INDIA
The Muslims from the northern part of Kerala are known as Moplahs and they are mostly descendants of Arab traders who intermarried with local women. Their cuisine is quite distinctive apart from sharing the same dependence on rice, which in this region is short-grain rather than the long-grain used in the rest of India. One of the best times to sample Moplah cuisine is during festive occasions, and in particular wedding ceremonies, which are particularly festive there. The ceremony lasts several days, and each day is devoted to a different ritual, such as henna night or the night of the wedding proper. Each ritual has its own foods, and biryani is always served on the night of the wedding. You can make the biryani below by frying the chicken first or you can make it by sautéing it with the sauce, which is what I prefer to do. This biryani is somewhat mellow compared to others unless you add one or two hot chilies. Also the rice here is fully cooked before being added to the chicken whereas in most other biryanis it is parboiled, drained, then put to steam with the meat and/or sauce.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Good pinch of saffron threads
2 tablespoons rose water
½ cup (125 g) ghee or vegetable oil
4 small onions (about 14 ounces/400 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
2 ounces (60 g) mild green chilies, finely minced
2 inches (5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely minced
6 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
½ teaspoon poppy seeds, finely crushed
2 poussins or Cornish hens, quartered, or 1 whole chicken (3 pounds 5 ounces/1.5 kg), cut into 8 pieces
⅔ cup (180 g) yogurt
Sea salt
Juice of 1 lime, or to taste
A few sprigs cilantro, most of the bottom stems discarded, coarsely chopped
A few sprigs mint, leaves stripped off stems, coarsely chopped
⅓ cup (50 g) cashews, coarsely chopped
⅓ cup (50 g) golden raisins, soaked for a couple hours in water
2½ cups (500 g) long-grain rice
1 teaspoon Garam Masala 1
1. Put the saffron to soak in the rose water.
2. Heat half the ghee in a large pot over medium heat. Add half the onions and sauté until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the chilies, ginger, garlic, and poppy seeds and sauté for a couple more minutes, or until fragrant. Add the poussins and sauté for a few minutes, or until browned. Add the yogurt and ¼ cup (60 ml) water. Season with salt to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Add the lime juice and herbs and another ¼ cup (60 ml) water and let simmer for another 15 minutes, or until the poussins are done and the sauce has thickened.
3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining ghee in a pot over medium heat. Add the remaining onions and sauté until lightly caramelized, about 7 minutes. Add the cashews and sauté for 3 minutes or so, or until lightly golden. Drain the golden raisins and add to the pot. Sauté for a couple of minutes more. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate.
4. Rinse the rice under cold water. Drain well and add to the pot. Sauté in the oil for a couple of minutes, then add 2½ cups (625 ml) water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the rice is done and has absorbed all the water. Take off the heat.
5. Return the pot with the poussins to low heat. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon of the garam masala over the poussins, then fluff the rice with a fork and spread one-third over the poussins. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons saffron rose water over the rice. Spread half the onion-cashew-raisin mixture on top. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon garam masala all over and cover with another one-third of the rice. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons saffron rose water, the remaining onion-cashew-raisin mixture and another ¼ teaspoon garam masala and cover with the remaining rice. Sprinkle the remaining saffron rose water and garam masala over the rice. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and cover the pot with it.
6. At this point, you can finish the rice in a hot oven for 15 minutes (traditionally they place hot coals on the lid to have heat from both below and above) or you can leave it over very low heat for about 20 minutes.
7. Transfer to a serving platter, arranging the poussins on top of the rice. Serve hot.