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Abdul Hamid II, sultan of Turkey, 61, 68
“aboveground mines,” 306, 309–11
Academy Awards (Oscars), 138, 139, 169–70, 293, 297–99
Adventure in Diamonds (formerly Diamonds are Dangerous), 139–40
advertising:
in award shows, 138, 139, 168, 169–71, 293–99
design in, 102–4, 113, 115, 239–40
failures, 231–32
four objectives in, 103
free, 257, 260
innovations in, 100–115, 153–54, 169–70, 299–306
loaned diamonds in, 131, 150–51, 169–70
affaire des diamants, l’ (the affair of the diamonds), 196
Affleck, Ben, 243
African Americans, 247–65, 278–80
Agra Diamond, 241–42
AIDS research, 210
AK1 pipe, 234, 243, 247
Alexandra, queen of England, 63
Alfred H. Smith and Co., 85
Alrosa, 281
American dream, xi-xiii
American Museum of Natural History, 89, 93, 146
Ames, Harriet Annenberg, 175, 178, 179
Amnesty International, 274
amputees, 272–74, 277, 280, 310
Amsterdam, 53, 59
as diamond-cutting center, 41, 83, 183
Anglo American Corporation, 282, 284
Angola, 276
diamond mining in, 268
human rights violations in, 265, 267, 275, 279, 282, 291
violent rebel campaign in, 267–71
Annenberg, Moses “Moe,” 175
Annenberg, Walter, 175
anniversaries, 141, 187, 220, 223
Antwerp, Belgium:
as diamond-cutting center, 41, 49, 83, 147, 183
as diamond-trading capital, 237–38, 270, 274, 308
apartheid, 39, 180–81, 235, 281
aquamarine, 96, 119, 125
Arabo, Jacob “the Jeweler” (Yakov Arabov), xvi, 247–50, 255–57, 260–61, 263, 264, 278
Argyle mine, 235–45, 281
Arpels, Claude, 171, 172
Arpels, Louis and Julien, 86, 96
Ashton Joint Venture, 234–44
Asscher, Joseph, 88
Astor, John Jacob, 15
Astor, Mrs., 15, 17
Astor family, 3, 62, 163
Atherstone, W. Guybon, 23
Atlanta Constitution, 108
Atlantic, The, 219
auctions, 10–13, 15, 84, 130, 171, 174, 176–79, 241–42
Australia, 24, 276
de Beers and, 234–40, 242–43, 245, 270, 281
diamond industry in, 234–45, 316
baby boomers, 149, 153–54
BAFTA Awards, 168
baguettes, 141, 142, 171
Bain & Company, 314–15
Bakhmeteff, George, 75
Balanchine, George, 172
Balfour, Ian, 74
Baller, Ben (Ben Yang), 255, 261–64
Baltimore Sun, 201, 215
Bapst, Germain, 10–12, 314
Barnato, Barney (Barnett Isaacs), 34–38, 194
Barry, Stephen, 222
Bassey, Shirley, 278
Beau Sancy diamond, 49
“Been There, Done That,” 258
Belgium:
diamond cutting in, 41, 48–49, 90, 243
diamond trade in, 268, 270, 273, 288
Bergman, Ingrid, 138
Berquem, Louis de (Lodewyk van Berken), 48–50
Bessie (Wallis Simpson’s aunt), 118–20, 126
Best Practice Principles, 285, 287
betrothal rings, 50–51
Beverly Hills Hotel, 170
Beyoncé, 301–2
bezel settings, 45, 257, 261
B.G. (Baby Gangsta), 258–59, 267
Bieber, Justin, 263
big-box stores, 244
Billionaire watch, xv-xvi
birthstones, tradition of, 42–43
Bissell, Lisa, 307–10, 312–13, 315–16
Biz Markie, 253, 255–56
Black, Starr, Frost & Gorham, 94, 137
Black Economic Empowerment, 281
Black Mafia Family, 261
Blay, Zandile, 279–80, 302
bling, use of term, 252, 259–60, 279
“Bling: Consequences and Repercussions,” 279
“Bling Bling,” 267
Bling’d: Blood, Diamonds, and Hip Hop, 279
Blink-182, 263
Blood and Sand, 138
Blood Diamond (film), xvi, 277–78, 281, 288
blood diamonds, use of term, 277–78, 311, 317
Blood Diamonds (Campbell), 277–78
Blue Book, 8, 16, 42, 52, 151
Blue Diamond of the Crown (French Blue), 73–74
blue diamonds, 67, 73, 103, 241
most famous, see Hope Diamond
Blue Nile, 303
Boers, 21, 23, 24, 27–28, 39
Bohlen und Halbach, Vera Krupp von, 173
Borazon, 202
bort, 109–10, 203
Boston Globe, 171
Boston Saturday Evening Gazette, 43
Botswana, 276, 282, 284–86
mining in, 181, 281, 316
Boucheron, 5, 164
Boucheron, Gérard, 10–11
Bradley-Martin, Cornelia, 2–3, 5, 6, 13–16
Bradley-Martin ball, 1–6, 13–17, 41
Brady, James Buchanan “Diamond Jim,” 229–31, 353
Brazil, as traditional source of diamonds, 4, 23, 26, 241
Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 149–51
Briatore, Flavio, xvi
Bridgman, Percy, 199
brilliance, 49, 208
brilliants, 49–50, 61, 64, 69, 73, 74, 104, 122, 124, 167, 170–71, 174
Bristol Hotel, 66–69
Britain, British, 7, 10, 19–20, 47, 88, 141, 154, 157–58, 175, 197–98, 284
aristocracy of, 5, 117–34, 221–23
engagement ring marketing in, 189
filming in, 161–62
imperialism of, 32–34, 37, 38–39, 272
Rhodes in, 19–20, 31–32
South Africa under, 21, 24, 27, 82, 121, 180, 234
Brooklyn Eagle, 146
brown diamonds, 231–33, 237–40, 241, 244
see also champagne diamonds
Buccellati, Andrea, 304–5
Bulgari, 155, 162–68, 169–71, 296, 304
Bulgari, Constantino, 163–64
Bulgari, Giorgio, 163–64
Bulgari, Giovanni, 164–67, 171–72
Bulgari, Nicola, 164
Bulgari, Paolo, 164
Bulgari, Sotirio (Sotirios Voulgaris), 163–64
Buona Sera, Mrs. Campbell, 171
Burgundy, Charles the Bold, Duke of, 49, 50
Burke, Kareem “Biggs,” 254
Burton, Richard, 162, 165–68, 172, 173–80
cabochon, defined, 130, 166–67
Calderón, Tego, 279
Cameroon, 290
Campbell, Greg, 277
Canada, 276, 281, 304, 315
canary diamonds, 10, 308
Cape Diamond (Eureka Diamond), 22–23
Cape Town, 20–21, 23–24, 122
Capote, Truman, 149
Cartier, 5, 59–62, 76, 85, 125, 131, 137, 142–43, 154, 160, 164, 166, 176–177–178, 209, 232, 264, 296, 304
challenges for, 94, 129
international expansion of, 62–64
in lawsuit against McLeans, 70–71, 75
whimsical animal designs of, 129–31
Cartier, Alfred, 59–60, 62, 63
Cartier, Elma Rumsey, 63–64
Cartier, Jacques, 60, 62, 63, 129
Cartier, Louis, 60, 62, 63, 64, 129
Cartier, Pierre, 60–75, 94, 95, 129, 132
Cartier Diamond, see Taylor-Burton Diamond
Cash Money Records, 254, 258
Cecil, George, 114
Central African Republic, 290
Central Kalahari Game Reserve, 286
Central Selling Organization (CSO), 121, 182–85, 242, 284
see also Diamond Trading Company (DTC)
Ceres Corporation, 227
chains, hip hop, 254–55, 257–58, 262, 264, 280
Champagne Diamond Registry, 239
champagne diamonds, marketing of, 238–40, 243–44, 308, 316
Channing, Carol, 135–36
Charisse, Cyd, 140
Charles, Ernest “Monty,” 184–85, 285
Charles, prince of Wales, 221, 225
Charles VII, king of France, 47–49
Chatelain, Liz, 238–39, 316
Chicago Tribune, 45, 123, 128, 177, 207
children:
exploited in rebel armies, 272, 277–79
indulged and pampered, 58–59, 61, 66
China, 20, 268, 313, 315
Christie’s auction (London), 241–42
Christmas:
commercial promotions for, 42–43, 105, 147, 187
overstock merchandise after, 209
Chuck D, 279
Churchill, Randolph, 46
Churchill, Winston, 46, 100
Civil War, U.S., 9
claimholder system, 34
Clarke, Carter, 307–9
Cleopatra, 161–62, 165, 167–68
Clipse, 263
Coeur, Jacques, 48–50
Coiner, Charles T., 103, 115
Colbert, Claudette, 139
Cold War, 182, 216
Colesburg Kopje, 27
Colon, Pastor, Jr., 174–75
conflict diamonds, xvi, 267–92, 299–300, 302, 310–11, 317
as alleged hoax, 288–91
De Beers response to, 281–91
use of term, 275, 277
Congress, U.S., 289
conical pavilion, 50
Connaissance des Pierres Précieuses (CPP), 189
consumerism:
as economic stimulus, 3, 17
elite shopping experience in, 5–6, 59–61
new markets for, 313–15
social rebellion against, 178–80, 188
“Controversy over Diamonds Made into Virtue by De Beers,” 288
Conzinc Riotinto of Australia (CRA), 234–35
counterfeit diamonds, use of term, 308
Court of Jewels travelling showcase, 132–34
Craig, William, 230–31
Crawford, Joan, 144
Crenshaw, Ben, 233
Cribs, 265
Crystaline diamonds, 208
C. Tiffany and Son, 7
cubic zirconias (CZ), 226–28, 306, 309, 311, 312
Cukor, George, 137
Cullinan diamond, 86–89, 92
cushion cut, 64, 96, 150, 241
customs regulations, diamonds in, 6, 61, 89, 237–38, 270–71, 273–76, 290
Daily Boston Globe, 128
Dale, Dana, 139
Dalí, Salvador, 115
Danes, Claire, 298
Dapper Dan, 253
Darrow, Paul, 102–3
Darya-i Nur (Sea of Light) diamond, 241
Dash, Damon, 254
David di Donatello Awards, 171
Davis, Sammy, Jr., 168, 251
DEAREST rings, 43–44, 51
Death Row Records, 254
De Beer, Johannes Nicolaas, 27, 28
De Beers Consolidated Mines Ltd., 37–40, 87, 201
De Beers diamond syndicate, 82, 87–88, 110, 174
Australia as threat to, 234–40, 242–43, 245, 270, 281
branding and retailing by, 282–83, 285–88, 299
in conflict diamond issue, 274, 281–82, 288–89
current active prospecting by, 316
diamond acquisitions by, 269–70
diamond hegemony of, 38, 40, 84, 109–10, 179, 180–91, 193, 203, 217, 245, 269, 274, 281–82, 290, 308, 315
exposé of, 216–21, 235
geographic expansion of, 181–84, 217
leadership changes at, 99, 282–84
marketing and promotion strategies of, 89, 97, 99–109, 121–22, 131, 138–39, 144–45, 178, 180, 183, 187–91, 217–19, 222–25, 227, 229, 231–33, 235, 240, 260, 280, 282–88, 298–300, 309, 314, 317, 318
monopoly of, 40, 110, 180–82, 200, 207, 218–19, 282, 283, 288
new international markets for, 188–91
privatization of, 282
protesters against, 286
retooled in response to social change, 280–91
skepticism about motives of, 288–91
social change as challenge to, 180–91, 193
as sponsor at N.Y. World’s Fair, 94–95
synthetic diamond made by, 203
synthetic diamonds as threat to, 193–211, 213–15, 228, 312
in today’s world, 283–88
De Beers Jewellery, 286–87
De Beers mine, 31–40
De Beers Rush (New Rush), 27–29
“Declaration of Faith, A” (C. Rhodes), 32
Democratic Republic of the Congo, 275
department stores, 54–55
Derain, André, 115
Diamant (racehorse), 197
Diamants de la Couronne de France, Les (The Diamonds of the French Crown), 10–13
diamond blue color, of N. W. Ayer & Sons, 103
“Diamond Boom, The,” 216
Diamond Corporation, 88
diamond cutting, cutters, xiv, 24, 73, 88, 145, 174–75
challenges of, 91, 109
cut-grading system in, 305
cut styles in, xv-xvi, 84, 305–6
demonstration, 133
expansion into America of, 41–42
homogeneity in, 305
innovation in, 48–50, 183–84, 243–44, 305
of Jonker diamond, 90–93
of melee, 83, 183–84
modern vs. antique, 305–6
weight vs. beauty in, 73
see also specific cuts
Diamond Dealers Club, 147, 225
Diamond Development Initiative, 291
“diamond dream,” 314
diamond dust, 48
diamond fashioning, 48–49, 69–70, 79, 83, 88, 89, 95, 237, 243
see also diamond cutting, cutters
Diamond Field, 26
“diamond horseshoe,” 62, 84, 207
diamond industry:
as benefit to indigenous people, 281
buying and selling in, see diamond trade
changing social values as challenge to, 173–91
distribution in, xvi, 87, 184–85, 242–43, 284–85
downward trends in, 79–97, 101–2
effect of synthetics on, 306–13
and fashion industry, 294–99
future projections for, 314–16
new international markets for, 188–91, 313–15
output and availability control in, 35–40, 181, 236
price control in, 35–40, 100, 179, 181, 207, 219, 274, 283
reform in, 285–86, 291–92
in violent conflicts, see conflict diamonds
Diamond Information Center, 106
“diamond invention,” 217–18
“Diamond Is Forever, A” (short film), 145
“Diamond Is Forever, A” (tagline), 114–15, 136, 187, 223, 317
“Diamond Is For Now, A,” 187–88
Diamond Mines of South Africa, The (Williams), 25
diamond mining:
under Atlantic Ocean, 181
in Australia, 234–40
benefits to indigenous people from, 281, 287, 291
exposé of, 216–21
hardships of, xiii, 30, 87, 145, 217
indigenous populations exploited by, 21, 25, 30, 38–39, 100, 235, 286, 289–90, 310, 313
projected depletion in, 315–16
thrill of, 29
World War I closing of, 82–83
see also specific mining regions
Diamond News, 26
Diamond Promotion Service, 106, 224
diamond rush, in South Africa, 24–28
diamonds:
affordable, 244, 310–11, 316
changing cultural attitudes toward, 84–85, 178–80, 188, 225, 260
collections of, 110–11, 132, 154, 160–61, 164–67, 230
colored, 64, 69, 74, 133, 231–233, 239–240, 241, 308; see also specific colors
democratization of, 53–55, 145–46, 244–45
in engagements, see engagement rings
flawed, 312
hardness of, xv, 22, 202, 204, 208, 226, 318
highest auction price for, 176
increasing supply and availability of, 229–45
as investment, see investment diamonds
less expensive alternatives to, 203–10, 226, 227, 309
man-made, 312; see also lab-grown diamonds; synthetic diamonds
negative associations of, xiii-xiv, xvi, 65–66, 178–80, 274–75, 277–78, 281–82, 299, 317
nicknames for, 259–60
paradoxical symbolism of, xiii-xiv, xvi, 299–300, 317–18
as preeminent gem, 44
rarity of, 40, 83, 315–16
scientific composition of, xiv, xv, 193–94
significant, 10–13, 49, 71, 85, 86–87, 132, 147
size factor in, 223–25
small, see melee
symbolic appeal of, xvi-xvii, 58, 69, 78, 220, 292, 300, 314, 317–18
uncut, see rough diamonds
vocabulary of, see 4Cs
see also specifically named gems
Diamonds: A Century of Spectacular Jewels (Proddow and Fasel), 125
“Diamonds and the Draft,” 108
“Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” 136, 302
“Diamonds Are Forever,” 278
“Diamonds from Sierra Leone,” 278–79
diamond trade, xiii, 4
auctions and estate sales in, 84, 86, 130, 171, 174, 176–79, 241–42
conflict diamonds in, 267–92
dealers in, 88, 93
illicit practices in, 12, 35, 38, 110, 178–79, 270, 274, 290, 312–13
regulation changes in, 269–71, 273–77, 302
sales scams in, 220
shopper’s responsibility in, 292
tenders in, 242–43
see also sightholder system
Diamond Trading Company (DTC), 284
Diana, princess of Wales, engagement ring of, 221–22, 225
DiCaprio, Leonardo, 277–78
Dignam, Dorothy “Miss Dig,” 105–7, 136, 140–41, 189
DiMaggio, Joe, 141
divorce, 117–18, 126, 128, 160
Dolce Vita, La, 162
Dominion Diamond Corporation, 304
Donner, Vyvyan, 108
double-ring ceremony, 51
Doutrelon, Alfred, 12
Doyle, Elizabeth, 303, 305
Doyle & Doyle, 303
Dr. Dre, 253, 258
drug dealers, 252–53, 255, 261, 278
dry sites, dry digging, 26–28
Dudley, Earl of, 24, 28
Dutch, 68, 87
in South Africa, see Boers
Dutch East India Company, 20–21
Dyer, Elisha, Jr., 15
economic inequality, xvi, 2–4, 75, 83, 97, 178–79, 222, 252–53, 258, 262, 264, 316
economy:
in challenges for diamond industry, 79–97, 213–14, 235–36
downturns in, 2–4, 41, 107, 118, 174, 178–79, 188, 213–14, 235–36
emerging markets in, 313–14
rebounding of, 41, 53, 225–26, 229, 236
Edinburgh, Philip Mountbatten, Duke of, 124
Edward VII, king of England, 60, 63, 92
Edward VIII, king of England, 126–27
abdication of, 127–28
as duke of Windsor, 127–31
as prince of Wales, 119–21
Egypt, ancient, 51, 252, 262
Elizabeth, queen-mother of England, 121–22
Elizabeth II, queen of England, 207
coronation of, 141
marriage of, 124–25
as princess, 121–25
Ellis, Jabez Lewis, 7–8
Ellison, Robyn, 237, 240, 242
emerald cut, xv, 92, 142, 154, 160
emeralds, 42, 61, 70, 81, 85, 96, 112, 141, 164, 166–68, 179
emerging markets, 313–15
engagement rings, xvi, 43–46, 50, 58, 153, 179, 185, 219, 228, 244, 255
of celebrities, 139–44, 160, 166, 167, 221–22, 243
cost of, 52
couples shopping for, 300, 302–3
drop in sales of, 188
expanding international market for, 188–91
future projections for, 315
history of, 50–52
marketing promotions for, 102–12, 145–49, 186–87, 223–25, 231
for men, 229
present-day trends in, 300–301, 310–11
third-finger placement for, 51, 111, 148
“two months” salary guideline for, 224–25, 236, 304
uniqueness in, 303
environment, effect of mining on, xiii, 235, 287, 291, 310, 313
Epstein, Edward Jay, 177, 216–21, 235
Essence, 280
“Eternal Gem, The,” 144
eternity rings (diamond anniversary rings), 141, 187, 223
ethnocentrism, 33, 38
Ettinger, Margaret “Maggie,” 138–40, 144
Eugénie, empress of France, 10, 13, 15–16, 63
Eureka Diamond (Cape Diamond), 22–23
Europe:
American elite in, 13, 59–61, 64, 66, 132, 160, 206
as center of diamond culture, 5, 9, 82, 313–14
engagement ring marketing in, 189
European Union, 276, 290
Experiment 151, 200
Fabergé eggs, xvi, 62
“fair trade” diamonds, 291
“Famous Diamond Is Coming to U.S.,” 88
Farouk, king of Egypt, 93
Fasel, Marion, 122
fashion industry, 294–99
fashion jewelry, 240
faux diamonds, 203–10
Fellini, Federico, 162
fire, 208
defined, 49
Fisher, Eddie, 161, 165, 166
Fitzgerald, Zelda, 77
Five Stones (game), 22
Five Time Zone watch, 261
Flato, Paul, 93, 137–39, 169, 232, 242, 298
Flavor Flav, 251–52
Florentine diamond, 49
Ford, Gerald, 214
Forevermark, 286–87, 299
Fort Belvedere, 120
Fouquet, Jean, 49
4Cs (color, clarity, cut, and carat weight), 104, 112–13, 147
“Four Hundred,” 17
France, 7–10, 21, 47–50, 73, 82, 129
auction of crown jewels in, 10–13, 15
engagement ring marketing in, 189, 191
Lemoine in, 194–99
political upheaval in, 8, 10, 68, 74
Frankel, Simon, 73
Fraser, Malcolm, 235
Fred Leighton, 287, 295–300
French Blue diamond, 73–74
“French Company,” 36–37
French Revolution, 68, 74
FTC labeling guidelines, 311
Furness, Thelma, 119–21, 125
fur trade, 274
Gaborone, Botswana, 284–85
Galliano, John, 297–98
gangsta rap, 253, 258–59
gangsters, 206, 258, 260
Garde Meuble, 74
garnets, 324
Garrard, 10, 23, 124, 221–22
gay rights, 210
Gemesis, see Pure Grown Diamonds
Gemological Institute of America (GIA), 111–12, 145, 189, 239, 305, 312
gemologists, 111–12
General Electric, 64, 199–203, 211, 213, 226, 228, 236, 283, 306
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, 135–37, 141
GEO, 216–18
George, Thomas, 259
George V, king of England, 74–75, 88, 99, 119
George VI, king of England, 121–22
Gerety, Frances, 113–14, 136, 287
Germany, 7, 59, 194, 198, 206, 216
engagement ring marketing in, 189, 191
Nazi, 96, 122, 129, 183, 214, 242
in South Africa, 82
Gilded Age, xiv, 1–18, 229–30, 231, 352
Gilfillan, Corinna, 274, 276, 292
gimmal rings, 51
“Girl’s Best Friend,” 258
glass, diamond capacity to cut, 22, 204, 208, 226
Glen Grey Act (1894), 39, 100
Global Witness, 267, 269, 271–76, 280, 288–89, 291–92
Golconda, India, 4, 132, 230, 241, 313, 316
gold, in jewelry design, 42, 45, 51, 96, 108, 164, 251, 257, 263
Golden Globes, 170, 294, 298
Goldman Sachs & Co., 52
gold mines, 31, 38, 57
gold rushes, 24
Gooch, Charmian, 288
Grace, princess of Monaco, engagement rings of, 141–44
Graham, Katherine, 204
Grant, Cary, 137
Great Depression, 118, 137
as challenge to diamond industry, 85–86, 93–94, 97, 99, 236
Great Table diamond, 241
Greer, S. C., 205
Griquas, 23, 24
“Guilt Trip” (Rapaport), 273
Habib, Selim, 65, 68, 73
Hall, H. Tracy, 200–202
Hamilton, Duchess of, 85
Hannaford, Gladys B. “Diamond Lady,” 89, 146–48, 302
harems, 61, 67, 68
Hargitay, Mickey, 140
Harlem, 253
Harry Winston Inc., 85, 89, 91, 125, 131, 137, 146, 155, 208, 245, 283, 304
Hartford Courant, 133, 178, 228
“Have You Ever Tried to Sell a Diamond?” (Epstein), 219–20
Hayes, Isaac, 251
Hayworth, Rita, 138
Heart of the Matter, The: Sierra Leone, Diamonds and Human Security, 273
heart shape cut, xv, 73
Hello! Nigeria, 279
Henrietta Award, 170
Hepburn, Audrey, 149–51, 162
Hepburn, Katharine, 137, 143
Herpers, Ferdinand, 45n
High Diamond Council, 275
High Society, 143–44
Hilton, Conrad, Jr. “Nicky,” 160
Hinduism, 67–68, 72, 73
hip hop, 247–65
conflict diamond issue in, 278–80
culture, 251–57
hippies, 179–80, 191, 225
Hirschfeld, Al, 207
Holiday, 137
Hollywood:
child stars of, 90, 158–59
diamond promotion using stars and films of, xii, xvi, 58, 68, 75, 90, 134, 135–44, 149–55, 157–72, 314
see also specific individuals, films and companies
Hollywood Foreign Press Association, 170
Holocaust, xiv, 271
“hoodoo diamond,” 70, 132
Hope, Henry Philip, 68, 72, 74
Hope, Henry Thomas, 72
Hope & Co., 68
Hope Diamond, 64–78, 86, 88, 147, 151, 239, 241
curse of, 65–72, 75–78, 132–33
donated to Smithsonian, 154
history of, 72–78
refashioning of, 69–70
Hope Town, 22, 24
horseracing, 197
Hounsou, Djimon, 278
House of Jewels, 94–97
Houston Town and Country, 154
Hoving, Walter, 151–54, 171
Hoving Corporation, 151
human rights violations, 269, 271–73, 277–81, 287, 289, 291
Huntington, Anna Hyatt, 85
Huntington, Arabella, 5–6, 84–85, 96–97
Huntington, Archer, 85
Huntington, Collis, 5, 96–97
Hurwitz, Marty, 238–39
Hutton, Barbara, 163
“Hypnotize,” 258
Ice Cube, 253
Idol’s Eye diamond, 132
IF & Co., 261–64
“Improvement in Diamond Setting,” 45n
India, 20, 189, 268, 276, 313–15
as diamond-cutting center, 243–44
maharajas of, xiv, 63, 93, 230
as traditional source of diamonds, 4, 23, 26, 67, 73, 132, 230, 241–42
industrial diamonds, 109–10, 182, 233, 236, 239, 283
synthetic, 199–203, 228, 307
insurance, 84, 88, 91, 175, 226
Internet retail, 303–4
investment diamonds, 4, 146–47, 227, 235, 240
threat from, 216–21
Iran, crown jewels of, 241
Isaacs, Barnett, see Barnato, Barney
Israel, 268, 276
as diamond-cutting center, 147, 183–84, 243
Italy, 7, 169
motion picture industry in, 162–64, 173
Ivory Coast, 275
J+J Jewelry Company, 249
Jackson, Michael, 263
Jacob (Arabo’s cousin), 249
Jacob & Co., xv, 261
Jacobs, Erasmus Stephanus, 21–22, 24
“Jacob” watch, 261
jade, 179, 225
“Jager” diamonds, 82, 208
Jagersfontein mine, 26, 82
Japan, engagement ring marketing in, 189–90, 236, 315
Jay Z, 254, 257–58
Jazz Age, 83, 93, 137, 260
jewelers:
commercial competition and threat to, 54–55
established, 5, 9
homogeneity in, 305
large conglomerate ownership of, 304–5
see also specific companies
Jewelers’ Circular, 71, 230–31
jewelry:
loaned to celebrities, 131, 150–51, 169–70, 296–98
vintage, 295–96, 303, 305, 313
jewelry design, 129–30, 151, 153, 166
in rap music industry, 247–65
Jewels (ballet), 172
Jews, 174, 247
in diamond industry, xiv, 34, 48, 81, 99, 204
persecution of, xiv, 183, 214, 271
see also specific individuals
Johannesburg, 87, 88, 101, 114, 180–81, 211
Johnson, David, 284, 308, 314
Jolis, Jack, 288–91
Jones, Jennifer, 169–70
Jonker, Gert, 87
Jonker, Johannes Jacobus, 87–88, 93
Jonker diamond (Number One), 86–93, 97, 132, 146, 147, 154
Joseph Frankel’s Sons, 73
Journey Through the Value Chain, 314–15
Justice Department, U.S., 110, 283
J. Walter Thompson agency, 111, 190, 236, 318
Kaplan, Lazare, 90–93
Kaplan, Leo, 90–92
Kazanjian, Douglas, 305–6, 313–14
Kazanjian Bros., 305
Kelly, Grace, see Grace, princess of Monaco
Kenmore, Robert, 176–77
Kennedy, John F., 141
Kennedy family, 163
Kenton Corporation, 177
Keystone, The, 54–55
Khan, Aga Mohammed, 46–47
Khoi (Hottentots), 21, 23, 25
Kidman, Nicole, 297–99
Kimberely, Australia, 234, 236
Kimberley, Lord, 234
Kimberley, South Africa (formerly Vooruitzigt), 31–34, 36, 38, 234, 273
Kimberley Central Company, 34, 36, 37
Kimberley mine “Big Hole,” 27–30, 34–36, 46, 123, 181, 182, 194, 231
Kimberley Process (KP) Certification Scheme (2003), 275–77, 285
skepticism about, 289–91, 311
kimberlite pipes, 30, 33, 34, 181, 200, 316
Kipling, Rudyard, 39
Kitty Foyle, 169
Knight, Marion Hugh “Suge,” Jr., 254
Knot, The, 300
Koh-i-Noor “Mountain of Light” diamond, 10, 29, 46–47, 147
Kono district, Sierra Leone, 271–73, 277
kopjes (hills), 26, 27, 194
kopje-walloper (unprincipled diamond peddler), 35, 36
Krupp Diamond, 173–74
Kunz, George Frederick, 42
Kwiat, Greg, 300–301
lab-grown diamonds, 182, 211, 226, 306–13
disclosure and transparency in, 308–9, 312
mined vs., 306–7, 311–12, 316
synthetic vs., 311–12
tools for identifying, 312–13
Ladies’ Home Journal, 232
Lauck, Gerold, 100–103, 113–14, 231
Lawrence of Arabia, 168
Lehman & Co., 52
Lemarchand, Peter, 129
Lemoine, Henri, “secret formula” diamond synthesis scam of, 194–99, 203
Lemoine Affair, The (Proust), 196
Leopold, king of Belgium, 66
Lesotho, 181, 217
Letseng mine, 181
Liberia, 271, 274
Life, 125, 232
light:
optical dispersion of, xv, 45, 49, 50, 206, 226, 305–6
rainbow, 49, 305
Lilienfeld, Gustav, 23–24
Lindbergh kidnapping, 78
Little Princess, The, 158
Lloyds of London, 84, 91, 93
Lollobrigida, Gina, 168–71
London, 9, 35, 51, 63, 88, 130, 157–59, 211, 269, 288
De Beers store protested in, 288
diamond market in, 23, 68, 121, 182, 184–85, 284
social scene in, 118–21, 125
Loos, Anita, 135
Lopez, Jennifer, 243
Loren, Sophia, 140, 169
Los Angeles, 81, 112, 137–38, 158, 170, 255, 258, 261–65
Los Angeles Times, 6, 180, 221, 227, 228
Louis XV, king of France, 74
Louis XVI, king of France, 3, 15, 67–68, 73–74, 230, 252
Louisiana Purchase Exposition (St. Louis; 1904), 95
Luce, Clare Booth, 162
Luciano, Lucky, 258
Lusaka Protocol, 268
Lynn, Jeffrey, 139
McAllister, Ward, 17
McLean, Edward “Ned,” 58–59, 64, 66, 69, 71, 76, 77–78
McLean, Emily, 76
McLean, Evalyn Walsh, 57–62, 64, 66–72, 75–78, 132
McLean, Jock, 78
McLean, John Roll, 58, 62
McLean, Ned (son), 76
McLean, Vinson, 66, 76–77
“Magic Stone, The,” 144
Mail, U.S., diamonds sent in, 88–89, 154
Makani, Johannes, 87–88
Malta fever, 161–62
Mansfield, Jayne, 140
Marange diamond fields, 291
Marcus, Herman, 94
Marcus & Co., 94
Margaret Rose, princess of England, 122–23
Marie Antoinette, queen of France, 9–10, 68, 74
Marie Claire, 189
Marie of Anjou, queen of France, 47
marketing, xvi, 180, 318
celebrities in, xii, xvi, 58, 68, 75, 90, 134, 135–44, 149–55, 157–72, 243, 263, 293–99
through educational and informational campaigns, 103–7, 111–12, 145–49, 189, 309
grassroots, 280
international expansion of, 188–91
of melee, 186–88
present-day trends in, 293–318
promotional strategies in, 86–93, 100–115, 121–22, 131–34, 183, 186–91, 207–8, 223–24, 229, 231–33, 238–40, 243
in response to social changes, 281–88
salesmanship strategies for, 66–70, 73, 106, 168–69, 224, 263–64
successful, 148–49, 191
see also advertising; specific companies and campaigns
marquise cut, xv, 92, 123, 141, 167
marriage:
among baby boomers, 149
effect of World War II on, 107–8
proposals, 44–45, 50, 52, 80, 300–301
Shinto traditions in, 190
social changes in, 187–88, 302–3
Martha (opera), 13–14
Martin, Bradley, 5, 14, 15
Mary, queen of England, 88, 119, 124
Mary of Burgundy, 50
Matabeleland (Zimbabwe), 38
Maximilian, Emperor, 50
May, Edna, 58
Mayer, Louis B., 158–59
Mazarins, 11–12
Mazer, Joseph, 83
M. Belmont VerStandig Inc., 205
Means, Gaston, 78
Meditations (Marcus Aurelius), 30
melee (small white diamonds), 83, 183–88, 203, 222–23, 232
men:
African-American, 250–57
diamonds purchased by, 52, 103–11, 136, 187, 203, 228, 233
diamonds worn by, 46–47, 74, 152, 229–33, 251
mercury poisoning, 49–50
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM), 138, 143, 158–59, 164, 169
Metropolitan Opera House, 13–14, 62
Mikimoto pearls, 179, 311
millennials, 310–11
moissanite, 309, 312
Mondschein, Murray (Fred Leighton), 295–96, 300
Monroe, Marilyn, 136, 141, 258
biopic of, 293–95
Morgan, J. P., 15, 64, 100
Morgan family, 62
Morgan Memorial Hall of Gems, 89
Motion Picture Magazine, 140–41
MPLA (People’s Movement for the Liberation of Angola), 268
Mughals, 46
museums, diamonds exhibited in, 11, 89, 93, 137
music scene:
diamonds and, 245–55, 278–79
see also hip hop; specific performers and songs
Mussolini, Benito, 162
MVI Marketing, 238–39, 316
My Love Affair with Jewelry (Taylor), 165
My Week with Marilyn, 294
Namibia, 181, 217, 269, 273, 276, 281
Napoleanic Wars, 21
Napolean III, 10
Natal, 29
National Association of Jewelers, 42
National Family Opinion Inc., 148–49
National Jeweler, 223, 236
National Jewelers’ Board of Trade, 82–83
National Review, 289
National Velvet, 159
Native Lands Act (1913), 100
Nesline, Joe, 206
wife of, 209
Netherlands, 20–21, 24, 41
New Netherlands Bank of New York, 84, 85
Newport, R.I., 152
New Rush, see De Beers Rush
Newsday, 153, 154
Newsweek, 216
Newton, Isaac, 194
New York, N.Y., 54, 73, 120, 132, 140–41, 144, 168, 247, 261, 265, 309
Cartier in, 64, 69, 131
as diamond-cutting center, 42, 83, 243
diamond industry centered in, 79–97, 100–102, 147, 171–72, 243
diamond promotions, 100–102, 105–9
jewelry district in, 6–7, 81–82, 85–86, 230, 249
social elite of, xiv, 1–18, 41, 137, 230
New Yorker, The, 80, 81, 92, 103, 154, 232
New York Herald, 143
New York State Retail Jewelers’ Convention, 148
New York Times, 11–12, 16, 44, 65, 70–71, 76, 88, 92, 122, 149, 152, 171, 172, 175, 178, 207, 208, 259, 275, 288
Nicholas II, tsar of Russia, 63
Nixon, Richard, 175, 206, 214
Notorious B.I.G., 253, 258
Number One, see Jonker diamond
Nur ul-Ain (Light of the Eye) diamond, 241
N. W. Ayer & Son, 100–115, 131, 136, 137, 138–41, 144–45, 183, 186–88, 189, 190, 217–19, 223–25, 228, 229, 231, 236, 240, 298, 301, 318
Oberon, Merle, 138, 139
Onassis, Aristotle, 176
Onassis, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, 141, 143
O’Neal, Shaquille, 259
opals, 42, 43, 52, 297–98
open pit mines, 181, 183, 234
Operation Clean Sweep, 272, 277
Oppenheimer, Ernest, 99–101, 114, 123, 180, 184, 235, 236, 282
Oppenheimer, Harry, 100–101, 114, 180–81, 184, 217, 224, 231, 235–36, 282
Oppenheimer, Mary, 123
Oppenheimer, Nicholas “Nicky,” 282–84
Orange River, 22, 24
Orapa mine, 181
Order of the Golden Fleece, 74
O’Reilly, Jack, 22–23
Oxford University, C. Rhodes’s preoccupation with, 19, 29, 31–33, 39
Paley, Babe, 163
Palmer, Bertha, 57–58
Palmer, Potter, 57
panic of 1893, 2–4, 41
Panthère, La (Cartier’s signature image), 130, 171
Paramount, 149–50
Paris, 47, 70, 73–74, 168, 194–95, 261
diamond culture in, 5, 9, 59–64, 129, 164, 171
Paris Exhibition (1878), 9
Parke-Bernet auction, 174, 176–79
Parsons, Louella O., 139
Partnership Africa Canada (PAC), 273, 276, 277, 291
pavé, 130, 240
pearls, 43, 61, 70, 85, 108, 124, 143, 174, 225
cultured, 179, 311
pear cut, xv, 61, 85, 167, 174
Pelham-Clinton-Hope, Henry Francis, 68, 72–73, 75
Pell, Mrs. Herbert, 15, 16
pendants, hip hop, 254–55, 257–58
People, 210
Peregrina, La, 174
peridot, 42
Persia, 46–47
Pharrell, 263
Philadelphia, 54, 142
as diamond cutting center, 42
in marketing promotions, 100, 102, 105–6
Philadelphia Story, The, 143–44
Phillips, Frank, 112
Picasso, Pablo, 115
art investment in, 215
Pierre Hotel, 171
pink diamonds, 241–43
platinum, in jewelry design, 42, 62–63, 69, 109, 129, 140, 141, 151, 257, 263
Plaza Hotel, 137
Pond’s Extract Company, Pond’s Cold Cream, 111
pop culture, diamonds in, 136, 172, 277–79
Porter, Cole, 138
Prada, Miuccia, 296–97
“Precious Stone Jewels” catalogue, 176
Premier Diamond Company, 82, 85
Premier mine, 86, 174
press:
diamond discoveries covered in, 24
diamond investment covered in, 215–16
diamond promotion in, 64–65, 70, 72, 89, 91–93, 121–22, 125, 139, 142, 144, 154, 164, 175, 294–95
elite covered in, 16, 76, 221
sensationalist and tabloid, 126, 137, 144, 161–62, 165, 196–97
princess cut, xv
Proddow, Penny, 125
Prohibition, 83
Project Superpressure, 200–202, 211, 307
prospectors, 24–28, 34, 87, 93, 234
Proust, Marcel, 196
Public Enemy, 251–52, 279
Puff Daddy, 258
Pulitzer, Mrs. Joseph, 13
Pure Grown Diamonds (formerly Gemesis), 307–10, 312
Puritans, thimbles exchanged by, 51
Queen of Diamonds (E. W. McLean), 61, 70
racism:
blood diamonds and, 278
in South Africa, 21, 38–39, 100, 180–81, 235, 281
radio promotion, 145–46
Raekwon, 279
Rainier III, prince of Monaco, 141–43
Rainsford, William, 2
Rapaport, Martin, 271–73, 277, 289, 291
Rapaport Diamond Report, 271
Rawstone, Fleetwood, 27
Reader’s Digest, 125
red-carpet, 294–99
REGARDS rings, 51
Regent Diamond, 11
Resolutions 1173 and 1176, 268–69
Revolutionary United Front (RUF), 271–72, 274, 277–78
Reynolds, Debbie, 161
Reynolds, Evalyn McLean “Evie,” 77
rhinestones, 16, 225
Rhodes, Cecil, 19–20, 24, 28–40, 55, 99–100, 197, 217, 267, 300, 315
Barnato bested by, 34–38, 194
death of, 39
diamond hegemony of, 38, 180, 193, 282
as prime minister of South Africa, 38–39
Rhodes, Herbert, 20, 24, 28–31
Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), 38
Rhodes scholarship, 39
Rice, Glen, 259
Richemont group, 304
Rio Tinto Diamonds, 237, 242, 245, 309
Rise and Fall of Diamonds, The: The Shattering of a Brilliant Illusion (Epstein), 218–20
Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 93, 133
Robinson, Bill “Bojangles,” 90
Roc-A-Fella Records, 254–55, 278
Rockefeller, John D., Jr., 93
Rockefeller Center, 133
Rockefeller family, 62
Rogers, Ginger, 169
Rolexes, 257, 261
“Romance of Diamonds, The,” 146
Roman Holiday, 162
Romanovs, 62
Rome, 161–68, 170, 171
ancient, 50–51
Roosevelt, Eleanor, 44–45
Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, 44–45, 109, 283, 288
Roosevelt, Theodore, 45
Roosevelt Hotel, Hollywood, 169, 294
Rothschild, Nathan, 35, 36
rough diamonds, xiv-xv, 79, 89, 90, 93, 95, 121, 147, 174, 183, 244, 270, 283
appearance of, 22, 25, 46, 89
future projections for, 315
largest, 86–87
regulation changes for, 274–75
Rough Trade, A: The Role of Companies and Governments in the Angolan Conflict, 267, 269–71
royalty:
American fascination with, 3, 4–5, 58, 121, 142
diamonds associated with, xiii, 4–5, 46, 55, 60, 62–63, 67–68, 117–34, 189, 252, 314, 316
diamonds collected by, 9–11, 15, 67, 73–75, 88, 93, 122, 128–29, 230, 242
Hollywood stars as American alternative to, 134, 157
rappers inspired by, 252
see also specific monarchs and families
rubies, 42, 107–8, 142, 160, 164, 166–67, 179
Rumsey, Elma, see Cartier, Elma Rumsey
Run-D.M.C., 251–52
rush rings, 52
Ruskin, John, 32–33
Russia, 63, 75, 78, 276, 281, 315
lab-grown diamonds in, 307–8
royalty of, xvi, 62
Sankoh, Foday, 277
sapphires, 74, 130, 139, 164, 221
sardonyx, 42
S. Bulgari, 163
Schenectady, N.Y., 200–201
Schlumberger, Jean, 151, 153, 296
science:
in cutting, 305
in diamond synthesis, 193–211, 213, 306–13
Scientific American, 199
Scott, L’Wren, 299
Scott, Peter Paul, 252–53, 257
Sears, Richard Warren, 53–55
Sears, Roebuck & Co., 52–54, 101, 207–8, 228, 303
Sebba, Anne, 129
security, 70, 74, 87, 90, 93, 152, 175, 226–27
Selva, Rebecca, 296–98
Selznick, David O., 169–70
Seyne, La, 65, 73
Shakur, Tupac, 254
Shawty Lo, 255
Sherman Antitrust Act, 101, 110, 283
Shintoism, 190
Shipley, Robert M., 112, 145
Siberia, 182–84
Sierra Leone, 276
human rights violations in, 265, 271–73, 275, 277–79, 282, 291
sightholder system, 184–85, 242, 284–86, 288
Sikhs, 47
silver, 9, 45n, 51, 62, 96, 152, 164
Simpson, Bessie Wallis Warfield, see Windsor, Wallis Simpson, duchess of
Simpson, Ernest, 118–20, 126–27
simulants, 203–10, 226, 309, 311–12
Singapore, 309–10
Singh, Ranjit, 47
“Single Ladies,” 301–2
Six Voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Les (Tavernier), 73, 241
Skinner, George D., 109
Skylark, 139
slaves, xvi, 21
Slick Rick, 251–52
Smillie, Ian, 291
Smith, Bevy, 251, 253, 255, 260, 280
Smithsonian, 154
smuggling, 61, 275, 290
snake (Bulgari’s signature image), 171
sneakers, 262
Snoop Dogg, 253
social media, “ring selfies” on, 302
solitaires, 50, 108–10, 123, 141, 187, 208, 250
Song of Bernadette, 170
Sorel, Agnès, 47–50
Sotheby’s, 130, 171
Sothern, Sara, 157–59, 164–65
South Africa, 139, 196, 202–3, 276
diamond mines in, 4, 9, 19–40, 45, 86, 145, 146, 147, 174, 194, 217, 231, 234, 241, 269, 273, 315
first diamond discoveries in, 22–24
racism in, 21, 38–39, 100, 180–81, 235, 281
sanctions against, 180, 181
Windsor family’s trip to, 121–25
World War I in, 82–83
see also De Beers diamond syndicate
South African Railways and Harbors, 122
Soviet Union, 247, 268
de Beers and, 182–84, 203, 223, 232, 270, 281
fall of, 281
synthesized diamonds in, 226
Spencer, Diana, see Diana, princess of Wales
Spencer, Win, 118
sports stars, 233, 259
Standard Steel Company, 230
Star of Africa, 92
Star of South Africa, 23–24, 28
Star of the East, 61, 64, 67, 70, 76, 132
status anxiety, 5, 6, 314
Stewart, Alexander Turney “A.T.,” 6
stock market, 53, 201, 214
crash (1929), 85–86, 94
Strong, Herb, 200–201
strontium titanate, 206, 226
superstitions, xiv, 43, 46, 48, 52
debunking of, 133
see also Hope Diamond, curse of
“Suzy Says” column, 178
Switzerland, 206, 228, 275
synthetic diamonds, 193–211, 213, 225, 226–28, 236
lab-grown vs., 311
mined vs., 210–11, 213, 312
Tanzania (formerly Tanganyika), 181
Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste, 67–68, 70, 73, 75, 230, 243
Tavernier Blue diamond (beau violet), 67, 73, 241
Taylor, Elizabeth, xii, 157–68, 257
and Burton, 163, 165–68, 172, 173–80
diamond collection of, 160–61, 173–79
Todd’s engagement ring for, 160, 166
Taylor, Francis, 157–58
Taylor-Burton Diamond, 174–80, 188, 221, 280
TechnoMarine, 261
Temple, Shirley, 90, 158
tenders, 242–43
That Uncertain Feeling, 138, 139
Tiffany, Charles Louis “King of Diamonds,” 6–10, 13, 45, 55
Tiffany, Comfort, 7
Tiffany, Harriet Young, 6
Tiffany, Young & Ellis, 7–8
Tiffany & Co., 45, 52, 58, 85, 97, 101, 131, 137, 147, 239, 280, 283, 287
birthstones promoted by, 42
blue box of, 8
catalogue, 8, 16, 42, 52
display windows of, xv, 143, 147, 150
establishment of, 6–13, 16
expansion of, 154
Great Depression as challenge to, 94
leadership change and reinventing of, 151–54
less costly alternatives to, 52–54
naming of, 9
at N.Y. World’s Fair, 96
prosperity of, 149–55
signature blue color of, 8
Tiffany and Young, 6–7
Tiffany Ball, 152
Tiffany Diamond, 10, 96
new setting for, 150–52
Tiffany Setting, 45, 50, 52, 201, 249, 303
Time, 232
Todd, Liza, 160
Todd, Mike (Avrom Hirsch Goldbogen), 160, 161, 164, 166, 167, 174
Toison d’Or (Golden Fleece), 74
Tokyo, 261, 262
tourism, 123, 162–63
Toussaint, Jeanne, 129–30, 296
tremblant brooches, 166–67
Trowbridge, J. T., 104
Turkey, 62, 65, 67, 68
turquoise, 42
Tutankhamen, 252, 262
20th Century Fox, 90, 136, 161, 170
IIa Technologies, 309–10
2Pac, 254
Tyson, Mike, 253
Udall & Ballou, 94, 232
UNITA (National Union for the Total Independence of Angola), 268–71
United Hospital Fund, 133
United Nations, 180, 281
international diamond certification scheme of, 275–77
sanctions by, 268–71
United States:
as major consumer of diamonds, 41, 81, 82, 314
wealthy and social elite of, 1–18, 40, 57–78, 82, 84–85, 93, 111, 119, 141–42, 152, 163, 230, 252
Vaal River, 24, 26, 27, 30
Van Buren, Abigail “Dear Abby,” 228
Van Cleef & Arpels, 86, 96–97, 125, 128, 131, 141, 143, 154, 155, 208, 296, 304
Vanderbilt family, 2, 3, 62
Vanguard, 122
Vanilla Ice, 253
van Niekerk, Schalk, 22–24
Van Stondeg family, 204
Ver Standig, Helen, 203–10, 215–16, 218, 226, 309
VerStandig, John, 206
VerStandig, Maurice Belmont “Mac,” 204–9
Vever, 5, 60
Vibe, 280
Vietnam War, 174
V.I.P.s, The, 168
Virgin and Child (Fouquet), 49
Vogue, 107, 110–11, 125, 128, 137, 151, 152, 171, 187
Vooruitzigt farm, 27–28
Voulgaris, Sotirios, see Bulgari, Sotirio
Waldorf hotel, 3, 14, 16–18, 41, 137
Wall, Paul, 272
Wall Street Journal, 207, 236, 289
Walsh, Thomas, 58–59, 61, 66
Wanamaker, John, 54–55
Wanamaker’s department stores, 54–55, 58
Warhol, Andy, 172
Washington, D.C., 64, 154, 204–6, 291
social elite of, 57–58, 69–70, 76, 118, 132
Washington Post, 58, 71, 77, 108, 142, 204, 205, 215
Washington Times Herald, 78
watches, 257, 261
wealth:
excesses of, xvi, 1–18, 57–78, 178–80, 188, 257–59, 316
new international sources of, 313
Webb, David, 179
wedding bands, 44, 51, 108, 139, 147, 148, 228, 250, 300
Weinstein brothers, 293
Wellington, Madame (persona), 203, 207–9, 216, 226
Wellington Jewels, 204, 207–11, 225, 306
Wernher, Julius, 184–99
West, Kanye, 254–55, 257, 278–79
West, Mae, 144
Whalen, Grover, 95
Wharton School of business, 210
White, Barry, 251
Whitehouse, Mrs. Sheldon, 152
Whitney, Marylou, 227
Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?, 168
Wilding, Michael, 160, 180
Williams, Bryan “Birdman,” 254
Williams, Gardner, 25
Williams, Hype, 279
Williams, Michelle, 293–95, 299
Willson, T. Edgar, 71–72
Windsor, Edward, duke of, see Edward VIII, king of England
Windsor, Wallis Simpson, duchess of, 117–21, 143
jewelry collection of, 125–31
Windsor family, 121–26
see also specific members
Windsor Jewels, 228
Winston, Edna, 80, 132–33
Winston, Harry, 79–93, 101, 154, 249, 256, 298
as “King of Diamonds,” 84, 174–75
promotional strategy of, 131–34, 154, 169–70
women:
diamonds purchased by, 233
diamonds worn by, 4–5, 41–55, 80, 84, 99–115, 136, 203, 223, 228, 230, 232, 238–40
promotional targeting of married and professional, 187–88
women’s movement, 187–88
Woolworth family, 163
World Diamond Council, 274
World’s Fair (New York;, 1939–1940), Jewelry Group at, 94–97, 129
World War I, 118, 163
as challenge to diamond industry, 82–83, 97, 99
World War II, 49, 109–11, 118, 121, 122, 125, 138, 158, 163, 173, 182, 205, 214, 242, 283, 299, 314
American prosperity after, 131
as challenge to diamond industry, 96–97, 128
Japan after, 189–91
marriage traditions affected by, 106–8
Wu-Tang Clan, 272
Yang, Ben, see Baller, Ben
Yohe, May, 68, 75
Young, John Burnett, 6, 8, 9–10
Yugler, Al, 176
yuppies, 225
Yurman, David, 239
Zales, 185–86, 233
Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia), 38, 291, 292