t The yellow façades of buildings on the front of Funchal’s harbour
B7 k Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport, 18 km (11 miles) NE @ Avenida do Mar g n Avenida Arriaga 16; 291 211 902
The deep natural harbour of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, attracted early settlers in the 15th century. The city’s historic core still overlooks the harbour and has an air of grandeur, with its stately 18th-century houses.
t The yellow façades of buildings on the front of Funchal’s harbour
Experience Madeira
n Double-tap image to read the labels
⌂ Largo da Sé § 291 228 155 # 9–11am, 3–5pm Mon–Fri
The cathedral is one of the few buildings in Madeira to have survived virtually untouched since the early days of the island’s colonization. In the 1490s, King Manuel I sent the architect Pêro Anes from the mainland to work on the Sé and it was finally completed in 1514.
The highlights are the ceiling and the choir stalls, though neither is easy to see in the dark interior. The ceiling of inlaid wood is best seen from the south transept, where enough light filters in to illuminate the intricate patterning. The choir stalls depict saints, prophets and Apostles in 16th-century costume. Aspects of Madeiran life feature on the armrests and seats: one cherub carries a bunch of bananas, another has a goatskin full of wine.
⌂ Rua do Bispo 21 § 291 228 900 # 10am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun ¢ Public hols
Madeiran merchants sought to secure their salvation by commissioning works of art, embroidered vestments and illuminated hymn books for their churches. Hundreds of examples now fill this museum, housed in the 17th-century bishop’s palace. There are some masterpieces in the collection, such as the late-Gothic processional cross donated by King Manuel I, and paintings by major Flemish artists of the 15th and 16th centuries. Some works include portraits of the dignitaries who commissioned them. For example, Saints Philip and James shows Simão Gonçalves de Câmara.
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DRINK The Old Blandy Wine Lodge Take a guided tour, sampling wines made here more than 150 years ago, as well as more recent (and cheaper) vintages. ⌂ Av Arriaga 28 ¢ Sun ∑ blandyswinelodge.com |
Rua de Santa Maria is the place for street art (www.arteportasabertas.com).
⌂ Calçada do Pico 1 § 291 740 670 # 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
It is said that Zarco, the man who claimed Madeira for Portugal, built his house where the Quinta das Cruzes now stands. The elegant 19th-century mansion is now the Museum of Decorative Arts, and it is furnished as a wealthy Madeiran sugar merchant’s house with Indian silk wall hangings, Regency sideboards and Oriental carpets. On the ground floor, look out for the examples of furniture made from mahogany packing cases. In the 17th century, these would have been used for shipping sugar before being turned into charming chests and cupboards when the sugar trade moved to Brazil in the 18th century.
The romantic garden is dotted with ancient tombstones and architectural fragments. These include two window frames from 1507 carved with rope motifs, acrobatic figures and man-eating lions in a Madeiran version of the Manueline style of architecture.
t Manueline-style window frame in the gardens of the Museu Quinta das Cruzes
⌂ Calçada de Santa Clara § 291 742 602 # 10am–noon, 3–5pm Mon– Sat, 10am–noon Sun
t The interior of the Convento de Santa Clara, with its beautiful azulejos
The Convento de Santa Clara was founded in 1496 by João Gonçalves de Câmara, one of Zarco’s grandsons. Zarco himself is buried under the high altar, and Martim Mendes Vasconcelos, his son-in-law,
has a tomb at the rear of the church. Precious 17th-century azulejo tiles cover the walls.
⌂ Quinta do Bom Sucesso, Caminho do Meio § 291 211 200 # Daily
t The colourful, geometric flowerbeds in the Jardim Botânico
Established in 1960, the Botanical Gardens display plants from all over the world. Desert cacti, rainforest orchids and South African proteas are all represented here, as well as Madeiran dragon trees. There are contrasting sections: formal areas of bedding plants, which form a pink-and-yellow chessboard, quiet carp ponds and wild wooded parts.
Experience Madeira
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SHOP Mercado dos Lavradores Full of the colour and bustle of island life, the Mercado dos Lavradores attracts flower-growers, basket-weavers, farmers and fishermen from all over Madeira. Stallholders offer slices of mango to punters and marble tables are draped with great slabs of tuna and black-skinned scabbard fish, with huge eyes and razor-sharp teeth. ⌂ Largo dos Lavradores § 291 214 080 # Mon–Sat ¢ Public hols |
⌂ Avenida Sá Carneiro, Praça do Mar 27 # 10am–6pm Mon–Sat ∑ museucr7.com
You’ll be greeted at this museum dedicated to Madeira’s most famous son by a bronze stature of the footballer Christiano Ronaldo (thankfully it’s a lot more lifelike than the bust at Funchal’s airport). Proclaimed as the best soccer player of the 21st century by some, Ronaldo has impressed the footballing world while representing Sporting Lisbon, Manchester United and Real Madrid. Here, he is most respected for his captaincy of the Portuguese team.
The museum houses more than 150 of his trophies, although many are replicas. You can admire various signed shirts, read gushing fan mail, and watch recordings of some of his greatest goals on an interactive timeline of his career.
t Replica trophies on display in the Museu CR7
⌂ Estrada da Pontinha, Forte de Nossa Senhora da Conceição # 11am– 7pm daily ∑ niniandradesilva.com
Dedicated to one of the world’s most renowned interior designers, this beautifuly curated space showcases Nini Andrade Silva’s highly original work. The Funchal-born artist has been awarded many national and international awards for her designs and her hotel interiors are often featured in glossy magazines.
As well as the permanent exhibition of Silva’s work, the centre also hosts a dynamic programme of temporary exhibitions by other cutting-edge designers.
Futuristic chairs and atmospheric lighting enhance the Design Centre’s historic setting. Accessed via a lift, the centre sits atop the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Conceição – a seafort which was once home to Gonçalves Zarco. The views across the harbour from the fort, which was built on a rocky islet, are spectacular. Take advantage of the vistas by heading up to the DC Lounge Cafeteria or Restaurant DC Atelier for drinks or dinner once you’ve explored the exhibitions.
There are plenty of swimming opportunities in Madeira’s capital. Locals tend to swim in the small Barreirinha Lido, next to the Fortaleza de São Tiago, or in the sea here. If the thought of swimming in the Atlantic makes you shiver, head to the municipal lido in the Hotel Zone, which has an Olympic-sized seawater pool, as well as slides and pools for kids. There are similar facilities to be found at the Complexo Balnear da Ponta Grande.