RESHTA PULAU I
AFGHANISTAN
Cooking rice with noodles goes back many centuries and you find the word reshta, which means thread in Iranian, in medieval cookbooks. There are two versions to this rice. One is the simple one below, whereas the more complicated meat version is in the following recipe. Both are intriguing because of the sweet/savory element. The plainer one is wonderful served with grilled or roasted meats or stews while the meat version makes for a very sophisticated one-pot meal. I have adapted both from recipes in Helen Saberi’s Afghan Food & Cookery. Many of the Persian khoresht (Iranian Yellow Split Pea Stew, Iranian Mixed-Herb Lamb Stew, Iranian Lamb and Eggplant Stew, and Quince Stew) are perfect accompaniments to this rice, as are some curries.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ cups (500 g) long-grain rice, rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water
Sea salt
½ cup (125 ml) vegetable oil
9 ounces (250 g) vermicelli, broken into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
1 cup (200 g) raw cane sugar
Good pinch of saffron threads
¼ cup (40 g) slivered pistachios
¼ cup (40 g) slivered almonds
1. Drain the rice. Put 6 cups (1.5 liters) water in a large pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the drained rice and boil for 3 minutes. Drain the rice. Reserving one-quarter of the rice, transfer the remainder of it to a Dutch oven (or other ovenproof pot). Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel. Place over the pot and set aside.
2. Heat ¼ cup (60 ml) of the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the vermicelli and sauté for a few minutes stirring all the time, or until lightly browned. Take off the heat.
3. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
4. Put the sugar in a medium saucepan and add a scant 1 cup (225 ml) water. Place over medium-high heat and let bubble until you have a thin syrup. Add the fried vermicelli, saffron, pistachios, and almonds. Set a sieve or colander in the sink. Put a large spoonful of the reserved rice into the sieve and add a large spoonful of the vermicelli and nut mixture. Continue building the layers until you finish both the reserved rice and the nut/syrup mixture. Most of the syrup will drain away so don’t worry about the rice becoming too sweet.
5. Mix the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) oil with ⅓ cup (80 ml) water and a little salt and pour over the rice in the Dutch oven. Stir once, then place the vermicelli rice on one side of the plain rice without stirring it in. Unwrap the lid and place it back over the pot. Transfer the Dutch oven to the hot oven and let the rice steam for 45 minutes.
6. To serve, remove the vermicelli rice to a plate. Transfer the plain rice to a large serving platter. Scatter the vermicelli rice over the top and serve hot.