EGYPT | SYRIA
Ful medammes is the Egyptian breakfast par excellence, enjoyed by poor and rich alike, on the street or at home. Often, people take a pot to their local street ful medammes vendor to have him fill it with ful to eat in the comfort of their home. I give here both the classic Egyptian version and a Syrian one I used to have in Aleppo at Hajj Abdo’s simple corner café in the heart of the city’s Christian quarter. His remains the best I have ever had.
SERVES 4
FOR THE FUL
2 cups (400 g) dried large fava beans, soaked overnight in plenty of water with 1 teaspoon baking soda
Sea salt
FOR EGYPTIAN-STYLE FUL
3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
Sea salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium firm-ripe tomato (3½ ounces/100 g), cut into small cubes
2 to 3 scallions, thinly sliced, to taste
A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
Lemon wedges
Pita bread, for serving
FOR SYRIAN-STYLE FUL
½ cup (125 ml) tahini
1 clove garlic, minced to a fine paste
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
2 tablespoons Aleppo or Turkish red pepper paste, diluted with 3 tablespoons water (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Pita bread, for serving
Sliced tomatoes and scallions, for serving
1. To start the ful: Drain and rinse the favas under cold water. Put in a large pot and add 4 cups (1 liter) water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2½ to 3 hours, until the beans are very tender and the cooking water has thickened. Check after 1 hour or so to make sure the beans are not drying out. If they are, add a little boiling water. Don’t add too much as you will not be draining the cooked beans at the end. Once done, add salt to taste—you do not want to do this until the very end, otherwise the skins will harden.
2. To serve the ful Egyptian style: Mash the beans coarsely inside the pot, then spoon them into a large serving bowl. Mix in the garlic and more salt if needed. Wipe the sides of the bowl clean, then drizzle all over with olive oil. Pile the diced tomato in the center, then the scallions, then the parsley. Sprinkle the cumin all around the edges over the beans and serve with the lemon wedges and pita bread.
3. To serve the ful Syrian style (like Hajj Abdo): Mix the tahini, garlic, and lemon juice, then gradually add ¾ cup (180 ml) water until the tarator is like heavy cream. You will notice the tahini thickening at first but don’t worry, it will loosen as you go. Pour the tarator into a large serving bowl. Add the hot beans. If desired, spoon a little diluted pepper paste all over the top. Drizzle with olive oil. Serve immediately with pita bread, tomatoes, and scallions.