Feast

MANTI

TURKEY

The main difference between manti and shish barak is in the shape of the dumplings—tiny and square for manti and just small and round for shish barak—and the yogurt sauce, which is only warmed up and seasoned for manti but cooked for shish barak. These two differences result in very distinct dishes, even if the concept is the same. I am not sure how Turkish cooks manage to make dumplings that are smaller than the nail on your little finger, which is the criterion for those learning to make them, especially for young Turkish brides. I for one am not eligible to marry a Turk as my manti are bigger than my little fingernail. Fortunately, the size does not affect the taste. Some people bake their manti before ladling the yogurt onto it. I like the silky texture of boiled manti.

SERVES 6

FOR THE DOUGH

2 cups (240 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 organic egg

FOR THE FILLING

9 ounces (250 g) lean ground lamb

1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), grated on the fine side of a grater

A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley, most of the stems discarded, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

Sea salt

TO FINISH

4 cups (35 ounces/1 kg) Greek yogurt

4 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste

Sea salt

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon pul biber or Aleppo pepper

1. To make the dough: Mix the flour and salt in a bowl and make a well in the center. Add the egg and ⅓ cup (80 ml) water and gradually bring in the flour. Knead until you have a rough dough.

2. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 3 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, invert the bowl over the dough, and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead the dough for 3 more minutes. Roll into a ball and cover with a damp towel. Let rest while you prepare the filling.

3. To make the filling: Combine the ground lamb, onion, parsley, pepper, and salt to taste (see Note) in a bowl. Mix with your hands, kneading the mixture, both to mix it well and make it smoother.

4. Form the manti: Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and roll each into a ball. Place one ball on a lightly floured work surface and cover the others. Roll out the dough as thinly as you can. Cut it into strips 1½ inches (3.5 cm) wide, then cut the strips crosswise into 1½-inch (3.5 cm) squares. Put a little meat stuffing in the middle of each square and either fold into triangles (which was the shape the Ottomans made) or shape them how they are made these days by lifting 2 opposite corners of the square and pinching them together, then lifting the other two corners so you have a kind of pouch with 4 angles. Pick up the dough scraps, knead together, then shape into a ball. Let it rest while you roll out another ball of dough to make more dumplings. Continue in the same way until you have used all the dough, including the scraps that you rerolled, and the filling. You should end up with 120 tiny dumplings—if you find it tedious to make these so small, make the squares bigger to make about 40 larger dumplings.

5. Bring a large pot with water to a boil over medium heat. Add salt to taste. Meanwhile, heat the yogurt in a double boiler until very warm. Add the garlic and salt to taste and keep warm.

6. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. When the butter starts sizzling, add the pul biber. Keep over very low heat.

7. Drop the manti into the boiling water and cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a serving dish.

8. To serve, pour the warm yogurt all over and drizzle the pul biber butter over the yogurt. Serve immediately.