TAHCHIN-O BARREH
IRAN
Tahchin is one of the ultimate party dishes, not only because the presentation is so appealing, but also because the rice stays hot under the crust, making it an ideal dish for a buffet spread. I still remember my first taste of it in Tehran at Nasrine Faghih’s home. I was there researching Iranian food, and Nasrine, an old friend from when I lived in Paris, had arranged for me to cook with one of her friends, Minou, and her cook, Mariam. I had had rice cakes before, both in Kuwait (where they are known as bardalof) and in London, cooked by the late Zaha Hadid, who was also a great friend and had perfected the crust.
In the Iranian version, the parboiled rice is mixed with yogurt and egg, then cooked meat (as here) or chicken before being put in a baking dish and baked. You can make it plain, or with greens. It is perfectly delicious, and the crust is less difficult to achieve than tah-dig because the oven temperature is easier to regulate than that of most stovetop burners. The baking dish you use will also affect the result. A good nonstick solid metal cake pan with medium-high (4-inch/10 cm) straight sides is perfect for tahchin. In Iran they have a special pot they swear by, but I have yet to get one.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Good pinch of saffron threads
8 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), halved and cut into thin wedges
9 ounces (250 g) lean lamb from the leg or shoulder, diced into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
Sea salt
⅔ cup (175 g) yogurt
2 organic eggs
1¾ cups (350 g) long-grain rice, rinsed and soaked for 2 hours in lightly salted water
1. Put the saffron threads to steep in 2 tablespoons water.
2. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil, the onion, and lamb in a sauté pan and place over low heat. Barely cover with water. Season with a little salt and let cook slowly, stirring regularly, for 1 to 1½ hours, until tender. Let cool.
3. Put the yogurt and eggs in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Add the saffron water and salt to taste and mix again. Drain the lamb and onions if there is still any liquid in the pan and add to the saffron-yogurt-egg mixture. Let marinate for 2 hours at least, preferably overnight in the refrigerator.
4. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
5. Put 6 cups (1.5 liters) water in a large pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add 1½ tablespoons salt. Drain the rice and add to the boiling water and let boil for 3 minutes. Drain well. Rinse under cold water. Drain well again and add to the yogurt and lamb, together with the remaining 6 tablespoons oil. Mix well.
6. Transfer the rice mixture to a 9-inch (17.5 cm) round nonstick baking dish with medium-high (4-inch/10 cm) sides. Level the top and cover with foil. Bake for 2 hours, or until the rice is tender and completely crusty on the bottom and sides. Let sit in the pan for 5 minutes, then invert onto a round serving platter and serve hot.