INDIA
Awadhi cuisine was developed in Lucknow during the time of the Nawabs, who ruled the state of Awadh from 1722 to 1856, when the last Nawab was imprisoned by the Company of India before being sent into exile in Calcutta (or Kolkota as it is now known). The Nawabs were fine gourmets, and their cooks, known as bawarchis, prepared incredibly refined dishes. They also invented the dum method of cooking, where dishes were completely sealed in their terra-cotta cooking pots and placed over a low fire to cook slowly. This biryani is one of the glories of this cuisine and the rice is made more interesting by being cooked in spiced water before being layered with the cooked meat.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE MARINATED MEAT
2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder
1 teaspoon Garam Masala 1
Juice of 1 lime
1 cup (250 g) yogurt
1 pound 2 ounces (500 g) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
Sea salt
FOR THE RICE
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice
1 cinnamon stick
3 black cardamom pods
3 green cardamom pods
6 black peppercorns
6 whole cloves
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
4 cups (1 liter) boiling water
5 tablespoons (75 g) ghee or unsalted butter
Good pinch of saffron threads
TO FINISH
3 tablespoons (45 g) ghee or unsalted butter
3 medium onions (1 pound/450 g total), finely chopped
2 green cardamom pods, smashed
Good pinch of saffron threads
½ cup (125 ml) milk, heated
1 teaspoon kewra (pandanus flower extract)
1. To marinate the meat: Put the onions, ginger, garlic, spices, lime juice, and yogurt in a large bowl and mix well. Add the lamb and salt to taste and mix again. Let marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably longer in the refrigerator.
2. To make the rice: Rinse the rice under cold water, then soak it for 1 hour in lightly salted water. Meanwhile, put the whole spices in a large heatproof measuring cup and add the boiling water. Let sit until it is time to use with the rice.
3. Melt the ghee or butter in a pot over medium heat. Drain the rice, add to the pot, and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add the saffron and strain the spice water over the rice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and let simmer for 10 minutes. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and replace over the pot. Let steam while you cook the meat.
4. To finish: Combine the ghee, onions, and cardamom pods in a pot and place over medium heat. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the marinated lamb and sauté the meat for a few minutes. Then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let the lamb cook slowly for 30 minutes, or until tender.
5. Meanwhile, put the saffron in a small bowl. Add the hot milk and the kewra and let infuse until you are ready to use it.
6. When the meat is done, take off the heat unless the sauce is too runny, in which case increase the heat to high and boil hard until the excess liquid has evaporated. You want the sauce to be very thick and rather dry.
7. Take a clean pot large enough to hold both the rice and meat. Spread one-quarter of the rice over the bottom. Lay one-third of the meat over the rice. Repeat this layering two more times, finishing with rice. Sprinkle the saffron-infused milk over the rice. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel and place over the pot. Place over very low heat and let steam for about 30 minutes. Serve immediately.