Feast

KSEKSÛ TFAYA

MOROCCO

This couscous is a lot more festive than the regular seven-vegetables version. It is usually made with chicken, but you can easily make it with beef or lamb (see Note). Tfaya is the name of the sweet-savory onion sauce spread over the meat that is served with the couscous. The dish is usually prepared for weddings, which in Morocco last for three days. One of the days is called henna day, when female family members and friends of both the bride and groom gather to have their hands and feet decorated with henna; and of course, they also feast while together. This dish is served on that occasion.

SERVES 4 TO 6

FOR THE COUSCOUS

2½ cups (500 g) fine or medium couscous (not instant)

Sea salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter, melted

FOR THE CHICKEN AND BROTH

1 whole chicken (3 pounds 5 ounces/1.5 kg)

½ cup (100 g) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in plenty of cold water with ½ teaspoon baking soda

2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped

A few sprigs cilantro and flat-leaf parsley tied together

1 cinnamon stick

Good pinch of saffron threads

4 whole cloves

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt

FOR THE TFAYA

5 large onions (2¼ pounds/1 kg total), halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges

2 tablespoons smen, ghee, or unsalted butter

1 tablespoon raw cane sugar

Good pinch of saffron threads

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

1⅓ cups (200 g) golden raisins, soaked for a couple of hours in cold water and drained

2 tablespoons orange blossom water

FOR THE GARNISH

⅔ cup (100 g) blanched almonds, toasted in a hot oven for 7 to 8 minutes until golden brown

1. To start the couscous: Prepare the couscous as in step 1 of Couscous with Seven Vegetables. Put the couscous in the top half of a couscoussière. (If you don’t have one, line with cheesecloth a metal colander that will fit over the pot you will use to cook the chicken in; the pot should be deep enough that the colander won’t touch the chicken.)

2. To start the chicken and broth: Put the chicken in the bottom half of the couscoussière (or in the large pot). Rinse and drain the chickpeas and add to the chicken together with the onions, herbs, and spices. Add 3 cups (750 ml) water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the oil and cover. Let bubble gently for 30 minutes. Remove the cover, then place the top part of the couscoussière (or the colander) with the couscous in it on top of the pot, cover, and steam for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken over in the broth.

3. Meanwhile, to make the tfaya: Combine the sliced onions, ½ cup (125 ml) water, the smen, sugar, and spices in a large skillet. Place over low heat and cook, stirring regularly, for about 30 minutes. Add the drained golden raisins and cook, stirring very regularly, for about 30 minutes longer, or until the onion has softened and become caramelized and there is no sauce to speak of in the pan. Add the orange blossom water and take off the heat. Keep warm.

4. After the couscous has steamed for 20 minutes, tip the couscous into a large bowl and sprinkle with ⅔ cup (160 ml) water, stirring with a wooden spoon as you sprinkle. Once all the water is incorporated, and there are no lumps, add the 2 tablespoons (30 g) melted butter. Mix well. Cover the bowl and let sit to allow the couscous to fluff up.

5. Add salt to taste to the chicken—by then the chickpeas should have cooked and the salt will no longer harden their skin. Return the couscous to the couscoussière (or colander) and set over the chicken to steam for another 10 to 15 minutes.

6. Tip the couscous onto a large serving platter. Smooth the edges while raising them to make a pyramid, then make a large dip in the center for the chicken—you can press a soup plate in the middle of the couscous to make the dip.

7. Take the chicken out of the broth and cut into four pieces. Arrange these in the dip in the middle of the couscous. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out the chickpeas and spread them over the chicken. Spoon a little broth all over the chicken, then spread the tfaya over the chicken. Garnish with the toasted almonds and serve immediately with more broth on the side.

NOTE: Use the same weight in lamb shanks or 2¼ pounds (1 kg) stewing beef or veal cut into medium chunks. Allow a little more time to cook the meat than it takes for chicken.