MUTTHANJAN PULAU
PAKISTAN
Here is the Pakistani/Indian version of the Persian Jeweled Rice. Persian cuisine is the mother cuisine of the Muslim world—the Abbasid Caliphs who oversaw the expansion of their empire favored Persian chefs and had them in their court as well as wherever they invaded, expanding the influence of Persian cooks far and wide, both eastward and westward. Of course, recipes changed over the centuries and some are completely different from how they started, sometimes only keeping the name and sometimes losing this too. Mutthanjan has the sweet-savory element of jeweled rice although it is actually sweeter and headier as far as seasonings are concerned. It also has added meat. It is a very festive dish, served at special occasions, such as Eid and weddings, and can be made much sweeter, but I prefer a subtle combination of sweet and savory. Many people do away with the meat to make it as a sweet, but it was traditionally made with meat, so I am sticking to tradition.
SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE MILK/ALMOND MIXTURE
4 cups (1 liter) whole milk
½ cup (75 g) ground almonds
FOR THE SAFFRON MILK/KEWRA INFUSION
Good pinch of saffron threads
2 tablespoons whole milk
2 tablespoons kewra (pandanus flower extract)
FOR THE LAMB AND STOCK
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
8 whole cloves
4 green cardamom pods
1 black cardamom pod
1 cinnamon stick
¼ nutmeg
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
2 shards of blade mace
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled but whole
Sea salt
1 tablespoon ghee or unsalted butter
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), halved and cut into thin wedges
½ inch (1 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ cup (125 g) yogurt, whisked
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
FOR THE RICE
2½ cups (500 g) long-grain rice, soaked for 30 minutes in lightly salted water
1 tablespoon ghee
Sea salt
FOR THE MUTTHANJAN
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅔ cup (100 g) golden raisins, soaked for a couple hours in cold water and drained
⅓ cup (50 g) pistachios, soaked for a couple hours in cold water and drained
½ to 1 cup (50 to 100 g) powdered sugar, to taste
Juice of 2 limes
FOR THE MEATBALLS
9 ounces (250 g) lean ground lamb, from the shoulder or leg
2 tablespoons chana dal (split yellow peas), soaked for 1 hour in cold water and drained
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Sea salt
2 to 3 green chilies, seeded and very thinly sliced
Vegetable oil, for frying
Edible gold leaves
1. To make the milk/almond mixture: Put the milk in a medium nonstick saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-low heat—be careful not to let it boil over—then reduce the heat to very low and let the milk bubble very gently, stirring regularly, until it has reduced by three-quarters and has become quite thick and slightly golden. This will take about 1 hour. Add the ground almonds and mix well.
2. For the saffron milk/kewra infusion: Put the saffron in a small bowl. Add the milk and kewra and let infuse while you prepare the rest of the dish.
3. To prepare the lamb and stock: Put the lamb in a large pot. Add 5¼ cups (1.25 liters) water. Tie 4 cloves, the whole spices, onion, and garlic in cheesecloth and add to the pot along with salt to taste. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming any froth from the surface. Reduce the heat to medium and let bubble gently for 1 hour, or until the meat is tender. Strain the stock (discard the cheesecloth bag). Set the meat aside and keep hot. Measure out 2½ cups (625 ml) stock and place in a large pot.
4. Heat the ghee and remaining 4 cloves in a small pan over medium heat. Sauté until fragrant. Add to the stock. Set the pot of stock aside.
5. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until lightly golden. Add the lamb, ginger, yogurt, garam masala, coriander, and cayenne and cook, stirring regularly, and adding a couple of tablespoons water, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the meat has browned and the sauce is reduced. Set aside.
6. To cook the rice: Drain the rice and add to the reserved stock in the pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the ghee and salt if necessary and reduce the heat to low. Cook the rice for 10 minutes, or until it has absorbed all the stock and is barely tender. Take off the heat. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and replace over the pot.
7. To put the mutthanjan together: Pour the oil into a large pot and spread half the lamb over the bottom. Cover the meat with one-third of the rice. Spread half the milk/almond mixture over the rice. Top with the remaining lamb, half the drained raisins and pistachios. Sprinkle half the sugar and lime juice and cover with another one-third of the rice. Spread the remaining milk/almond mixture over the rice, then the remaining raisins, pistachios, sugar, and lime juice. Cover with the last of the rice. Sprinkle the saffron milk/kewra infusion all over the top. Wrap the lid of the pot with a clean kitchen towel, cover, and place the pot over medium-high heat. Leave for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat to very low and let the rice steam for 20 to 30 minutes, or until it is steaming hot and completely tender.
8. Meanwhile, to make the meatballs: Put the ground meat and chana dal in a medium skillet and add ½ cup (125 ml) water. Place over medium heat and season with the cayenne and salt to taste. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes, until the dal is completely tender and the water has evaporated. Transfer to a food processor and process to a fine paste. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the sliced chilies. Mix well using your hands.
9. Lightly wet your hands and shape the meat into small meatballs. Place a medium skillet over medium heat and pour in enough oil to cover the bottom. Add the meatballs and sauté until browned, about 3 minutes.
10. Transfer the rice and lamb chunks to a serving platter. Press the sautéed meatballs into the rice all around the edges leaving the center plain. Lay a piece of gold leaf over each meatball and dot a few pieces of gold leaf in the middle of the rice. Serve hot.