Sweet-Savory Rice

MUHAMMAR

QATAR | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT

There are two ways of making this sweet-savory rice, another classic from the Arabian Gulf, normally served with fried or grilled fish. One way is to caramelize sugar before adding water and parboiling the rice in the sweet water, then finishing the rice by steaming it with a little butter or ghee and saffron-rose water. The other method is to sweeten the rice with date syrup, which is what was done traditionally. I like the flavor of date syrup and the recipe below, which was given to me by Mariam al-Abdallah, who was Qatar’s first celebrity chef, calls for date syrup. Mariam cooks the rice by the absorption method—i.e., in just enough water so the rice absorbs it fully—but you can also parboil the rice (see Note). Be sure to get the right date syrup. Some are very thick and dark and they do not produce a great result. Instead try to find a light golden date syrup. Serve with the Arabian Spiced Fried Fish or any other fish dish that strikes your fancy and will go with the sweet-savory flavors of muhammar.

SERVES 4 TO 6

1 cup (250 ml) date syrup

2 cups (500 ml) boiling water

4 cardamom pods, smashed

1 cinnamon stick

2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice, soaked for 30 minutes in 2 quarts (2 liters) water and 1 tablespoon salt

Sea salt

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon ground cardamom

Good pinch of saffron threads, steeped in ¼ cup (60 ml) rose water

1. Put the date syrup in a large pot in which you will be cooking the rice. Add the boiling water, cardamom pods, and cinnamon stick and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then drain the rice and add to the pot. Stir the rice, bring back to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Let simmer for 10 minutes, or until the liquid is fully absorbed—check after 10 minutes and taste for salt; add more if necessary.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a small pan over medium heat.

3. When the rice is done, sprinkle the hot oil over the rice and sprinkle the ground cardamom and saffron-rose water all over. Use a fork to mix the rice and fluff it up. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and let the rice steam over very low heat for 10 more minutes. Fluff it up again with a fork and serve hot.

NOTE: You can also parboil the rice in a lot of water, then drain it and return to the pan to let it steam over very low heat. To do so, increase the amount of date syrup by ½ cup (125 ml) and add 5¼ cups (1.25 liters) water to parboil the rice for 3 minutes. Drain the rice and instead of the oil in the recipe, add a little ghee or butter to a clean pan and add the drained rice. Place over very low heat and steam the rice for 20 minutes. Sprinkle a little saffron-rose water over the rice at the end.