CHINA
I got the following recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop, the author of many brilliant books on regional Chinese cuisines, who explained, “The Uyghurs, like the Italians, are pasta specialists, and their geographical location on the ancient bridge between China and the West is strikingly apparent in their pasta cookery. Their hand-pulled noodles connect them with the Muslims who live scattered across northern China. . . .” And with Carolyn Phillips, author of All Under Heaven, I tried shaved noodles. It’s mesmerizing to see them being made, but it’s a specialist’s job, and I am suggesting you use regular noodles.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1 pound (450 g) boneless lamb leg, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Turkish mild red pepper paste
1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
4 baby leeks, sliced crosswise at an angle
5 Chinese garlic chives, cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) sections
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into small squares
1 medium green bell pepper, cut into small squares
1 small zucchini, sliced fairly thinly lengthwise, then cut into small squares
10½ ounces (300 g) green cabbage or spring greens such as chard or spinach, shredded
2 large tomatoes (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1⅔ cups (375 ml) meat or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
FOR THE NOODLES
Sea salt
3½ ounces (100 g) dried noodles per person or 5 ounces (150 g) fresh noodles per person (depending on how many you plan to serve, for a maximum of 6)
1. Heat ¼ cup (60 ml) oil in a wok until smoking. Add the lamb and stir-fry until the pieces separate and the oil is clear again. Add the pepper paste and stir-fry briefly. Add the ginger, garlic, and leeks and stir-fry until fragrant.
2. One at a time, and stir-frying after each addition, add the garlic chives, bell peppers, zucchini, and cabbage. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste.
3. Barely cover the ingredients with stock and bring to a boil. Add the soy sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat and simmer until everything is just cooked. Set aside and allow to cool slightly while you prepare the noodles of your choice.
4. To make the noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook to a minute less than called for in the package instructions for the dried and 1 to 2 minutes for the fresh. Drain the noodles.
5. Divide the noodles equally among individual bowls, spoon an equal amount of sauce over each, and serve hot.