SODA DAM IS ONE OF THE NATURAL PHENOMENA ALONG THE JEMEZ SCENIC BYWAY

14

JEMEZ BYWAY

ANCIENT PUEBLO TO SECRET CITY: HOT SPRINGS AND SPANISH MISSIONS

ESTIMATED LENGTH: 163 miles

ESTIMATED TIME: Anywhere from a half-day to a weekend

GETTING THERE: US 550, NM 4. 25 miles north of Bernalillo on US 550 to San Ysidro. Go right on NM 4, which runs through the Canon de San Diego along the Jemez River. Proceed through Jemez National Recreation Area of the Santa Fe National Forest.

HIGHLIGHTS: The route includes attractions including hot springs, Jemez Pueblo, Jemez Springs, Jemez State Historic Site, Battleship Rock, Soda Dam, La Cueva, the Valle Caldera, and Bandelier National Monument, all the way into Los Alamos; from there it is possible to loop back to Albuquerque, continue north to Espanola and on into Taos, or head down the hill to Santa Fe

As a road trip, the Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway has it all—glorious scenery in all seasons, Native American culture, western history, Spanish mission ruins, Bandelier National Monument, hot springs, hiking, fishing, camping, fun cafés, B&Bs and comfortable lodgings. You can style a getaway anywhere between rustic and posh. In fact, the Jemez Byway is so accessible from both Albuquerque and Santa Fe that it can become a favorite getaway. In winter, it is a favorite of cross-country skiers.

If you are setting out from Albuquerque, drive north on 4th Street through the Alameda neighborhood. At the northwest corner of Alameda and North 4th, see the Glenna Goodacre bronze sculpture, Olympic Wannabees. Goodacre is best known for her Vietnam Women’s Memorial sculpture in Washington, DC. Across 4th Street, see the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary Catholic Church, with its distinctive double towers, dating to 1734. Other significant neighborhood locations are the Adobe Theater and El Pinto Restaurant. Continue across the bridge crossing the wetlands, bear left at the roundabout, and head north to Bernalillo along NM 313 for 26 miles. This scenic, straight-as-a-string road, a segment of pre-1937 Route 66 as well as a section of the original Camino Real, passes through Sandia Pueblo and, in season, is a habitat for sandhill cranes, geese, and even bald eagles. Pass Shady Lakes fishponds and Sandia Lakes, a recreational park operated by Sandia Pueblo, on the left. The road gives a superb view of the 10,000-foot Sandia (watermelon) mountains on the right. They form the eastern edge of the Rio Grande Rift and were uplifted 10 million years ago as part of the formation of the Rio Grande Rift. They are referred to as “turtle mountain” in Indian cosmology. Ahead to the left is the first glimpse of the Jemez (HAY-mez) Mountains, formed of volcanic remnants. Hidden high within these mountains is the “secret city” of Los Alamos, home of the Manhattan Project.

West of Bernalillo, a village dating to 1598, on the south side of US 550 is an historical marker noting that the pueblo province of Tiguez served as winter headquarters for conquistador Francisco Vasquez de Coronado in 1540–42. Bernalillo was founded after the Spanish reconquest in 1692 by Diego de Vargas. Drive through this traditional Spanish village, now growing but retaining much of its old-time flavor, along Camino Del Pueblo. The original Range Café and Lizard Lounge, a colorful explosion of local art, serves fine huevos rancheros with green chile as well as American comfort food. Their signature dessert is Death by Lemon. The restaurant is located next to Rose’s, a shop selling Indian pottery. The building was, at the turn of the 20th century, a general store known as the Seligman Store, where young German and Russian Jewish immigrant men came to be trained in the mercantile business and then were sent out across the state to open supply shops in rural areas.

RED ROCKS HIGHLIGHT THE ROADWAY EN ROUTE TO JEMEZ PUEBLO

At the traffic light, go left on US 550, then cross the Rio Grande. Go 2.9 miles west on US 550 to find a sign on the right directing you toward the Coronado Historic Site, Bernalillo. Known as Kuaua Pueblo, the northernmost of twelve pueblos of the province of Tiguez, it has been partially excavated and is notable for the restored Indian murals dating to the 1300s as well as the restored painted kiva it is possible to climb into on a ladder. The area has seen human habitation for 10,000 years. The visitor center was designed by architect John Gaw Meem, who popularized Santa Fe Style architecture, and this was the first state historic monument, built over 80 years ago. Panoramic views of the Sandia Mountains and the Rio Grande form a perfect picnic spot at sunset as they turn rosy in the evening light. Admission charged.

Continue on US 550 West through the desert scrub, and pass the pueblos of Santa Ana and Zia, as the red rocks that are the distinctive markers of the Jemez country emerge. Zia Pueblo actually is the origin of the New Mexico symbol that honors the four directions. At 21 miles beyond Bernalillo is the entrance to the Ojito Wilderness, a 12,000-acre rugged, austere, and dramatic wilderness area for hiking, primitive camping, and horseback riding. Ruins of previous civilizations, including Spanish, Pueblo and Navajo, as well as shark’s tooth and other fossils remain, telling their story to the sky and passersby willing to stop and look. Almost immediately you will see the sign for the Perea Nature Trail, a short, gentle walk through the desertscape.

At the junction of NM 4 and US 550, go right toward San Ysidro on to NM 4, a narrow, winding two-lane road. Cross Jemez Creek. Jemez Pueblo, one of New Mexico’s 19 Indian pueblos, each of which is a sovereign state, is about 5 miles from the little village of San Ysidro. The 3,400 souls who live here refer to their village as Walatowa, from the Towa word meaning “this is the place.” While Jemez Pueblo is not accessible to the public other than on declared feast days, much can be learned about their ancient agricultural way of life from the exhibit in the Walatowa Visitor Center, across from the Red Rocks at 7413 NM 4. You will find Indian-made goods such as rugs and pottery, beverages, and a small walk-through exhibit that tells the story of the tribe, known for their fine pottery. The pueblo invites the public to attend dances on feast days; please check with Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, www.indianpueblo.org, for dates. This is the sole Towa-speaking pueblo remaining.

DELIGHTFULLY CLUTTERED PONDEROSA WINERY PRODUCES SUPERB VINTAGES

For a short side trip to a rustic winery, go right on NM 290 for 3 miles to the village of Ponderosa, so named for the logging industry that was vital there. If you like photographing deserted houses returning to the earth, you will have a field day in this not-quite ghost town. The main attraction is Ponderosa Winery, guarded by a lazy Newfoundland and a vocal Chihuahua. Surrounded by half-century-old vineyards, the wooden house holding the winery is like something out of a fairy tale such as Hansel and Gretel, and the tasting room, crowded with knick-knacks resembles the bargain room of your local thrift store. The wine produced here is from New Mexico grapes, either grown on this hill or down south in Deming. This is the antithesis of a slick, shiny winery, trading on its homegrown unpretentiousness and disregard for polish in favor of quality. The pours are generous, and there is an extensive wine list from which to choose, plus a wall loaded with prize ribbons as testament to good quality.

The road is filled with gentle swoops and curves, many leading to river access and picnic areas. Ahead is the best view of Guadalupe Mesa, said to be where the Virgin Mary revealed herself in 1947. In her honor, Jemez Pueblo dances the matachine dances in both the Spanish and Indian versions on December 12. Guadalupe Mesa served as a defensive stand for the Jemez people against the Spanish; there are ruins atop the mesa and a hike that can be accessed near Gilman Tunnels.

Jemez Springs, a picturesque village dedicated to the care and feeding of tourists, offers B&Bs, cafés, galleries and other pleasant distractions, such as the Jemez Springs Bath House, whose Victorian-era baths, updated, are fed by a rich mineralized spring, with indoor private soaking tubs, an outdoor riverside tub, and massage and spa treatments; and Giggling Springs Spa. The classic western cowboy bar is the landmark Los Ojos Restaurant & Saloon, a dark, wood-paneled place with a roaring fire in the massive stone fireplace, billiards, and old-timers hunched over brewskis at the bar. The feature is prime rib specials on the weekend. A patio addition is available in warmer weather to enjoy the Famous Jemez burger and tasty red chile enchiladas. Highway 4 Coffee is a good place to pick up a fresh cinnamon roll and latte or stop for a home-cooked meal. The atmosphere refreshingly harkens back to the 1960s or 1970s, a sweet time warp where people are studying the I-Ching. Casa Blanca and the Inn @6300 are two of the beautiful B&B’s, and Jemez Fine Art Gallery is worth a visit.

DETOUR

The Gilman Tunnels

Back on NM 4, watch on the left for the NM 485 sign. This road leads 5 miles on NM 485 to the Gilman Tunnels, though access is restricted. NM 485 follows the Guadalupe River Canyon, with its dramatic waterfall. The Gilman Tunnels were blasted out of the rock by the Santa Fe Northwestern Railway through the canyon used to haul lumber from the Jemez Mountains, used in the early 1900s. The tunnels and canyon have been filming locations of several Hollywood hits such as 3:10 to Yuma and The Scorch Trials. They are named for William H. Gilman, former CEO of the SFNW Railway. The road is paved but very narrow. Just past the tunnels, the pavement ends. There is a gate across the road at that point which is often closed well into May because of snow and poor road conditions until the spring and summer heat dries things out.

Across the highway, find the Bodhi Manda Zen Center, at 13 Bodhi Drive, a Zen retreat offering private workshops and open to the general public from December to March with a four-room guest house available by reservation. The public is also invited to attend various Zen ceremonies throughout the year. The center was founded in 1973 by Kyozan Joshu Roshi, a Rinzai lineage Japanese Zen Master.

The Jemez Historic Site is located 0.5 mile north of Jemez Springs on NM 4. It was established in 1935 to protect the ancient pueblo and the 17th-century ruins of San Jose de los Jemez Mission Church, with its 7-foot-thick walls and unusual octagonal bell tower, dating to 1621–22. The indigenous name, Gisewa (GEE-say-wah), means “by the sulphur” in the Jemez language. This is the ancestral village of the Jemez people, who occupied this site for hundreds of years prior to the Spanish Entrada in 1540, subsisting on farming and hunting. Constructed by Jemez Indians according to plans by Spanish missionaries, using local materials, the mission was abandoned in 1640, well before the Pueblo Revolt in 1680. It is made of the remains of a 14th-century Towa pueblo. Newer archaeological digs are in process to learn more about this mysterious site. An easy 0.5-mile handicapped-accessible, self-guided trail encompasses the site from the visitor center, which also contains an interpretive exhibit. It is possible to climb the ladder down into a kiva, or ceremonial chamber.

CLIMB DOWN INTO THE KIVA AT JEMEZ HISTORIC SITE IF YOU DARE

Soda Dam, 2 miles north on Jemez Springs on NM 4, is a 300-foot dam made of natural mineral deposits. From the parking lot, it is only a short hike down to the river and to Spence hot springs.

Battleship Rock, 5 miles north of Jemez Springs on NM 4, marks an easy 2-mile popular hike to the Jemez River. From the parking lot, it is a 3.4-mile moderate, dog-friendly hike out and back to McCauley Hot Springs, with its flowing waterfall.

At the junction of NM 4 with NM 126, come to La Cueva. Go left on NM 126 to reach Fenton Lake State Park, only 33 miles northwest of San Ysidro via NM 4. A pretty 28-acre lake is stocked with rainbow trout, plus a natural population of wild German browns tempts fishermen year-round. Ringed with tall evergreens, there is no prettier place to picnic than this little jewel of a lake. It is possible to keep traveling on NM 126 about another half-hour to Cuba, to rejoin US 550 and travel on to the Four Corners Region of Chaco Canyon and Farmington.

In the little crossroads of La Cueva, the gateway to the Santa Fe National Forest, find the pleasant Elk Mountain Lodge at 37485 NM 126 (575-829-3159), a rustic-elegant log lodge with access to wildlife viewing, privacy and seclusion. Rooms come with continental breakfast and an in-room whirlpool spa, making it the perfect getaway for the outdoor romantic. This area is especially popular with cross-country skiers, particularly at the East Fork of the Jemez River, 10 miles north of La Cueva on NM 4. This trail is also mountain bike-friendly. Good cross-country skiing abounds in the La Cueva area, including Redondo Campground, Las Griegos area, and west of La Cueva on NM 126 and Valle San Antonio Road to Upper San Antonio Canyon. San Antonio Hot Springs are 4 miles each way and make a popular, challenging cross-country ski trip. (I skied in and out and was revived by a bowl of green chile stew at Los Ojos Bar.) In addition, there are a few cafés here. Las Conchas Trail provides moderate forested hiking along the East Fork of the Jemez River

SIDE TRIP

NM 126

One of the prettiest, and most challenging, backroads New Mexico has to offer is NM 126 between La Cueva and Cuba. This road is impassable in winter and virtually impassable when wet in summer, when the dirt portion turns to slippery clay. From NM 4, heading north at La Cueva, take a left (west) on NM 126 and travel to Fenton Lake State Park, 9.6 miles on NM 126, then 1 mile on FS Road 314. NM 126 is unpaved between mile markers 33 and 13.5, and the curves are so sharp it sometimes feels like your wheels are traversing tree limbs. During this stretch, it is necessary to go slower than slow. While the road is not mandatory 4WD, it is a good idea. Large vehicles will not be able to make it through, however, and bumpy is an understatement. Well-treed curves requiring your full attention appear as you go north past Seven Springs Hatchery, remodeled for breeding native Rio Grande cutthroat trout. The road winds through woodlands to Cuba, gateway to the San Pedro Parks Wilderness. Near Fenton Lake off Hwy 126 is the very beautiful San Antonio Campground, which is handicapped-accessible and boasts some great fishing spots. For information, call the Jemez Ranger District office. As you travel toward Cuba, pass by several lovely campgrounds, such as the Rio de las Vacas and the Clear Creek. This is one road for the adventurous soul.

FISHING AT FENTON LAKE IS ONE OF SUMMER’S SUPERLATIVE PLEASURES

Returning to NM 4, climb out of Jemez Canyon and start winding around the narrow two-lane road. As you gain altitude, arrive at the next natural phenomenon, Valle Grande, one of the world’s largest volcanic calderas (89,000 acres). The explosion that created it launched rock as far away as Kansas when it was formed during the Pleistocene. Known today as the Valles Caldera National Preserve, this vast bowl sits at an elevation of 11,253 feet. From the highway viewpoint, it is possible to see some of the 45,000-strong elk herd. The preserve itself is under management of the National Park Service and offers a rich selection of recreational activities, most of which must be made by reservation in advance with fees. Trout fishing on San Antonio Creek is legendary, as is hunting, hiking, bicycling and more. The area, once a ranch and before that a land grant known as Baca Location No. 1, has a long history of traditional use including ranching and tribal hunting and ceremonials. All interests are today seeking a balance to serve the many communities that have dwelled on this land over time.

In 16.3 miles, arrive at Bandelier National Monument. As of this writing, New Mexico Senator Martin Heinrich was working toward getting Bandelier National Monument designated a national park to gain more protection for its natural and cultural resources. It is the most visited New Mexico attraction and a sacred site to six Indian pueblos. Established in 1916, Bandelier shows evidence of human habitation going back over 11,000 years. Here are 35,000 acres, or 50 square miles, of mesa and canyon country, hundreds of petroglyphs, Indian ruins, and cliff dwellings carved into the soft rock, along with over 70 miles of hiking trails. Due to the massive Conchas Fire of 2011, trail access may be limited. It is home to wildlife and endangered species. It is named for the Swiss archaeologist who was among the earliest explorers of Native American cultures. Heavy traffic in summer may make for a wait to get in. The Visitor Center has plenty of interactive, kid-friendly displays, and the video on the Pajarito Plateau is excellent. This is still one of the best places to be touched by the spirit of the ancestors who dwelled here from 1100 to 1500. They are believed to be descendants of the Ancestral Puebloans who inhabited Four Corners Chaco Canyon, and the outliers, who then migrated closer to the Rio Grande to become the ancestors of today’s pueblo-dwellers. An hour-long paved loop trail through Frijoles Canyon leads through ruins and cliff dwellings. Or you can go much farther afield into the backcountry along miles of trails; backcountry permits may be needed. Ranger-led night walks and night sky programs are available, too.

VALLES CALDERA NATIONAL PRESERVE IS PARADISE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE THE OUTDOORS

From Bandelier, it’s only about 20 minutes via NM 4 west and NM 501 east to Los Alamos, site of the WWII-era Manhattan Project that developed the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima. Areas of forest along the way have been devastated by recent fires. Los Alamos, with its high per-capita rate of PhDs, is still the Los Alamos National Laboratory and the nation’s nerve center for defense development and other high-tech activities. The new national park, with noncontiguous locations, yields interpretations of the social and cultural life of those who worked on the Manhattan Project. Two museums of note worth visiting here: the Los Alamos History Museum and the Bradbury Science Museum. A stroll along Bathtub Row shows where early scientists lived, and Fuller Lodge, the John Gaw Meem–designed dining hall where scientists socialized, was originally designed to serve the Los Alamos Boys’ School. The WWII-era infrastructure of Los Alamos is being preserved by its declaration as the Manhattan Project National Historic Park. Guided tours are available by reservation. Los Alamos is a thriving city of 20,000, and there are plenty of places to grab a bite or a brew. From here you can continue on to Espanola and north to Taos or return down the hill to Santa Fe. Or simply reverse course and return to your starting point via NM 4.

DETOUR

T’sankawi Ruin Trail

The admission is included in Bandelier admission, otherwise free. The trail is immediately north of White Rock on NM 4. Look for the sign and gate on the west side of NM 4, just south of the Y-shaped stoplight intersection on East Jemez Road. It is an easy walk to unexcavated ruins with panoramic view across the Rio Grande Valley to Santa Fe and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The name translates from Tewa as “village between two canyons at the clump of sharp, round cactus.” A 1.5-mile loop trail begins at the parking area along NM 4.

IN THE AREA

Accommodations

CASA BLANCA GUEST HOUSE, 17521 NM 4, Jemez Springs. Call 575-829-3579. $$$.

HILLTOP HOUSE, 400 Trinity at Central Avenue, Los Alamos. Call 505-662-244. $$.

TRAILS END RV PARK, 37695 NM 126. Call 575-829-4072. $.

SOAK AWAY STRESS IN JEMEZ SPRINGS’ VICTORIAN BATH HOUSE, WHERE GEOTHERMAL MINERAL WATER IS PIPED INTO PRIVATE TUBS

Attractions and Recreation

BRADBURY SCIENCE MUSEUM, 1350 Central Avenue, Los Alamos. Call 505-667-4444.

CORONADO HISTORIC SITE, 485 Kuaua Road, Bernalillo. Call 505-867-5351.

FULLER LODGE ART CENTER, 2131 Central Avenue, Los Alamos. Call 505-662-1635.

JEMEZ HISTORIC SITE, 18160 NM 4, Jemez Springs. Call 575-829-3530.

JEMEZ RANGER DISTRICT, Call 505-829-3535.

LOS ALAMOS HISTORIC MUSEUM & SHOP, 1050 Bathtub Row, Los Alamos. Call 505-662-4493.

SANDOVAL COUNTY VISITOR CENTER, 264 Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo. Call 505-867-8687.

SANTA FE NATIONAL FOREST, 11 Forest Lane, Santa Fe. Call 505-438-5300.

T’SANKAWI RUINS TRAIL (INCLUDED IN BANDELIER ADMISSION), Call 505-672-3861.

VALLES CALDERA NATIONAL PRESERVE, Call 575 829-4100 x3. Website: www.nps.gov/vall/planyourvisit/permitsandreservations.htm.

WALATOWA VISITOR CENTER, 7413 NM 4, Jemez Pueblo. Call 575-834-7235.

Dining/Drinks

BLUE WINDOW BISTRO, 813 Central Avenue, Los Alamos. Call 505-662-6305. $$$.

HIGHWAY 4 COFFEE, 17502 NM 4, Jemez Springs. Call 575-829-4655. $$.

LOS OJOS RESTAURANT & SALOON, NM 4, Jemez Springs. Call 505-829-3547. $.

PAJARITO PUB, 614 Trinity Drive, Los Alamos. Call 505-662-8877. $$.

PONDEROSA WINERY, 3171 NM 290, Ponderosa. $$–$$$.

THE RANGE CAFÉ, 925 South Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo. Call 505-867-1700. $$.

WATCH FRYBREAD MADE TO ORDER FOR YOUR FRESHLY MADE INDIAN TACO ACROSS THE HIGHWAY FROM THE WALATOWA VISITOR CENTER

Events

SAN LORENZO FIESTAS, held in the second weekend of August, Bernalillo celebrates San Lorenzo Day with matachine dances, processions, and a street fair—a tradition over 350 years old.

LIGHT AMONG THE RUINS, held at Christmas time, Jemez Historic Site. Over 15,000 farolitos are lit for this special event. Check for exact date.