A
Addresses
Tokyo is divided into 23 ku (wards), which are subdivided into cho (districts), then numbered chome (blocks). Addresses in Japanese start with the city (outside of Tokyo it would be the ken or prefecture), followed by ward name, then district, city block and building numbers. For example, the address of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building would be written: Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-8-1. This order is reversed when written in roman letters (the order used in this guide).
When navigating the city, Japanese people think in terms of city blocks, often finding their way from one to the next using landmarks. Even taxi drivers get confused away from the main thoroughfares.
B
Budgeting
Tokyo need not be as expensive as you might fear. Staying at a hostel and eating cheaply can be done on a budget of ¥5,000 a day, although ¥10,000–15,000 is more reasonable. While five-star hotels can start from around ¥20,000 a night, there are plenty of mid-range options available for ¥8,000–15,000, sometimes with a light breakfast included. Lunchtime set-meal bargains can run to ¥1,000–2,000, and there are lots of inexpensive options such as noodle bars and revolving sushi restaurants. Drinking alcohol, though, can boost the bill substantially; the cheapest beer is typically around ¥700 a glass. Public transport is inexpensive, and entry to most attractions is reasonable.
The GRUTT Pass is a ¥2,000 ticket covering entry to 66 public, national and private institutions, including all Tokyo’s major museums. It is valid for two months after first being used, and can be bought at participating venues and the Tokyo Tourist Information Centre in the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Shinjuku.
C
Children
Although Tokyo is short on public parks and playgrounds, the city is like a giant hi-tech theme park in which kids are rollercoastered about on futuristic trains and monorails, greeted by flashing screens at every turn. Tokyo’s safety, its abundant and clean public toilets, and its many pharmacies for infant necessities also make it a good choice for families.
For further English resources see www.tokyowithkids.com, an ‘interactive online community for English-speaking parents in Tokyo’. Note that some of the information here can be out of date.
Clothing
Tokyoites are both highly fashionable and often quite formal in what they wear. Depending on the social occasion you might feel out of place if you dress too casually. Large gaijin (foreigners) will find it difficult to buy large-size clothes and shoes – for women this may even apply to anyone above petite. Slip-on shoes are best, as they will need to be removed on entering homes and some restaurants and other places.
Crime and safety
Tokyo is one of the safest cities in the world, but visitors shouldn’t become too nonchalant. Although rare, pickpocketing and muggings do happen, as do worse crimes. Police boxes (koban) can be found in all neighbourhoods, often near the major train stations.
Customs
Non-residents entering the country are given a duty-free allowance of 200 cigarettes, three 760ml bottles of alcohol, 2oz of perfume and gifts the total value of which is less than ¥200,000. For more information, see www.customs.go.jp.
D
Disabled travellers
While there is a drive to provide more accessible hotels, tourist facilities and public transport for disabled travellers, Tokyo is not an easy place for limited-mobility people to get around. Useful, but outdated, information is available at http://accessible.jp.org.
Asakusa Senso-Ji Pagoda and Main Temple
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
E
Earthquakes
Tokyo is notoriously susceptible to earthquakes. It is wise, therefore, to check the emergency exits in your hotel. In the event of a tremor, safety precautions include turning off any electrical or gas sources, opening exits, and standing or crouching under a sturdy door lintel or heavy table.
Electricity
The current in Tokyo is 100 volts AC, 50 cycles. American-style plugs with two flat pins are used. Adaptors and transformers are required if you come from countries like Britain where the voltage is 240.
Embassies
Australia: 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku; tel: 5232 4111; www.australia.or.jp.
Canada: 7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku; tel: 5412 6200; www.canadanet.or.jp.
UK: 1 Ichiban-cho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 5211 1100; http://ukinjapan.fco.gov.uk.
US: 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku; tel: 3224 5000; http://tokyo.usembassy.gov.
Emergency numbers
Ambulance and Fire: 119; Police: 110; Japan Helpline: 0120-461 997.
While allowances are made for unschooled foreigners, a few pointers are useful, as some behaviour can cause genuine offence or embarrassment.
Always remove your shoes before entering Japanese homes, inns and certain museums and restaurants. Rows of slippers at entrances indicate their use. Shoeboxes or lockers are other hints. Remove slippers before stepping onto tatami (woven straw) mats. You will also be required to switch slippers to a separate pair before entering a toilet.
Blowing one’s nose in public is a gross faux pas.
When someone pours you a drink, you are expected to lift your glass slightly off the table and then pour the other person’s drink.
Chopsticks are never left sticking in rice, a gesture associated with the dead.
Eating on the train or while walking the street is viewed as poor manners.
G
Gay and lesbian travellers
Homosexuals tend to keep a low profile in Japan, and do not promote themselves in Tokyo as much as they do in other international cities. However, Tokyo is fairly tolerant of gay and alternative lifestyles, and has a thriving scene with a selection of clubs, events and support networks. It is mainly centred around Shinjuku in an area called Ni-chome, near to Shinjuku-Sanchome Station. Most of the bars, clubs and saunas here cater to the local gay community, but there are a number of places for non-Japanese-speakers
A useful online starting point is GayNet Japan (http://gnj.jp) .
Taking in the view from the Mori Tower at Roppongi Hills
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
Green issues
With one of the world’s best public transport networks, there are few places in Tokyo that are solely accessible by using a car or taxi. Separation and some recycling of trash is practised; you will find separate waste bins for burnable and non-burnable rubbish as well as cans, bottles and paper. Carry your own pair of chopsticks rather than using the disposable ones provided at almost every restaurant.
H
Health and medical care
No vaccinations are required to enter Japan. Tap water is safe, and medical care is good. Hospitals and clinics with English-speaking staff include:
Japanese Red Cross Medical Centre, 4-1-22 Hiro-o, Shibuya-ku; tel: 3400 1311; www.med.jrc.or.jp
St Luke’s International Hospital, 9-1 Akashicho, Chuo-ku; tel: 3541 5151; www.luke.or.jp
Tokyo British Clinic, 2F Daikanyama Y Building, 2-13-7 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; tel: 5458 6099; www.tokyobritishclinic.com
Tokyo Medical and Surgical Clinic, 2F 32 Shiba-koen Building, 3-4-30 Shiba-koen, Minato-ku; tel: 3436 3028; www.tmsc.jp
Kenzo Tange’s Fuji TV Building, Odaiba
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
Hours and holidays
Officially, business hours are Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, but office workers often stay later. Shops open through the week, usually from around 10am to 7 or 8pm; many are open Sundays and closed another day of the week. Most restaurants open at around 11.30am and take last orders at about 9.30pm. Museums often close on Mondays. Restaurants, department stores and museums usually open on public holidays.
Public holidays
1 Jan: New Year’s Day
2nd Mon Jan: Coming of Age Day
11 Feb: Foundation Day
20–1 Mar: Spring Equinox
29 Apr: Green Day
3 May: Constitution Memorial Day
4 May: National Holiday
5 May: Children’s Day
3rd Mon July: Marine Day
11 August: Mountain Day
3rd Mon Sept: Respect the Aged Day
23–4 Sept: Autumn Equinox
2nd Mon Oct: Sports Day
3 Nov: Culture Day
23 Nov: Labour Day
23 Dec: Emperor’s Birthday
I
Internet
The internet can be accessed in most hotel rooms as well as airbnb accommodations, either via LAN cable or wi-fi. Internet cafés can be found across the city, usually as part of 24-hour computer game and manga centres. Free wi-fi spots are increasing but still scarce compared to many western cities. See Tokyo Metro (www.tokyometro.jp/en/tips/connectivity/freewifi) and NTT’s Japan Connected-free Wi-Fi (www.ntt-bp.net/jcfw/en.html) and tourist-only Free Wi-Fi Japan (http://flets.com/freewifi/spot.html) for registration details on free public wi-fi systems. Yet another option is to rent a mobile wi-fi router at Narita (www.narita-airport.jp/en/guide/service/list/svc_19.html) or Haneda airports (www.haneda-airport.jp/inter/en/premises/service/internet.html).
L
Language
With its three alphabets, Japanese is a notoriously difficult language to learn. However, don’t let this put you off trying to master a few simple words and phrases. As a spoken language, Japanese is relatively easy to pronounce, and when used even in a basic form will often be greeted by the locals with joy. English is not widely spoken, but many people will understand written English, and it can be useful to write down what you’re trying to communicate. For some basic phrases, click here.
Lost property
Chances are if you lose something in Tokyo, you will get it back. The train and subway systems both have highly efficient lost-property offices, as do many public buildings. Also check with the local police boxes (koban), found in all neighbourhoods.
M
Maps
Tourist offices provide adequate maps of the city for free. For more detail, buy the indispensable Tokyo City Atlas: A Bilingual Guide, published by Kondansha. Google Maps also now includes comprehensive views and information on Tokyo.
Media
Newspapers and magazines. Daily papers available in English include the Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp), packaged with The New York Times, and The Japan News (http://the-japan-news.com/). Tokyo has several English-language listings magazines that can be picked up at the airport, in large English bookshops and hotels. The best is the free biweekly Metropolis (http://metropolisjapan.com). Also worth a look are Time Out Tokyo (www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo) and Tokyo Weekender (www.weekenderjapan.com).
Television and radio. State broadcaster NHK offers NHK on channel 1, NHK Educational on channel 3 and the new NHK World channel (www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld). The other main Tokyo channels are Nihon TV (channel 4), TBS (6), Fuji TV (8), TV Asahi (10) and TV Tokyo (12).
Radio Japan (www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld) offers programmes in 18 different languages. Inter FM (76.1MHz; www.interfm.co.jp) has some English-language news, and you can also hear a small amount of English programming on J-WAVE (81.3MHz).
Money
The Japanese yen (¥) is available in 1-, 5-, 10-, 50-, 100- and 500-yen coins and 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 and 10,000 notes. Money can be exchanged at banks and authorised exchangers. Many shops do not accept credit cards, so carry a reasonable amount of cash. Major credit cards and cash cards linked to Cirrus, PLUS, Maestro and Visa Electron networks can be used at post office and Seven Bank (located at 7-Eleven stores) ATMs. Traveller’s cheques are accepted by leading banks, hotels and stores.
Japanese currency
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
P
Police
You can dial the police number (110) from any public phone, free of charge. Chances are, you won’t have to walk more than a few blocks to find a local police box (koban).
Post
Post offices are open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; some are also open Sat 9am–3pm. For English-language information about postal services, including postal fees, call 0570-046 111 or go to www.post.japanpost.jp. Tokyo Central Post Office (2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3284 9539) is currently closed for reconstruction; try the nearby Tokyo International Post Office (2-3-3 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku), which is open daily 24 hours.
R
Religion
Shinto is Japan’s indigenous religion, an animist faith that involves the worship of spirits, or kami. Shinto shrines (indicated by the suffix -jinja, -jingu or -gu) are generally un-flamboyant in design, the most notable feature being the simple wooden torii gate, which symbolises a door between the earthly realm and that of the kami. In contrast, Buddhist temples (-tera, -dera, -ji or -in), such as Asakusa’s Senso-ji, are more extravagant, with imposing entry gates flanked by fearsome statues of celestial guardians, or Nio.
Meiji-jingu
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
T
Telephones
Phone numbers. Tokyo’s area code is 03, but you don’t need to dial this within the city. All regular telephone numbers have eight digits. Other area codes are Hakone: 0460, Kamakura: 0467, Kawagoe: 049, Narita: 0476 and Nikko: 0288.
Local numbers beginning with 0120, 0088 or 0053 are toll-free calls that can be dialled only within Japan.
If calling from one province to another, dial the area code first (with the zero).
International calls. To dial Tokyo from the UK dial 00 (international code) + 81 (Japan) + area code (minus the initial 0) + the number. To call overseas from Tokyo, dial the access code of an international call-service provider (KDDI: 001, Japan Telecom: 0041, NTT: 0033, Cable & Wireless IDC: 0061), then the country code and the number.
For directory assistance.
NTT Information Service – tel: 0120-505 506. In English.
Local directory assistance – tel: 104. Ask for an English-speaking operator.
International directory assistance (English-speaking) – tel: 0051.
Public telephones. Public telephones take telephone cards, although some may accept ¥10 and ¥100 coins. Each carrier issues its own prepaid cards: NTT and DDI (domestic) and KDD (international). The cards can only be used at the appropriate telephone booth.
Mobile/cell phones. NTT DoCoMo (www.nttdocomo.com) and SoftBank Mobile (www.softbank-rental.jp) allow visitors to use their own numbers and SIM cards with their 4G services, although you will need to rent or buy a phone in Japan. Alternatively, rent a phone or a SIM card with a Japan-based number at Narita and Haneda Airports to use during your stay. Most mobile numbers begin with 090 or 080.
Time zones
Tokyo (like the rest of Japan) is +9 hours GMT, +14 hours EST (New York) and +17 PST (Los Angeles). Japan does not have summer daylight-saving time.
Tipping
Tipping is not practised in Japan. However, some restaurants do impose a 10 percent service charge.
Tourist information
Japan National Tourist Organisation (JNTO; 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; tel: 3216 1903; www.jnto.go.jp; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–noon) offers information on all of Japan as well as Tokyo. For city-specific details, visit the Tokyo Tourist Information Centre (1F Tokyo Metropolitan Government No. 1 Building, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku; tel: 5321 3077; daily 9.30am–6.30pm), also at Haneda Airport (tel: 5757 9345; daily 9am–10pm) and in the Kesei line station at Ueno (tel: 3836 3471; daily 9.30am–6.30pm).
The websites of the Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.tcvb.or.jp) and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp) have up-to-date information.
Transport
Arrival by air
New Tokyo International Airport (Narita; tel: 0476-348 000; www.narita-airport.jp) is about 66km (40 miles) east of the city, and Tokyo International Airport (Haneda; tel: 5757 8111; www.tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp) is 15km (10 miles) to the south. The city’s two airports are usually referred to as Narita and Haneda. Most international flights arrive at Narita, but with the opening of a new runway, Haneda will see more flights to neighbouring countries.
Four big airlines serve Tokyo from the UK: British Airways, JAL, ANA and Virgin Atlantic. From the US or Canada, JAL and ANA, Northwest, American Airlines, Delta, Continental and United Airlines all have routes. Tokyo is also an increasingly important hub for flights to Asian destinations.
April, August and December tend to be the most expensive times to fly to Japan, as they coincide with the country’s Golden Week, O-bon and Christmas-New Year holidays. Flying a few days either side of these peak periods can result in huge savings.
Narita Airport to the city
Taxi. This is the most expensive option and usually the slowest. The fare to Tokyo is ¥20,000–30,000, but it’s no quicker than the bus.
Limousine bus. Frequent and comfortable airport limousine buses (tel: 3665 7220; www.limousinebus.co.jp) are much cheaper than taxis; they cost ¥3,000 to most central Tokyo locations. The buses connect Narita Airport with most parts of the city, including major hotels, railway stations and Tokyo City Air Terminal (a pre-boarding check-in facility), as well as Haneda Airport and Tokyo Disneyland. Tickets can be bought in the arrivals lobby after clearing immigration and customs. Buses are boarded outside the terminal.
Train. This is the fastest way to reach Tokyo. Stations for the two competing express services are found on the basement level of both terminal buildings.
A famous bullet train
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
Station signage is also handily in English
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
The JR Narita Express (tel: 3423 0111; www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex) connects with the JR railway network at Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Omiya, Yokohama and Ofuna stations. It takes an hour to Tokyo Station and the price is ¥2,940 for standard class.
The Keisei Skyliner (www.keisei.co.jp) runs to Tokyo’s Ueno Station, stopping first at Nippori. The connection to JR lines or the subway at Ueno is not as convenient as the Narita Express, but the Skyliner is usually less crowded. It takes an hour to Ueno, costing ¥1,920.
Both the JR and Keisei lines offer cheaper but slower non-express train services to the city.
Haneda Airport to the city
Taxi. It should take about 30 minutes to central Tokyo by taxi, costing around ¥5,000; but beware of traffic congestion.
Train. Most people opt for the cheaper trains. Frequent services run from the Keihin Kyuko Station in the airport basement. The train takes about 20 minutes to Shinagawa Station and costs ¥400.
Monorail. The Tokyo Monorail connects Haneda with Hamamatsucho Station on the JR Yamanote line. It takes only 17 minutes and costs ¥470, but can be very crowded.
Limousine bus. An airport limousine bus service connects Haneda with central Tokyo. Fares start at ¥1,000, depending on which part of the city you are heading to. There is also a service from Haneda to Narita that takes about 75 minutes and costs ¥3,000.
Arrival by road
Expressways are of extraordinarily high quality. Like in Britain, the Japanese drive on the left. Highway tolls are high, making trains and buses generally more economical.
Japan has an excellent system of inter-city buses. They are a comfortable and cheaper alternative to the bullet train. Buses include destinations not covered by trains, and many services are direct. Night buses are the cheapest, but leave late and arrive early. Some of these are operated by Japan Railways; buy tickets at the Green Window offices at JR stations.
The main JR bus office, where services from Kyoto and Osaka arrive, is on the Yaesu (east) side of Tokyo Station.
Arrival by train
The majority of train lines entering Tokyo from major Japanese cities, whether regular or Shinkansen (bullet train), stop at Tokyo Station on the JR Yamanote line. Day trips to places like Hakone usually involve taking a private (non-JR) line. Most of these connect with major JR terminals like Shibuya and Shinjuku stations.
Transportation within Tokyo
Subway. Tokyo’s clean, safe and convenient subway – made up of the nine-line Tokyo Metro (www.tokyometro.jp) and the four-line Toei (www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp) – is the fastest and most economical means of getting across town.
Tokyo has a very efficient subway system
Chris Stowers/Apa Publications
The two systems are fully integrated and run to precise schedules indicated on timetables posted at each station. Services run from 5am to 12.30am at intervals of 2–3 minutes during rush hours, with frequencies dropping to around every 5–10 minutes in off-peak periods. The frequency reduces slightly at weekends. All stations have a route map indicating fares for each stop near the ticket machines, usually in English.
Fares are regulated on a station-to-station basis, so if you cannot determine the fare required, just purchase the cheapest ticket available (¥160 for Tokyo Metro lines, ¥180 for Toei lines) at the ticket machine. Fare correction can be done on arrival.
Pasmo magnetic smart cards (www.pasmo.co.jp), good on any public transport line in Tokyo, can be bought at subway stations (¥500 deposit) and recharged when depleted. These are simply passed over sensors of the automated ticket gates as you enter, with the fare deducted at your destination. JR’s Suica cards act in exactly the same way, and both can be used on subways, trains and buses.
Trains. Above ground, Japan Railways (JR) operate a service as efficient as the subway, with equivalent frequency and operating hours (5am–1am) on commuter lines. Like the subways, the lines are colour-coded.
The Yamanote line (green) makes a 35km (20-mile) oval loop around central Tokyo, with JR and private lines branching out to the suburbs. Also useful is the Chuo line (orange) that runs east–west, connecting Tokyo Station with Shinjuku Station and beyond. JR fares start at ¥130. Prepaid, chargeable Suica cards can be used instead of cash at ticket machines. A one-day Tokunai Pass (¥730) is good for unlimited JR train travel in central Tokyo.
Buses. There are no English signs on Tokyo buses, but imminent stops are announced by a recorded voice. Passengers pay on entry, dropping the flat fare (¥200) into a box located next to the driver; there’s a machine in the box for changing notes if you don’t have the coins. Tourist information centres and hotels can give you bus maps with the major routes marked. Buses generally run 5.30am–midnight.
Ferry. Tokyo River Buses (tel: 5733 4812; www.suijobus.co.jp) offer a range of services down the Sumida River and across Tokyo Bay. For details of their most popular route, connecting Asakusa and Hama Rikyu Garden, click here. Other routes include a cruise around Tokyo Harbour (45 min), past Rainbow Bridge to Kasai Sealife Park (55 min), and to the Shinagawa Aquarium (35 min). All boats depart from Hinode Pier, near Takeshiba Station on the Yurikamome line. Look out for the striking, sci-fi-esque Himiko vessel, designed by manga artist Leiji Matsumoto, which morphs into the floating bar Jicoo at night (www.jicoofloatingbar.com).
Taxis. Taxis are a convenient but pricey way of getting around. The standard flagfall in Tokyo is ¥700; anything other than short trips can run from ¥3,000 to ¥5,000. No tipping is expected.
Taxis in Ginza
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
Taxis are readily available on the streets, and at every major hotel and railway station. A red light in the front window signifies that the taxi is available. Roads are narrow and traffic congestion is appalling at rush hour.
Most taxi drivers speak only Japanese, so it helps to have your destination written down in Japanese. Do not be surprised if taxis fail to stop when you hail them, particularly at night. Drivers will be looking for profitable runs to the suburbs rather than foreigners wanting to return to their hotels.
Note that there is no need to touch the door when getting in or out of taxi – they are automatically opened and closed by the driver.
Recommended taxi operators are:
Hinomaru: tel: 3212 0505; www.hinomaru.co.jp/taxi
Nihon Kotsu: tel: 5755 2336; www.nihon-kotsu.co.jp
Driving and Car Rental. Tokyo is not an easy place in which to drive. Except on the often crowded expressways, there are few road signs in romanised Japanese, and parking is always a problem. For getting out of town, it is usually faster to take public transport. If you do need to hire a car, try Toyota Rent-a-Car (http://rent.toyota.co.jp), which has branches at the airports and across the city.
V
Visas
Nationals of most Western countries do not need a visa for a short visit. On arrival, visitors are usually granted temporary visitor status, good for 90 days. Anyone wishing to extend their stay should visit the Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau office (5-5-30 Konan, Minato-ku; tel: 5796 7112; www.moj.go.jp).