da Cascata With a fine terrace overlooking the Tejo, this eatery serves delicious Ribatejan specialities. ! E4 ⌂ Edifício de São Domingos, Rua de São Domingos, 2nd floor, Abrantes § 241 364 453 ¡¡¡ Taberna do Quinzena I Established in 1872, this traditional restaurant serves local fare such as goat and bacalhau. ! D4 ⌂ Rua Pedro de Santarém 93–95, Santarém ¢ Sun ∑ quinzena.com ¡¡¡ |
Animated streets and fine churches cluster beneath the castle walls of this handsome town. The ruins of the 12th-century fortress now enclose a garden. Just below the castle is the 16th-century Misericórdia church with a Renaissance portal and an interior lined with colourful “carpet” azulejos from 1674. The Igreja de Santiago, on Largo do Paço, was probably built in 1203, although a gilded retable with a wood carving of the young Jesus assisting Joseph in his carpentry is a 17th-century addition.
In the centre of town is the Museu Municipal de Carlos Reis, named after the painter Carlos Reis (1863–1940), who was born here. The museum contains paintings by 19th- and early-20th-century artists and a 15th-century Gothic figure of Nossa Senhora do Ó.
⌂ Rua do Salvador § 249 812 535 # 9am–12:30pm, 2pm–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun) ¢ Public hols
t Horses and riders parading at the annual Feira Nacional do Cavalo in Golegã
Usually a quiet town, Golegã is overrun during the first two weeks of November by horse enthusiasts who throng to the annual Feira Nacional do Cavalo. This horse fair coincides with the tasting of the year’s new wine on St Martin’s Day (11 November). On this day, revelers drink the young wine, known as agua-pé (literally, “foot water”).
In the centre of town, the 16th-century Igreja Matriz, attributed to Diogo Boitac, has an exquisite Manueline portal and an interior rich in azulejos. The small Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas is housed in the elegant Art Nouveau house and studio of the photographer (1838–94).
" ⌂ Largo Dom Manuel I § 249 979 120 # 9:30am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Jun–Sep) ¢ Public hols
Set in the vast, fertile plain known as the Lezíria, which stretches east of the Tagus and is famous for horse breeding, Alpiarça is a small, neat town. The fine twin-towered parish church, on Rua José Relvas, is dedicated to Santo Eustáquio, patron saint of the town. Built in the late 19th century, it houses paintings from the 17th century, including a charming Divine Shepherdess in the sacristy in which the young Jesus is shown conversing with a sheep.
On the southern outskirts of town is the striking Casa Museu dos Patudos, surrounded by vineyards. This was the residence of the wealthy and cultivated José Relvas (1858–1929), an art collector and – briefly – premier of the Republic. The exterior of this eye-catching country house, built for him by Raúl Lino in 1905–9, has simple whitewashed walls and a green-and-white striped spire. The colonnaded loggia, reached via an outside staircase, is lined with azulejo panels. The museum contains Relvas’s personal collection of fine and decorative art. Renaissance paintings include Virgin with Child and St John by the school of Leonardo da Vinci and Christ in the Tomb by the German school. There are also paintings by Delacroix and Zurbarán as well as many works by 19th-century Portuguese artists, including 30 by Relvas’s friend, José Malhôa. Relvas also collected exquisite porcelain, bronzes, furniture and Oriental rugs, as well as early Portuguese Arraiolos carpets, including a particularly fine one in silk.
" ⌂ 2 km (1 mile) S of Alpiarça on N118 § 243 558 321 # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
Feijoada
Paprika-spiced stew of beans and vegetables, with cured meat.
Caldeirada da Peixe
A stew of fish, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.
Favas à Portuguesa
Fava beans combined with morcela (blood sausage) and pork ribs.
Arroz Doce
Lemon zest-scented rice pudding with cinnamon.
Magusto
A purée of dry maize and white bread blended with water and kale, served with bacalhau.
Sitting beside the Tagus, this town has a reputation larger than its modest appearance suggests. Traditionally the area has been the centre for bull-and-horse rearing communities. Twice a year, crowds flock here to participate in the bull-running through the streets and watch the tourada and traditional horsemanship. The animated and gaudy Festa do Colete Encarnado (named after the red waistcoat worn by campinos, the Ribatejo herdsmen) takes place over several days in early July. The festival is a lively occasion with folk dancing, boat races on the Tagus and sardines grilled in the street. A similar festival, the Feira de Outubro, takes place in October.
Archaeological exhibits and artifacts relating to regional history are on display in the Museu Municipal. A collec-tion of Neo-Realist literature and art dating from the early 20th century, meanwhile, is found in the Museu do Neo-Realismo, which comprises a library and exhibition space.
The town centre retains an exuberantly tile-covered market dating from the 1920s. Further east, on Largo da Misericórdia, striking 18th-century azulejos adorn the chancel of the Misericórdia church. South of town, the Ponte Marechal Carmona, built in 1951, is the only bridge across the Tagus between Santarém to the north and Lisbon to the south.
t Admiring the collection in the Museu do Neo-Realismo, Vila Franca de Xira
⌂ Rua Serpa Pinto 65 § 263 280 350 # 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
⌂ Rua Alves Redol 45 § 263 285 626 # 10am–6:30pm daily
Coruche is an attractive little town in the heart of bullfighting country with a riverside location overlooking the Lezíria, the wide open plain that stretches east of the Tagus river. The town, inhabited since Palaeolithic times, was razed to the ground in 1180 by the Moors as reprisal against the reconquering Christians.
In the central pedestrian street, Rua de Santarém, the O Coruja café is lined with vivid modern azulejo panels showing bulls in the Lezíria, the town’s bullring and scenes of local life. A short walk up the street stands the tiny church of São Pedro. Inside, the church is completely covered with 17th-century blue-and-yellow carpet tiles. An azulejo panel on the altar front shows St Peter surrounded by birds and animals. Above the town stands the simple 12th-century blue- and-white church of Nossa Senhora do Castelo. From here there are excellent views over the fertile agricultural land and cork oaks of the Sorraia valley and the Lezíria.
t Vineyard at Alenquer, an area known for its wine production
Vila Alta, the old part of town, climbs steeply up the slopes of the hillside, high above the newer town by the river. In the central Praça Luís de Camões, the 15th-century church of São Pedro contains the tomb of the humanist chronicler and native son, Damião de Góis (1502–74). Pêro de Alenquer, a navigator for the explorers Bartolomeu Dias in 1488 and Vasco da Gama in 1497, was also born here. Uphill, near the ruins of a 13th-century castle, the monastery church of São Francisco retains a Manueline cloister and a 13th-century portal. Founded in 1222, this was Portugal’s first Franciscan monastery.
Hidden Gem
Just 5 km (3 miles) northwest of Alenquer, at Meca, you’ll find the huge Neo-Classical Basílica de Santa Quitéria. A blessing of cattle takes place at this beautiful 18th-century church each May.
The town is closely linked with the Lines of Torres Vedras, fortified defenses built by the Duke of Wellington to repel Napoleon’s troops during the Peninsular War. North of the town, near the restored fort of São Vicente, traces of trenches and bastions are still visible, but along most of the lines the forts and earthworks have gone, buried by time and rapid change.
Above the town, the restored walls of the 13th-century castle embrace a shady garden and the church of Santa Maria do Castelo. Down in the town, on Praça 25 de Abril, a memorial to those who died in the Peninsular War stands in front of the 16th-century Convento da Graça. Today the convent houses the well-lit Museu Municipal. A room devoted to the Peninsular War displays a model of the lines; other interesting exhibits include a 15th-century Flemish School Retábulo da Vida da Virgem.
Open for Mass at weekends, the monastery church, Igreja da Graça, has a 17th-century gilded altarpiece. In a niche in the chancel is the tomb of São Gonçalo de Lagos.
Beyond the pedestrian Rua 9 de Abril, the Manueline church of São Pedro greets the visitor with an exotic winged dragon on the portal. The interior has a painted wooden ceiling and walls adorned with colourful 18th-century azulejo panels depicting scenes of daily life. Behind the church, on Rua Cândido dos Reis, stands a pretty 16th-century water fountain that is worth seeing, the Chafariz dos Canos (Fountain of the Pipes).
" ⌂ Praça 25 de Abril § 261 310 484 # Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec
t Traditional tiles decorating the Convento da Graça, Torres Vedras
Experience Estremadura and Ribatejo
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drink Museu Rural e do Vinho The banks of the Tagus river are well known for their vineyards: take the N118 north of Santarém and you pass many signs for vinho do produtor (wine producer), where you can stop and buy local produce. A good place to learn about the wines is at the Museum Rural e do Vinho, which also offers tastings in a restored adega (wine bar). ! D4 ⌂ Rua 25 de Abril, Cartaxo § 243 701 257 ¢ Mon |