Most restaurants close between lunch and dinner. English-language menus are not common, but many eateries have plastic food displays in their windows. For up-to-date information on Tokyo’s dynamic restaurant scene, check out the Tokyo Food Page (www.bento.com) or the reviews in The Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp) and Metropolis (http://metropolisjapan.com). Yelp and Trip Advisor are beginning to take root but reviews are still often in their infancy.
Prices for a three-course meal, excluding beverages:
¥¥¥¥ = over ¥5,000
¥¥¥ = ¥3,000–5,000
¥¥ = ¥1,000–3,000
¥ = below ¥1,000
Marunouchi and Ginza
Andy’s Shin-Hinomoto
2-4-4 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3214 8021; www.andysfish.com; Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight; station: Yurakucho; ¥
Also known as Andy’s Fish, this noisy, friendly no-nonsense izakaya (tavern) is built under the railway tracks, serving fresh seafood at reasonable prices. British owner presides over his Japanese family’s establishment. English-speaking. Cash only. Partially smoking.
Aux Amis des Vins
2-5-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3567 4120; www.auxamis.com/desvins; Mon–Fri 11.30am–1.30pm and 5.30pm–11pm, Fri 11.30am–1.30 and 6–10.30pm Sat, Sun 11.30am–10pm; station: Ginza; ¥¥¥
Good French cuisine in the middle ground between bistro and haute, in a casual setting, with an extensive wine cellar. Reservations advised. No smoking.
Bird Land
B1F Tsukamoto Sozan Building, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 5250 1081; http://ginza-birdland.sakura.ne.jp/; Tue–Sat 5–9.30pm; station: Ginza; ¥¥¥
Top-quality yakitori (grilled skewers of chicken), made with free-range chicken grilled over charcoal. Don’t miss the sansai-yaki (chicken breast grilled with Japanese pepper). Reservations advised. No smoking.
Chilled udon noodles with shredded seaweed and grated daikon radish
JNTO
Dhaba India
2-7-9 Yaesu, Chuo-ku; tel: 3272 7160; www.dhabaindia.com/dhaba/index.html;
Mon–Fri 11.15am–2.30pm and 5–10pm, Sat–Sun noon–2.30pm and 5–9pm; station: Kyobashi; ¥¥
Fragrant curries, generous thali meals and masala dhosas. The best South Indian cuisine in the city. No smoking.
Elio Locanda Italiana
2-5-2 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3239 6771; www.elio.co.jp/en/; Mon–Sat 11.45am–2.15pm and 5.45–10.15pm; station: Hanzomon; ¥¥¥
Elio Orsara’s fresh pasta, Calabrian country soups and excellent southern Italian food come highly recommended. No smoking.
Little Okinawa
8-7-10 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3572 2930; www.little-okinawa.co.jp; Mon–Fri 5pm–2am, Sat 5pm–11pm, Sun 4–10pm; station: Shinbashi; ¥¥
This cozy bar-restaurant showcases the food of subtropical Okinawa. Plenty of pork, stir-fries featuring bitter melon, and Chinese-style noodles, all washed down with potent awamori liquor. Service charge ¥500.
Ohmatsuya
7F, 5-6-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3571 7053; Mon–Sat 5.30–10pm; station: Ginza; ¥¥¥¥
Refined traditional fare in a rustic setting evoking rural Yamagata. Charcoal-grill beef and seafood at your table.
Otako Honten
2-2-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3243 8282; Mon–Fri 11.30am–1.30pm and 5pm–10.15pm, Sat 4pm–9.45pm; station: Ginza; ¥
Sit at the counter, sip sake and nibble on oden (fish, tofu, eggs and vegetables simmered in a savory broth): blue-collar comfort food. Cash only.
Rangetsu
3-5-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3567 1021; www.ginza-rangetsu.com/english/index.html; daily 11.30am–9.30pm; station: Ginza; ¥¥¥¥
Refined Japanese cuisine based around shabu-shabu (hotpot) and sukiyaki (one-pot meal), featuring premium Wagyu beef cooked at the table. Service charge 10 percent after 4pm. Partially non smoking.
A seafood soup
JNTO
Salt by Luke Mangan
6F Shin-Marunouchi Building, 1-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 5288 7828; Mon–Sat 11am–2.30pm and 5.30–10pm, Sun 5.30–9pm; station: Tokyo; ¥¥¥
Australian celebrity-chef Luke Mangan’s venture features fabulous seafood and a fine cellar of Antipodean wines in a sleek setting. Attached is the W.W wine bar (tel: 5288-7829). In the same building on the seventh floor is Marunouchi-House (www.marunouchi-house.com), a series of casual restaurants, cafés and bars with access to a broad terrace. No smoking.
Ten-Ichi Ginza Honten
6-6-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel: 3571 1949; www.tenichi.co.jp; daily 11.30am–10pm; station: Ginza; ¥¥¥¥
Tokyo’s best-known tempura house, serving high-end meals of deep-fried battered seafood and vegetables in a great ambience. No smoking.
Ten-mo
4-1-3 Nihombashi-Motomachi, Chuo-ku; tel: 3241 7035; www.tenmo.jp/e-index.html; Mon–Fri noon–2pm and 5–8pm, Sat noon–2pm; station: Nihonbashi; ¥¥¥
This old-style tempura shop prepares exquisite morsels of seafood and vegetables fried in rich sesame oil. The counter seats just six, so reservations are essential. No smoking.
Roppongi and Akasaka
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
2F, Roppongi Hills Hillside, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: 5772 7500; www.robuchon.jp/latelier-en; daily 11.30am–2.30pm and 6–9.30pm; station: Roppongi; ¥¥¥
Robuchon’s tapas-influenced cuisine blends informal and sophisticated, but need not break the bank. Counter seating looking into the open kitchen. No smoking.
Butagumi
2-24-9 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; tel: 5466 6775; www.butagumi.com/nishiazabu/about.html; Tue–Sun 11.30am–2pm and 6pm–10pm; station: Roppongi; ¥¥
A traditional setting for one of Tokyo’s finest renditions of tonkatsu – deep-fried, breaded premium pork cutlets. Choose fatty rosu or lean filet or Iberian. English spoken. No smoking.
Chinese Café Eight
2F, Court Annex, 3-2-13 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; tel: 5414 5708; http://en.cceight.com; daily 24 hours; station: Roppongi; ¥¥
Budget Chinese diner open round the clock, serving Peking duck (for three or four people) dumplings and simple stir-fries at bargain prices. They also have branches in Ebisu and Akasaka.
Daigo
2F Forest Tower, 2-3-1 Atago, Minato-ku; tel: 3431 0811; http://atago-daigo.jp/en/; daily 11.30am–2pm, 5–8pm; station: Onarimon; ¥¥¥¥
Buddhist temple cooking elevated to supreme levels of refinement. The extended vegetarian banquets feature 10–15 courses of exquisite complexity, served in private rooms. Allow plenty of time. Reservations essential. Cancellation fee (30%) will be charged for same-day cancellation. Partially non smoking.
Fresh sashimi
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
Fukuzushi
5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: 3402 4116; Mon–Sat 11.30am–1.30pm and 6–10pm; station: Roppongi; ¥¥¥¥
Unfailingly good-quality sushi for the well-heeled Roppongi crowd. Expensive, but not snobbish or exclusive. Partially no smoking.
Inakaya East
5-3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: 3408 5040; www.roppongiinakaya.jp/en/index.html; daily 5–11pm; station: Roppongi; ¥¥¥¥
Chefs in traditional garb grill fish, meat and vegetables to order, then pass them on long wooden paddles across to where you are sitting. It’s theatrical and fun, but not cheap.
Kitchen 5
4-2-15 Nishi-azabu, Minato-ku; tel 3409-8835; http://magazine.kitchen5.jp; Tue, Wed, Fri, and Sat 6–9.30pm; station: Hiroo; ¥¥¥¥
International original cuisine crafted by Yuko Kobayashi. The restaurant closes every summer as Yuko travels the world to explore new recipe horizons. Cash only. No smoking.
Ninja
1F, Akasaka Tokyu Plaza, 2-14-3 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 5157 3936; www.ninjaakasaka.com; Mon–Sat 5–10.30pm, Sun 5–9.45pm; station: Akasaka; ¥¥¥
In this theme-restaurant black-clad waiters dressed like ninja spies show you to your private room, then entertain you as you nibble on simple Japanese food. Lots of fun for all the family.
Nodaiwa
1-5-4 Higashi-Azabu, Minato-ku; tel: 3583 7852; www.nodaiwa.co.jp/english.html; Mon–Sat 11am–1.30pm and 5–8pm; station: Kamiyacho; ¥¥¥
Charcoal-grilled fillets of unagi (eel) are daubed with a savoury sauce and served with rice. This is one of best places in Tokyo to try this unsung delicacy of Japanese cuisine.
Pintokona
B2F, Metrohat, 6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: 5771 1133; daily 11am–10pm; station: Roppongi; ¥¥¥
A stylish conveyor-belt sushi restaurant that stresses quality over quantity. Besides sushi, they also serve a range of light cooked dishes. No smoking.
Soba (buckwheat) noodles
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
Tofuya Ukai
4-4-13 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku; tel: 3436 1028; www.ukai.co.jp/english/shiba/index.html; daily 11am–8pm; station: Akabanebashi; ¥¥¥¥
Right below Tokyo Tower, this remarkable restaurant boasts traditional architecture and a beautiful rambling garden with carp ponds. Refined multi-course meals based around tofu are served in private rooms; fully vegetarian food is available by request. No smoking except for bar area.
Aoyama and Harajuku
Beacon
1-2-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; tel: 6418 0077; www.tysons.jp/beacon/en/; Mon–Fri 11.30am–3pm and 6–10pm, Sat–Sun until 9pm; stations: Shibuya or Omotesando; ¥¥¥¥
One the best steakhouses in the city, a sleek ‘urban chop house’ with good seafood and free-range chicken, and a huge cellar of Californian wines. Perfect for expense-account entertaining. Partially non smoking.
Benoit
10F La Port Aoyama, 5-51-8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku; tel: 6419 4181; www.benoit-tokyo.com/en/; daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 5.30–9.30pm; station: Omotesando; ¥¥¥
Of French master-chef Alain Ducasse’s two restaurants in Tokyo, this one is more informal, concentrating on Mediterranean flavors. No smoking.
Jap Cho Ok
B1F Alteka Belte Plaza, 4-1-15 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: 5410 3408; www.zasoya.com/; Mon–Sat 5.30pm–midnight, Sun and hols 5.30–10pm; station: Gaienmae; ¥¥
Stylish yet casual, Jap Cho Ok features seafood dishes and even Zen Buddhist vegetarian temple cooking alongside the usual Korean barbecue. Great decor. Partially no smoking.
Nataraj
B1F Sanwa-Aoyama Building, 2-22-19 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: 5474 0510; www.nataraj.co.jp/en/aoyama/E_AoyamaTop.shtml; Mon–Fri 11.30am–3pm, 6–11pm, Sat–Sun 11.30am–11pm; station: Gaienmae; ¥¥
Tokyo’s foremost Indian vegetarian restaurant serves grills and curries from the tandoor oven. Spice levels are mild but can be raised. See also locations in Ginza and Ogikubo. No smoking.
Pure Café
5-5-21 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: 5466 2611; www.pure-cafe.com; daily 8.30am–10pm; station: Omotesando; ¥
Self-service all-day café serving light additive-free and (almost) entirely vegan meals. Opens early for breakfast. No smoking.
Stylish Jap Cho Ok
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
Sasagin
1-32-15 Yoyogi-Uehara, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5454 3715; Mon–Sat 5–11pm; station: Yoyogi-uehara; ¥¥¥
A range of premium sake is served with creative modern Japanese cuisine in a casual setting. The master speaks English and will recommend the best brews.
Two Rooms
3-11-7 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: 3498 0002; www.tworooms.jp/en; daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 6–10pm (lounge & bar 11.30am–2am); station: Omotesando; ¥¥¥
Impeccably turned out clientele enjoys fashionable fusion cuisine from a veranda overlooking trendy Aoyama. Weekend brunches and evening bar hours are the times to see and be seen. Partially non smoking.
Yoroniku
B1 6-6-22 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: 3498 4629; Mon–Fri 6–11pm, Sat 5–11pm, Sun 5–10pm; ¥¥¥¥
High end, trendy yakiniku (Korean BBQ) restaurant where you can enjoy premium melt-in-your mouth wagyu beef as well as tongue and various entrails.
Shibuya and Ebisu
Afuri
1-1-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5795 0750; daily 11am–5am; station: Ebisu; ¥¥
Very popular savory ramen joint. Their yuzu shio (citrus salt flavor) ramen is hard to resist. Tsukemen (dipping noodle) is also their specialty. Cash only. No smoking. There are also locations in Harajuku, Roppongi Hills, Sangenjaya, Azabu-juban, Roppongi Crossing, and Nakameguro.
Chibo
38F Yebisu Garden Place Tower, 4-20-3 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5424 1011; www.chibo.com; Mon–Fri 11.30am–2.30pm and 5–10pm, Sat–Sun 11.30am–10pm; station: Ebisu; ¥¥
Okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) made on grills set in the table. Fun food and never expensive, plus a brilliant view. No smoking till 5pm.
Ebisu Imaiya Sohonten
1-7-11 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; tel: 4588 4273; Sat–Thur 5pm–1am, Fri 5pm–3am; station: Ebisu; ¥¥
The speciality is delectable free-range chicken, served either as yakitori (charcoal grilled) or in warming hot-pots before you. Spotless and efficient, and everything is explained in English. Service charge ¥480/person.
8F Seibu Shibuya, 21-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5728 4282; http://katumidori.co.jp/; daily 11am–10pm; station: Shibuya; ¥¥
Reasonable and high quality conveyor belt sushi place produced by high-end Midori sushi. Very popular, expect to wait for 30 minutes or longer. Bullet train will deliver your sushi when you order from iPad at the table. No smoking.
Open kitchens reveal craftsmen at work
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
Kitchen Bon
1-3-11 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku; tel: 3461 8538; Thu–Tue (except for 3rd Thu) 12.05–1.30pm and 6.05–8.15pm; station: Ebisu; ¥¥¥
A fine yoshoku (Japanese style Western food) restaurant that has been open more than 50 years. Due to the highest-grade ingredients they use, their dishes tend to be expensive. However everything here tastes hearty and the signature dish, Borusichi (Russian stew) is reasonable (¥1,500) and a must-have. Cash only. No smoking.
Sorano
4-17 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5728 5191; Mon-Sat 5–11pm, Sun 5–10.30pm; station: Shibuya; ¥¥¥
Simple and affordable tofu cuisine. Highlights are tofu shumai dumplings and yuba (soya milk ‘skin’) prepared at the table. English menu.
Sushi Ouchi
2-8-4 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; tel: 3407 3543; Mon–Sat 11.30am–1.40pm, 5.30–9.30pm; stations: Shibuya and Omotesando; ¥¥¥
Chef Ouchi plays classical music and prefers a dark-wood decor. All-natural ingredients: no farmed seafood and absolutely no MSG or other chemicals.
Shinjuku
Bistro Kri-Kri
3-38-12 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5388 9376; www.terra.dti.ne.jp/~hayate-7/; Tue–Sun 6pm–midnight; station: Sangubashi; ¥¥¥
Service tends to be slow, but this longtime favorite run by a bohemian couple is worth trying. Their hearty dishes are inspired by the Mediterranean and Middle East, and are complimented by a great selection of wine, and a warm and charming décor. Best to call for reservations.
Hayashi Sumiyaki
2-22-5 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3209 5672; Mon–Sat 5–12.30pm; station: Shinjuku; ¥¥
Around the sand hearth, dine on charcoal-grilled meat, fish or seasonal vegetables in a rustic setting. Partially no smoking.
Matsuya
1-1-17 Okubo, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3200 5733; daily11am–Midbight; station: Shin-Okubo; ¥
A long-established restaurant in Tokyo’s Little Seoul, where you sit on the floor at low tables. The speciality is fiery meat-laden stews cooked at the table.
New York Grill
52F Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 5322 1234; http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/NewYorkGrill.html; daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; stations: Shinjuku, Tochomae; ¥¥¥¥
Power dining with bravado in a sky-view setting in Shinjuku’s Park Hyatt Hotel (the setting for the film Lost in Translation). Sunday brunch with cocktails at the adjacent New York Bar is an institution for the expat community. No smoking.
Takoyaki
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
Restaurant Le Coupe Chou
1-15-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3348 1610; daily 11.30am–2pm, 5.30–10pm, closed 3rd Mon of month; station: Shinjuku; ¥¥
In Shinjuku’s electronics district, this retro French bistro offers a great-value ¥1,500 four-course lunch. Popular with the local office crowd. No smoking.
Robot Restaurant
B2F 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3200 5500; www.shinjuku-robot.com/; show starts daily from 4pm, 5.55pm, 7.55pm, 9.45pm; station: Shinjuku, Shinjuku Sanchome; ¥¥¥¥
Electric robot extravaganza with girlie show. Admission is ¥7,000. You can book online to get ¥500 discount. The tasteless bento (the only food option) gets poor reviews, but the performances by robots and sexy female dancers is spectacular and, some say, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Surprisingly they welcome children, although the admission price is the same as that for adults. Advance online reservations and arriving 30 minutes prior to the show is recommended. Partially non smoking.
Tokyo Soondubu
B1 3-30-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 5368 8778; www.tokyo-sundubu.net/; daily 11am–10pm; station: Shinjuku; ¥¥
Bubbling Korean hot pots with the silken tofu and your choice of meat or vegetable. You can choose the level of spiciness and soup broth type from salt, Japanese miso, and Korean miso. No smoking.
Zauo
1F Shinjuku Washington Hotel, 3-2-9 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3343 6622; www.zauo.com/en/; Mon–Fri 11.30–2pm and 5–10pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am–10pm; station: Shinjuku; ¥¥¥
Fishing-themed fun restaurant. Tables are arranged around a huge fish tank; diners are invited to catch their own dinner. Great fun for the family. (Fishing option is not available during weekday lunchtime). There are also locations in Shibuya, Meguro and more. Service charge ¥315/person
Shinagawa and Meguro
Garden Restaurant All Day Dining
3F Shinagawa Goose, 3-13-1 Takanawa, Minato-ku; tel: 5447 1151; www.landmark-tokyo.com/restaurant/alldaydining.html; daily 6.30–9.30am, 11.30am–2.30pm and 5.30–11pm; station: Shinagawa; ¥¥
Reasonable lunch buffet in a relaxing hotel garden atmosphere. Great for families. Window side table reservations are recommended; you can enjoy the garden view. Service charge ¥500/person for diner. No smoking.
Tsubame Grill
4-10-26 Takanawa, Minato-ku; tel: 3441 0121; www.tsubame-grill.co.jp/; daily 11.30am–10.30pm; station: Shinagawa; ¥¥
German style hamburger restaurant offering great value and ambience. Conveniently located near the station. Tsubame’s Hamburg Steak is a must-try. No smoking.
A selection of tempura
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
T.Y. Harbor Brewery
2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shingawa-ku; tel: 5479 4555; www.tysons.jp/tyharbor/en/; daily 11.30–2pm and 5.30–10pm; stations: Tennozu Isle, Shinagawa; ¥¥
Microbrewed ales and high-quality American bar food, in a canalside setting. English menu. No smoking.
Yanaka and Ueno
Bon
1-2-11 Ryusen, Taito-ku; tel: 3872 0375; www.fuchabon.co.jp/english/english.html; Mon–Fri noon–1.30pm and 5–7pm, Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm; station: Iriya; ¥¥¥¥
Memorable multi-course fucha ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), featuring exquisitely prepared seasonal foods in a serene setting. Set menu changes with the seasons.
Ikenohata Yabu Soba
3-44-7 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku; tel: 3831 8977; www.yabu-soba.com/contents.htm; Mon–Tue, Thur–Sat 11.30am–2pm and 4.30–8pm, Sun 11.30am–3pm; station: Yushima; ¥¥
Serves simple, filling and affordable light meals of soba noodles. English menu available. Cash only.
Nezu Club
2-30-2 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku; tel: 3828 4004; Thur–Sun 6–9.30pm; station: Nezu; ¥¥¥¥
A delightful place in one of Tokyo’s most traditional neighbourhoods, Nezu Club dishes up contemporary Japanese cuisine midway between formal and home cooking.
Sasanoyuki
2-15-10 Negishi, Taito-ku; tel: 3873 1145; www.sasanoyuki.com; Tue–Sun 11.30am–10pm; station: Uguisudani; ¥¥¥
Tokyo’s most historic tofu restaurant is simple and relaxed, with reasonable prices. The set courses here can be quite filling.
Ikebukuro and Mejirodai
Chion Shokudo
B1F Miyakawa Building, 1-24-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; tel: 5951 8288; daily 11am–3am; station: Ikebukuro; ¥¥
Also known as Zhiyin Shitang, this restaurant specialises in fiery Sichuan fare such as mabo-dofu (ground pork and tofu) and spicy hotpots, as authentic (and almost as cheap) as you would find in China. Cash only.
Goemon
1-1-26 Hon-Komagome, Toshima-ku; tel: 3811 2015; Tue–Fri noon–2pm and 5–10pm, Sat–Sun noon–8pm; stations: Hakusan or Hon-Komagome; ¥¥¥
Serving multi-course menus based around tofu, in a traditional setting overlooking a tranquil garden, this is one of Tokyo’s most charming restaurants.
Malaychan
3-22-6 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; tel: 5391 7638; www.malaychan.jp; Tue–Sat 11am–2.30pm, 5–11pm, Sun 11am–11pm, Mon 5–11pm; station: Ikebukuro; ¥¥
Chinese-Malay cuisine such as shark’s fin soup and nasi lemak (rice with coconut milk and spicy toppings), with Thai influences. Partially no smoking.
Bamboo baskets of steamed root vegetables
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
Saigon
3F, Torikoma Dai-ichi Building, 1-7-10 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; tel: 3989 0255; Mon–Fri 11.30am–2pm and 5–10pm, Sat–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm and 4–10pm; station: Ikebukuro; ¥¥
Serves down-to-earth Vietnamese fare, including spring rolls, hot pancakes with spicy sauce and beef noodle soup. Set lunches for under ¥1,000.
Asakusa and Ryogoku
Ichimon
3-12-6 Asakusa, Taito-ku; tel: 3875 6800; Mon–Fri 6–11pm, Sat–Sun 5–10pm; station: Asakusa; ¥¥¥
An atmospheric, well-placed old-world restaurant. Offers excellent sake and a good selection of Japanese dishes.
Otafuku
1-6-2 Senzoku,Taito-ku; tel: 3871 2521; Apr–Sep Mon–Sat 5–11pm, Sun 5–10pm, Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 5–11pm, noon–2pm, 4–10pm; station: Iriya; ¥¥
This venerable restaurant serves oden – chunky pieces of fishcake and vegetables simmered in stock – and pine-scented sake.
Tsukiji and Odaiba
Edogin
4-5-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; tel: 3543 4401; Mon–Sat 11am–9.30pm; station: Tsukiji; ¥¥¥
An old-school sushi emporium, cavernous but packed. The portions are generous, and the location near the old Tsukiji Fish Market ensures they are fresh.
Icho
3F Hotel Nikko Tokyo, 1-9-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; tel: 5500 5715; daily 11.30am–2.30pm and 5.30–9.30pm; station: Daiba; ¥¥¥¥
Teppanyaki – meat, fish and vegetables prepared on the griddle in front of you – in a romantic setting that overlooks the Rainbow Bridge. No smoking.
Khazana
5F Deck’s Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; tel: 3599 6551; www.maharaja-group.com/old/khazana_odaiba_en.html; daily 11am–10pm; station: Odaiba Kaihin Koen; ¥¥
All-you-can-eat lunches (until 5pm) and good curries, plus outside tables giving views of the Rainbow Bridge. Numerous other Tokyo locations.
Kagurazaka, Suidobashi, Ochanomizu, Kanda and Akihabara
Botan
1-15 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3251 0577; Mon–Sat 11.30am–8pm; station: Akihabara; ¥¥¥¥
Old-style wooden restaurant serving, sukiyaki casserole with chicken (not the more usual beef) only. The waitresses explain everything. No smoking.
Unagi (eel) on the grill
JNTO
Kanda Yabu Soba
2-10 Kanda-Awajicho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3251 0287; www.yabusoba.net; daily 11.30am–8pm; stations: Awajicho, Ogawamachi; ¥
Illustrious noodle shop serving Edo-style handmade soba in a classic, tranquil setting. Cash only. No smoking.
Seigetsu
2F Kamuya Building, 6-77-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 3269 4320; Mon–Fri 4–11pm, Sat, Sun 4–11pm; stations: Kagurazaka, Ushigome-kagurazaka; ¥¥¥
A casual, modern izakaya (tavern) serving above-average Japanese food. Great sake list (in English), with brews from all over Japan.
Stefano
6-47 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; tel: 5228 7575; www.stefano-jp.com; Tue–Sun 11.30am–2pm, 6–10pm; station: Kagurazaka; ¥¥¥
Chef Stefano Fastro serves excellent Italian food, specialising in the cuisine of Venice and the northeast. Homemade pasta and gnocchi. Service charge ¥600/person for dinner. No smoking.