Sports
The wonderfully clear sea and spectacular mountains of Zákynthos and Kefaloniá invite visitors to do more than just sit in a deck chair looking out at the view. Options for active holidays are numerous, from swimming, diving and sailing to walking, cycling and horse riding.
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A thrilling boat ride along Melissáni cave lake
Water Sports
Swimming. The water quality around the islands is excellent. The water is extremely clear and clean and, in general, safe; though be careful at some of the west-facing beaches, particularly Mýrtos on Kefaloniá, as there can be some very nasty undercurrents. For little children, the southern and eastern beaches of Zákynthos (for example Kalamáki, Pórto Koúkla and Tsiliví) are best, as they have gently sloping sand and calm waters. Otherwise, most hotels and many apartments have swimming pools, though in summer it would be a shame not to take advantage of the warm waters surrounding the islands. At some points (notably the pebbly beaches around the north and eastern coasts of Kefaloniá) the view from the water over to Itháki or Lefkáda is stunning.
Snorkelling and diving. The coasts around Zákynthos and Kefaloniá are a divers’ paradise – the rocky shoreline is home to wide variety of creatures, and the calm, clear water gives visibility up to 50m (165ft). All scuba-diving schools have qualified instructors who will choose dive locations according to your experience. Extended boat trips are available for advanced divers. For the more advanced trips, or to hire equipment and go by yourself, you will need to show a diving certificate. Most major resorts have reputable diving schools. Well-reputed dive centres approved by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI; www.padi.com) include Diving Center Turtle Beach at Límni Kerioú (tel: 26950 49424; www.diving-center-turtle-beach.com), on Zákynthos, and Aquatic World in Agía Efimía (tel: 26740 62006; www.aquatic.gr), on Kefaloniá. If you don’t want to indulge in full-scale scuba diving, snorkelling with simply a mask, snorkel and flippers can be equally rewarding.
Boat hire
Hiring a small (25 horse-power) motorboat is the best way to explore secluded and otherwise inaccessible bays. They are available from travel agents in many places (particularly on Kefaloniá) and cost 350–80 per day plus petrol. They are great for swimming from – simply anchor, then dive or jump off the side; all boats have a fold-down ladder to help you get back on board.
Water sports. Zákynthos is the best island to visit for organised water sports, with major centres located at Tsiliví, Alykés and Ágios Nikólaos on the Vasilikós Peninsula. Boards and sails for windsurfing are available for hire at certain beaches and instruction is offered at many places. Parasailing, which is now very popular, is available at a number of beaches, mostly on Zákynthos, as is jet-skiing.
Walking
The islands not only have wonderful coasts but also beautiful interiors, much of them mountainous. There is some superb walking here and not all of it strenuous. The goal of more serious hikers will be the summit of Mount Énos (the highest peak in the Ionians), best tackled from the saddle between it and Mount Roúdi. For gentler self-guided walks log on to the Friends of the Ionian site www.foi.org.uk to download very informative walks leaflets (to access this information you will have to join the organisation and make a small donation). There are also companies that conduct walking tours of the islands, for interesting trips to Kefaloniá contact Sea Trek Adventures (tel: 01386 848814; www.sea-trek.co.uk). Serious botanists will find the hills of the islands a delight, and there are tailor-made botanical walking holidays available.
Horse Riding and Cycling
These are both excellent ways of seeing the islands. On Kefaloniá the Bavarian Horse Riding Stables, in Koulouráta about 6km (4 miles) south of Sámi, offers trips from one to seven days on horseback into the mountains and along the coast (tel: 6977 533203; www.kephalonia.com). The mountainous nature of the terrain makes cycling hard work but extremely rewarding. Many of the minor roads are very quiet but take great care on the precipitous main coast roads.
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
The waters around Zákynthos and Kefaloniá attract yachting enthusiasts
Yachting
The relatively calm and safe waters around Zákynthos and Kefaloniá, coupled with the wonderful marine environment, have made this area very popular with yacht owners and companies running bareboat charter and flotilla holidays. On Kefaloniá the most popular harbour is Fiskárdo in the north of the island. However, this can get very busy, especially with novice crews being instructed through loudhailers by their group leader on the quayside. If you are after a little more peace and quiet then you would be better advised to head down the coast to Agía Efimía or along the spectacular west coast to the pretty horseshoe harbour of Ássos. Companies that charter boats and run flotillas include Sunsail (www.sunsail.com) and Nautilus (www.flotillasailing.co.uk). For something a little different, check out www.ionian-seafaris.com.
Excursions by Kaïki
Popular boat trips on Zákynthos are to the Blue Caves at Cape Skinári (take the kaïki from the lighthouse at the cape, ignoring the touts at Ágios Nikólaos) and to Navágio Beach. There are also turtle-spotting trips around Laganás Bay; Earth, Sea and Sky (www.earthseasky.org) run the most environmentally sensitive trips.
Environmental Volunteers
One of the most satisfying ways of seeing the islands is to volunteer on an environmental protection programme run by one of the local eco-groups. On Zákynthos much of the work is dedicated to safeguarding the nesting loggerhead turtles on Laganás Bay and to protecting the environment of the National Marine Park.
Several organisations are involved in this; the park authority itself is setting up a voluntary scheme (see their website www.nmp-zak.org for details), but the longest-standing organisations on Zákynthos are the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece (www.archelon.gr) and Earth, Sea and Sky (www.earthseasky.org). Both run turtle protection programmes, while Earth, Sea and Sky organise other activities such as litter collection and fire prevention.
On Kefaloniá, visitors under 25 years old can apply to take part in FNEC’s (Fiskárdo’s Nautical and Environmental Club; www.fnec.gr) environmental protection programmes. As well as carrying out marine research work, they also run a network of volunteers to protect the feral ponies of Mount Énos.
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Take a boat trip to Navágio Beach
Shopping
Prices are rising in Greece, and as a result you shouldn’t expect great bargains on either Zákynthos or Kefaloniá. In souvenir and gift shops you might find that some good-natured bargaining is tolerated if you are buying more than one item or spending a reasonable amount, but don’t push your luck. Local profit margins have to cover not only the tourist months but also the off season, when most shops are closed.
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Shopping in Argostóli’s Lithóstroto
If you are not a resident of the EU, you might be able to claim back the 23 percent VAT (sales tax) included in the price of most goods, if you spend over a certain amount. Ask for details at shops with ‘Tax-Free for Tourists’ stickers.
What to Buy
Truth be told, Zákynthos and Kefaloniá are not a shoppers’ paradise and the best things to buy as gifts or mementos of your trip are perishables, such as olive oil, thyme honey and local wines. Among the tourist merchandise peddled in the resorts, from inflatable turtles and novelty key rings to mass-produced figurines, you’ll have to look hard to find anything worth bringing home. An exception to this is jewellery, in gold and silver, which can be of very good quality and made in attractive, unusual designs. Zákynthos Town is a good place to look: try either Savvas (tel: 26950 23688) or Platinum (tel: 26950 25044), both of which are on Platía Agíou Márkou. In Argostóli most of the jewellers are along Lithóstroto. Note that the more upmarket the resort (for example, Fiskárdo), the more inflated the price of the jewellery is likely to be.
Another item worth looking out for is a decent reproduction icon. These can be skilfully executed and are widely available, but the best ones tend to be on sale at museums and monasteries.
Leather items, especially bags and sandals, can be good buys but you might want to shop around for the best quality and selection.
Ceramics are among the few artisanal items worth bringing home and the islands have some excellent craft potters, particularly in the attractive smaller villages. You may also consider buying hand-embroidered textiles; the women’s cooperative in Volímes, Zákynthos, has an excellent reputation.
Nightlife
There are considerable differences in the nightlife on the two islands. For the most part, nightlife on Zákynthos falls into two broad types: that which is more traditionally Greek, ranging from the authentic (kandádes evenings in tavernas; to the heavily tourist-orientated (‘Greek nights’), and that revolving around the clubs in the resorts.
Kevin Cummins/Apa Publications
Dining out in Fiskárdo
If the latter is your thing, then head for Laganás on Zákynthos, which has many nightclubs, including Rescue Club, Greece’s largest club outside Athens. Other places to check out include Zeros and the Cameo Club, which is on the small island of Ágios Sóstis, accessible across a walkway from the beach. Elsewhere on Zákynthos, the clubs outside Argási are pretty lively, while those in Tsiliví and Alykés are a little more staid.
A more cultural excursion on Zákynthos would be a nighttime trip to catch a performance at the Théatro Avoúri in the Skaliá Cultural Centre.
Kefaloniá’s nightlife is generally more low key and, in Argostóli, revolves around the cafés and bars on Platía Valiánou and Lithóstroto, while Pub Old House, two blocks north of the square, is a legendary laid-back rock bar and the only two proper clubs are Bass and Sin City. Elsewhere on the island, apart from in the more lively resorts of Lássi and Skála, nightlife is focused on local bars or tavernas.
Greek Nights
Whichever resort you are staying in on Zákynthos, you will almost certainly come across a ‘Greek Night’, which generally comprises a fairly traditional meal, music (usually live) and dancing. It is, of course, the last that everyone comes to see. Traditional Greek dances are taught at an early age, and the dancers – be they specially hired performers, restaurant staff or simply locals who want to do their bit – can almost always be relied on for an energetic performance.
Whereas some Greek island dances are a little staid, Zakynthian males revel in athletic, fast dances with high-kicking, Cossack-like steps and not a little bravado. Dancing in a ring of fire is quite typical. Another dance involves picking up a glass of wine with the mouth (no hands allowed) from a press-up position. The wine is downed with a jerk of the neck. Another crowd pleaser is the solo zimbékikos. The spectators, clapping in time to the music, cheer on the dance. By the end of the night, it is a fair bet that the dancers will have cajoled everyone up on to the floor to join in a version of the syrtáki, Greece’s best-known group dance; the steps are simplified for visitors.
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A musician plays a handmade bouzoúki
These dances are usually all accompanied by the famous eight-stringed lute, the bouzoúki, which for many foreigners has become synonymous with all Greek music. In fact, the instrument (which is of Middle Eastern origin) is a comparatively recent import to the island, though made an intrinsic part of Greek folklore through the haunting melodies of Manos Hadjidakis and Mikis Theodorakis (the latter Greece’s most famous modern composer, forever linked to the music he composed for the 1964 movie Zorba the Greek, starring Anthony Quinn in the eponymous role).
Children
It is easy to travel with a family in Greece, and Zákynthos in particular is a popular destination for those with children. The Greeks are very tolerant of children – it is common to see local youngsters late at night in tavernas, eating and running around, and visitors’ children will be accepted doing the same. In addition, many of the larger and more expensive hotels and resorts have facilities for children, including play areas and dedicated, shallow swimming pools.
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Beach-based activities are a hit with the kids
Many of the activities already mentioned are suitable for children and the active, outdoor life should appeal greatly to those with an adventurous spirit, with the beach being the obvious focus of activities. Do remember, however, that the Mediterranean sun is very strong and that children can burn easily and quickly. Make sure they wear a T-shirt and use a high-factor sunscreen.
On Zákynthos there are two ‘toy trains’ that might appeal to children. One runs frequently to and from Zákynthos Town to Argási, and another goes from Alykés in a circle through the nearby countryside, passing through Katastári and Pigadákia. Trekking on horseback is also a possibility, though this is not one for very young children.
Activities centred around wildlife can also be popular. Trips to see the turtles and visits to the two natural history museums are possible excursions that will go down well with the kids.