INDIA
Also known as katchi biryani, this is quite different from the Dumpukht Biryani, which is also from Hyderabad. Here, the meat is cooked and the rice parboiled before being combined, whereas in the dumpukht version, the meat and rice cook together (which works surprisingly well). This biryani is very close to the Persian polows, although in Iran, the meat is usually layered in between the rice and not buried underneath it. This and most other biryanis make perfect one-pot meals that are fairly simple to prepare. They also have the advantage of keeping well if left over very low heat until you are ready to serve them.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Good pinch of saffron threads
½ cup (125 ml) whole milk
FOR THE MARINATED MEAT
½ cup (125 ml) vegetable oil
4 medium onions (1 pound 5 ounces/600 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
6 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
1 tablespoon finely minced green papaya
2¼ pounds (1 kg) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
10 mild green chilies, seeded and pureed
¼ bunch cilantro (2 ounces/50 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
A few sprigs fresh mint, leaves stripped off the stems, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Indian Biryani Masala
2 cups (500 g) yogurt
Juice of 3 limes
Sea salt
FOR THE BIRYANI
Sea salt
3¼ cups (650 g) long-grain rice, soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water, drained
2 tablespoons (30 g) ghee or unsalted butter, melted
1. Put the saffron to steep in the milk.
2. To marinate the meat: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and fry, stirring regularly, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then puree in a food processor.
3. Mix the ginger, garlic, and papaya in a large bowl. Add the meat and mix well. Let sit for about 15 minutes—the green papaya acts as a tenderizer. Add the onion puree, green chili puree, cilantro, mint, masala, yogurt, lime juice, and salt to taste. Let the meat marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably longer in the refrigerator.
4. To make the biryani: Bring 4 quarts (4 liters) water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add 4 tablespoons sea salt and the drained rice. Bring back to a boil and let the rice boil for 3 minutes, or until the hard core is just softened. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water. Let the rice drain off any excess water while you start cooking the meat.
5. Put the meat and the marinade in a large pot and place over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the yogurt starts bubbling. Add 1 cup (250 ml) water and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low and spread the parboiled rice over the meat. Cover the pan with the lid wrapped in a clean kitchen towel to make sure it fits snugly over the biryani. Let steam for 30 minutes, then sprinkle the saffron milk and melted ghee over the rice. Cover the pan again, and let steam for another 15 minutes, until the meat is done and the rice is very fluffy.
6. Transfer the meat and rice to a serving platter without mixing them so you have different colors. Serve immediately.
